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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
frank
Club Member
is yours a 2 way diff tho matt ?
frank
Club Member
helical/torsen type then matt ?
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pollyp
Club Member
Mine's a properly booked track day on Sunday, hence my panic to get it ready
Both me and Colin will be there, along with a few others who want a passenger ride in H701
U have a long passenger list
finish it slow n steady at ur hearts pace see ya early tomorrow. Just fixing a creaking clutch now.
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pollyp
Club Member
Looks the same clutch-pack type Lsd as mine.
h701micra
Deactivated Account
I know, and I've no idea why, likely to leave many people with minor spine injuriesU have a long passenger list
I need to get things sorted tomorrow for this unit, pick up my keys, and get my car finished and then I'll join you up there
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pollyp
Club Member
I know, and I've no idea why, likely to leave many people with minor spine injuries
I need to get things sorted tomorrow for this unit, pick up my keys, and get my car finished and then I'll join you up there
Yup good plan n priorities
h701micra
Deactivated Account
I'll keep you posted via text
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pollyp
Club Member
removed the clutch cable.
one reason for the creaking was this loose nut bolt at the cable end. retightened with thread lock
this rubber end was prob rubbing on the cable so removed that
torn bit of the cover. trimmed and refitted.
moving the inner cable I noticed it was very sticky so Chris, think you're right twas the sticky cable that may have caused the failures recently.
I relubed it with loadsa gear oil I had laying around, work it into the cable hole till the movement free's up.
fitted the cable and oh my.. it feels so smooth n lighter
lesson learnt, always lube up ur poor clutch cable whether new or old.
pedal needs lowering so welded a washer over the cut hole
weld nut onto washer
and can adjust the pedal from 26mm down to 24mm to the bulkhead.
so much nicer to drive now, need a moment to adjust to the lower clutch pedal.
cars all setup, prepped n ready for setting off in few hours.
if anyone's going to cadwell tday, see ya in abit
one reason for the creaking was this loose nut bolt at the cable end. retightened with thread lock
this rubber end was prob rubbing on the cable so removed that
torn bit of the cover. trimmed and refitted.
moving the inner cable I noticed it was very sticky so Chris, think you're right twas the sticky cable that may have caused the failures recently.
I relubed it with loadsa gear oil I had laying around, work it into the cable hole till the movement free's up.
fitted the cable and oh my.. it feels so smooth n lighter
lesson learnt, always lube up ur poor clutch cable whether new or old.
pedal needs lowering so welded a washer over the cut hole
weld nut onto washer
and can adjust the pedal from 26mm down to 24mm to the bulkhead.
so much nicer to drive now, need a moment to adjust to the lower clutch pedal.
cars all setup, prepped n ready for setting off in few hours.
if anyone's going to cadwell tday, see ya in abit
h701micra
Deactivated Account
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pollyp
Club Member
That's how us developmental cars work
Drive, Build, Break, Repair & Repeat
Kaizen - continuous incremental improvements
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pollyp
Club Member
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pollyp
Club Member
Today was great Paul, yet more info gathered for further development
I'll dig the primera mc out for you
was def a fun exciting track when it dried and gathered alot of pro/con data on the setup.
the primera/skyline MC is a must for next time cos really need confident braking consistancy.
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pollyp
Club Member
Coolant Sensor Resistance Test
After finding my box of spare coolant sensors I decided to test & plot their readings and compare to the haynes spec.
hooked multimeter to the sensor, dunked in a glass with my thermal probe, poured boiled water in, and recorded the readings on the camera to playback & plot on excel
tested the ECU coolant sensor and the temp gauge sensor and resulted in this.
red curve = instrument gauge sensor
purple curve = ECU coolant sensor
for the ECU coolant sensor, haynes say
20C = 2.5k
50C = 0.85k
90C = 0.25k
for the gauge sensor it says
52.5C = 2.1k
65.0C = 1.175 - 1.42k
91.0C = 0.47 - 0.57k
119C = 0.21 - 0.235k
so the sensors are within spec
After finding my box of spare coolant sensors I decided to test & plot their readings and compare to the haynes spec.
hooked multimeter to the sensor, dunked in a glass with my thermal probe, poured boiled water in, and recorded the readings on the camera to playback & plot on excel
tested the ECU coolant sensor and the temp gauge sensor and resulted in this.
