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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
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h701micra
Deactivated Account
Slightly different one, if I'd of known I could of got one that cheap I would have.I can't wait either. same one?
heard some ppl saying cos they're under administration, orders took ages or never arrived.
although I've been emailed that mines already been despatched and due arrive tomorrow. prob cos this was a clearance website they wanna sell this stuff off asap. fine by me, long as I get all the bits n working
can't wait to start designing n making plastic bits for the car n stuff
Ah well.... still be fun to make things
First project for you?
Mines a mold for fibreglass parts
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pollyp
Club Member
Slightly different one, if I'd of known I could of got one that cheap I would have.
Ah well.... still be fun to make things
First project for you?
Mines a mold for fibreglass parts
definately fun to be able to make things at home.
was so excited when it arrived, took 6-7hrs till sill'o'clock to build & run cos there were afew design errors I had to dremel
needed alot of fiddling to get working right and afew design flaws but tis gr8.
my first project would be to print a pair of caps to go over the coilover tops to stop all the muck building up into the pillowball n ruining them.
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pollyp
Club Member
last week was disassembling the non-abs MS to clean & inspect
vacuum booster servo ID
take apart the pedal end
MS unbolts from the servo
removing the reservoir off the MS was an absolute PITA, had to pull/yank & pry it off with a big screwdriver, thought I was gonna bend & deform/break the nozzle off the bottom
removing the front rubber reservoir seal was easy but the rear was stuck for a reason, turns out that ur suppose to remove the yellow plastic nozzle end beforehand
this yellow plastic cover seemed to be clipped on but whilst pushing the clips inwards, it won't budge out? don't wanna pry it off n damage it.
anyone got an idea or done it before?
vacuum booster servo ID
take apart the pedal end
MS unbolts from the servo
removing the reservoir off the MS was an absolute PITA, had to pull/yank & pry it off with a big screwdriver, thought I was gonna bend & deform/break the nozzle off the bottom
removing the front rubber reservoir seal was easy but the rear was stuck for a reason, turns out that ur suppose to remove the yellow plastic nozzle end beforehand
this yellow plastic cover seemed to be clipped on but whilst pushing the clips inwards, it won't budge out? don't wanna pry it off n damage it.
anyone got an idea or done it before?
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pollyp
Club Member
last few days been exciting. received my new Makibox 3D printer
there were afew design/construction errors but quick dremel fixed that. took over 6hrs to carefully build neatly.
hook up to laptop and 1-2hrs of initial setup/calibration
first uncalibrated untuned print was abit wobbly rough, all the linkages n joints need more tweaking
this is the mount for the extruder hot tip and the screw just basically goes into the plastic hole and it's cracked. cos the more solid metal bracket is just underneath, I drilled the hole through and stuck a longer screw down into the metal rather than plastic. tis much stronger/stiffer now and reduces wobbling
the design office. lets make some dust covers for the coilovers
evolution of the designs
the first design was gonna slip down inside the hole and the little tabs wedges it
but it was slightly too big and with the straight walls, couldn't account for varying hole diameters.
next design is tapered to wedge inside the hole
but the wedge was too steep so couldn't stay in place.
instead lets make it oversized to fit around the outside of the hole and include these small bumps to take up the slack
first run had a single wall thickness and a stop/start stepping build up but this caused a major defect u see at the back where it lays the next layer plus a single wall was too thin. when I test fit it, the weak thin strands split apart
a double thickness wall stiffens it but afew settings still needed tuning to improve the print quality
this time I got the settings just right and extruded the walls in a single spiral strand method rather than a stop/start stepping mathod, and this vastly improved the smooth quality of the walls
video of the prints
fits nicely over the hole
there were afew design/construction errors but quick dremel fixed that. took over 6hrs to carefully build neatly.
hook up to laptop and 1-2hrs of initial setup/calibration
first uncalibrated untuned print was abit wobbly rough, all the linkages n joints need more tweaking
this is the mount for the extruder hot tip and the screw just basically goes into the plastic hole and it's cracked. cos the more solid metal bracket is just underneath, I drilled the hole through and stuck a longer screw down into the metal rather than plastic. tis much stronger/stiffer now and reduces wobbling
the design office. lets make some dust covers for the coilovers
evolution of the designs
the first design was gonna slip down inside the hole and the little tabs wedges it
but it was slightly too big and with the straight walls, couldn't account for varying hole diameters.
