k10 stripping

O

ohc_turbo

Guest
thinking about the autograss thread i decided to get rid of the all the interior as at the moment i cant get anymore power out of the car, already steped up to 1.2 power, whoo but loosing weight is a free power upgrade as it will improve the power to weight ratio etc. etc.

hopefully to get any benifit out of the weight loss a min of 8 stone will have to be lost, this will be like driving the car without me in it (im a skinny ######)

so far on my mission is what i would call stage 0.5 lol

started with all boot plastic except the parcel shelf holders.
next was the whole carpet from the boot stuff to the front.

this weighed in at 1.6 stone

next step is to take parcel shelf holders out, carpet that goes up firewall and behind dash, rear seat and all tar thats on the floor. depending on how long the tar takes to get off i will have it done by the weekend, im hoping to achieve at least a 3 stone loss with all this gone.

when ive done this ill weigh the tar seperatly, its not thick like on bigger nissans but they still like putting it on

this will be my stage 1 weight reduction lol
 
great idea mate! keep us posted with weights this is very interesting as i was going to strip the back of mine out :)
 
more like get a ca18det, the money i would have to spend getting a ma12 up to 100bhp i could get a sr20de or a ca18det and have the sr up to 160 and the ca180det up to 200+ no offense to MA series, if i could get a ma10et and loom for like £500 i would go for that option. weight loss then suspention first, its free, well the weight loss is, the only stuff thats going to cost is the perspex windows and maybe some aluminum for the door panels, the perspex is quite expensive but it is avaliable in b&q.

im going to keep the dash, i cant go that hardcore, i still have to use the car everyday, i will take it off and get the metal supports out though but i cant see it being that heavy and will make the dash wobbly, another thing im going to leave is the handbrake plastic and the part that goes over the gearknob, they dont weigh much.

im aiming for mini like handling out of it which should be fun
 
give you abit of advice with the tar,take all the seats carpet out then just wait untill you have had a good frost over night then smack it from under neath upwoods with a hammer and it will come off a peace of ####.dont try to do it in the summer
this time of year is the best time to strip a car
 
bobsp16 said:
give you abit of advice with the tar,take all the seats carpet out then just wait untill you have had a good frost over night then smack it from under neath upwoods with a hammer and it will come off a peace of ####.dont try to do it in the summer
this time of year is the best time to strip a car
Click to expand...

great idea bob, ill give that a go, any more tips and tricks on what panels i can cut or other stuff i can take off without harming the structural intergeraty of the car.

this is going to be a road going car so i cant take everything off, im going to cable tie the bumpers in place and do away with the metal bar though
 
Lightweight

Just a few ideas:
Obviously the lightest model in the range is the one to go for, or strip down your car to that level. Think of all the optional extras you could live without:
sunroof
boot release
radio, speakers and Ariel
left wing mirror
rear wash wipe
clock
mud flaps
alloy wheels or plastic hubcaps
cigarette lighter (getting really desperate now)
etc, etc

Once that is done here are a few other parts that can be removed that haven’t already been mentioned:
Sound insulation behind dash.
If the rear seats and seatbelts go, there are two metal plates that are bolted in the boot where the inertia real belts bolt to.
Interior panelling next to rear seats (also good for storing tow rope etc, down there).
Glove box lid.
Boot lid interior panel.
Plastic trim around wing mirrors, door handles etc.
There are lots of plastic ducts inside the dash that you don’t really need, just the ones for demisting the windscreen should be sufficient.
Door cards can have the vinyl covering stripped off or be totally replaced with another sheet of that thin fibre board stuff. I don’t think aluminium would actually be lighter.
Roof lining and maybe the passenger sun shade thingy.
Most Micra exhaust systems have three silencers, a custom two silencer system might save some weight. If it was a side exit system it would be shorter too.
Lose the jack and spare wheel and substitute a can of tyre weld.
Boot lid door handle (you can shut it by grabbing hold of the ‘tits’, [did I just say that?])
With the wiper motor and the interior panel gone from the boot lid you might be able to lose one of the lifting struts?

