PollyMobiles Rebuild

[h701micra]

how can I be of assistance

You'll have to take a look on your next visit. I'll allow you to have a good gander at it

In the meantime we need a track day to plan/prepare for

 

[pollyp]

You'll have to take a look on your next visit. I'll allow you to have a good gander at it

In the meantime we need a track day to plan/prepare for

and I needed to check out the primera M/C too. will have to arrange a weekend

yeah once it's warm I need some trackday shakedown cos will need everything sorted out by the time I'm going to nurburgring at end of july, but there's a dilema this year cos I promised my m8 that my car will be intact n running to drive him & lads to his wedding in May and avoid any risky track stuff just incase.

on one hand, yes my m8s wedding is very important and suppose I could delay the risky track stuff till after 15th May then do whatever I like,

but on other hand the cars at risk each day anyway since I drive it to work daily surrounded by numpty drivers everywhere, but I think he meant not get involved in any major smashes or mechanical failures or major engine work near that date that could risk ruining the wedding plans.
also the more often & earlier I goto track to stress n iron out all the issues with the turbo setup n tune everything, the better prepared n more reliable the car is for the emense trip n stress of the german Ring adventure.

I think a compromise is to go on track once summer begins to warm up, avoid trackday or major car work bout 1mth before the wedding, then have as much trackdays after the wedding to prepare till the trip to germany at end of july?

 

[h701micra]

However you want to do it I was thinking April. Which could be early April to give plenty if time until the wedding do?
Also sticking with Blyton which is easier on the car but still a good test

 

[pollyp]

However you want to do it I was thinking April. Which could be early April to give plenty if time until the wedding do?
Also sticking with Blyton which is easier on the car but still a good test

aye I like that fast sweeping right-left-right last few corners at WOT

 

[h701micra]

aye I like that fast sweeping right-left-right last few corners at WOT

I did notice the excitement was real there
last corner before pitting in was my challenge. Couldn't find the right line

 

[pollyp]

I did notice the excitement was real there
last corner before pitting in was my challenge. Couldn't find the right line

yup, to be able to take a corner flat out n trust the tyres will grip without worrying bout hitting any armco barrier (unlike the terrifying Druids corner at oulton where I almost went off one time) puts the mind at ease and lets you have safe fun.

agree, that last 90deg corner your still finishing the right sweep turn but have to either brake early and unsettle the car or brake harder later after straightening up but risk exiting wide or plowing straight ahead if the brakes couldn't slow down enough. a tricky technical section, good to assess techniques n lines for attacking that bend.

the hardest corner imo is the fast hard entry braking into the tightening 1st left hand bend into the chicane. such a wide sweeping cambered slippery entry, my car either oversteers or mostly understeers through that bend under hard braking.

 

[pollyp]

recently the filament feeder on the printer either kept slipping or filament was crushed and buckled due to too much pressure, so I redesigned it into a stronger single piece unit

the 3mm bowtube was replaced with a thinner flexible 2mm tube to reduce slack and stop the stiffness of the tubing from tilting the printer head and the tube would be screwed through the casing much closer to the drive motor gear so the squeezed filament doesn't buckle

printed the case and it fits nicely, as a bonus the exposed hole also made it easier to brush any debris off the driven gear

but then the hot end stopped heating up
I read loadsa makibox users complaining bout the very short lifespan of the heater and now mines broken.
was trying to unscrew it apart and yup it's snapped. new one please

the cause was from all that 12v being funnelled from a thick ribbon cable down into a tiny thin heater circuit and after the ribbon has flexed several times, the thin track eventually fractures. rubbish design

looking for a replacement, thought bout looking for a spare makibox A6 head as an easy quick fix but tbh doubt I'd find any and it'll only break again.

loadsa ppl talking bout replacing em with the E3D V6 hot end. bit pricey at £43 but figured I may as well invest in a much better printer head in the long run.
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal

also purchased some linear ball bearings to ensure there's no drag so the head moves alot more precisely.
the linear bearings would fit on the sliding rails like this

the shaft of the E3D head slots in the middle

to secure the head, the m3 screw would be slotted through the groove of the shaft like this

now I designed a split casing to house everything together solidly in a small package

created & fitted the new head & mount

did a few test prints and oh boy it's so much more precise and consistant with the new hot end & linear bearings

to further test it's accuracy & fitted the smallest 0.25mm tip I brought (the default tip is normally 0.4mm) and printed some spur gears

and the housing base

but the pegs snapped off cos there wasn't enough in-fill to strengthen it

printed another with a solid infill and is much stronger

so here's a vid of the whole process and the end result working luvely



in other car related news, time to refit the engine cover gasket cos since I've fitted the new gasket with sealant only in afew spots that haynes wrote, it's been leaking oil and caked all over the cover and the dipstick levels been dropping at the usual 10% per 30miles each day to from work.

cover removed

this black thick oily tar has caked all over the cover, had to rub it with carb cleaner

reinstalled with sealant applied all round the gasket. we'll see if it resolves the oil drop issue. I really need this oil problem fixed before the big trip to nurburg

 

[pollyp]

if it continues to burn bout 1L oil per 250miles, I estimated that for a trip to/from nurburg (1300m) plus bout 10laps of the ring at WOT (150m) plus other trips to hotel etc, she'd lose over 6L. I'll have to carry 2 cartons of 5w50.

