SirChris
Educated Bodger
Haalloosss yes ta, I sent out this morning. Will send a text in a bit.
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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
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pollyp
Club Member
mind playing tricks again tday. installed the injectors but was about to fit the vacuum lines when I thought, where the heck are they?
I looked in my parts shelf n all over the garage n house n car and frustratingly nothing. I thought I'd keep all the turbo bits n lines etc together n sure I haven't chucked it out during the recent garage clean up.
since its getting late, decided to try goto stores n buy some lines & t-joints.
halfords was shut so went to local generic store n got some £3 t-hose, then went to b&q to look for any 5mm rubber hose, none.
the only nearest thing was a spool of 4mm thin sprinkler hose, it's too small for the t-hose but figure I could prob heat it and stretch it over the joint but the downside is it costs £11
ouch
so softened the hose n pushed it over the t-joint.
was about to fit em n was just checking the inlet pipe in storage when I suddenly realised Oh hang on there whats this under the stack of stuff?
Oh FFS brain!
whats happened was that when I was having a big garage cleanout n organising stuff, I put all the turbo stuff into a tub then a wooden panel over that and the rest of the car stuff on top and totally forgotten about the tub.
so behold all the turbo stuff including the missing vacuum hoses were still in this tub and I had just wasted all afternoon and £15 on a useless expensive hose
brain showing its age.
rebuilt fuel rail on
removed the stock manifold and the cheap mismatched gaskets had peeled apart n left a residue, good thing I brought the spare gasket off ebay.
scraped the head clean, trimmed & fitted the new stainless studs
turbo on
I looked in my parts shelf n all over the garage n house n car and frustratingly nothing. I thought I'd keep all the turbo bits n lines etc together n sure I haven't chucked it out during the recent garage clean up.
since its getting late, decided to try goto stores n buy some lines & t-joints.
halfords was shut so went to local generic store n got some £3 t-hose, then went to b&q to look for any 5mm rubber hose, none.
the only nearest thing was a spool of 4mm thin sprinkler hose, it's too small for the t-hose but figure I could prob heat it and stretch it over the joint but the downside is it costs £11
ouchso softened the hose n pushed it over the t-joint.
was about to fit em n was just checking the inlet pipe in storage when I suddenly realised Oh hang on there whats this under the stack of stuff?
Oh FFS brain!
whats happened was that when I was having a big garage cleanout n organising stuff, I put all the turbo stuff into a tub then a wooden panel over that and the rest of the car stuff on top and totally forgotten about the tub.
so behold all the turbo stuff including the missing vacuum hoses were still in this tub and I had just wasted all afternoon and £15 on a useless expensive hose
brain showing its age.
rebuilt fuel rail on
removed the stock manifold and the cheap mismatched gaskets had peeled apart n left a residue, good thing I brought the spare gasket off ebay.
scraped the head clean, trimmed & fitted the new stainless studs
turbo on
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
intake, alternator and exhaust on.
the bashed out old decat has a jaggy rough inside so found a 2" pipe to squeeze inside to provide a smooth path
it just about fits but is a tight tolerance
so cut a slot to allow the pipe to be squeezed into the decat
after cutting, it springs back out so squeezed it together in a vice
slot the old cat over it
pipe fully inserted to give a smooth lining
car all assembled
primed oil through the turbo, primed the fresh injectors, uploaded turbo map, started her up.
O2 warmed up but kept saying Rich. I rev to 3k whilst cold but still not learning n staying rich (perhaps it doesn't learn below a certain cold temp), big spray of black wet soot at everything behind the exhaust.
drove out the garage and now it learns and afr goes closed loop, good.
turbo abit sluggish initially cos the oil is still cold n thick. once fully warm n thin it's more responsive.
although the 370cc are naturally quite clicky, it seems abit quieter than before. it doesn't have as much of that cold "piston slap" type noise and runs alot smoother.
when I push it, she only goes to 9psi instead of 10psi? I applied 1.5 turns of preload on the WG arm, perhaps that's too tight n making it open too early? gonna have to access and loosen the arm somehow.
power delivery is smooth n torquey. AFR at 10.2 same as before I think.
at warm prolonged idle I believe she no longer coughs now and sounds much quieter n smooth
needs abit of tweaking but overall I'd say cleaning injectors has improved how she runs
the bashed out old decat has a jaggy rough inside so found a 2" pipe to squeeze inside to provide a smooth path
it just about fits but is a tight tolerance
so cut a slot to allow the pipe to be squeezed into the decat
after cutting, it springs back out so squeezed it together in a vice
slot the old cat over it
pipe fully inserted to give a smooth lining
car all assembled
primed oil through the turbo, primed the fresh injectors, uploaded turbo map, started her up.
