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Mildred the Micra

Yup they've alllllll gone in the bin
Multiple emails sent out (or to be sent out) I can't have it happen to anyone else. It'd destroy me inside.

The weld itself is ok, it's torn the bottom of it off completely. I've no idea why or how or what. It's completely ludacris. I can only assume bad material they're originally made of. If it was the weld that fractured then TA have a lot to answer for in their weld quality (I didn't weld any coilovers with nylon bushes)

My only immediate thoughts are nylon isn't right for use in those, but then I've already changed over to a new polybush. So I've overcome a problem before I knew it existed. 2 have snapped before 1 because they were modified and force fit somewhere else. The other because he didn't have an adjustable pamhard rod. So due to people's cock-ups they've failed but I put these on. I knew they were right

I've already heard the snide comments of some and long will they continue as they fester in their groups of pathetic behaviour, but I'm not hiding away from it. That's a serious safety issue that could potentially affect anyone.
I modified it. It failed. I've improved/changed it. We move on. I can't do any more than that
 
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Late update due to a 24 hour shift...
Goodies from the wonderful Andy at bsr.....
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Big thank-you for sorting my problem out very quickly and especially through a slightly hysterical phone call :) arrived a few days later :)
I have to say (and please do not take any offence Andy) these seem a far better design and a far nicer fit... Also easier and less fiddly to fit. The ride height is bang on. not had a chance to drive on them yet as I havnt had time to fit the panhard rod yet :( but judging by the way the back end moves when I wiggle in the boot they seem far less "crashey" much nicer for my boney bottom! :)
Once again thank-you @h701micra :)
Xxxx
 
that configuration looks alot better with:
thicker gauge tube than the paper thin older strut,
forgiving rubber bush reducing bending force on the weld as the axle leans vs solid nylon bush on the prev strut,
separate spring & damper roles,
all helping to keep stress n fatigue failure to a minimum.

does the spring adjuster have any locking mech to keep it in place?
 
It's why I swapped Chloe. It's a better way around the whole thing. I hated machining nylon and faffing around with the old ones, although the occasional set gets asked for so I've not escaped em yet. These ones fit nicer and as you say more comfy.
I described them to someone as less crashy yesterday but they didn't quite understand what I meant. They thought they caused you to crash but new sets were just a little less likely... I rolled my eyes

Paul nothing was paper thin they're all the same gauge, except the shock now doesn't have to support a spring so isn't offset. Both are 32mm wide with 23mm x 2.5mm width bush ring welded to the same gauge material, again 2.5mm
Fatigue was the reason nylon was dropped for polyurethane, both for me because making them was a chore and easier to work with and for parts so they were a little free.

Don't worry Paul.. I know what I'm doing
 
pollyp said:
that configuration looks alot better with:
thicker gauge tube than the paper thin older strut,
forgiving rubber bush reducing bending force on the weld as the axle leans vs solid nylon bush on the prev strut,
separate spring & damper roles,
all helping to keep stress n fatigue failure to a minimum.

does the spring adjuster have any locking mech to keep it in place?
Click to expand...
I agree with you Paul :)
The old shocks where pretty hefty things, I wouldn't say they were thin :)
I'm really chuffed with them... I will let you know what they're like to drive on :)
No the don't Paul I guess the pressure of the springs lock them into place :) xx
 
h701micra said:
It's why I swapped Chloe. It's a better way around the whole thing. I hated machining nylon and faffing around with the old ones, although the occasional set gets asked for so I've not escaped em yet. These ones fit nicer and as you say more comfy.
I described them to someone as less crashy yesterday but they didn't quite understand what I meant. They thought they caused you to crash but new sets were just a little less likely... I rolled my eyes

Paul nothing was paper thin they're all the same gauge, except the shock now doesn't have to support a spring so isn't offset. Both are 32mm wide with 23mm x 2.5mm width bush ring welded to the same gauge material, again 2.5mm
Fatigue was the reason nylon was dropped for polyurethane, both for me because making them was a chore and easier to work with and for parts so they were a little free.

Don't worry Paul.. I know what I'm doing
Click to expand...
Yes they do fit nicer I've had to cable tie the rubber seating circles to the top of the springs as they are a slightly smaller diameter and find a smaller diameter bolt for the bottom of the shock but that's it ... Can't wait to drive on them :) x
 
Glad you're sorted with a new set springs :). Slightly off topic but where did you get your rear lights from clodo? Were they imported? I love them
 
Zazee said:
Glad you're sorted with a new set springs :). Slightly off topic but where did you get your rear lights from clodo? Were they imported? I love them
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Yeah me too :)
Ahhh thank-you very much :) they were imported through a lovely seller on eBay, japandy :) xx
 
