Please help me learn ...

pollyp said:
test it urself. jack up the wheels and rock the wheel vertically & horizontally to check for loose/worn joints & wheel bearings. spin em, if they resist turning quite abit then the brakes could be binding.

remove the front calipers n check the guide pins slide in out with ease (seized pins also cause uneven pad wear), remove the pads off the sprung sliders (if they resist sliding off, dirt/rust maybe sticking em on so clean the sliders n pad edges), spin the disc/hub without the pads to check the bearings not seized, finally push the front caliper piston in & out (not too far out and keep eye on the fluid reservoir) several times to free up a stuck piston seal (very common)
Click to expand...

Very many thanks Pollyp,

I have tested the passenger side tyre/wheel by jacking it up. The wheel is not moving freely. When turning by hand there is a bit catch at one point. removed the wheel but could not removed the clippers. I think I can not do it due to the fact that I don't have lots of tools specially clippers for clipping the brake fluid hose.

The MOT advisory items are as follows:

001 Windscreen has damage to an area less than a 10mm circle within zone 'A' (8.3.1a)
002 Offside Front Front constant velocity joint gaiter damaged, but preventing the ingress of dirt (2.5.C.1a)
003 Nearside Front inner Track rod end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)
004 Offside Front inner & outer Track rod end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)
005 Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
006 Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
007 Nearside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage has slight play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)
008 Nearside inner sill Body has slight corrosion (6.1.B.2)
009 Offside inner sill Body has slight corrosion (6.1.B.2)

I have cheked the previous MOT as well it seems I was failed and the reason are as follows:

Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate
Offside outer Front constant velocity joint gaiter split (2.5.C.1a)
Offside Front Front brake binding (3.7.A.2a)
Offside Front Brake pad(s) less than 1.5 mm thick (3.5.1g)
Nearside Front Suspension arm locating pin locking device missing (2.4.G.3b)

The las MOT was done at West Way Nissan in Conventry.

Any idea why the front brake is doing it almost regulary!?

Please advise me on which one of MOT note I should repair it urgently.

All advice are really appreciated.

Regards
 
don't need to clamp the flexi hose, actually dont clamp any hoses cos it can permenantly deform/damage/restrict the inner hose imo

just unbolt the caliper from the guide pins, slip off and hang it up from say the coil springs with abit of wire/ziptie/string prevent straining the flexi hose

then continue inspecting/clean the brake bits.

pads n piston tend to seize due to corrosion & dirt from the brakes working environment.
 
Update:

Took the car to garage today and they guy removed jacked up and check booth wheels. He was saying that the driver side Track rod needs replaceing. The passenger side wheel, he said was jammed, and he removed the wheel and check the claiper (openin/removing it) and told it gone and needs replacing!

Since today was Saturday and the shop next door did not have the parts he put the wheels back and I took the car to body work garage. The guy there put it on ... and cleaned/rmoved the corrosion and found it was verey deep and made. He removed all the effected areas and wilded and painted. He done a realy nice job.

Regards.
 
pollyp said:
don't need to clamp the flexi hose, actually dont clamp any hoses cos it can permenantly deform/damage/restrict the inner hose imo

just unbolt the caliper from the guide pins, slip off and hang it up from say the coil springs with abit of wire/ziptie/string prevent straining the flexi hose

then continue inspecting/clean the brake bits.

pads n piston tend to seize due to corrosion & dirt from the brakes working environment.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.

I will try it Sunday if the whether allows.

However, if it did work, can I replace the clipers from my other micra which is 1.3 GX 1998? I crashed that one and still not sold it and not repaired it yet. Don't know if its worth repairing. A garage guy offered £150 for it. The tank is ful of petrol.

Regards
 
pollyp said:
if the two calipers fit the same should be fine
Click to expand...
Thanks pollyp,

I will try to have a look what is happening.

Couple of questions regarding two advisory notes:

003 Nearside Front inner Track rod end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)
004 Offside Front inner & outer Track rod end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)

Shal I replace the Track rod ends only or the Track rod as well?
The garage guy was saying only one side needs changing. Is it true or sha I change both side i.e near-side and off-side.

Regards
 
U could either replace both inner rod joints (£25 each) and an outer joint (£15) or prob cheaper n easier to replace the whole rack with a used one from £30
 
pollyp said:
U could either replace both inner rod joints (£25 each) and an outer joint (£15) or prob cheaper n easier to replace the whole rack with a used one from £30
Click to expand...

Thanks for information.

Do you mean used one from scrapyards? Will it be okay/reliable/

Regards
 
pollyp said:
if the two calipers fit the same should be fine
Click to expand...

update:

With the help of a friend (he actually did most of the work) opened the caliper and it was stack. Opened caliper from my other car which is GX 1.3 98 plate and it did fit. Fitted the clipper and friend took it a quick spin and he was saying it is okay, but the brake light is ON. Did not check with code reader yet and will do that in morning.

What might be the problem?
Will the code reader help?

Regards
 
PollyP,

How to open the door actuator?
Can I use the actuator from my old car for this one?

The Hayns manual is not very clear for models with central/remote locking. There are three different parts. 1 the part you put key in, 2 the part which actually locks and there is anotherr part which is connected with wires.

Regards
 
Hazara said:
PollyP,

How to open the door actuator?
Can I use the actuator from my old car for this one?

