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My long promised blog

Where my post go?!
Anyway, does the pic suggest you use the boost created by small turbo to drive the large turbo's exhaust turbine bit?
I get that too, glad its not just me :/

It does Neil :)
My thinking being, cooler exhaust turbine temp, less heat soak, cooler inlet temp and with running from the rear of the car I shouldn't need an intercooler and can run thinner pipework to keep boost pressure up :)
 
Would the volume from small turbo be enough to drive the bigger turbo?
Doesn't the heat/thermal gubbins help drive the turbos too? (Sure I read that somewhere)
 
Would the volume from small turbo be enough to drive the bigger turbo?
Doesn't the heat/thermal gubbins help drive the turbos too? (Sure I read that somewhere)
mainly exhaust gas pressure i think neil, with energy from the heat expansion and pulses eh :)
 
Would the volume from small turbo be enough to drive the bigger turbo?
Doesn't the heat/thermal gubbins help drive the turbos too? (Sure I read that somewhere)
the small one spools up first then its w/g flow feeds the bigger turbo eh :)
 
Think Andy is suggesting the outlet from small turbo drives the exhaust side of large turbo......think that's what drawing means :)
 
ahh, coldside into hotside andy :) novel idea, but i can only see efficiency losses personally
Effiency smishency :p
With it all running through the SC it'll always have boost at the engine
Just wondering if it'll work, if not I'll stick to the traditional method, I dont want to be buying a few metres of stainless twice is to test it :)
 
Effiency smishency :p
With it all running through the SC it'll always have boost at the engine
Just wondering if it'll work, if not I'll stick to the traditional method, I dont want to be buying a few metres of stainless twice is to test it :)
there,s a hell of a lot of pressure inside a turbo exh mani andy, as long as you can match that ?
 
Just my 2 cents on LSDs in response to "as a motor sport chap I thought you of all people would of had an lsd"
Well put simply I don't want one. I can only see a negative effect both on road and track.. they're only a real advantage on mixed surfaces. This all being based on part availability and cost over the results

Why no use on road/track?
Well an open diff only becomes useless once 1 tyre has broken traction and put simply if you've broken traction with either wheel you're doing something wrong.
If I apply throttle around a corner and I break traction with either wheel (my most recent case being inside front wheel lift) then you certainly don't want to be pushing on or you'll understeer off the line or worse off the circuit. In my case my cornering speed and grip exceeded the lateral balance of my car itself, judgement made by knowing CoG over Roll centre calculation to give maximum lateral G etc etc (wider track or lower CoG required, hence poly windows)
An open diff will give a momentary stop to the drive on the car, regaining traction and therefore drive ability in a fraction of a second
An LSD on the other hand will push on regardless and act almost as a solid axle and push out as I say off the circuit

Being as I'm a handling fan I try to focus on corners and there's no way I can maximise my cornering ability any more than I already have with an lsd especially considering their current cost. So that's why I dont use one, there's no need for one on road and circuit and quite honestly I'm faster without :)

Its use is multiple surfaced areas, ie rally's where you may have less grippy gravel under 1 wheel and tarmac under the other, as there's more grip available to the tarmac wheel and open diff would be no good if traction was to break, an lsd makes the best of the situation and cracks on, but you'll still have the cornering problem if they're npt setup. People like to blame suspension for bad handling and in 90% of the cases I see personally its far from ideal, not they the knew it, but in 99% of cases its the drivers ability to handle the car and drive it at its limit. Hard throttle, understeer, blame suspension. Nope, blame the lsd and the driving style. Your still going to understeer if the suspension is incorrect with an open diff but a whole other can of worms

If I was to choose any type of LSD it would be a 1 way type. Why?
Open diffs are superior for corners, locked diffs are good for straights.
If I was to brake into a corner, maintain speed around corner, and power out at the appropriate time I would only want to be applying hard throttle where the wheel was straight
 
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Things are looking up for me and my plucky little business, going back into a unit where I belong at the weekend.
I can now go back to work and come back home again, rather than sat with it all 24/7

About time my hard work paid off :D
 
Track day over, lessons learnt about my new setup again.
This was a shell with an engine bolted in yesterday, worked on until 00:45am, 5 hours sleep later time to go

