haha, done that!Next Wednesday
Oh well was a good ride out
Although I was lucky and they could squeeze me in.
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Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum
My long promised blog
- Thread starter h701micra
- Start date
Although I was lucky and they could squeeze me in.
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They had 15 mins before next test so they couldn't
Ah well the ride out gave me some ideas etc so it should be even more mot friendly
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I'm swapping engines entirely
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They can be ported for use with fuel injection. But with de heads being as common as they are there's not much point
Looking for a de engine?
Thanks
I like that green... for no apparent reason
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Creeped into 4 figures somehow aint they
I think I've seen some progress photos
I'm currently making a full time bracket for the alternator on the rear replacing the pas pump and have the whole lot run on 1 belt... simple to do just getting on with it
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I got my de for £60
... only wanted the drive shaft that came with itMoving the alternator because;
1: 1 belt is simpler for service
2: Dont use PAS so I'm making the most of the space
3: Clears the front for my turbo
4: relieves a belt slot so I can machine the pulley to accept a wider v belt for the supercharger
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
I'm hoping that by not pushing my charger I can get away with a normal 4pk belt... otherwise I'm gunna struggle XDI got my de for £60
Moving the alternator because;
1: 1 belt is simpler for service
2: Dont use PAS so I'm making the most of the space
3: Clears the front for my turbo
4: relieves a belt slot so I can machine the pulley to accept a wider v belt for the supercharger
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And I have a 3belt pulley in use for 2.... I wont share for the sake of being harsh
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Not much to add for H701 really other than s sticker or 2
Little touches on the celica trying to replicate my old one. Just better
Put my carbon bits in
Added a sun strip too because I still had one from my other celica. So technically free so can't complain
Little touches on the celica trying to replicate my old one. Just better
Put my carbon bits in
Added a sun strip too because I still had one from my other celica. So technically free so can't complain
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Oh I thought it was reminding you of your childhood memoriesYou're just remaking your child hood car
It was second car 1.0l K10 to 2.0T GT4... big jump. Much lessons learned, much money spent
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Rebuilt these today. Stripped down, strengthened the lower mounts and rebuilt em with some fresh VI400 oil and topped up the nitrogen pocket. So they're nice and stiff ready for the track
Used the bump stop shim they come supplied with until I get some more to shim em up to my spec
Progressive 500/600 bump stop and boot
My carefully selected springs. Using a stiffer helper to make the setup a progressive type
Custom made top mount with thrust bearing
And x2
Used the bump stop shim they come supplied with until I get some more to shim em up to my spec
Progressive 500/600 bump stop and boot
My carefully selected springs. Using a stiffer helper to make the setup a progressive type
Custom made top mount with thrust bearing
And x2
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No need for em to be on yet ehThey on yet?
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Using a long p-clip, bolted to the tabs
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Amidst all the palava of roll cages and my wiring. I decided to do one of those small jobs that you end up being quite proud of
My windscreen heater was a bit pants. Partly because the little plastic clips weren't holding em on properly and they look like this
Every other dash I've dealt with have some sort of foam seal around the edge. Now I knew I had some of this in my shed... somewhere... and I've had it yearsss. Only had 1 strip and it panned out well
You can see I ran out but its near enough
I'll let you know the results when it goes back on
My windscreen heater was a bit pants. Partly because the little plastic clips weren't holding em on properly and they look like this
Every other dash I've dealt with have some sort of foam seal around the edge. Now I knew I had some of this in my shed... somewhere... and I've had it yearsss. Only had 1 strip and it panned out well
You can see I ran out but its near enough
I'll let you know the results when it goes back on
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Shock absorbers
They're funny things and ever so misunderstood. So on a cut-down today I took photos to share with you how they work and how they're assembled
First up I drilled a hole to allow the release of gas and oil. However these are not gas shocks. And it simply air that's been released from hot aerated oil. And compressed. Similar way to fizzy pop hisses when opened. A gas one would have a cylindrical bag of a nitrogen. I'll explain how they work a little further in.
Common misconception of a shock is the bit you see is full of oil.. incorrect.
Its a reservoir to displace and replace oil to compensate for volume/pressure changes during a cycle
The oil.
Like an engine oil it becomes contaminated and ideally we'd like to replace it every now and then but we can't because shocks are welded together.
See how its aerated even after a few small pumps of the shaft to clear it. This tells me the oil has broken down and is no longer up to the task.
Oil out. Bottom off
With the bottom off you can knock the inner tube down to get access to cut the top off
Then remove the inner tube assembly. This is what is actually full of oil
The parts and a detailed strip down.