red curve = instrument gauge sensor
purple curve = ECU coolant sensor
for the ECU coolant sensor, haynes say
20C = 2.5k
50C = 0.85k
90C = 0.25k
for the gauge sensor it says
52.5C = 2.1k
65.0C = 1.175 - 1.42k
91.0C = 0.47 - 0.57k
119C = 0.21 - 0.235k
so the sensors are within spec
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pollyp
Club Member
Cadwell Park 2014-10-31
woke at 3, set off at 4am for the long sleepy drive to andys.
thought he was going as passenger but cos he just obtained his new garage unit that day, he'll be busy sorting that out.
so popped down to cadwell myself, twas a very foggy misty morning and thought this is abit tricky to drive a track in.
signed in, prepped car, dunno what tyre pressure so stuck at 3bars for now, unloaded, sound check, briefing
took awhile for organisers to clear the track ready for the sighting lap
back at pits, looking at tyre tread it's only scrubbing 3/4 of the area so definately overinflated and deflated em down to 2.7bars
first run, twas abit damp n greasy, taking it cautiously, twas slightly scared of pushing the engine too high cos something will blow. at one point I heard a loud pop during high rev and thought gawd is that me backfiring? but it's prob the guy in front backfiring n the sound shaking my bulkhead.
at 2:55 locked the front wheels before the very greasy hairpin which unsettled the rear end and went abit wider.
times:
2.26
2.34
glaring winter sun came out on a drying track. grip was good on the dry bits with little or no squealing at sections where the T1R would be screaming but not fully confident and cautious of the semi slicks on the damp parts cos of the slight oversteer moment at the greasy hairpin. alot of fast cars that day.
times:
2.16
2.16
at 5:50 WOT down the straight I began to hear some hissing
6:00 lifting off to check if it was my car blowing, yup
6:10 the exhaust bolts fell out under the car, power dropped off, zero boost, exhaust blowing
badly sounded like a chav
opened bonnet and oh bugga that ain't good. the nut bolt holding the turbo to the mani has dropped out and the two front bolts and just slack so the gasket was just cooked.
what I do now, ain't got any spare bolts to fix this and ain't a easy bit to access with spanners.
phoned andy, urm HELP?
he had some m8 bolts and coincidently cos he just got keys to his new garage round the corner from his place, we could fix it there
tightened the remaining bolts best I can and nursed it back to his place. got some tools, popped to check out the unit
tis very roomy, well done andy. the adventure starts here. wish I had a garage like that.
car was the first to enter and christen Ye Andys Palace
got talking too long, asked local shop at last minute for a T2 gasket and no one has em cos tis not something they commonly sell so will have to botch a get me back home solution.
was gonna remove the whole turbo for better access to the back bolts but cba too much work so just covered the old gasket with copper sealant and fitted 3 of the 4 bolts best I can.
it held and got me home. all tired
woke at 3, set off at 4am for the long sleepy drive to andys.
thought he was going as passenger but cos he just obtained his new garage unit that day, he'll be busy sorting that out.
so popped down to cadwell myself, twas a very foggy misty morning and thought this is abit tricky to drive a track in.
signed in, prepped car, dunno what tyre pressure so stuck at 3bars for now, unloaded, sound check, briefing
took awhile for organisers to clear the track ready for the sighting lap
back at pits, looking at tyre tread it's only scrubbing 3/4 of the area so definately overinflated and deflated em down to 2.7bars
first run, twas abit damp n greasy, taking it cautiously, twas slightly scared of pushing the engine too high cos something will blow. at one point I heard a loud pop during high rev and thought gawd is that me backfiring? but it's prob the guy in front backfiring n the sound shaking my bulkhead.
at 2:55 locked the front wheels before the very greasy hairpin which unsettled the rear end and went abit wider.
times:
2.26
2.34
glaring winter sun came out on a drying track. grip was good on the dry bits with little or no squealing at sections where the T1R would be screaming but not fully confident and cautious of the semi slicks on the damp parts cos of the slight oversteer moment at the greasy hairpin. alot of fast cars that day.