next design is tapered to wedge inside the hole
but the wedge was too steep so couldn't stay in place.
instead lets make it oversized to fit around the outside of the hole and include these small bumps to take up the slack
first run had a single wall thickness and a stop/start stepping build up but this caused a major defect u see at the back where it lays the next layer plus a single wall was too thin. when I test fit it, the weak thin strands split apart
a double thickness wall stiffens it but afew settings still needed tuning to improve the print quality
this time I got the settings just right and extruded the walls in a single spiral strand method rather than a stop/start stepping mathod, and this vastly improved the smooth quality of the walls
video of the prints
fits nicely over the hole
Last edited:
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pollyp
Club Member
they're selling em off in clearance at this site
http://www.makiboxclearance.co.uk/
mine's the £250 HT version with heated bed to print high temp ABS & low temp PLA plastics.
the £200 LT unheated version can only print PLA plastics.
be warned it takes some detailed technical fiddling to get it running correctly, but when it works spot on it's brill
whenever it prints large circles it sounds like an air raid siren lol
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pollyp
Club Member
gr8 minds think alike.
after finishing the coilover caps, I thought about printing some plastic clips to replace the broken HT lead holders but had problems printing cos the tensioner wheel for the filament feeder motor had cracked so it kept slipping and no feed, a silly cheap design.
tried stuffing some rubber inbetween the spokes to stiffen it but was too soft and still slipped
need to apply something that that was firm but not rock solid. didn't have a glue gun but the nearest fix at 11pm is the printers extruder itself. placed the wheel under the tip and manually pushed the plastic in all the spokes
dremelled it flat
nope, now it's wayy too solid stiff and chewing up the filament.
bah, so I'll need to completely redesign the filament feed mechanism
after finishing the coilover caps, I thought about printing some plastic clips to replace the broken HT lead holders but had problems printing cos the tensioner wheel for the filament feeder motor had cracked so it kept slipping and no feed, a silly cheap design.
tried stuffing some rubber inbetween the spokes to stiffen it but was too soft and still slipped
need to apply something that that was firm but not rock solid. didn't have a glue gun but the nearest fix at 11pm is the printers extruder itself. placed the wheel under the tip and manually pushed the plastic in all the spokes
dremelled it flat
nope, now it's wayy too solid stiff and chewing up the filament.
bah, so I'll need to completely redesign the filament feed mechanism
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pollyp
Club Member
after measuring n modelling these bits
it took all night to design this mechanism to fit in the existing tight space without much change
reusing the old wheel cos it's thin & large whereas a bearing & bolt would be too thick.
just have to make the support frame (green) out of plastic or wood and the swing arm (orange) from sheet steel
it took all night to design this mechanism to fit in the existing tight space without much change
reusing the old wheel cos it's thin & large whereas a bearing & bolt would be too thick.
just have to make the support frame (green) out of plastic or wood and the swing arm (orange) from sheet steel
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pollyp
Club Member
made the support frame and swing arm
fitted like this
it didn't work. the plastic wheel was too flimsy, couldn't grip the filament and kept jamming against the wooden frame and the swing arm couldn't stay straight under tension.
Redesign #2 is much stiffer n simpler
using a smaller ball bearing (purple), both sides of the bearing axle is pushed against the motor shaft & filament by a fork-type rod (orange) which is pushed by a screw going into the frames mid-plate (green). the bearings axle and the fork rod slides along the groove featured on the inner & outer frame plates (blue & grey)
another view of the basic assembly mechanism
fitted like this
it didn't work. the plastic wheel was too flimsy, couldn't grip the filament and kept jamming against the wooden frame and the swing arm couldn't stay straight under tension.