 

[MicraPRO]

It she burning it paul?

 

[pollyp]

It she burning it paul?

hard to tell.
the piston tops semi damp and in the morning I can't tell if the white exhaust is water vapour or partial oil but once warm she doesn't smoke at all whether at prolonged full boost or vacuum.

the oil cap, rocker cover and especially the old (motorcycle oil filter) catch can showed heavy oil stains so once I resolved all these, I'll see if it still burns oil.

 

[MicraPRO]

hard to tell.
the piston tops semi damp and in the morning I can't tell if the white exhaust is water vapour or partial oil but once warm she doesn't smoke at all whether at prolonged full boost or vacuum.

the oil cap, rocker cover and especially the old (motorcycle oil filter) catch can showed heavy oil stains so once I resolved all these, I'll see if it still burns oil.

So this coild still be due to having forged pistons? I remember you saying you were having issues with the bore?
I found the cause of my oil loss to be a buggered crank seal ill get the gear box side changed also when I change the clutch over.

 

[pollyp]

So this coild still be due to having forged pistons? I remember you saying you were having issues with the bore?
I found the cause of my oil loss to be a buggered crank seal ill get the gear box side changed also when I change the clutch over.

could be.
nothing I can do bout the wet piston other than restart over.
the minor issues of afew oil stains can be fixed n eliminated, then see if that improves the oil loss.
every single seal on the engine is new so shouldn't be a prob.

 

[pollyp]

tried printing a small housing with the new tip and it seems to print fine

now I measured the pipes n redesigned the catch can to suit it

container would be screwed on underneath

estimated the airflow. trying to contact the cooler walls of the container for as long as possible so the vapour has time to cool/condense before it gathers in the lower mid-point and exits up through the top pipe. (the longer and more conductive the container the better imo)

began printing the massive housing taking up all the bed space. the 0.25mm nozzle was estimated 15hrs! fuk that.
the 0.4mm nozzle estimated 4-5hrs, bareable

but disaster after 2hrs the bed was cooled too much and it lost adhesion n warped up from the heat difference

so had to abort

looking at the serious warping

the screw threads wer roughly meh ok, would need alot of work to finish

but it was also a weak spot so must avoid thin thread walls

removed the threads. now rather than print a big container on this limited short 70mm printer height and the plastic print could split apart and the plastic ain't very conductive/cooling for condensing vapours, I looked around for a suitable metalic container a behold the versatile soup/beans can, perfect

modelled to suit the tin can. the housing will be clamped around the rim of the can

now beginning the long 5hr print

 

[pollyp]

recently had a screw in the front right tyre. applied sealant and screw for the moment.
and then this morning for work looked at the back n the rear lefts total flat, ffs

foot pumped from 0-3bars, went to work. after work, its flat again, yeah got a big puncture..again pumped 0-3bars.

swapped to the 595rsr set of tyres to fix these T1Rs

heres the screw on the front right, least its within the tread

and the more leaky rear left in the tyre groove, again within the tread so hopefully it can be fixed.

 

[h701micra]

I got a complete flat when I got to work today. Odd eh

 

[pollyp]

I got a complete flat when I got to work today. Odd eh

spooky. wonder if ppl r throwing wood screws on the roads or if someones intentionally "screwing" with my tyres when parked

 

[h701micra]

spooky. wonder if ppl r throwing wood screws on the roads or if someones intentionally "screwing" with my tyres when parked

Haha
Mine appeared to be a slow puncture at first, but appears to have sped up somewhat

 

[pollyp]

Haha
Mine appeared to be a slow puncture at first, but appears to have sped up somewhat

same

 

[wehey]

You don't have much luck with punctures eh Pollyp. I have had just 1 in 25 years of driving

 

[SuperUno]

You don't have much luck with punctures eh Pollyp. I have had just 1 in 25 years of driving

Then you are one lucky b***er, I have had three punctures on one rally before.... Had to borrow a spare wheel/tyre from a competitor who had retired to ensure we still had a spare.... Watching the tyre carcass flying off into the woods whilst still doing 50mph round a bend is interesting.... tyre was smoking like anything too!