times:
2.16
2.16
at 5:50 WOT down the straight I began to hear some hissing
6:00 lifting off to check if it was my car blowing, yup
6:10 the exhaust bolts fell out under the car, power dropped off, zero boost, exhaust blowing
badly sounded like a chav
opened bonnet and oh bugga that ain't good. the nut bolt holding the turbo to the mani has dropped out and the two front bolts and just slack so the gasket was just cooked.
what I do now, ain't got any spare bolts to fix this and ain't a easy bit to access with spanners.
phoned andy, urm HELP?
he had some m8 bolts and coincidently cos he just got keys to his new garage round the corner from his place, we could fix it there
tightened the remaining bolts best I can and nursed it back to his place. got some tools, popped to check out the unit
tis very roomy, well done andy. the adventure starts here. wish I had a garage like that.
car was the first to enter and christen Ye Andys Palace
got talking too long, asked local shop at last minute for a T2 gasket and no one has em cos tis not something they commonly sell so will have to botch a get me back home solution.
was gonna remove the whole turbo for better access to the back bolts but cba too much work so just covered the old gasket with copper sealant and fitted 3 of the 4 bolts best I can.
it held and got me home. all tired
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pollyp
Club Member
saturday fixing the broken gasket.
here's the copper sealanted old gasket
asked all my local parts shops n dealers for a T2 turbo gasket for like a renault 5gt or fiesta rs turb, not a chance cos tis a specialist part.
exhaust place suggested some uht sealant, smeared some free on the old gasket but it hardened by the time I popped to afew more shops.
got some copper sealant, engine bits shop sold me some gasket sheet to make my own, looks like Victor Reinz HG material, didn't know if it'll hold against a turbo on track
rather than unplug n remove the whole assembly, I just unbolt the top mani off
tried grinding the mani edges off to help fit the bolts from above, little difference cos of the manifold bend
rather than risk fitting and burning out a weak gasket out of that HG sheet, decided to try make my own copper gasket out of that sheet I brought off ebay recently.
cut the hole near as I can
deburred best I can
coated in copper sealant
bolted with allen bolts and some with lock washers
went for drive to try heat cure it and boosted few times. back at home spotting that although it mostly holds up, I can still see abit of the hardened sealant on the front mid edge of the copper gasket blowing/bubbling when reving so it ain't perfectly sealed but it'll have to do for tomorrow.
here's the copper sealanted old gasket
asked all my local parts shops n dealers for a T2 turbo gasket for like a renault 5gt or fiesta rs turb, not a chance cos tis a specialist part.
exhaust place suggested some uht sealant, smeared some free on the old gasket but it hardened by the time I popped to afew more shops.
got some copper sealant, engine bits shop sold me some gasket sheet to make my own, looks like Victor Reinz HG material, didn't know if it'll hold against a turbo on track
rather than unplug n remove the whole assembly, I just unbolt the top mani off
tried grinding the mani edges off to help fit the bolts from above, little difference cos of the manifold bend
rather than risk fitting and burning out a weak gasket out of that HG sheet, decided to try make my own copper gasket out of that sheet I brought off ebay recently.
cut the hole near as I can
deburred best I can
coated in copper sealant
bolted with allen bolts and some with lock washers
went for drive to try heat cure it and boosted few times. back at home spotting that although it mostly holds up, I can still see abit of the hardened sealant on the front mid edge of the copper gasket blowing/bubbling when reving so it ain't perfectly sealed but it'll have to do for tomorrow.
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pollyp
Club Member
Blyton Park 2014-11-02
early morning drive to blyton. not been there before so followed tomtom to their postcode DN21 3PE but it took me to a wrong road n failed to notice a private property sign saying no access for motorsport track and tis a dead end.
remember andy n colin mention bout the rough entry into the track so when I drove in the wrong road it got really rough n muddy n looked like a scrap yard. naa this ain't right, turned back out, noticed the no entry sign, oops.
went further down the road using the phones satnav and now noticed the blyton park signs
arrived too early at 7:00 in the pouring rain. decided to goto nearby tesco for cash n umbrella but was closed till 10.
back at the track found andy n colin had arrived, signed in, briefing, unloaded tools, setup car n cameras but took too long and just missed the sighting lap with the guys.
rain stopped.
cars arrive back but track was held up cos someone broke down.
ahh see the recovery vehicle and just being towed behind...oh gawd its andy
we were joking earlier that our number stickers were indicating the number of breakdowns on the day mine was 24 and his was 2 but we didn't expect it to happen after his first corner. oh poor andy.