Redesign #2 is much stiffer n simpler
using a smaller ball bearing (purple), both sides of the bearing axle is pushed against the motor shaft & filament by a fork-type rod (orange) which is pushed by a screw going into the frames mid-plate (green). the bearings axle and the fork rod slides along the groove featured on the inner & outer frame plates (blue & grey)
another view of the basic assembly mechanism
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pollyp
Club Member
i luv designing n making stuff me
h701micra
Deactivated Account
It's what makes the world go roundi luv designing n making stuff me
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pollyp
Club Member
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pollyp
Club Member
with the feeder mechanism working again, the first task is to print a proper neater version to replace the wooden one
print the fork arm
the main case
all bits made
assembled to work alot better
at some point, the tensioner was too tight, which crushed the filament too thin and buckles/tangles over the long distance between the gear and the feed tube above
redesigned to bring the feeder tube down closer to the motor gear
printed, and now much stabler
now lets get back to making the clips.
here's the throttle cable clip
2-cable clip for HT lead 1-2
4-cable clip
new clips vs original
print the fork arm
the main case
all bits made
assembled to work alot better
at some point, the tensioner was too tight, which crushed the filament too thin and buckles/tangles over the long distance between the gear and the feed tube above
redesigned to bring the feeder tube down closer to the motor gear
printed, and now much stabler
now lets get back to making the clips.
here's the throttle cable clip
2-cable clip for HT lead 1-2
4-cable clip
new clips vs original
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pollyp
Club Member
tapped the threads onto the clip and screwed it on and yay looks the biz. went for a drive and nothings melted
next is the steering drifting to the left. checked the tread depths.
the RH depths alot thicker than the LH which may explain the polystyrene cup drift.
swapped the tyres left to right
went for a drive and she either stays straight on a cambered street road or drifts abit right on motorway..so the tread depths definately affecting alignment and can't do much bout it but to reduce the effect while keeping the tyres directional, I swap just the thicker RH tyres front to rear.
went for drive and the drift is alot less but still kinda there. meh
next is the steering drifting to the left. checked the tread depths.
the RH depths alot thicker than the LH which may explain the polystyrene cup drift.
swapped the tyres left to right
went for a drive and she either stays straight on a cambered street road or drifts abit right on motorway..so the tread depths definately affecting alignment and can't do much bout it but to reduce the effect while keeping the tyres directional, I swap just the thicker RH tyres front to rear.
went for drive and the drift is alot less but still kinda there. meh
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pollyp
Club Member
aye cos we drive on the LH cambered roads and go clockwise on roundbouts and one disadv of directional tyres but tis minor.
I've equalised all the tyre pressures after swapping the tyres and it's now tracking dead straight on the flat motorways
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pollyp
Club Member
was driving home pass through a village, past some cars downhill pressed brake and then heard BANG! what the hell?
steering was straight, didn't crash into anything, drives like normal
but then noticed when the LSD chatters during RH junctions and whenever I brake, it bangs. thats not good, need to check asap.
jacked up, wheel bearings fine, tie rods fine, apply brakes n turn wheel and the calipers fine, ain't loose..
but as I wriggle the wheel I noticed it's actually moving forw/backw HUH thats really not normal.
checked the front poly bush, nope definately fine, looked at the rear bush and oh my
Andy, u once wanted pic of broken lower arm, here's ur lucky day
that BANG was the rear arm pin snapping off. how the heck that happen? perhaps the pin was really seized solid in the rear rubber bush and the repeated swinging of the arm over the years had twisted n fatigued that joint till it snaps off?
anyway it'll be offline for the week while I ordered another arm off ebay.
steering was straight, didn't crash into anything, drives like normal
but then noticed when the LSD chatters during RH junctions and whenever I brake, it bangs. thats not good, need to check asap.
jacked up, wheel bearings fine, tie rods fine, apply brakes n turn wheel and the calipers fine, ain't loose..
but as I wriggle the wheel I noticed it's actually moving forw/backw HUH thats really not normal.
checked the front poly bush, nope definately fine, looked at the rear bush and oh my
Andy, u once wanted pic of broken lower arm, here's ur lucky day
that BANG was the rear arm pin snapping off. how the heck that happen? perhaps the pin was really seized solid in the rear rubber bush and the repeated swinging of the arm over the years had twisted n fatigued that joint till it snaps off?
anyway it'll be offline for the week while I ordered another arm off ebay.
SirChris
Educated Bodger
been looking in to making these.
h701micra
Deactivated Account
They're a pain in the ass..