Finally the back wheels are legal! They are rolled so they are bang on :) panhard rod adjusted nicely and the post man brought me some goodies :)
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Now just this issue to sort :(
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Nice hole in the rear arche :( luckily it's only in the outer skin.... So I've painted the inside... And caked the inside with chemical metal to pack it... Sanded that back and layed some bog on it, sanded and second coat applied... That's all though for today due to on off rain :( x
 
That surface rust may come with a nasty surprise. Those two metal sheets are joined forming a V shape and provide perfect conditions for collecting moisture and making rust. The ideal solution would be to cut out both of those parts(lower and side) and patch it with fibreglass or weld it all up.
IMG_1719.jpg
 
Zazee said:
Fighting that rust, good stuff! :) I need to do the same to mine tbf. I have some surface rust in the same place :(
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I would get it sorted... God I wish I'd tackled mine sooner would have just of been a touch up if I had :L
I've had to reshape the rear quater and then reshape the arch lip with bog trying to follow the lines as best as possible... I've used a heck of a lot of bog.... And its taken so long but hey a job worth doing and all that :L seriously though sort it before it looks like mine :L
It was just a little blister...... But when I first got Mildred I deemed it a fantastic idea to push my nail into it, and poped if :L... Finally got round to fixing it.... 2 1/2 years later :L at some point I'll take the inside rear quater panels out and cram some more waxoyl down there :) xx
 
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Soo today I drove Mildred for first time on her new suspension and wheels.. Suspension was lovely and soft.... Far nicer... I now no longer get travel sickness in my own car and no more sore bottom :).... Looks awesome.... However "stance" life really is not for me.... I hate it! I've annoyed alot of people by going so slow... And turned alot of heads... Don't think it was in a good way... A 20 minute journey took an hour... With lots and lots of scrapping...
The smell of burning rubber ...
In conclusion...... I hate the "low life".... The ride height is coming up! Xxx
 
I wouldn't inflict that journey on anyone... I'm not even sure how I don't have a flinstone car.... Such a hideous sound.... However she is "slammed" I have about an Cm and a half of ground cleareance on the underside and a finger width if that of arch gap...
So she can come up a fair bit and not look silly on those wheels :)
It is literally undrivable.... Worse drive of my life :L and it will kill Mildred driving it like that :( xxx
 
Little update spent time today smoothing my super s bumper :)
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Few cracks, nothing major :) little fiber glass sorted that :)

This is how I've left it for now :) nearly there now :) in the last stages of bogging :) just the little imperfections to sort then it's ready for spraying :)
1437321216145.jpg
 
Haahaa thanks Max :) has taken all day but with the sun shining and the metal playing it's been quite therapeutic strangely :L

Just got to get the right curvature now :)

Debating whether to use the mud flaps or not :)

Will be speaking to Emz at dilligaf decals for another one of her awesome vinyls :) x
 
Clodo said:
A small and slightly over due update..... finally finnished re upholstering the front seats and got them in :)

Before.....
View attachment 36507

After......
View attachment 36508
View attachment 36509
View attachment 36510
Just need to work on the centre console abit more to make it smooth but im really chuffed with them :) soo much more comfy :)
Sorry for the bad pictures :p x
Click to expand...
Hi clodo do you have a walkthrough on how do do this because I don't have a clue how/were to start lol
 
Haahaa :) will sort something when I get time :)
Little update.... no pictures....
I think Im on the last layer of bog to be sanded before colour, fingers crossed!!! :)
Hopefully get some time tomorrow :) xx
 
Update time :)
Bumper just needs another coat of primer then fingers crossed!! The bogging is done :) we shall see :)

Spent today pottering around In the garage...
Started to strip Mildred's original heart....
removed the timing chain cover, cams and chain....
Not great to be honest...
1437587851602.jpg

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Very thick in engine slim :/ she wasn't very well looked after before I got her...
The head bolts were very rusty when I removed them... Also very wet....
Then the moment of truth... How bad is the gasket fail.....
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Yeap...... I've cooked her, well and truly... The firing rings were completely seperate :O

The coolant Chanel's and oil galleries are actually a disgrace...
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Well I thought that was bad... Then I had a look at the head.... Yeah not good....
1437588379401.jpg

Inside the cam case looks To be in OK condition apart from the charring on the spark plug tunnels...
But my goodness... The gasket face :O....
1437588666729.jpg

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The head has corroded badly all the way round in every gap on the gasket :/

Every piston has a very thick coating of carbon on...

So a head rebuild has now turned into a full engine rebuild due to the state of it....

All chain tensioners are very worn.. And it looks like the chain has slipped out the groves and gouged there own path...