I was asked to do 3 steady'ish laps once group comes back to get used to the layout then pit.
although the track was damp, the car n tyres were really stable with loadsa grip
set dampers 15/10 clicks front/rear to sharpen the feel but have enough complience for the wet tarmac. noticed at 3bars the tyres only touching 3/4 the area so reduced to 2.7bars for more contact patch
at 5:40 we were following behind bmw m5 that liked power sliding out the corners till he spun at 9:45
times:
1.41
1.43
1.33
1.36
1.48
1.38
1.37
looked at andys car, had no spark. plugs were rich, ign coil had 12v but the lead going through the condensor had no resistance although andy said it even worked before without that wire connected. abit puzzled, left other guys to look at it while I go back out.
set dampers 20/15 front/rear to further stiffen the handling. tyre still not fully touching yet so reduced to 2.5/2.7bars front/rear.
track feeling better and some sweeping corners getting grippier n faster.
was overtaking a red escort at 7:00 under braking but trail braked too far n had to countersteer, that was an exciting moment for us
times:
1.42
1.32
1.30
1.28
1.27
1.32
1.37
1.43
1.30
1.28
1.25
was running low on fuel so needed refuel and me gf was getting abit queezy (i don't blame her cos I'd feel the same as a passenger, sorry hun) but she enjoyed herself. went to nearest station for super unl but since twas near 12:30 and track would close for lunch, decided to have a nice lunch at pub with gf.
on way back as I arrived andy had just been pushed back into pits. it was working on track till I just arrived jinx, I'll just pop back out to pub with me lady eh
he said it was tweaking his ign coil HT lead that made it work for abit. we check afew things but was baffled again.
so in the mean time to cure it, lets take him out in mine to think it over
times:
1.36
1.31
track felt really good n grippy n can go flat out on most corners. Port Fraid is my fav corner pop in 4th WOT and the 595rsr has enough grip to stick with it before the deep braking into Ushers.
brakes need fixing cos i'm double pumping and at Ushers I sometimes sense the brakes fading or boiling.
caterham spun so track stopped for recovery.
cam didn't rec next good session with andy.
went for a run by myself, adjusted dampers to 15/20 front/rear to see if it makes it more towards oversteer to help turn-in, yup abit more twitchy on fast bends but felt good n fast.
times:
1.23
1.21
1.24
1.23
1.19
1.25
1.22
1.25
1.21
looking back at andys car, he checked loose ign switch, ign coils, wires but nothing worked.
recalled the ign coil/dizzy HT lead connector was broken/damaged off so perhaps wrap it with copper wiring for better contact. it worked we all decided to go home now since it's late n andy needs to get this working car back to homebase to fix it proper.
it's been a fab day out and caught this last wallpaper shot
early morning drive to blyton. not been there before so followed tomtom to their postcode DN21 3PE but it took me to a wrong road n failed to notice a private property sign saying no access for motorsport track and tis a dead end.
remember andy n colin mention bout the rough entry into the track so when I drove in the wrong road it got really rough n muddy n looked like a scrap yard. naa this ain't right, turned back out, noticed the no entry sign, oops.
went further down the road using the phones satnav and now noticed the blyton park signs
arrived too early at 7:00 in the pouring rain. decided to goto nearby tesco for cash n umbrella but was closed till 10.
back at the track found andy n colin had arrived, signed in, briefing, unloaded tools, setup car n cameras but took too long and just missed the sighting lap with the guys.
rain stopped.
cars arrive back but track was held up cos someone broke down.
ahh see the recovery vehicle and just being towed behind...oh gawd its andy
we were joking earlier that our number stickers were indicating the number of breakdowns on the day
mine was 24 and his was 2 but we didn't expect it to happen after his first corner. oh poor andy.I was asked to do 3 steady'ish laps once group comes back to get used to the layout then pit.
