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Mildred the Micra

Hello everyone I'm still at work and had very little time to talk to tom however I believe that my Mildred is still as dead as a dodo :( can anyone think of anything else atall I've been racking my brain but can't think of anything else? I'm sure tom will update with his progress/findings today and well have two sets of hands tomorrow as I'm not working :) x
 
r-reg-sr said:
you'll get 2-300 max for him,if you smile when the sale shows up.
try'd another ignition switch?:)
Click to expand...
We paid double that for her :L no we Havnt but my actual ignition barrel is knackered... To the point I can start her up and remove the key while she's still ticking over.... (when she's not having a grump that is)

McMicra said:
Im sure clodo would rather spend £100 on a new 1.0l engine :p
Click to expand...

She's a 1.3 :p
 
perhaps give the ign switch an overhaul?

dsc04773l.jpg


http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-29#post-460614
 
was just thinking when u mentioned she was still running after removing the key that maybe the grease in the switch was gunked n either holding the switch stuck in the ON position while the keys OFF & removed or the grease affecting the connections hence suggestion of refreshing it to restore its operation.

or did u mean u can remove the key at any of the 4 positions?
 
Hmmm that's very true :) I can pull the key out when ever in any position which isn't good :/ I just presumed the key is excessively worn its 19 and a half years old :L just Havnt got around to sorting it :p
X
 
that switch shown in pauls pic screws on behind the key barrel and wears out.held on with one screw so isnt to bad to get a spare scrappys one.
 
So today... we got it cranking yay!
And have really strong spark to all 4 cylinders.
But it still wont fire!
And just keeps flooding.
 
Its got to be something to Do with the fuel however I'm guessing I can't do anything to fix that with out plugging the ecu in? X
 
you need to remove the fuse then keep cranking till it fires up :) if you,re quick refitting the fuse you can catch it/keep it running before it dies
 
I just cant risk getting to work then having her stuck there as she's flooded :/ surely there's a way to avoid it? X
 
You could put a variable resistor in series with the temp sensor to trick it into thinking its warmer than it is?
 
Clodo said:
@pollyp ..... We need you! :D x
Click to expand...

:) if only I was just nearby.

try these:
1. clean the MAF sensor with carb cleaner (if it reads wrong during cranking, it could inject too much)
2. clean the IAV till it swivels freely (if its stuck closed, not enough air will enter, get too rich and basically idles too low)
3. remove the dizzy cap and clean the white oxide off the 4 points with a dremel wirebrush or emery cloth to ensure 100% ignition strength
4. check spark gaps are 1.1mm
5. check cylinder compressions are all 11-13bars n within 1bar of each other
6. check the ecu coolant temp sensor is within spec (under the dizzy it's the bigger 2-terminal looking sensor under the smaller 1-terminal gauge sensor), if it tells the ecu it's colder than it is then it'll cause coldstart flooding.
to check the sensor drain coolant, remove dizzy, unscrew the coolant sensor, place the sensor in a cup of boiling water with a thermometer and multimeter, the resistances should be 2.5k @ 90c, 0.85k @ 50c, 0.25k @ 20c

when she's flooded, pull out the pump fuse, keep cranking and she should normally fire up briefly.
if it fires briefly (burning the excess fuel in the chambers) and then stops (cos no fuel supply to sustain momentum), pop the fuse in and restart.
if it didn't fire up with the excess fuel in the chambers then one of the combustion requirements are missing (air, fuel, spark)
 
pollyp said:
:) if only I was just nearby.