The Hayns manual is not very clear for models with central/remote locking. There are three different parts. 1 the part you put key in, 2 the part which actually locks and there is anotherr part which is connected with wires.

Regards
Click to expand...

u mean how to take out the actuator? how the actuator operates?

i think i managed to swap the entire loom between my 93 and 98 slx, leaving their door lock assembly alone, both with c/l same actuators and worked fine.

just follow haynes manual and common sense when disassembling
 
pollyp said:
yea bout same price as when i got mine
Click to expand...
I have ordered 2 of those.

An other question: Do I have to change the folowing from the advisory note? Or shal wait for a while and keep an eye on them? Will there be any secondary damage if I don't change it now?

002 Offside Front Front constant velocity joint gaiter damaged, but preventing the ingress of dirt (2.5.C.1a)
005 Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
006 Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
007 Nearside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage has slight play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2)

Regards
 
split CV boot, I'd change soon as you can cos it'll be spraying a greasy mess all over the struts, lower arm, alloy till its all gone and then the dry CV begins to wear fast n knock n end up having to replace it.

front swaybar to susp arm linkage bush, long as its intact n not worn slack badly, it's minor

rear swaybar end linkage joint, will just give an annoying knocking noise
 
pollyp said:
split CV boot, I'd change soon as you can cos it'll be spraying a greasy mess all over the struts, lower arm, alloy till its all gone and then the dry CV begins to wear fast n knock n end up having to replace it.

front swaybar to susp arm linkage bush, long as its intact n not worn slack badly, it's minor

rear swaybar end linkage joint, will just give an annoying knocking noise
Click to expand...

Thanks pollyp.

I found this CV boot kit on ebay. Is it okay/legit? Do you think will it work?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-MI...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20abe6b5a1.

Regards
 
pollyp said:
just the worn one will do. can replace a pair if ya want but not essential
Click to expand...
Thanks pollyp.

I found these on ebay ranging from £6 to 29.99. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?Mo...0on%20Car=Rear&Make=Nissan&_nkw=anti+roll+bar

An other factor which made even more confused is the varity of manufacturers. will the cheap one work?
Does it matter whic manufacturer? i.e d Link, FAI, Pearl, Redline,Delphi and Firstline. Delphi is the most expensive one!

This one offeres 12 months warranty and claims to be manufactured by Nissan http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Axle...r+Make:Nissan|Model:Micra&hash=item5898c0e7e9.

Regards
 
they all do the same job.
maybe cheap ones are less durable n start knocking sooner? but imo from £6 i'd just get the cheap one n see how it goes. DONt get ripped by teh £25 pair, thats silly

btw if the front swarbar linkage rod needs replacing, I just used a length of threaded bar n few nuts, does the same job.
 
pollyp said:
they all do the same job.
maybe cheap ones are less durable n start knocking sooner? but imo from £6 i'd just get the cheap one n see how it goes. DONt get ripped by teh £25 pair, thats silly

btw if the front swarbar linkage rod needs replacing, I just used a length of threaded bar n few nuts, does the same job.
Click to expand...
Very many thanks.

The fron sway bar does not need replacing (i think), based on the MOT advisory note, only the read one has "slight play in a ball joint ". I thougt I have to change it incase it might do more damage elsewhere.

From the front "inner & outer Track rod end ball joint has slight play" . Will replacing the track/tie rod end cure it?

regards
 
replacing the ends may fix 1/2 the amount of play but if the inner joints are also worn you'd have to weigh up if its worth the time & money to replace all the joints or just replace the whole rack in one go.

here's a helpful vid for diagnosing a duff cat btw
 
pollyp said:
replacing the ends may fix 1/2 the amount of play but if the inner joints are also worn you'd have to weigh up if its worth the time & money to replace all the joints or just replace the whole rack in one go.

here's a helpful vid for diagnosing a duff cat btw
Click to expand...


Very many thanks for the advise and a very informative video link. Merry Christmas.

What is the exact name for the whole part to look for on the internet?
Is it simply rack? or steering rack?

I found this one (steering rack) which is realy expensive: http://www.eurocarparts.com/steering-rack-and-steering-mount

And this one (inner tie rod) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inner-Tie...|Model:Micra|Plat_Gen:K11&hash=item337111df03

Is 15w40 okay for my car or shall I use 10w40?

Regards
 
Hazara said:
Very many thanks for the advise and a very informative video link. Merry Christmas.

What is the exact name for the whole part to look for on the internet?
Is it simply rack? or steering rack?

I found this one (steering rack) which is realy expensive: http://www.eurocarparts.com/steering-rack-and-steering-mount

And this one (inner tie rod) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inner-Tie-Rod-Front-Left-or-Right-Inner-NISSAN-MICRA-II-1992-2003-QR1849S-/220940328707?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car Make:Nissan|Model:Micra|Plat_Gen:K11&hash=item337111df03

Is 15w40 okay for my car or shall I use 10w40?

Regards
Click to expand...

most prob called steering rack

cheapest is used racks on ebay from £25

normally 10w40 is suggested for normal operating engines. 15w40 is a sort if high milage/worn engine alternative (ie if the rings n bearings r worn looser n losing/burning the thin 10w40 oil, then the thicker 15w40 may reduce the consumption to a point)
 

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