although the track was damp, the car n tyres were really stable with loadsa grip
set dampers 15/10 clicks front/rear to sharpen the feel but have enough complience for the wet tarmac. noticed at 3bars the tyres only touching 3/4 the area so reduced to 2.7bars for more contact patch
at 5:40 we were following behind bmw m5 that liked power sliding out the corners till he spun at 9:45
times:
1.41
1.43
1.33
1.36
1.48
1.38
1.37
looked at andys car, had no spark. plugs were rich, ign coil had 12v but the lead going through the condensor had no resistance although andy said it even worked before without that wire connected. abit puzzled, left other guys to look at it while I go back out.
set dampers 20/15 front/rear to further stiffen the handling. tyre still not fully touching yet so reduced to 2.5/2.7bars front/rear.
track feeling better and some sweeping corners getting grippier n faster.
was overtaking a red escort at 7:00 under braking but trail braked too far n had to countersteer, that was an exciting moment for us
times:
1.42
1.32
1.30
1.28
1.27
1.32
1.37
1.43
1.30
1.28
1.25
was running low on fuel so needed refuel and me gf was getting abit queezy (i don't blame her cos I'd feel the same as a passenger, sorry hun
) but she enjoyed herself. went to nearest station for super unl but since twas near 12:30 and track would close for lunch, decided to have a nice lunch at pub with gf.on way back as I arrived andy had just been pushed back into pits. it was working on track till I just arrived
jinx, I'll just pop back out to pub with me lady eh he said it was tweaking his ign coil HT lead that made it work for abit. we check afew things but was baffled again.
so in the mean time to cure it, lets take him out in mine to think it over
times:
1.36
1.31
track felt really good n grippy n can go flat out on most corners. Port Fraid is my fav corner pop in 4th WOT and the 595rsr has enough grip to stick with it before the deep braking into Ushers.
brakes need fixing cos i'm double pumping and at Ushers I sometimes sense the brakes fading or boiling.
caterham spun so track stopped for recovery.
cam didn't rec next good session with andy.
went for a run by myself, adjusted dampers to 15/20 front/rear to see if it makes it more towards oversteer to help turn-in, yup abit more twitchy on fast bends but felt good n fast.
times:
1.23
1.21
1.24
1.23
1.19
1.25
1.22
1.25
1.21
looking back at andys car, he checked loose ign switch, ign coils, wires but nothing worked.
recalled the ign coil/dizzy HT lead connector was broken/damaged off so perhaps wrap it with copper wiring for better contact. it worked
we all decided to go home now since it's late n andy needs to get this working car back to homebase to fix it proper.it's been a fab day out and caught this last wallpaper shot
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h701micra
Deactivated Account
Those photos though
Straight in unit, new king lead out the box, plugged in, fine now. Typical. Simplest of fixes just a shame I had no spare. Should of messaged you to pick up a ht lead whilst you were out. I was working on it last minute until 00:44am that night I'm surprised I got it there at all
Ah well I got plenty of track time in the meantime. Tyre pressure to high on the rear saw me sliding into a few corners just as we started to gain on the other cars it stopped that 2nd time (car 2 ) was when I called it a day rather leave it ready to go home. Plus you owed me passenger rides from cadwell
Next event is a road rally 14th November. Novice navigation. Entry is about £6. Fancy it? You'll need a passenger
Straight in unit, new king lead out the box, plugged in, fine now. Typical. Simplest of fixes just a shame I had no spare. Should of messaged you to pick up a ht lead whilst you were out. I was working on it last minute until 00:44am that night
I'm surprised I got it there at allAh well I got plenty of track time in the meantime. Tyre pressure to high on the rear saw me sliding into a few corners
just as we started to gain on the other cars it stopped that 2nd time (car 2 ) was when I called it a day rather leave it ready to go home. Plus you owed me passenger rides from cadwell Next event is a road rally 14th November. Novice navigation. Entry is about £6. Fancy it? You'll need a passenger
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pollyp
Club Member
I'm busy this week cos of deadlines and tis enough trackdays for the year now tbh cos I can't afford the cost, time and cold winters coming and the cars abit tired.
prioritys back at work.
after blyton I think the gearbox is getting tired cos it now pops out of 5th frequently.
engine torque on all the gear selection cogs ain't keeping it locked in place no more and its only on 5th gear that the stick nudges back/forth during on/off throttle excessively for some reason. it's like as though its not fully slotting into gear.
prioritys back at work.
after blyton I think the gearbox is getting tired cos it now pops out of 5th frequently.
engine torque on all the gear selection cogs ain't keeping it locked in place no more and its only on 5th gear that the stick nudges back/forth during on/off throttle excessively for some reason. it's like as though its not fully slotting into gear.
