need gearbox or clutxh help guys
- Thread starter k11john
- Start date
Ok from the bottom of speedo cable so there is no oil from bottom speedo to top speedo. It's about 35mm gap
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pollyp
Club Member
u can pour the old gear oil back into the gearbox (long as there's no dirt or grit in it) to keep it lubed for now but ain't essential since ur only idling with no load & checking the clutch operation.
tis only after the clutch & gearbox issue is finally resolved would I then consider refilling with new oil.
wait, so when u poked the dipstick down the hole till it reached the bottom, read the oil level and there was absolutely zero oil marks on the stick = zero oil??
looks like the longer one's for post-1998 facelift and the shorter one's for pre-facelift upto 1998.
what year's urs?
pollyp
Club Member
New clutch cable is here so will need to put starter motor back now.
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jeez that's lightening quick, do you live right next door to ur local parts store?
pollyp
Club Member
noo not through the starter motor hole, thats the clutch bellhousing and the worst thing u could do
pour it into the gearbox via the speedo hole after u removed the speedo pinion unit, just like when u were checking the gear oil level. a funnel & long pipe will help
Yea 5mins away from my house.jeez that's lightening quick, do you live right next door to ur local parts store?
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pollyp
Club Member
all the way down the hole? is the car sitting on level floor on all 4 wheels?
actually could u see oil looking down the big hole?
Not all the way down the hole. It was when I took the gear oil so the car is steep so will take a pic now.
I don't see oil looking down the big hole.
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pollyp
Club Member
thinkk the instructions should be rephrased..
u let the dipstick or any long stick drop down into the speedo hole freely till it hits the bottom of the case, then take it out and measure the oil level from dipstick tip to the marked oil level.
and yea all oil level measuring should be when car is level n engine cold
pollyp
Club Member
imo yea I would
It was levelled and also haven't start her since yesterday
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pollyp
Club Member
This rubber tube wasn't connected, so I will need to chop the bottom part which is split.after that I will reconnect it.
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pollyp
Club Member
ah the fact that it's getting tighter/harder to turn as ur screwing the beercap up the cable compared to the looser old cable, which could've been stretched, is a good sign. u don't have to tighten it up REALLY tight till ur fingers hurt, just as much as u can, recheck bite and readjust till reverse no longer crunches. a dab of lube on the cable threads will make it abit easier.
that'll prob be the source of the leak
pollyp
Club Member
to reduce friction so that u can further tighten the beercap, fully loosen the adjuster, try smearing some grease along the threads and the back of the beercap where it'll be sliding against the clutch arm bracket then try tightening it. just like trying to open a pickled jar, using a cloth to grab the beercap may help cusion and improve grip.
you check the clutch bite point just like when u first learnt to drive.
pedal fully down, select gear, slowly raise the pedal until it begins to drive/move the wheels or the revs begin to dip.
bite point just means the clutch is beginning to transition from disengaged to engaged.
to select a gear requires abit more pedal/cable travel for the clutch to be fully disengage.
compared to ultra-light modern hydraulic clutches, the old cable & fork operated clutches in these type of cars will be slightly heavier but if this is a standard clutch with standard pressure plate and working smoothly it shouldn't require tons of effort to push, unless u begin running some heavy-duty pressure plate like on mine.
now I'm assuming you've driven this micra or this type of micra before to know how it should feel and how medium-heavy it should weigh.
plotting pedal force vs pedal travel it should feel like this. ur clutch pedal has a tension return spring (red curve)
if it feels really really stiff & heavy, stop before u snap the bracket. something in the clutch is really wrong n worth checking out.
you check the clutch bite point just like when u first learnt to drive.
pedal fully down, select gear, slowly raise the pedal until it begins to drive/move the wheels or the revs begin to dip.
bite point just means the clutch is beginning to transition from disengaged to engaged.
to select a gear requires abit more pedal/cable travel for the clutch to be fully disengage.
compared to ultra-light modern hydraulic clutches, the old cable & fork operated clutches in these type of cars will be slightly heavier but if this is a standard clutch with standard pressure plate and working smoothly it shouldn't require tons of effort to push, unless u begin running some heavy-duty pressure plate like on mine.
now I'm assuming you've driven this micra or this type of micra before to know how it should feel and how medium-heavy it should weigh.
plotting pedal force vs pedal travel it should feel like this. ur clutch pedal has a tension return spring (red curve)
if it feels really really stiff & heavy, stop before u snap the bracket. something in the clutch is really wrong n worth checking out.
Yea I tried what you said above so i will have a look on this clutch tomo. I will need to take this gearbox out. Btw I got a good second hand gear box so will need to swap over. This present gearbox don't have reverse loom (snapped) so it's important for safety use.
I don't know about clutch so it will be better to get new clutch. I won't get it until I upload pictures. I have to make this car to be working tomo so I can't give up yet.
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I don't know about clutch so it will be better to get new clutch. I won't get it until I upload pictures. I have to make this car to be working tomo so I can't give up yet.
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pollyp
Club Member
hmm since u have a new clutch n better gearbox to fix the missing reverse switch, may as well replace em both all the way.
be a good idea to measure n compare the old/new clutch plate with vernier calipers.
remember to clean flywheel face with carb/brake cleaner & relube the release bearing contact surfaces with light smear of generic grease, check the dowel pins on new gearbox matches the old one, file smooth any bumps around the dowels so it'll slot in smoothly, have fun with that annoying splashplate
best of luck.
be a good idea to measure n compare the old/new clutch plate with vernier calipers.
remember to clean flywheel face with carb/brake cleaner & relube the release bearing contact surfaces with light smear of generic grease, check the dowel pins on new gearbox matches the old one, file smooth any bumps around the dowels so it'll slot in smoothly, have fun with that annoying splashplate
best of luck.
Little update...
I won't be able to get new clutch kit, moly grease, carb cleaner and clutch alignment today. However, these struct bolts from hubs are really hard so I can get 3/8 long breaker bar from halford. (Close at 8) I will be able to take this gearbox out today so is it going to be ok to leave it without gearbox on until tomo noon. ( I am talking about rust and fresh air will come in lol). If it's ok then I can spend a lot of time to look up on this clutch and also to sort gearbox as well.
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I won't be able to get new clutch kit, moly grease, carb cleaner and clutch alignment today.
However, these struct bolts from hubs are really hard so I can get 3/8 long breaker bar from halford. (Close at 8) I will be able to take this gearbox out today so is it going to be ok to leave it without gearbox on until tomo noon. ( I am talking about rust and fresh air will come in lol). If it's ok then I can spend a lot of time to look up on this clutch and also to sort gearbox as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
pollyp
Club Member
what is struct bolts? drive shaft nut? (need big socket & big breaker bar) hub/susp strut nut & bolts? (6-sided 17mm socket & breaker bar) always suggest wirebrushing the exposed rusted threads & spray wd40 so it's easier to undo.
separating the gearbox from engine and leaving it exposed for days is fine, the bell housing is exposed to elements anyway.
it's the oily insides which u need to protect from dirt, so good idea to cover the driveshaft holes from dirt after removal if stored for awhile.
separating the gearbox from engine and leaving it exposed for days is fine, the bell housing is exposed to elements anyway.
it's the oily insides which u need to protect from dirt, so good idea to cover the driveshaft holes from dirt after removal if stored for awhile.
I mean these bolts connected from top hubs to struct. ( shock absorber) Halford got only 3/8 in 11inch breaker bar which is not enough long. ( need a big longer.) In machine mart, they got 3/8 14 inch breaker bar so I will do your method first. If not then will get breaker bar tomo.
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