The latest in the "How long SHOULD it take..." series. I know they're FUBAR because of the scrunching noise I get from the rear if I have to brake really hard. Any pointers/Tips/Things to NOT do?
Okay, now how long SHOULD it take to do Rear Brake Shoes?
- Thread starter Kaptain Klang
- Start date
pollyp
Club Member
- park on level road, select 1st gear, chock front wheels and release handbrake (0:10)
- loosen rear wheel nuts (0:30)
- jack up rear axle onto axle stands (1:00)
- remove back wheels (0:30)
- lift the handbrake 1 click and loosen the cable end nut till its right at the tip (1:00)
- prod a screwdriver through the grometed hole at the back of the drumbrake to release the handbrake lever stop plate mechanism and fully retract the shoes to enable the drum to be removed. pull drum off. (0:10)
- removing the hub makes access alot easier. knock the grease cap off gradually with chisel & hammer. remove split pin and undo the very tight hub nut with socket & long breaker bar. remove hub (1:00)
- unhook the lower spring (0:10)
- now carefully remove the spring loaded brake shoe retainer pins, don't lose em (0:30)
- unhook and remove the shoe from the bottom groove of the backing plate that it pivots on (0:10)
- unhook the cable from the handbrake lever on the shoe (0:10)
- check the shoe thickness and replace if needed (1:00)
- always disassemble the self adjuster, clean the threads with brake cleaner/rag, regrease then screw the self adjuster ratchet nut all the way in (5:00)
- hook the handbrake cable onto the handbrake lever on the shoe (0:10)
- refit the self adjuster mechanism & the main return spring onto the two shoes (1:00)
- hook the top of the shoes onto the drum pistons (0:10)
- hook the bottom of the shoes onto the backing plate grooves (0:10)
- refit the lower tension spring onto the shoes (0:10)
- while pulling the shoes handbrake lever forward to reveal an open hole in the shoe frame, pop in the handbrake lever stop plate (0:30)
- reinstall the spring loaded brake shoe retaining pins (very frustrating and requires patience) (5:00)
- reinstall hub and torque upto 221Nm then install new split pin (0:30)
- refit drum & wheels (1:00)
- put the gromet back in the handbrake lever stop plate access hole in the backing plate (0:10)
- retighten the handbrake cable nut end until there's no slack upon the 1st click (1:00)
- now to setup the self adjuster that we had regreased and reset, smoothly pull the handbrake up & down repeatedly. you hear the self adjuster ratchet mechanism click away during each pull. keep pulling up & down until the ratchet stops clicking then the mechanism is set so the shoes are resting very close to the drums. (5:00)
- adjust the handbrake cable end nut until the drums starts to grip after 1 click and is fully engaged after 6-8 clicks (0:30)
- lower car back down & torque nuts (1:00)
OP
OP
Is that pinned anywhere? If not it should be. Thanks.