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Road rally is a 30mph thing, no speed required
No more full on track days for me until next year, christmas to pay for and all that
Only 5th gear seems odd, any rubbers perished?
Got my king lead changed, fresh plugs, autochoke removed for manual, all is well in H701 camp now. Cant believe something so simple would cause so much confusion and stress. Its typical though that I had a new one in my "H701 sinhy's" box and just never got round to putting it on "i'll do it one day" type of thing..
No more full on track days for me until next year, christmas to pay for and all that
Only 5th gear seems odd, any rubbers perished?
Got my king lead changed, fresh plugs, autochoke removed for manual, all is well in H701 camp now. Cant believe something so simple would cause so much confusion and stress. Its typical though that I had a new one in my "H701 sinhy's" box and just never got round to putting it on "i'll do it one day" type of thing..
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pollyp
Club Member
Road rally is a 30mph thing, no speed required
No more full on track days for me until next year, christmas to pay for and all that
Only 5th gear seems odd, any rubbers perished?
Got my king lead changed, fresh plugs, autochoke removed for manual, all is well in H701 camp now. Cant believe something so simple would cause so much confusion and stress. Its typical though that I had a new one in my "H701 sinhy's" box and just never got round to putting it on "i'll do it one day" type of thing..
I prefer high speed circuits.
yea no more trackdays till next year now.
rubber looks fine. in 5th when I apply load, the stick is nudged back alot till it slips out of gear, having to hold it in gear doesn't help.
I have a suspicion that the input shaft bearing is worn, allowing it to sliding sideways alone its axis and since only the 5th selector fork is on that shaft, it only nudges back during 5th gear whilst the other 4 gears are on the stable secondary shaft.
eitherway, this gearbox needs removing once again
drained the engine & gear oil, doesn't look too healthy even though it was fresh few weeks ago. peaking through drain hole could see foam bubbles on the diff ring gear so the anti-foam n other properties have prob degraded? only have 2L new gear oil so order another 5L
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pollyp
Club Member
searching bout 5th gear pop out, find it's either worn slack bearings or worn dog gear teeths.
found a useful guide on sr20 forum
left: new, right: worn
http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-m...ir-5th-gear-pop-out-b13-b14-transmission.html
found a useful guide on sr20 forum
left: new, right: worn
http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-m...ir-5th-gear-pop-out-b13-b14-transmission.html
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pollyp
Club Member
Good to see you going for the things we spoke about last, the extra will aid your alternator clearance too
As for the gearbox it sounds like you could be right
can't go too far down though cos the turbo outlet pipe will foul the oil drain pipe just underneath. braided drain pipe would ideally be replaced cos it's abit frayed.
gonna have to fully disassemble the gearbox n see how much work is needed
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pollyp
Club Member
not worked on car the past few weeks, busy at work, busy at home fixing house n other car and tbh cba cos just tired.
but what little nrg i hav, began unhooking the gearbox
starter and the bellhousing area still has oily signs so the crank or sump seal area is still leaking somehow
been losing coolant since replacing the clutch cable cos I routed it wrong which strained the coolant return hose
and this made it rupture slightly
good thing it didn't let go completely on the track
but what little nrg i hav, began unhooking the gearbox
starter and the bellhousing area still has oily signs so the crank or sump seal area is still leaking somehow
been losing coolant since replacing the clutch cable cos I routed it wrong which strained the coolant return hose
and this made it rupture slightly
good thing it didn't let go completely on the track
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pollyp
Club Member
removed driveshafts n checking the brakes. the red rubber grease worked gr8, guide pins still smooth n slippery.