O2 warmed up but kept saying Rich. I rev to 3k whilst cold but still not learning n staying rich (perhaps it doesn't learn below a certain cold temp), big spray of black wet soot at everything behind the exhaust.
drove out the garage and now it learns and afr goes closed loop, good.
turbo abit sluggish initially cos the oil is still cold n thick. once fully warm n thin it's more responsive.
although the 370cc are naturally quite clicky, it seems abit quieter than before. it doesn't have as much of that cold "piston slap" type noise and runs alot smoother.
when I push it, she only goes to 9psi instead of 10psi? I applied 1.5 turns of preload on the WG arm, perhaps that's too tight n making it open too early? gonna have to access and loosen the arm somehow.
power delivery is smooth n torquey. AFR at 10.2 same as before I think.
at warm prolonged idle I believe she no longer coughs now and sounds much quieter n smooth
needs abit of tweaking but overall I'd say cleaning injectors has improved how she runs
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
I've tied it to the chassis here and it's pretty secure now
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-112#post-694895
h701micra
Deactivated Account
The circuit is ok but everything else...
They've not resurfaced the outer ring from what I hear
Oh yeah the roads leading up the track are pretty bad, they patched some of the holes but it's rough yeah
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Potholes is an understatement from what I rememberpretty much normal british roads then
be on lookout for potholes there.
I'll be joining you on track at Blyton instead of cadwell, but I'll still make an appearance as pit crew
I may well drive down to Blyton to say hello, may book it... What day 2nd? £99
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pollyp
Club Member
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
h701micra
Deactivated Account
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
ok I've been driving the turbo setup with the cleaned injectors to work and and this is what I noticed:
Strong consistant cold fire up
The cold engine now fires up immediately and willingly.
Quieter cold operation
Previously when setting off during cold start the injectors used to be very clicky loud which I thought was loose piston slap.
Now with cleaned injectors the clicking operation is alot more subtle but much quieter overall and no piston slap noise.
No warm idle coughing
When the engines warmed up, it no longer misfires/cough randomly.
No lean out during cold light acceleration
Previously whenever I accelerate lightly in low gear leaving work whilst the engines still cold within bout 30C the AFR would lean-out badly above 2k and have to either apply more throttle or shift up.
Now the AFR stays very consistant where it should be (13afr during cold enrichment before quickly going closed loop).
Progressive low speed injector cutoff/resume
In traffic, lightly using the throttle crawling along in 1st/2nd gear used to feel like a sudden on/off switch but now the way the injectors cut and resume firing is much more progressive n smooth so less jolting.
Less engine vibration
With all the injectors running up to spec and equally, there is a big reduction in engine vibration. the steering wheel no longer shakes! like mad during idle and the worn brake pedal hardly vibrates or rattles at speed anymore.
happy with all that, thx injectortune.co.uk well worth the £57 service
Strong consistant cold fire up
The cold engine now fires up immediately and willingly.
Quieter cold operation
Previously when setting off during cold start the injectors used to be very clicky loud which I thought was loose piston slap.
Now with cleaned injectors the clicking operation is alot more subtle but much quieter overall and no piston slap noise.
No warm idle coughing
When the engines warmed up, it no longer misfires/cough randomly.
No lean out during cold light acceleration
Previously whenever I accelerate lightly in low gear leaving work whilst the engines still cold within bout 30C the AFR would lean-out badly above 2k and have to either apply more throttle or shift up.
Now the AFR stays very consistant where it should be (13afr during cold enrichment before quickly going closed loop).
Progressive low speed injector cutoff/resume
In traffic, lightly using the throttle crawling along in 1st/2nd gear used to feel like a sudden on/off switch but now the way the injectors cut and resume firing is much more progressive n smooth so less jolting.
Less engine vibration
With all the injectors running up to spec and equally, there is a big reduction in engine vibration. the steering wheel no longer shakes! like mad during idle and the worn brake pedal hardly vibrates or rattles at speed anymore.
happy with all that, thx injectortune.co.uk well worth the £57 service
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pollyp
Club Member
the T2 compressor / T28 turbine reaches 10psi at bout 2800-2900rpm
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
dunno. it came as 10psi and I'd like to keep it at this safe proven level, don't fancy ruining the turbo.
for optimum operating range, I've read it's recommended to look up the compressor chart of the turbo for the sweet spot.
too low and it'll be inefficient, sluggish and under-used.
too high and efficiency plummets and just heats the air with no further benefit causing more issues and wears it out faster.
