Micra turbo running lean

you might find that the ecu is over-riding the changes that you make pritz fwn , like Ed (fusion) always says " the k11 ecu is closed loop in entirety"
 
pritz said:
wouldnt it just take it back to 14.7 rather than completely leaning it out?(21.7)
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yes it should do mate, are you sure your wideband is calibrated accurately ?
you could try it with a spare coolant temp sensor connected to the plug/wiring, away from the engine and not connected to the one in the head (mine held 13:1 open loop at WOT when i did that)
 
yes my wideband was calibrated before it was installed also when the car is running lean the car acts in that way. The wideband isnt connect to the ecu in any way therefore it only shows the readings nothing more. Ive got a small video of the car running if that will help ive taking a recording of the wideband
 
right, ive removed the emanage and removed the 370cc injectors and now im running on 1.6 injectors car seems to be running alot better how at idle its lean and cuts out but whilst driving its okay
 
Right car still runs ok for like 25 mins then wants to cut out and today I tried another ecu and it didn't make no difference it was still running like #### and kept cutting out so ecu is fine now what? :s how do I know if it's running closed loop or not?
 
right this exactly what happened this morning started the car the car was running fine (not maintaing 14.7 but running fine) i drove to the scrappy still running ok, got another ecu plugged it up car was running better maintaing 14.7,so i told the guy ill take it let me go home and collect the money (stuck old ecu back in and drove home), got money and was on the way back car started messing about and cutting out and at one point wouldnt start i let it cool and got it started and just made it to the scrappy, i then removed the old ecu and got the new one and plugged it in the car still kept cutting out. It cuts out when braking(so idle ye) but its running rough. like i said it fine in the firts 25min or so
 
it might be the ga16 injectors pritz ? mine ran crap with them and would,nt start unless i pulled the fuelpump fuse first fwn
yet the topfeed QG injectors run perfect in mine for some reason ?? (and they,re bigger, 211cc)
 
pritz said:
if there was a vac leak wouldnt i have the problem straight away? because car is okay when cold?
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Firstly it is a Long shot
But no when it's cold the rubber hoses will be also meaning any splits may be sealed slightly, once warm the rubber hoses become more malleable and the hole can then open. The very situation you describe I have repaired many times and my mate only yesterday day diagnosed a vac pipe split as his problem which is the same as yours
 
frank said:
a vac leak would just give you an over-fast idle
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What about on the fpr Frank? When I've had vac leaks I've not had an over fast idle I've had poor runing or not at all running
It's very common when people plug their boost controllers into the vac pipe on the fpr even though the instructions say to it's not a good idea
 
frank it was doing the same thing when my emanage was connected with the 370cc injectors so i think the injectors are fine. car starts straight away no problems, when i had the 370cc i didnt have to remove the fuse to start the car.

ive sprayed carb cleaner near pipes but not seen anything or no difference to how the cars running

im really lost :S
 
I'd have a good look at the fpr pipes mate spraying carb cleaner won't work if they're sealed, have you checked for a boost leak? Injector knackard check the spray pattern?
I'm going through all the things I checked before my I checked my vac off the fpr and found I'd cracked a pipe when I t pieced my profec b into the fpr pipe! Needless to say I found a new safe vac point
 
frank said:
i just pulled my misses,s pipe off and the idle revs increased, (but point taken, that vac pipe drops the rail pressure from 3 to 2.5 bar to equalise the pressure at the injector nozzle eh)
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I'm just going off my sr20det Frank when I pull mine off nothing seems to happen then it starts making a lumpy noise then I panic and put it back on
It's a different set up on a cg dunno if the maf location on a cg makes a difference
 
if fuel pressure was leaking wouldnt i be able to see it on the fuel pressure regulator? eg pressure dropping quickly?
 
thought i would take the car for a drive because the cars never run like this, i took it on a fairly long drive and the car was running at 11-12 and after like 10 15 mins it began to maintain afr between 14-15(running smooth) and thats how it is right now, can anyone explain what can have done this?
could it be that the car has had a alot #### stuck in the system and taking it for a drive has cleared some of it ? ?? or changing the ecu yday done something? i duno, i dont get it because car was running like #### yday and today its running fine we'll the best its ran since the conversions bin done
 
pritz said:
thought i would take the car for a drive because the cars never run like this, i took it on a fairly long drive and the car was running at 11-12 and after like 10 15 mins it began to maintain afr between 14-15(running smooth) and thats how it is right now, can anyone explain what can have done this?
could it be that the car has had a alot #### stuck in the system and taking it for a drive has cleared some of it ? ?? or changing the ecu yday done something? i duno, i dont get it because car was running like #### yday and today its running fine we'll the best its ran since the conversions bin done
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Maybe one of the ecu pins was corroded and it's cleaned it removing and refitting it?
Never look a gift horse in the mouth my friend
 
i duno because wouldnt the car have ran okay yday? when i removed it and pluggged it seems as if the settings on ecu have changed :S i duno lol ill start the car again in lil while and see how it is might be in the same boat again i duno :S lets just wait and see
 
pritz said:
i duno because wouldnt the car have ran okay yday? when i removed it and pluggged it seems as if the settings on ecu have changed :S i duno lol ill start the car again in lil while and see how it is might be in the same boat again i duno :S lets just wait and see
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Maybe it's returned to a base map?? Which is defaulted to run the car more rich? I don't know mate it sounds possessed to me lol
 
pritz said:
ive got a greddy guage and ive turned the boost all the way down it does go over 0 abit prob about 3psi
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3psi should be safe:) that's not enough to make it go lean! Are you certain your W/B is fine? None of the wiring is dodgy? Might just be false reading? Or does the car pink which I'd expect if it were going that lean.
I ran my integra at 9psi and it was fine
 
yea when its showing lean that car acts if its about to cut out but at this stage its trying to stay on engine goes fast slow etc and then cuts out
 
Im not sure if tis will affect it but the fact that your bleeding off air to control the boost ,would it affect the air flow meter at idle causing it to go lean?Although yours is in the throttle body and not before the turbo inlet. Also why are you using a bosst controller, you can only turn up the boost with them not reduce it? What boost does the actuator open the wastegate at?
 
the car also stumbles when driving (lean) but alot more leaner at idle. i dont know why but i really feel ive got a vac leak somewhere
 
pritz said:
the car also stumbles when driving (lean) but alot more leaner at idle. i dont know why but i really feel ive got a vac leak somewhere
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Em did you read my post? Would your manual bosst controller be your vac leak?
 
boost controller doesnt need a vacum does it?
theres 2 bits coming off the boost controller one goes to the turbo and the other we leave right?
 
Get some pics up mate, and what pressure does the actuator open the wastegate at without a boost controller?
 
give me your email address and i will show you how the car is running and i will get some pics of the boost controller setup and send them
 

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