RH pads worn down abit. dunno if this pad appearance is normal for grooved discs or if I should fit higher temp pads that won't disintegrate as much after afew trackdays.
the LH is the same
RH pads worn down abit. dunno if this pad appearance is normal for grooved discs or if I should fit higher temp pads that won't disintegrate as much after afew trackdays.
the LH is the same
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pollyp
Club Member
tis a good point. the rough patch always appear at the rearward end of the pads which meets the disc first. the first light slam could've chipped a bit off that edge and then the second harder longer braking could've allowed the sharp disc grooves to shread the remaining chipped face off more.
u got that primera MS? cos I think once I repair this gearbox I'll need to upgrade the puny stock MS next
u got that primera MS? cos I think once I repair this gearbox I'll need to upgrade the puny stock MS next
funky2nite
Ex. Club Member
Sorry to be of much bother, was going through the precious bible youve made for the micra community, two thumbs up for that! In this post that I've quoted, I noticed in the fifth image from top, that the yellow 'bush' 'jablo' /packaging sort of thing has broken down to pieces and I found bits of it dangling within the shock plastic cover. what are the symptoms of not having it and is it replaceable?
thanks man!
Ian - Malta
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pollyp
Club Member
thx ian.
the yellow wavy foamy collar is the bump stop.
it's purpose is explained in wiki
yes it's replaceable but I question why it's failed in the first place. as explained above they're not meant for repeated heavy blows else they start to deteriorate n prob break up as in ur case.
the only cause where you'll be constantly hitting/damaging the bumpstop would be if you're either driving too fast over very rough terrain beyond the capability of each suspension strut
and/or the dampers r damaged
and/or the ride height's too low that the dampers r constantly hitting the bumpstops.
funky2nite
Ex. Club Member
Wow that explanation is thw absolute truth on how it currently feels. Ive been running on ventura 13mm springs for like yrs now. I changed the stock springs to 13mm ones and replaced al shocks to genuine ones at the same time with the springs. Also I have all engine mounts needing replacing im presuming since the engine knocks on low gears dunno if that affects the bump stoppers. I ve replaced the outer tierods and found out they were full of play. Changed both wishbones and didnt notice much difference. Still have to tru and vhange the inner tierods since I got lost finding from where they come off last time. Still have the stock springs. I was running on 195 65 15s and those must be the biggest issue with the lowered springs and adding in the potholes. I never tend to be rough over rough terrain. Now ive been running the 15s only at the rear and the stock 13s at the front for the past year and mainly because of the roughness that the micra got too when hitting a bump or anything
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pollyp
Club Member
gearbox removed
same oil splash around the bellhousing
clutch appears fine n dry
clearer view of the misrouted clutch cable pulling the return pipe to one side
ah may have found the cause of the odd rattle at the front end
oily stains under the sensors, perhaps the top cover gasket is leaking?
removed flywheel to assess where this oil leaks coming from
the rear crank seal area appears dry so it's not leaking from this seal
staining on the rear side but hard to tell if it's the sump gasket
but this might be a clear sign. I dunno if it's just residue of oil flung onto the plug from the flywheel or if the plug is actually leaking but looking at the stain pattern to the right of this image, there's strong evidence that plug is leaking, even though it was previously replaced with a new genuine copper washer
flywheel appears fine. clutch still only touching 1/4 - 1/2 of the surface.
I really wanna fit a lighter remachined flat flywheel.
anyone have a 1-piece 1.3 flywheel that I can then get remachined n lightened? andy?
rear is dry with no signs of oil from the rear seal being flicked out
PP looks ok
flywheel side of clutch is ok, again only touching 1/2 the surface
PP side of clutch is fine
measuring its thickness. cos the flywheel is concave, the inner side is 7.77mm while the thinner outer edge is 7.65mm
it was 8mm thick when brand new bout 28000miles n 2.5yrs ago
same oil splash around the bellhousing
clutch appears fine n dry
clearer view of the misrouted clutch cable pulling the return pipe to one side
ah may have found the cause of the odd rattle at the front end
oily stains under the sensors, perhaps the top cover gasket is leaking?
removed flywheel to assess where this oil leaks coming from
the rear crank seal area appears dry so it's not leaking from this seal
staining on the rear side but hard to tell if it's the sump gasket
but this might be a clear sign. I dunno if it's just residue of oil flung onto the plug from the flywheel or if the plug is actually leaking but looking at the stain pattern to the right of this image, there's strong evidence that plug is leaking, even though it was previously replaced with a new genuine copper washer
flywheel appears fine. clutch still only touching 1/4 - 1/2 of the surface.