Anyone got any other ideas?
 
cheers for the ideas, ive alread got all the tar off the floor which didnt even make 5KG, i got a lot of useless random stuff out of the dash like the carpet, recirculating duct and other ducts and backets etc. and removed the two bits of plastic which hold the parcel shelf on and it all weighed to 7KG together so that makes a total of 17.16KG so far which isnt that good considering ive basically striped the interior.

the next step is to get perspex windows and remove the metal out of the bumpers and lose rear wiper and all unnecessary wireing, i might have dash off and get the metal out of that, but thats a last resort.

i suppose if i get 5 stone out of the car that might be noticable, hopefully i can get the car down to 600kg, ill be happy at that.

ill get some pics up on the weekend
 
i wouldnt bother. Tings in K10's are that light anyway it will make little difference. Instead you'll just look like an idiot because you've ruined your car in the process and it's still essentially slow.
 
true, very true, the micra is a slow ass car, in the future im hoping to get this to handle well, ill be upgrading the suspention next and really looking into fitting a more powerful engine, even a E series n/a engine would be a upgrade and they can be had for not a lot of dollars, the option i am going to go for is a CA series engine.

also looking into buying a pipe bender, if i can loose enough weight to counteract the extra weight of a roll cage would you think it is a good idea?
 
not being funy mate, but if you want to be quucker, why not get a 1.3 K11? Theres a whole range of 'off the shelf parts, and have proven time again to take the BHP to around 100 instead of 72.

If your going to go to the hastle of putting a non K10 engine into a K10, you might as well make it worthwhile. The E series is even more antiquated that the MA series is.

Why not to for a carb'd 1.6 primera engine then run it on a pair of twin 40's? Saves all the grief of wiring, but will be more powerful.
 
i dont really like k11's(personal preferance), i think there ghey, the car cost me £500 and i think the k10 looks better than the k11, im not going to sell on the car so im going to be the last owner so im not worried about the car looking like a state, the other point is im not bothered if i take the angle grinder to a k10, id have second thoughts about doing it to a t reg k11 though. It would be quite easy to make it look like its untouched the main think you can see thats gone is the carpet. lets face it its not like the k10 1.0 LS has got a decent interior anyway, i think ive done it a favour by chucking it in the bin and putting some bucket seats in.

this isnt a therad on how i think the micra is the fastest car in the world and now ive stripped it out i can beat that new bugatti thing, its the lightest car Nissan has made, there are light datsuns to be had though


back on the engine, there are a few people that have put ga16's in the k10 but theres no good info like "you have to get this hub and this wishbone and this bracket and weld this up" etc. its all going to be new to me, it would be no easier putting a ga in to a ca or a sr.

if someone could tell me what parts i need i would probably go for a ga as its the most common newest engine

hopefully when you see the final pics of it you will like the style slim
 
right then, as far as i know for a GA16 conversion:

Completly ditch all MA engine and gearbox components, but, keep the driveshafts.

Drop the GA16 engine and box in.

At this point, you need to make the driveshafts up. Split both sets of shafts, Use the inboard GA16 shaft and the outboard MA shaft. Apparantly it works well, and you have no compatability issues.

All you have to do then is a little wiring, i.e. alternator, starter motor, water temp sensor, oil pressure sensor and wire in the GA16 coil. All other wiring shouldn't need to be touched. However, you may need to add an electric fuel pump, depending if the GA16 carb'd engine has a mechanical pump or not.

Sort all your engine mounts out and fabricate an exhaust. On the subject of engine mounts, I believe the GA16's front and rear mounts are on a huge bar which is like an engine subframe. I believe the rear of this bolts into the rear K10 mounting, and the front of it can simply be bolted up to the front cross member. Then you just need to cut and weld on the side mountings as appropriate.

Uprated K10 suspension should be perfectly fine, but you might want to upgrade the brakes, in which case get hold of a set of K11 hubs and put them on, and then you can use the GTiR front brake set up.

Thats about it i think?

That is, of course, that your using an aftermarket carb set-up such as twin 40's or the 32/34 DMTL direct replacement, other wise you've got to mess about wiring in the EFI system or the standard nissan carb.
 
great advice slim mate, we need someone in the know like that, ive only dealt with the CA series engine myself.

its funny that the shafts fit into the GA's inner cv joint and the spider assembly is the same size as the MA shafts. is there a issue with the length of the MA shafts?, im thinking that at least one might need shortening as the block and gearbox is going to be larger..

what engine is the best donor for the micra, there are bound to be diffrences to the crossmember between cars, on the CA's there are two types one is quite similar to the MA, a rear mount near gear box, front mount connected to lower front panel, top gearbox mount and the top engine mount, the other type is a fairly large crossmember one piece.

i take it there diffrent bhp levels of ga the sunny ga the primera ga and the primera sri ga

cheers
 
Slim said:
right then, as far as i know for a GA16 conversion:

Completly ditch all MA engine and gearbox components, but, keep the driveshafts.