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
I recalled from this video that I previously applied 3 turns of WG preload to reach 10psi
whereas recently I only applied 1.5 turns cos didn't remember the setting and so only getting 9psi.
so I'll have to access the tight spot behind the turbo (or prob take it out) and readjust to 3 turns.
also found this helpful video for adjusting the WG
whereas recently I only applied 1.5 turns cos didn't remember the setting and so only getting 9psi.
so I'll have to access the tight spot behind the turbo (or prob take it out) and readjust to 3 turns.
also found this helpful video for adjusting the WG
SirChris
Educated Bodger
This sound like the performance I want. Safe levels at around 10psi
I thought you were running a T25 Paul?
SirChris
Educated Bodger
I thought it was a t2/25 hybrid to start but apparently my assumptions... Were my biggest mistake.
h701micra
Deactivated Account
I was under the impression all T28s were bolted not hose clamped unless they're above 60trim
h701micra
Deactivated Account
We're very sad people
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
clutch felt abit stiff n resistive, found the big nut spacer I put on the end slips offset and making the cable rub on the side
so cut an end off an old socket to fit in the gap between the cable end and the support mount to take up the slack and keep it centered & straight. also removed the pedal spring but tbh the clutch is still the same weight but just feels abit squidgey cos the pedal bracket is still flexing alot
another issue on the way home, intermittant wiper stopped working and the wiper just stops mid way. removed the motor
dremelled the rivets off and there's the problem. the outer contact finger has totally worn out till it lost connection so the controller had no idea when to stop
bent the finger abit closer as a temp fix, need to replace it.
to refit the cover, nissan conveniently provided a small hole next to the rivets to be drilled n tapped
fitted and all working again.
looked on ebay and ordered a used motor off a facelift for £7.50 delivered
so cut an end off an old socket to fit in the gap between the cable end and the support mount to take up the slack and keep it centered & straight. also removed the pedal spring but tbh the clutch is still the same weight but just feels abit squidgey cos the pedal bracket is still flexing alot
another issue on the way home, intermittant wiper stopped working and the wiper just stops mid way. removed the motor
dremelled the rivets off and there's the problem. the outer contact finger has totally worn out till it lost connection so the controller had no idea when to stop
bent the finger abit closer as a temp fix, need to replace it.
to refit the cover, nissan conveniently provided a small hole next to the rivets to be drilled n tapped
fitted and all working again.
looked on ebay and ordered a used motor off a facelift for £7.50 delivered
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
a-ha I think I've found my turbo off this website.
tis a turbo technics stage 1 T2 turbo for a renault 5 GT for £367
http://www.cgbmotorsport.net/turbo-technics-stage-1-t2-turbo-996-p.asp
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pollyp
Club Member
ooh the website also sells a normal recirc BOV for £28
http://www.cgbmotorsport.net/dump-valve-recirculating-black-1261-p.asp
and a group A recirc BOV for £28
http://www.cgbmotorsport.net/dump-valve-grp-a-recirculating-silver-1262-p.asp
for same price dunno what the difference are other than group A seems easier to take apart for swapping springs
http://www.cgbmotorsport.net/dump-valve-recirculating-black-1261-p.asp
and a group A recirc BOV for £28
http://www.cgbmotorsport.net/dump-valve-grp-a-recirculating-silver-1262-p.asp
for same price dunno what the difference are other than group A seems easier to take apart for swapping springs
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pollyp
Club Member
or it could be a standard turbo technics T2 turbo (£340) which tbh appears to be the closest match looking at the compressor housing feature and the actuator bracket
http://www.cgbmotorsport.net/turbo-technics-standard-t2-turbo--actuator-868-p.asp
http://www.cgbmotorsport.net/turbo-technics-standard-t2-turbo--actuator-868-p.asp
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Didn't realise how different the T2 exhaust flange was to a T28... why not make them all the same bolt pattern :/
Either way Paul.. your turbo works well
Also on the pedals. I have an interesting development that may or may not have some physical form during your visit you can ponder over
Either way Paul.. your turbo works well
Also on the pedals. I have an interesting development that may or may not have some physical form during your visit you can ponder over
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
Didn't realise how different the T2 exhaust flange was to a T28... why not make them all the same bolt pattern :/
Either way Paul.. your turbo works well
Also on the pedals. I have an interesting development that may or may not have some physical form during your visit you can ponder over
yup turbo works for now, tis good to finally find an affordable source for a new fresh turbo if it decided to fail or I felt like impulse buying once income improves
ooh always looking forward to ur surprises when I pop over.