I really wanna fit a lighter remachined flat flywheel.
anyone have a 1-piece 1.3 flywheel that I can then get remachined n lightened? andy?
rear is dry with no signs of oil from the rear seal being flicked out
PP looks ok
flywheel side of clutch is ok, again only touching 1/2 the surface
PP side of clutch is fine
measuring its thickness. cos the flywheel is concave, the inner side is 7.77mm while the thinner outer edge is 7.65mm
it was 8mm thick when brand new bout 28000miles n 2.5yrs ago
I've got a one piece 1.4 coilpack flywheel you can have if that's any good to you.
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pollyp
Club Member
assess the gearbox
here's 5th gear that kept popping out
removed the selector ring
the chamfered teeth appear abit rough
but check out how beat up the teeth are on the selector. this gear had a rough past of being forced into 5th
but nissan has nicely provided a spare new set of teeth if u just flip it the other way
had a spare old gearbox in the corner, lets compare the two primary shafts.
previously few yrs ago after a trackday, the gearbox began to whine, prob worn input bearing, so I swapped the input shafts from the old gearbox into the current one which stopped the whine.
the bearing on this current shaft still hasn't whined but when I wiggle the input bearings, the current bearing does have abit more play than the old shaft (which I thought had a worn input bearing) so that's abit baffling
look at the messy dog teeths on the current gear. another note to point is that for some reason the splined shaft (that the selector ring slides along) feel sloppy (bout 0.5deg of play) and I can spin the end washer. notice the gap in circle
whereas on the old input shaft the dog teeths are still crisp sharp and the splined selector shaft with end washer are snug tight n doesn't have any play. notice no gap in the circle
clear view of the worn selector in the current gearbox (bottom of the stack) vs the sharper selector from the old gearbox (top of the stack).
another interesting feature is when the selectors fully engaged, the dog teeth on the current gearbox are blanked off at the end (so oil has a harder time getting out the way), while on the older gear, the dog teeths are cut all the way through so oil can escape easily making quick shifts into 5th gear easier
worn teeth (left) vs newer teeth (right)
here's 5th gear that kept popping out
removed the selector ring
the chamfered teeth appear abit rough
but check out how beat up the teeth are on the selector. this gear had a rough past of being forced into 5th
but nissan has nicely provided a spare new set of teeth if u just flip it the other way
had a spare old gearbox in the corner, lets compare the two primary shafts.
previously few yrs ago after a trackday, the gearbox began to whine, prob worn input bearing, so I swapped the input shafts from the old gearbox into the current one which stopped the whine.
the bearing on this current shaft still hasn't whined but when I wiggle the input bearings, the current bearing does have abit more play than the old shaft (which I thought had a worn input bearing) so that's abit baffling
look at the messy dog teeths on the current gear. another note to point is that for some reason the splined shaft (that the selector ring slides along) feel sloppy (bout 0.5deg of play) and I can spin the end washer. notice the gap in circle
whereas on the old input shaft the dog teeths are still crisp sharp and the splined selector shaft with end washer are snug tight n doesn't have any play. notice no gap in the circle
clear view of the worn selector in the current gearbox (bottom of the stack) vs the sharper selector from the old gearbox (top of the stack).
another interesting feature is when the selectors fully engaged, the dog teeth on the current gearbox are blanked off at the end (so oil has a harder time getting out the way), while on the older gear, the dog teeths are cut all the way through so oil can escape easily making quick shifts into 5th gear easier
worn teeth (left) vs newer teeth (right)
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pollyp
Club Member
I dunno if that's compatible with a non-coil 1.3 gearbox?
can you measure its outer dia, inner crankshaft bore dia, depth distance from crank face to clutch face and pics of front & back?
Will do. Let you know tomorrow or Monday.
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pollyp
Club Member
k I'll measure mine up too
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pollyp
Club Member
hmm I just googled/ebay bout the coil pack flywheel,
the CGA3DE 1.4 coilpack engine uses a 123101F705 flywheel and looking at these on ebay, the crank sensor rings at the front while the starter rings at the back
whereas on my 1.3 flywheel, the start rings at the front
so a coilpack flywheel def won't work.
no need to measure em on monday Agent_Sm1th