First bit is the top cup or bearing or plug. They have many names but their purpose is the same. Keep the shock shaft straight. Provide a bearing for shaft to rotate in. And plug the end of the inner tube
When a shock "blows" or leaks and the seal has gone. Its the little blue chap in the top there
Oil seal pops out and can be replaced. Usually done on rebuildable shocks as cutting the open and welding up isn't an option
Next up is the shock shaft assembly
On the left is the internal rebound stop (note not bump stop as this doesn't affect bump/compression at all)
On the right is the piston, shim stacks, preload spring and locking nut
At the end of the inner tube is another piston or valve. Its called a check valve, relief valve, end valve. No set name but still retains the same purpose. To allow the pressure relief in the lower section of the inner tube created by a compression stroke. Also to allow the extra intake of oil during the negative pressure of a rebound stroke. This is also where our nitrogen pocket comes in. When our shock is compressed and oil is forced into the reservoir outer tube the nitrogen is then compressed.. upon rebound this pressure is put on the oil outside speeding up/actively forcing oil flow back into the inner tube.
These relief valves are setup much like our main piston and shims, explained in a mo
Breaking this down
Simply attach the top of the shaft to a set of mole grips or place in a vice. Or a suitable allen key etc etc in a vice to lock one end and undo. The flared threaded end will either retake its old shape or crack off like one did here
Left to right,
Locking nut, preload spring, spring seat, rebound shim stack, piston and compression shim stack
Here's the rebound shim stack
Ordered top to bottom. Bottom being closest to piston
The one closest is easy to bend and allows a high flow of oil
Add the second one. Our oil way is becoming more restrictive. Increasing the stiffness of the shock
Added the solid 0.10" shims. Our oil way is now completely blocked. Under the high pressure of fast movements the pressure created will make these shims flex. Opening up the oil way in a controlled manner giving out force velocity curve. Our outer holes are always free to pass slow moving oil
Our compression stack is very similar but has different shaped shims for varied flow and a less shims. Compresion stiffness needn't be as high as rebound. On bump the spring works with the shock. Unlike rebound where they oppose each other. Hence stronger rebound stiffness
Compression stack
The difference here is they have their own mini preload spring. Once the spring is compressed the shims flex around it until the come in contact with the "dead stop" a very thick shim that won't flex giving a digressive characteristic before you get a blow off
The piston itself
Rebound side
Compression side
It has a rubberised edge to seal the inner tube into 2 sections
Note the size on the outer holes. They taper down towards the comp side. Giving a more resistive rebound as opposed to the freer comp flow
Shocks get alot more complicated than just those components. The thousands of shim variations, piston size. Hole sizes. Twin tube, mono tube, external reservoir, oil type, nitrogen charges, adjustable nitrogen pressure, shaft width, shaft length.. Each thing plays it part in how a shock reacts. So before you think they're just insignificant tubes of oil think again because you'd be lost without em
They're funny things and ever so misunderstood. So on a cut-down today I took photos to share with you how they work and how they're assembled
First up I drilled a hole to allow the release of gas and oil. However these are not gas shocks. And it simply air that's been released from hot aerated oil. And compressed. Similar way to fizzy pop hisses when opened. A gas one would have a cylindrical bag of a nitrogen. I'll explain how they work a little further in.
Common misconception of a shock is the bit you see is full of oil.. incorrect.
Its a reservoir to displace and replace oil to compensate for volume/pressure changes during a cycle
The oil.
Like an engine oil it becomes contaminated and ideally we'd like to replace it every now and then but we can't because shocks are welded together.
See how its aerated even after a few small pumps of the shaft to clear it. This tells me the oil has broken down and is no longer up to the task.
Oil out. Bottom off
With the bottom off you can knock the inner tube down to get access to cut the top off
Then remove the inner tube assembly. This is what is actually full of oil
The parts and a detailed strip down.
First bit is the top cup or bearing or plug. They have many names but their purpose is the same. Keep the shock shaft straight. Provide a bearing for shaft to rotate in. And plug the end of the inner tube
When a shock "blows" or leaks and the seal has gone. Its the little blue chap in the top there
Oil seal pops out and can be replaced. Usually done on rebuildable shocks as cutting the open and welding up isn't an option
Next up is the shock shaft assembly
On the left is the internal rebound stop (note not bump stop as this doesn't affect bump/compression at all)
On the right is the piston, shim stacks, preload spring and locking nut
At the end of the inner tube is another piston or valve. Its called a check valve, relief valve, end valve. No set name but still retains the same purpose. To allow the pressure relief in the lower section of the inner tube created by a compression stroke. Also to allow the extra intake of oil during the negative pressure of a rebound stroke. This is also where our nitrogen pocket comes in. When our shock is compressed and oil is forced into the reservoir outer tube the nitrogen is then compressed.. upon rebound this pressure is put on the oil outside speeding up/actively forcing oil flow back into the inner tube.
