new issue K10 not starting

C

Charlotte001

Ex. Club Member
Ok I've now got another issue The car is not starting, Yesterday it was fine starting and idling ok a little lumpy. Valve Clearances done then idled evenly. This morning she fired up lost all fuel pressure refilled fired up tried to move in gear engine cuts out, then fired up ok soon as ingear dead, now she's not firing at all.

One major concern I have is the coil is getting hot.

someone must know something I don't about this engine its the K10 M10 Auto 998cc I'm starting to think when the head quit it's cracked one of the bores.

Charlotte Getting really tense now
 
Even if you had cracked a bore it would still run, unless it caused it to seize. You may have the low voltage wires to the coil on the wrong way round, but it should still run acceptably. I would look at things associated with the coil, check your points again. I would also re torque the head and re check the valve clearances.
 
Done all that. Only thing I'm finding is the coil is getting extremely hot guessing it's arcing between the two windings. I'm going to retorque the head bolts again even though they've been checked twice at 69nm. Valves have been done 25 inlet 30 exhaust when hot. Now yesterday it ran ok until we put a load through it ie went into D or R in the box then same thing. It's not engine related I've had that checked. It's definately electrical.

Car has had a replacement fuel pump because there was no fuel in the float chamber now the battery is dead so can't recheck till the morning.

Charlotte

Remind me the blue wire from the _ of the coil goes to the lower socket on the dizzy(conecting to the condensor and points (my condensor is inside the dissy and not outside) and the black and red (seems to be an earth or a sender) goes to the upper socket. The white and black wire (thick one) goes to + on the coil. In the Haynes manual there are both colours to both sockets (on in the ignition pages and one in the wire diagrams so which is correct)

I was starting to think my alarm/imobiliser went on the wonk switching everything off, however, this has now been remove so it's not the problem

Will keep you upto date on what's happening
 
are the points operating correctly? Also is the inibitor switch working properly? The clutch/s in the auto box could of gone and because of the low power of the engine i cant move the car before the engine stalls

Ryan.
 
K10 not starting well it is now

The car is starting at least, and can sit in either D or R until the fuel runs out only issue now is she won't drive !!! (getting really tense now) I don't have the facilities to strip the auto box and nothing on the autobox was touched when the engine was rebuilt. It's as though the fuel pump suddenly stops pumping or the electrics quit under load and only under load, the result is the engine stops but will start instantly so it's now not pressure but either fuel or electrics. I am no mechanic I just rebuild engines and know the basic points of electrics, also don't have the necessary equipment or metering units to run a thorough test as required. I could always call the AA out to see what they think.

Charlotte
 
There is definitely something up electrical causing the coil to get hot, i'm not familiar with the auto cars, is there just the usual wires on the coil? ie HT + and - and the supressor thingy? Or does the auto box take any sort of signal to reference gear changes? Do you have a tachometer fitted? How are the revs lifted when a gear is selected? is there a solonoid on the throttle? I have a few suggestions, i know your tired of checking things, but...

Did you refill the box with oil?
did the mechanic at any point connect the fuel lines the wrong way?
Did you check the points?
Is the fuel actually running out? check the sight glass.
 
there are two wires from the coil blue, Black and Red. The autobox is purely mechanical. The fuel lines were on the wrong way round so now resolved. the points are new.

The car is now running just! The tappets are set so that bit is quiet. The auto box wasn't touched so it's still goes it's orginal fluid in it.

The car is very even when in Neutral or Park also in Drive reverse or any other gears it's fine stationary but when I drive the car it stutters and stalls but will restart instantly so I'm thinking the coil is defunct also the cap is going to be replaced the points are new along with condensor which is inside my dissy not outside. Keep the suggestions coming plz

Charlotte
 
Check the float level in the sight glass, if the pump was connected backwards the force can bend the level tab. does the car rev ok in neutral?
 
its just stalling under load, either fuel starvation or VERY WEAK spark.
 
I'm thinking that now how to cure it? I've found the fuel mix screw on the carb just need to know which way to turn it (it's that irritating one behind the spring cap) is it clockwise to richen and counter clock wise to weaken or the other way round ?

I've got a new set of points and condensor to fit just concerned that the haynes is saying the condensor sits outside the dissy case where mine is inside the case (I have the dissy with the two screws not the clips to hold the cap on) Which way is correct does the condensor go outside the casing or inside?

I've tested the coil and the readings are within specs although the idle speed isn't stable, I'm not sure if that's my meter or the coil.

Charlotte

Update time: I've replaced the condensor and points now the coil isn't getting as hot. I've looked at the fuel and have noticed the fuel being pumped in the engine, under the choke flap isn't going in smoothly as I'd expect but very roughly not a good spray pattern either.

Will be changing the coil soon though. Annoyingly enough it still seems that one of the valves isn't adjusted correctly even though I know they are, I can hear at least one rattling so I have to readjust them again.

Charlotte
 
Going off on a tangent ...sorry

Hot coil to me suggests that there is a DC component going through it...I will think about this som more..but in the meantime...:

Ive read through the notes as if it were a manual but I cant seem to pin it down :)-()

Im not an auto expert but IIR there are other devices on the auto that the manual; doesnt have.....dashpot/antistall et al

and I think these rely on a good vacuum to work properly...perhaps there is either a leaking diaphragm in one of these or there is a vacuum leas else where...

do you have facillity to check your vacuum?



EDIT (hot coil): Also check/change the condensor across the alternator if one is fitted.

Also Check that the dwell time on your points isnt sitting too long in the closed position

Can you measure your battery voltage while idling in neutral then monitor it while you shift into drive? please post the results
 
Personally if it has points they should be dumped in favour of elec ignition. all these (ignition) problems will go then.
 
AMY said:
Check the float level in the sight glass, if the pump was connected backwards the force can bend the level tab. does the car rev ok in neutral?
Click to expand...

I have done this before, and it was be bent. Thanks for that advice before amy. By the way Matt, the car is running great (wink wink). Email when ya get a chance. I no longer have your number.
 
sounds like its to do with the auto box. is the cable that goes from the carb throttle lever to the box in place and adjusted correctly?

Ryan.
 

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