All the pistons are in very similar condition... OK but very black, all the
Gudgon pins though are still realy strong
1437588914471.jpg

Cranks in good condition no charing.. And bearing caps are also good :)
Along with the big end bearings
Bottom end is a but sludgy but should clean up nicely :)
1437589184888.jpg

And the cyliners are in pretty awesome condition :)
1437589251939.jpg


And this is how I've left it..
1437589320436.jpg


Poor Mildred... She served me well....
Xx
 

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This is my thoughts at the moment. Bottom end is fine... Just needs new crank seals both ends and piston rings :) just depends on how much the head skim will be xx
 
gee I thought my original first engine was bad.
looking at the awfully pitted head & rusty brown stained jackets, the coolent's not been changed regularly or prob never.
the old broken up coolant section of the HG could be due to age from coolant being soaked into & softening the gasket material.
separation of the fire rings from the rest of the HG ain't a problem as long as it still holds the pressure.

pistons showing signs of alot of blowby past all the rings, best check the end gaps incase they're all tired and if the piston-bore gap is still within spec before considering rebuild, which will be more expensive, time consuming and pointless on a worn block. if block is worn out, it's cheaper & faster to just get a good spare engine.

the sludgy lack of oil change intervals could've led to blocked oil passages including the chain tensioners which could make em rattle loosely about irratically.
 
Since I've had her oil and coolant has been changed every six months... But unfortunately I dont know much about her past
From the looks of it Paul it failed along time ago but like you said, some how has managed to keep compression... This engine in all honesty is rather a mess but the components are still OK

I also think the head skim itself is going to be costy due to the amount they'd have to skim because of the extent of the corrosion...

The coolant channels are just a mess aswell so until I get some prices unfortunately I think this engine may just be scrap and a spares bin.....

I shall check the bore gaps though but like you said... Engines are about £70 rebuilding a worn engine seems silly xx
 
Clodo said:
Since I've had her oil and coolant has been changed every six months... But unfortunately I dont know much about her past
From the looks of it Paul it failed along time ago but like you said, some how has managed to keep compression... This engine in all honesty is rather a mess but the components are still OK

I also think the head skim itself is going to be costy due to the amount they'd have to skim because of the extent of the corrosion...

The coolant channels are just a mess aswell so until I get some prices unfortunately I think this engine may just be scrap and a spares bin.....

I shall check the bore gaps though but like you said... Engines are about £70 rebuilding a worn engine seems silly xx
Click to expand...

yes imho I'd say it's uneconomical to repair.
skimming the head excessively causes other issues including higher compression and upsets cam timing.
the pitted cooling jacket bits of the head ain't a problem. it's the fire ring surfaces & high pressure oil feed port that's the important surfaces that must be perfectly flat & smooth.

adding up all the machining, new parts, many fluid & filter changes to break-in a rebuilt engine it'll cost upto hundreds.
whereas a spare running £70 engine, tis a no brainer if it's just gonna be N/A
 
Yes I have to agree Paul :) I think I may still get a quote on a skim... Just in case :) but yeah I think it's just going to be a spare parts engine after actually thinking about it :L but either way it's been very interesting seeing the condition of the Engine... I have to say I was very shocked... I though it was in good condition and would just be a case of a light skim as I thought I'd caught it in time... But hey.... She obviously wasnt very well maintained by previous owners... Ahh well can't dwel on it :) Mildred has a new engine and hey....Kept me busy for a few hours :D xx
 
Clodo said:
Yes I have to agree Paul :) I think I may still get a quote on a skim... Just in case :) but yeah I think it's just going to be a spare parts engine after actually thinking about it :L but either way it's been very interesting seeing the condition of the Engine... I have to say I was very shocked... I though it was in good condition and would just be a case of a light skim as I thought I'd caught it in time... But hey.... She obviously wasnt very well maintained by previous owners... Ahh well can't dwel on it :) Mildred has a new engine and hey....Kept me busy for a few hours :D xx
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more building/learning experience for you & soon be a micra engine building queen :D
case of keep the good bits (cams & bolts etc) and throw the worn old bits.
 
Took the head to a local engineers today :).

Yeah it needs atleast 2mm taken of :(

The lovely chap said he wouldn't be happy to skim that much of and told me it was just scrap :L

Lovely gentleman :)

So now all the valves are out and the engine spares have all been boxed up :) hey ho!! Xxx
 
Skim it, high comp engine ;)

Then just find one of those half link chain link doodads that frank used


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I did talk to him about it but he realy wasn't happy about doing it ... He said 2mm at the absolute minimum... He said it was far to risky....

In all fairness the head is pretty cooked.... And very worn all round :L not worth the price of the skim :L and the bottom block isn't great either

When Tom isn't looking I'm going to run away with his High compression head :D.... But shhhh he doesn't know this :p

X
 
Quick question! Your sticker stack on the rear window, are they on the inside? If so, are they okay on the heating strips? orrrrr If they're on the outside are they okay with the wiper going over them? tahhh:)
 
Josh_MR said:
Quick question! Your sticker stack on the rear window, are they on the inside? If so, are they okay on the heating strips? orrrrr If they're on the outside are they okay with the wiper going over them? tahhh:)
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Heyaa Josh :)
They're on the outside :) they're fine with both heated window and wiper :) x
 

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