 

[SirChris]

Then you are one lucky b***er, I have had three punctures on one rally before.... Had to borrow a spare wheel/tyre from a competitor who had retired to ensure we still had a spare.... Watching the tyre carcass flying off into the woods whilst still doing 50mph round a bend is interesting.... tyre was smoking like anything too!

lol I think the roads u choose are a bit more hardcore than the ones we drive dude

 

[SuperUno]

True....!

 

[pollyp]

^ lol.

yea wehey the roads round here r awful especially the potholed country roads and debris full landfill sites

 

[pollyp]

both tyres repaired for £40

printing the 17mm ported oil catch can took all night

but somehow the supporting structure has been melted n forced upwards by the warping of the solid tube feature being formed above so it's become deformed oval

the critical stage of printing the top in mid-air

went to bed as it finishes overnight and the finish is good.

I usually leave the 120c heated bed on after prints cos the lazy me don't have to wait for it to slooowly heat back up for the next print shortly after.
but cos I left it overnight that hot, it's made the soft plastic to mould and fuse very strong onto the brushed stainless bed so it was very very! hard to pry it off the bed short of breaking the model or bending the bed

eventually pryed it off with some force n heat

trimmed the excess and it looks neat

heres the warped squished left inlet tube

the rim of the tin can didn't fit the groove perfectly cos the prolonged heat of the bed and forceful leverage getting it off afterwards may have deformed the edge

so snipped the rim off

cut section out to clear the inlet port

the can slots right into the housing and taped it on secure

ziptied in rough place for the moment to test over few days

made the thinner 10mm port version and plumbed it into the pcv - manifold pipe where most of the oily vapours are sucked in so I should see a fair amount gathered here.

the old leaking oil filter catch can has alot of staining round it, the bodyfiller bonding the tubes on r prob cracked off

filter abit oily damp. can still blow through it easily but its more constricted compaired to the free flowing 3D printed cyclone filter

 

[pollyp]

the catch can on the pcv-manifold leaks too much so it leaned out during cold starts. will need to seal up the porous 3d print with sealant or paint

 

[SirChris]

How did it go after sealing it then?

 

[pollyp]

How did it go after sealing it then?

update in abit, been really busy at work

 

[pollyp]

tried printing the catchcan for the pcv-manifold

but this outer pipe seems to always warp upwards for some reason and spliting apart

and leaving the heated bed on once again makes removal difficult and there's afew weweak layers

extended these support flange ends to anchor the pipes to the bed

plus told the printer to turn off the heated bed & extruder once it finished printing overnight and this worked, the pipe mostly stayed intact and no longer bonded to the bed

slight split but can trim the ends off

insides printer neatly

ports nice n clear

removing the support structures

giving a finished top. but when I tried it, it's too porous and caused a massive vacuum leak so required sealing fully

tried printing the larger catchcan for the pcv breather end with the support flange but once again the heat is warping/spliting the top of the pipe and body away from the lower base

tried again and the extruder jammed, ffs need to redesign to stop this wasting material

redesigned to top to swoop down the middle so it doesn't have to print any long difficult overhangs but still had the problem of heat warping the outer pipes

ok rather than printing the pipes in mid air, why not print the thing upside down so the topside & pipes of the catch can are laying on the printer bed. the 1st layer didn't stick well

ok let's simplify it to a basic top lid with the pipes sticking out the top

dunno why but the pipes still split apart whenever the printed groove follows along the pipe. perhaps it's a weak spot just like wood grains?

and this hanging pipe bit needs support underneath

 

[pollyp]

rethink, rather than trying to print it all one piece and weakening the pipes, make em separate and bond it together instead

printing the base and pipes so the base is smooth flat whilst the printed grooves travel across the pipes rather than along the pipe

the pipes are alot rounder and stronger intact. glued it together.

fits alot better and much stronger

printed the smaller catch can

ok with the tops printed we need to resolve the porous vacuum leaks. read amount ppl smoothing the models with acetone vapours so heated some nail polish remover to 100C on the heated bed and hung a scrap piece overhead and it really works at melting n fusing the outer surface together into a smooth layer

smoothed all the new pieces

and they're all air-tight now..

fitted it onto the lines n went for a test.

initially it ran ok but then I noticed that there was a slight delay before the revs dip whenever I shift up, as though the large catch can is storing the 10psi and then gradually releasing it back into the inlet after the TB was fully closed..

but then during low rev/idle towards junctions she leans out badly and stalls

back at home found that the boost had popped the thin top off the can that was held by thin bit of cellotape, need to design a fixture to securely clamp the topside onto the soup can body to withstand 10psi

 

[pollyp]

other day after fitting the fixed T1Rs, went for a run and back at home immediately heard a hissing and found this FFS

what the hecks wrong with these roads? repair em £15 once again

removed the old wiper motor

chuck away the old catch can

time to replace the wiper motor

the contacts inside appear much fresher

screwed the top back on, installed and working nicely now.