I just brought afew things off chris recently while he's breaking his 4 k11, including all the pedals, non-abs brake servo & pipes, ht leads, bonnet hinge & hub/strut nuts
according to alexias post it may snow in Nov? it better not during our trackday although it's getting chilly now :/
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pollyp
Club Member
found my turbo spec.
remember my actuator plate said turbo technics part # S116
and on their website its a S116 Renault 5 GT Turbo Stage 1
http://www.turbotechnics.com/turbo/s116.htm
and their pdf catalogue says
Renault 5 GT turbo stage 1 hybrid
1987-1990
T2 with 60 trim / 0.47
rated 130-150bhp (so I'm running at it's limit)
watercooled
remember my actuator plate said turbo technics part # S116
and on their website its a S116 Renault 5 GT Turbo Stage 1
http://www.turbotechnics.com/turbo/s116.htm
and their pdf catalogue says
Renault 5 GT turbo stage 1 hybrid
1987-1990
T2 with 60 trim / 0.47
rated 130-150bhp (so I'm running at it's limit)
watercooled
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SirChris
Educated Bodger
Lol my t2 is still boosting with 3mm+- play on the shaft... I call my turbo... "The Grenade"found my turbo spec.
remember my actuator plate said turbo technics part # S116
and on their website its a S116 Renault 5 GT Turbo Stage 1
http://www.turbotechnics.com/turbo/s116.htm
View attachment 35913
and their pdf catalogue says
Renault 5 GT turbo stage 1 hybrid
1987-1990
T2 with 60 trim / 0.47
rated 130-150bhp (so I'm running at it's limit)
watercooled
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Impulse buys are my weak pointyup turbo works for now, tis good to finally find an affordable source for a new fresh turbo if it decided to fail or I felt like impulse buying once income improves
ooh always looking forward to ur surprises when I pop over.
I just brought afew things off chris recently while he's breaking his 4 k11, including all the pedals, non-abs brake servo & pipes, ht leads, bonnet hinge & hub/strut nuts
according to alexias post it may snow in Nov? it better not during our trackday although it's getting chilly now :/
Hopefully I have something mocked up for you to look at. Like you say there's always something here
Yes apparently so. And heavy snowfall at that but people have noticed its near on identical released the same day as last year
h701micra
Deactivated Account
It would indeed, but fingers crossed it doesnt snow
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pollyp
Club Member
poor blades
btw i saw a FB vid recently of the moment ur gearbox was destroyed. what happened?
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pollyp
Club Member
Impulse buys are my weak point
Hopefully I have something mocked up for you to look at. Like you say there's always something here
Yes apparently so. And heavy snowfall at that but people have noticed its near on identical released the same day as last year
see ya on saturday with new tyres.
bah I was hoping to get to push this new stronger setup this year on a dry hot track. goodbye summer
she had a chance at cadwell but literally "blew it" under pressure (getit
)
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pollyp
Club Member
received new bits from chris tday. thanks chris
non ABS servo. question, does anyone know how to seperate the fluid tank from the MS?
newer pedals
bonnet hinges to replace the current nut & bolt
new leads. compared the resistances with the old one: (cyl #1, #2, #3, #4)
old set: 2.17 2.42 3.26 3.43ohms
new set: 2.22 2.50 3.35 3.62ohms
brake lines
only have one hub/strut nut bolt, forgot to mention I needed all 4 nuts but meh, ain't needed yet.
non ABS servo. question, does anyone know how to seperate the fluid tank from the MS?
newer pedals
bonnet hinges to replace the current nut & bolt
new leads. compared the resistances with the old one: (cyl #1, #2, #3, #4)
old set: 2.17 2.42 3.26 3.43ohms
new set: 2.22 2.50 3.35 3.62ohms
brake lines
only have one hub/strut nut bolt, forgot to mention I needed all 4 nuts but meh, ain't needed yet.
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
As far as I know you just pull the reservoir off the MS Paul
just a push fit?
h701micra
Deactivated Account
There's always next year, even the refresh of the injectors is a step in the right direction ready for next years summersee ya on saturday with new tyres.
bah I was hoping to get to push this new stronger setup this year on a dry hot track. goodbye summer
she had a chance at cadwell but literally "blew it" under pressure (getit
I'll be here Saturday, ready n waiting, see what we can and cant do