These relief valves are setup much like our main piston and shims, explained in a mo
Breaking this down
Simply attach the top of the shaft to a set of mole grips or place in a vice. Or a suitable allen key etc etc in a vice to lock one end and undo. The flared threaded end will either retake its old shape or crack off like one did here
Left to right,
Locking nut, preload spring, spring seat, rebound shim stack, piston and compression shim stack
Here's the rebound shim stack
Ordered top to bottom. Bottom being closest to piston
The one closest is easy to bend and allows a high flow of oil
Add the second one. Our oil way is becoming more restrictive. Increasing the stiffness of the shock
Added the solid 0.10" shims. Our oil way is now completely blocked. Under the high pressure of fast movements the pressure created will make these shims flex. Opening up the oil way in a controlled manner giving out force velocity curve. Our outer holes are always free to pass slow moving oil
Our compression stack is very similar but has different shaped shims for varied flow and a less shims. Compresion stiffness needn't be as high as rebound. On bump the spring works with the shock. Unlike rebound where they oppose each other. Hence stronger rebound stiffness
Compression stack
The difference here is they have their own mini preload spring. Once the spring is compressed the shims flex around it until the come in contact with the "dead stop" a very thick shim that won't flex giving a digressive characteristic before you get a blow off
The piston itself
Rebound side
Compression side
It has a rubberised edge to seal the inner tube into 2 sections
Note the size on the outer holes. They taper down towards the comp side. Giving a more resistive rebound as opposed to the freer comp flow
Shocks get alot more complicated than just those components. The thousands of shim variations, piston size. Hole sizes. Twin tube, mono tube, external reservoir, oil type, nitrogen charges, adjustable nitrogen pressure, shaft width, shaft length.. Each thing plays it part in how a shock reacts. So before you think they're just insignificant tubes of oil think again because you'd be lost without em
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No worries. Hope it was some help
having some basic knowledge like this can help for better suspension decisions in the future To some its second nature to rebuild an engine within a certain spec. Suspension is unlimited and there's no guide to follow so its an endless learning curve its why its my preference
No worries. Hope it was some help
To some its second nature to rebuild an engine within a certain spec. Suspension is unlimited and there's no guide to follow so its an endless learning curve its why its my preference
Just slam it
If it's not scraping you're doing it wrong
SirChris
Educated Bodger
Man after my own heart... Under steer... Over steer.. Who cares.. Learn how to drive it
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
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Idiots everywhere
I like the car parts I spend my hard earned on to last... not disappear into dust and spark trying to look "cool"
SirChris
Educated Bodger
I am coolIdiots everywhere
I like the car parts I spend my hard earned on to last... not disappear into dust and spark trying to look "cool"
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Turbo, Radiator and Manifold
Well for those that haven't seen these already I've a few photos I may aswel share
Made a roll cage out of pvc tape instead. Was much simpler
Swapped my rads from micra to primera thanks to @Belly93 for the rad
Made a thing with pipes n stuff
Part 1 - Outer pipework
Part 2 - Ran out if gas while welding the flange on. Would've heard the change normally.. never weld with headphones in, in future. So I'll finish it when my new CO2 radiator turns up. Damn necessities cost money
Part 3 - Didn't stop a trial fit
Well for those that haven't seen these already I've a few photos I may aswel share
Made a roll cage out of pvc tape instead. Was much simpler
Swapped my rads from micra to primera thanks to @Belly93 for the rad
Made a thing with pipes n stuff
Part 1 - Outer pipework
Part 2 - Ran out if gas while welding the flange on. Would've heard the change normally.. never weld with headphones in, in future. So I'll finish it when my new CO2 radiator turns up. Damn necessities cost money
Part 3 - Didn't stop a trial fit
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I might want to blow the bugs away from the car insteadWhat time is it? time to clock that turbo lol
That rad is a tad bit bigger alright andy
Aye needs turning but I've a supercharge to avoid too. Complex stuff. Custom actuator bracket should sort it no bother
That rad fills the big gap in the front. Eating alllllll the airflow
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That'll be a piece of piss
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