 

[h701micra]

Good R&D there Paul

 

[pollyp]

Good R&D there Paul

thx andy, quite a learning experience n luv it.

btw u free this weekend? was thinking of popping down to look at the primera MC I needed n catch up.

also wondering if you needed assistance with that lathe machining work or designing/printing stuff that we once chatted bout cos I'm considering changing my career n life (cos working my butt off last 2yrs here in 3D software trying to revolutionise business but with little or no pay, over-worked, struggling financially n tbh ain't where my heart belongs long-term) n wanna steer my life back into what I truely luv (cars, design, engineering, fabrication).

 

[h701micra]

thx andy, quite a learning experience n luv it.

btw u free this weekend? was thinking of popping down to look at the primera MC I needed n catch up.

also wondering if you needed assistance with that lathe machining work or designing/printing stuff that we once chatted bout cos I'm considering changing my career n life (cos working my butt off last 2yrs here in 3D software trying to revolutionise business but with little or no pay, over-worked, struggling financially n tbh ain't where my heart belongs long-term) n wanna steer my life back into what I truely luv (cars, design, engineering, fabrication).

Sure Paul come on over. Plenty here to have a pop at

 

[SirChris]

thx andy, quite a learning experience n luv it.

I'm considering changing my career n life (cos working my butt off last 2yrs here in 3D software trying to revolutionise business but with little or no pay, over-worked, struggling financially n tbh ain't where my heart belongs long-term) n wanna steer my life back into what I truely luv (cars, design, engineering, fabrication).

This..right here.. I know this.. doing it now.. do it paul, you need to be happy.

 

[h701micra]

Exactly as Chris says Paul. Make the change. I'm only where I am today because I took the plunge. I knew I wasn't going to become a millionaire overnight but I'm getting there and more than happy now I do what I love

 

[pollyp]

totally agree chris & andy.

as an analogy, me n the developers r like the furnace workers in a small titanic (trying to fit space rockets to it), we can see this titanic is still gonna sink even if afew more little lifeboats turn up.
whereas the bosses vision of trying to get titanic to it's destination fast as possible but ignoring the massive leak below will lead to the inevitable.

the vision has gr8 potential but abit ambitious n flawed.

me n guys wanna jump ship early onto another more reliable and comfortable form of transport that we actually like.

work satisfaction n quality of life n family is more important than false hope of money n dreams. gotta be realistic at this age nowadays

I'll see you on Sat

 

[pollyp]

rear tyre repaired £15 at local ATS and interesting that they patch the hole from the inside rather than stick those normal bung plug that national tyres use just above it

 

[SirChris]

rear tyre repaired £15 at local ATS and interesting that they patch the hole from the inside rather than stick those normal bung plug that national tyres use just above it

View attachment 40160

Those pull thru ones are the best mate

 

[pollyp]

Those pull thru ones are the best mate

cos the patches can delaminate off? just hope I don't get anymore holes, avoiding that country back road now

 

[h701micra]

Pressure holds those ones in. Much better

Saturday it is

 

[pollyp]

Pressure holds those ones in. Much better

Saturday it is

long as it stops the leak, tis only my daily tyres anyway. hopefully they'll be worn out before july so I can fit a new set for the trip to nurburg at end of july.

looking forward to catching up, its been soo long overdue.

 

[h701micra]

long as it stops the leak, tis only my daily tyres anyway. hopefully they'll be worn out before july so I can fit a new set for the trip to nurburg at end of july.

looking forward to catching up, its been soo long overdue.

Way too long overdue. I have a new house now so I'm not where you left me either

 

[pollyp]

Way too long overdue. I have a new house now so I'm not where you left me either

whoa when did that happen? pm/txt ur addr. the ppl at ur old place woulda gotten a surprise if I turned up there this weekend lol.
gee I've been so stuck under this rock for awhile
#I want to break free#

 

[h701micra]

whoa when did that happen? pm/txt ur addr. the ppl at ur old place woulda gotten a surprise if I turned up there this weekend lol.
gee I've been so stuck under this rock for awhile
#I want to break free#

I'll text you now
Happened last week. Was all very fast

 

[pollyp]

got it, thx.
so the mighty picasso's fixed?

 

[pollyp]

designed a little v-band to clamp the catch can together under boost

 

[h701micra]

got it, thx.
so the mighty picasso's fixed?

The mighty Picasso has left the building
An astra has replaced it now

 

[pollyp]

printed the v-band clamp

smoothed with acetone vapour to fuse it together stronger

clamps on nice n tight. soon see if it finally withstands the boost

 

[h701micra]

Bringing this with you Saturday?

 

[pollyp]

Aye, testing it today going to work see if it holds together.