try these:
1. clean the MAF sensor with carb cleaner (if it reads wrong during cranking, it could inject too much)
2. clean the IAV till it swivels freely (if its stuck closed, not enough air will enter, get too rich and basically idles too low)
3. remove the dizzy cap and clean the white oxide off the 4 points with a dremel wirebrush or emery cloth to ensure 100% ignition strength
4. check spark gaps are 1.1mm
5. check cylinder compressions are all 11-13bars n within 1bar of each other
6. check the ecu coolant temp sensor is within spec (under the dizzy it's the bigger 2-terminal looking sensor under the smaller 1-terminal gauge sensor), if it tells the ecu it's colder than it is then it'll cause coldstart flooding.
to check the sensor drain coolant, remove dizzy, unscrew the coolant sensor, place the sensor in a cup of boiling water with a thermometer and multimeter, the resistances should be 2.5k @ 90c, 0.85k @ 50c, 0.25k @ 20c

when she's flooded, pull out the pump fuse, keep cranking and she should normally fire up briefly.
if it fires briefly (burning the excess fuel in the chambers) and then stops (cos no fuel supply to sustain momentum), pop the fuse in and restart.
if it didn't fire up with the excess fuel in the chambers then one of the combustion requirements are missing (air, fuel, spark)
Click to expand...
So I thought if I need to clean parts of the throttle body... why not clean the whole lot.
So removed from the car, and bought inside for better and warmer atmosphere (for myself of course)
And found... (insert pic here if I could seems im not allowed)
Throttle butterfly is filthy covered in a thick gel of an oil like substance so will clean that up cant believe how thick it is.
The IAV is really clean and swivels freely but gave it clean for good measure.
Went back out to check the inlet manifold and that too is really oily...
 
MicraPRO said:
So I thought if I need to clean parts of the throttle body... why not clean the whole lot.
So removed from the car, and bought inside for better and warmer atmosphere (for myself of course)
And found... (insert pic here if I could seems im not allowed)
Throttle butterfly is filthy covered in a thick gel of an oil like substance so will clean that up cant believe how thick it is.
The IAV is really clean and swivels freely but gave it clean for good measure.
Went back out to check the inlet manifold and that too is really oily...
Click to expand...
Disconnect the engine breathers from the intake and have them go into a catch can (or plastic bottle) to check you aren't getting excessive oil from the breathers...
 
Enuo said:
Disconnect the engine breathers from the intake and have them go into a catch can (or plastic bottle) to check you aren't getting excessive oil from the breathers...
Click to expand...
Makes sense... i will as soon as ive cleaned up this mess mate.
 
MicraPRO said:
So I thought if I need to clean parts of the throttle body... why not clean the whole lot.
So removed from the car, and bought inside for better and warmer atmosphere (for myself of course)
And found... (insert pic here if I could seems im not allowed)
Throttle butterfly is filthy covered in a thick gel of an oil like substance so will clean that up cant believe how thick it is.
The IAV is really clean and swivels freely but gave it clean for good measure.
Went back out to check the inlet manifold and that too is really oily...
Click to expand...
thats pretty normal on a 20yr old engine tom, and i doubt if any of that is causing overfueling issues.
if 1 injector is leaking ? that will trickle down into the bottom of the inlet mani and cause all 4 cyl,s to flood on startup :)
 
frank said:
thats pretty normal on a 20yr old engine tom, and i doubt if any of that is causing overfueling issues.
if 1 injector is leaking ? that will trickle down into the bottom of the inlet mani and cause all 4 cyl,s to flood on startup :)
Click to expand...
Im sure not frank but I replaced the throttle body last year on this car because it was stalling and cutting out at junctions. It was easier to just get a newer one and that was cleaned before it was put on...
How can I check the injector frank?
 
Enuo said:
Oh well... I guess if you have a spare try 2 inline, should lean ot out a bot and might help...
Click to expand...
i have 2 sensors wired in parallel to cure my overfueling eh andy, and here,s my old dyno printout showing the enrichment when i switched the coolant sensor off (the blue line at the bottom)

dqhr8k.jpg
 
frank said:
cloe has always complained of crap mpg,s iirc, praps there is a circuit break on the coolant sensor ?
Click to expand...
I dont think chloe would say crap frank I think she would say diabolical she averages 140 miles per tank full and weve never understood why... flys through emissions all the time so surely not burning fuel in the wrong way.
 
MicraPRO said:
I dont think chloe would say crap frank I think she would say diabolical she averages 140 miles per tank full and weve never understood why... flys through emissions all the time so surely not burning fuel in the wrong way.
Click to expand...

check for binding brakes, low tyre pressure, excessive toe in/out, excess electrical load on the alternator
 

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