Drop the GA16 engine and box in.

At this point, you need to make the driveshafts up. Split both sets of shafts, Use the inboard GA16 shaft and the outboard MA shaft. Apparantly it works well, and you have no compatability issues.

All you have to do then is a little wiring, i.e. alternator, starter motor, water temp sensor, oil pressure sensor and wire in the GA16 coil. All other wiring shouldn't need to be touched. However, you may need to add an electric fuel pump, depending if the GA16 carb'd engine has a mechanical pump or not.

Sort all your engine mounts out and fabricate an exhaust. On the subject of engine mounts, I believe the GA16's front and rear mounts are on a huge bar which is like an engine subframe. I believe the rear of this bolts into the rear K10 mounting, and the front of it can simply be bolted up to the front cross member. Then you just need to cut and weld on the side mountings as appropriate.

Uprated K10 suspension should be perfectly fine, but you might want to upgrade the brakes, in which case get hold of a set of K11 hubs and put them on, and then you can use the GTiR front brake set up.

Thats about it i think?

That is, of course, that your using an aftermarket carb set-up such as twin 40's or the 32/34 DMTL direct replacement, other wise you've got to mess about wiring in the EFI system or the standard nissan carb.
Click to expand...


what engine is the ga16 out of sound good for a bifferent class to race in
 
I truly think that a GA16(DE) would be super in a K10. Its another project on my wish list I would like to do :) I would uprate the brakes before I did anything though haha.
 
Ed said:
I truly think that a GA16(DE) would be super in a K10. Its another project on my wish list I would like to do :) I would uprate the brakes before I did anything though haha.
Click to expand...

which car is this engine in ed..and whats the standard power of this unit
 
Primera 1.6 MPI version. Around 100bhp and easy to get more.
 
is this the same engine its in a 1998 NISSAN ALMERA 1.6 SRI the 100bhp one
24-0c_1_b.jpg.
 
Yes. :)

Wikipedia said:
GA16DE

The GA16DE is a 1.6 L (1597 cc) engine produced from November 1990 through 1997. All GA16DEs had 16 valves and DOHC heads. There are two versions, the VTC, which produced 115 hp (85 kW) and 108 ft·lbf (146 Nm) and a non-VTC version (European-spec) which made 102 hp (76 kW).

Applications:
* Nissan Sentra B13
* 1991-1994 Nissan Presea R10
* 1995-1996 Nissan Presea R11
* 1995-1999 Nissan Sentra B14
* 1995-1999 Nissan 200SX B14
* 1995-1999 Nissan Almera N15

GA16DS

Applications:

* Nissan Primera P10
Click to expand...
 
so does anyone know which car is the best to use for the donor, n14 or p10 p11 or n15 or b13? im only interested in the crossmember and mounting on the g/box, want one that is as close as you can get to a k10 fitment

cheers
 
pass on this I'm afraid :) I would go for what ever turned up first.
 
i suppose i could get a whole p10 for cheap, like under £100 and if the subframe is completely diffrent the best bet is to source a n14 subframe, or just look at it and measure and see if thats any better.

back to topic, just removed the metal from the bumbers which weighed 6.5kg, bring loss to date of 23.66KG, still a lot to go to get up to 50KG, i think its going ot be mega hard now to get it up to 50, windows are next to go for perspex, ill see how heavy all that stuff is
 
I had my ST put on motorsport scales with a totally stripped interiour. It weighed 720KG Excluding me.
 
no the wheel is still in there and the jack and tools etc.

thats surprising ed, to be honest i dont know how much say a 1.2 super s or a gsx weighs i would have though a st would be close to these figures but a lill higher i would have though due to turbines and superchargers and arb's and other goodies, i only have figures for a 1.0 which is 660KG for a base 3dr and 675KG for a SGL 3dr
 
i havent got any tyre weld yet, when i get some ill take the wheel out, its a nice wheel though, never ever been used and still shiny silver from the factory

im bored of the ma now, all this talk of a ga has got me thinking, will make it up to hot hatch status then
 

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