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The day started badly with the car randomly cutting out half way there, only for it to restart within a minute and carry on. Ah well

Happened again just after the first corner of my first sighting lap except this time no restart. Odd. Inspection revealed a bad king lead end, pulled it off, banged it in and off we went again.
Confidence gained, track learnt, starting to push sufficiently to keep up/overtake the other cars on circuit

After a good few hours it happened again. So instead of going out again, I went out with Paul and Colin in their cars.
King lead repaired, and it started up, idled fine and we got home no issue :)

Things to inspect thanks to a good track kick in and the journeys between
- Cooling system works well, too well the car was over cooled in general driving, meaning the choke stayed on and overfuelled, on track it was spot on :)
-Inspect king lead and upgrade
-Upgrade rear engine mount from poly to nylon, the poly isn't man enough
-Mesh grille (although it was unfinished anyway)
-Find the new bonnet pins I bought and use them

Ready for the next one :)
 
King lead replaced with an 8mm Champion lead that's been meaning to go on for months. 1 job down

421 back on, exhaust modified to suit new downpipe location. Do have photos to upload soon. A stop gap while I concoct my modular stainless system :)

Grille painted, no mesh yet

Over cooling issue... Idea 1 - going to put a second thermostat in the radiator line, around the back out of the air stream. Based on the assumption the current thermostat works fine from bleeding the rad Saturday night/Sunday morning
 
Modified exhaust :)
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Looms made for my gauges
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Loom prepared to integrate gauge loom
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Extended studs pressed in
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Spacers added
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Created a new copper joiner to join my battery properly too
New wires for spotlights for rallies
Rebuilt my front shocks as I blew one

Got simple bumper brackets to make
Spotlight mounts too
Fronts to add spacers to
 
I've saved 4.5kg per (rear window) had to be a rough guesstimate as I've only got my £3 scales at my unit

So far
£85 for the poly sheet iirc
5 windows. Rear window is 1/6th of said sheet
Making a rear window £14.17 for 4.5kg of weight saved
 
Got the engine running smoother today
It was consuming alot of fuel, idle was lumpy and it generally ran badly. When on track and giving it a good blast, the plugs told me the engine was happy and burning spot on.
I did passively notice the dizzy was at max advance, I thought nothing of it because I know I havent touched it for months.
Got a timing light to it tonight and the timing was around 50btdc at a guess maybe more, it was so rediculously out. My only guess as to how its moved so much is it being knocked when I took it out, but even that seems far-fetched.
Ah well, got it timed up to 10-15btdc and the idle has smoothed out, it doesnt stink of fuel and a good run in the morning should dictate if the running of the engine has improved, I'm fairly confident it has with such a huge change in ignition timing
 
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a good run in the morning should dictate if the running of the engine has improved, I'm fairly confident it has with such a huge change in ignition timing
Nope, same.
Pushed the throttle just in first 'propa boy racer stylez init' it chucked some black out the back. Once I turned the junction I got a rather large backfire.. but all is still well
Back to unit, check plugs.. Black.
Put em in, cyl 4 seems a tad precarious so I didn't dare tighten it much more, leads on doesn't start at all
Check leads, king lead knocked loose, plugged in
Start again, crank over, crank speed went up n up n up and then started normally and has ran fine ever since :/

Probably the oddest most random engine I have ever met in my life
 
Put the car on the Atkins again
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Months of neglect and abuse will now be swapped for tlc over winter. Looks aren't my thing but I've got to draw a line somewhere and that's here n now. Where I've been grinding in or around the car has left nice specs of rusty particles all over and in most cases embedded in the metal
Time to tidy up the paintwork :)
 
Makes me think my timing is out on the pug, when I actually can start it, it runs rough as dog whatevers... Thanks for the idea :p

Never thought I'd see you care about the body work, I'll be interested to see how that goes. :)
 
Makes me think my timing is out on the pug, when I actually can start it, it runs rough as dog whatevers... Thanks for the idea :p

Never thought I'd see you care about the body work, I'll be interested to see how that goes. :)
The fact that a new chap in the shop is learning to make body panels and is a seasoned sprayer I should have it covered :D

Timing is definitely worth checking. I can't believe I overlooked it :/
The fact I use my car as level of something I 'don't' want my builds to be says something :(
 
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