Getting the ball joint at the right angle, bush at the right angle and the design correct. Used a lot of material and time getting a set to function. Unless they're jigged they're a waste of time
I'm still going for it but I can't see them being either A cheap or B worthwhile. Personally I'd stick to standard ones unless your building a kit car type
SirChris
Educated Bodger
wide...oneday. also double wishbone thoughts eh?They're a pain in the ass..
Getting the ball joint at the right angle, bush at the right angle and the design correct. Used a lot of material and time getting a set to function. Unless they're jigged they're a waste of time
I'm still going for it but I can't see them being either A cheap or B worthwhile. Personally I'd stick to standard ones unless your building a kit car type
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Aye. Already on it. H701s are 10mm longer than standard to increase my roll over tolerance without changing my roll centres.
Twin wishbone pushrod in design for Nissanubaru. Tis why I made standard wishbones as practice
Making a standard one teaches you the angles and stresses of ball joints. Gives you an educated ground running start on complete custom ones unless you re-create the hub too, which is also a challenge but worth it when making a complete custom made car ie the little dp4 kart replica I'm trying out. Definitely good fun
SirChris
Educated Bodger
yea what you said, I am still too thick for that ****. sounds clever though. I would be really worried with my own designs, wouldnt want one coming apart lol
I am still too thick for that ****. sounds clever though. I would be really worried with my own designs, wouldnt want one coming apart lolAye. Already on it. H701s are 10mm longer than standard to increase my roll over tolerance without changing my roll centres.
Twin wishbone pushrod in design for Nissanubaru. Tis why I made standard wishbones as practice
Making a standard one teaches you the angles and stresses of ball joints. Gives you an educated ground running start on complete custom ones unless you re-create the hub too, which is also a challenge but worth it when making a complete custom made car ie the little dp4 kart replica I'm trying out. Definitely good fun
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Haha no, theyre kind of important. Doesn't stop you having a go though manyea what you said,
Just mimic a standard one first off and go from there. If i'm any help let me know I don't mind. Be good to see some other stuffs.
But longer wishbones is longer shafts and altering the mounting angle the shocks etc too.. so you need to alter the top of the suspension turret so your bearing doesn't crunch on compression.
SirChris
Educated Bodger
I did think of kitcar arms to account for sr20 driveshaft lengths, on the note of shafts and crunch. Yeah will have a go when my welding isnt so pants.
i have been practising
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Still encounter suspension top mount angle issues, but its simple to adjustI did think of kitcar arms to account for sr20 driveshaft lengths, on the note of shafts and crunch. Yeah will have a go when my welding isnt so pants.
A beginner practices so he can get it right
A professional practices so they can't get it wrong
That's what I got told
SirChris
Educated Bodger
right in my books = not having my welds on my harnesss points failing and launching me into the dash/windscreen lolStill encounter suspension top mount angle issues, but its simple to adjust
A beginner practices so he can get it right
A professional practices so they can't get it wrong
That's what I got told
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Oh... no that's not good haha
Weld them outside the car, they would have to pull through the floor even if the weld failed
SirChris
Educated Bodger
in hind sight... should have... i will do at a later date... I will want to no doubt go over my work. A ramp would be nice eh
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Yup. Continuous progression and evolution
I have a roll over jig instead. Much nicer than working above your head although you can't have any fluids in the car or loose things
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pollyp
Club Member
that would be luvely one day.
at the mo my arms sit flat horizontal at static height so when it's under load, its actually swinging inwards n inducing the wrong +ve camber n prob causes some more outer tread wear.
if I space the lower ball joint to sit lower so that the arms r pointing down at static height it'll swing outwards during high loads to induce some -ve camber.
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pollyp
Club Member
another screw puncture at the front right tyre to fix
K pop driveshaft off
remove lockpin & wirebrush the exposed threads clean
unscrew balljoint nut
broken lower arm removed
some fracture pics for andy. can clearly see it's a lateral bending fracture rather than a twist.
the fracture on the inner side of the crack is shiny n rough (this is where it began to crack)
the sharp little flick of metal on the outer side is dull n fresh (this was the last bit of metal holding the arm together till it snapped)
this indicated the failure happened during hard braking and/or bump, and indeed I was braking and prob hit a small pothole at the moment it snapped.
