Ple help: K11 1.0 auto (2000) = jammed ignition barrell

[-SS-]

Hi guys,

My trusty little Micra has an issue with the ignition barrell. I believe its the barrell as both keys present the same problem.

If you look at the pic below, you will see letters etched on the barrell. If I take the key out at point S, when I put it back in, it simply won't turn at all right the way round and start the car. However, if I take the key out at point A (pic further down, you can just make it out), there are no issues, it will start.





The only way to turn the car on again if you took the key out at point S is to take a hammer and a socket and put the socket on the face of the ignition barrell and give it ONE tap, then immediately put the key in, it will turn no problem, all the way.

Unless I am wrong, the solution I guess is to change the lock barrell? Anybody care to advise on whether its an expensive job? Can I use an ignition from a breaker's yard? I don't mind having 2 sets of keys.

Other idea I was thinking is maybe to manufacture a crude switch so I don't actually have to stick the key in the ignition, I can just hold it up to the immobiliser box (I am guessing that's the Siemens marked small black box) and just tap the switch to start the car? Or maybe I can disable NATS and get any old Micra barrell and go down that route?

Any thoughts or pointers appreciated!

 

[frank]

have you tried some oil in the keyhole ss ?

 

[-SS-]

Evening Frank, yes, I injected both 3-in-1 oil using a small syringe into the lock and also followed up with some GT85...makes no difference, lock is still jammed is at point S, but is fine if at the 9 o'clock position when I take the key out at A...

I just looked on eBay and saw this lot:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Mi...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

To me it looks like a lot of hassle, need to swap over ECU too if I get a barrel from a breaker. Any way to disable NATS so that I can just swap barrels and that's it, or must I absolutely pair replacement barrell with matching ECU?

 

[Belly93]

if you change just the metal barrel you dont need to play with nats as the small black reciever box unbolts from the ignition barrel

 

[-SS-]

if you change just the metal barrel you dont need to play with nats as the small black reciever box unbolts from the ignition barrel

So I can just change the barrel and as long as I also change the small black immobiliser box with matching one, I don't need to worry about ECU, is that right?

Also, just read this somewhere, doh!

"Whatever you do, don't lubricate the lock barrel. As the lock and key wear, metal filings can collect inside the lock. They are designed to be self lubricating (brass inside). If you add a spot of oil or WD40 you risk the metal filings being drawn up inside the lock and causing it to wear. Also, because the main starter feed works off the switch it can start to smoke if oil gets into it!"

I poured quite a bit of oil in there! Doh!

 

[frank]

adam means you can change just the barrel ss, but you would need to swap the keychips over tho

 

[-SS-]

Ok in that case I will get the eBay item above and swap over the locks. With regards to changing the transponder chips inside the key, it's the little red or blue squares on the side of the key that I need to pick out and swap over, is that right?

 

[frank]

Ok in that case I will get the eBay item above and swap over the locks. With regards to changing the transponder chips inside the key, it's the little red or blue squares on the side of the key that I need to pick out and swap over, is that right?

yes, there is a tiny little rfid thingy under the red/blue insert mate that ebay kit looks like the earlier 4 wire antenna eh

 

[-SS-]

Morning Frank!

Good point, it's for an earlier Micra, mine is a 2000/01 plate.

Interestingly, on another forum where I mentioned my issue, a poster chipped in with this piece of advice:

"I have worked on several of the newer shape Micra's from reg 51 plate onwards. They have an ignition problem and its the black ignition switch on the rear of the barrel that ceases up and jams. They're fiddly but almost ALLWAYS fixes the problem. The only way we found was to replace the black ignition switch, I took one to pieces before and its full of springs and contacts that jump all over the place when you open it up. You could try taking it off and putting some grease in it and work it to see if it frees it off, failing that then a brand new replacement for the newer model cost us £45
Once the black ignition switch is removed the barrel should turn freely with the key fitted..."

Based on that, I am wondering if I can simply get the rear bit for the ignition barrell (see highlighted part in red square, attached to the barrell) and that means I can leave everything else as is...



Opinion on tackling the problem that way?

 

[frank]

does yours have just 1 screw holding it on ss ? the facelift k11 wirings are quite different (97 one pictured)

 

[-SS-]

I will go to the car now and double check, but i think the answer is yes...will confirm in 10 mins

 

[-SS-]

Looks similarish, but I will source from a 2001 car I think just to be safe...

 

[-SS-]

Ok so I spoke with Ed at Fusion just now. I think the plan will be as follows...

1. Get replacement barrel with key + Siemens immobiliser box thingy
2. See if we can simply replace the barrel and keep original immobiliser box + attach original key on inside of trim next to transponder so car always thinks original key is being presented to it for use
3. Cut a regular key without transponder and use in the same way

That's the plan. Once I have all the bits, I will take it down to Fusion for them to sort