join the pieces to see the cause. the outer RH is a clean snap
well there's the problem, tis a faulty weld that created a sharp high stress point
the poly bushes intact
K pop driveshaft off
remove lockpin & wirebrush the exposed threads clean
unscrew balljoint nut
broken lower arm removed
some fracture pics for andy. can clearly see it's a lateral bending fracture rather than a twist.
the fracture on the inner side of the crack is shiny n rough (this is where it began to crack)
the sharp little flick of metal on the outer side is dull n fresh (this was the last bit of metal holding the arm together till it snapped)
this indicated the failure happened during hard braking and/or bump, and indeed I was braking and prob hit a small pothole at the moment it snapped.
join the pieces to see the cause. the outer RH is a clean snap
well there's the problem, tis a faulty weld that created a sharp high stress point
the poly bushes intact
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pollyp
Club Member
new arm
nicely spot welded together
ARB mount punched in
hmm the front end of the bush casing is just tack welded to the rest of the arm, a potential weak spot
the welding at the rear end is better, goes right up to the washer end
apply some red rubber grease onto the rear bush to keep it spinning smoothly
comparing the welding of the old broken arm vs new arm. notice the old arm was seam welded all along most of the sides whereas the new arm are simply spot welded and only afew welds here n there.
here's a difference, the length n welding of the new arm goes right up to the rear bushing so it's less likely to snap now
drill the front rubber bush to weaken it
was a pita to remove
carefully saw two grooves n chisel the remaining bush casing out
poly bushes in
arms fitted and back to normal now
nicely spot welded together
ARB mount punched in
hmm the front end of the bush casing is just tack welded to the rest of the arm, a potential weak spot
the welding at the rear end is better, goes right up to the washer end
apply some red rubber grease onto the rear bush to keep it spinning smoothly
comparing the welding of the old broken arm vs new arm. notice the old arm was seam welded all along most of the sides whereas the new arm are simply spot welded and only afew welds here n there.
here's a difference, the length n welding of the new arm goes right up to the rear bushing so it's less likely to snap now
drill the front rubber bush to weaken it
was a pita to remove
carefully saw two grooves n chisel the remaining bush casing out
poly bushes in
arms fitted and back to normal now
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Ta Ed
Need to sort my linkedin page. Signed up and got no further
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pollyp
Club Member
Red rubber grease is fantastic stuff
That fatigue point is a good one. Thankfully my design avoids it
aye keeps the rubber lubed for longer and doesnt make it swell.
glad the info'll help highlight some potential weaknesses in copy parts.
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pollyp
Club Member
clutch has once again been getting harder n stickier n creaking under the strain over the past few weeks.
removed the cable and since I applied some gearbox oil through it mths ago, it's now gunked up n very sticky.
so to get it moving again turn it upright
spray alot of thin wd40 inside and work it in/out for several minutes to let gravity flush the old gunk out till it slides freely again.
this is the mess coming out at the bottom. it now slides effortlessly.
fitted it back and now the pedals working smooth n light again.
note to self: it should be mandentory to periodically re-oil the clutch cable whenever I service the car.
next issue is the oil cap which I think is leaking cos the rubber seal has squished flat over the yrs and this edge on the black cap is preventing it from fully compressing n sealing properly
removed the seal
so carefully milled the problematic plastic edge off with the dremel
so now the cap can screw down and fully compress the seal
next to-do task list is prob make some better loom clips here
removed the cable and since I applied some gearbox oil through it mths ago, it's now gunked up n very sticky.
so to get it moving again turn it upright
spray alot of thin wd40 inside and work it in/out for several minutes to let gravity flush the old gunk out till it slides freely again.
this is the mess coming out at the bottom. it now slides effortlessly.
fitted it back and now the pedals working smooth n light again.
note to self: it should be mandentory to periodically re-oil the clutch cable whenever I service the car.
next issue is the oil cap which I think is leaking cos the rubber seal has squished flat over the yrs and this edge on the black cap is preventing it from fully compressing n sealing properly
removed the seal
so carefully milled the problematic plastic edge off with the dremel
so now the cap can screw down and fully compress the seal
next to-do task list is prob make some better loom clips here
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pollyp
Club Member
Ooo Paul
I have a clip problem you could solve
I know you like a challenge
how can I be of assistance
