K10 1.2 Super S EGR leftovers...

Shaun

Shaun

***StaGGeRed***
Ok so removed the EGR system over the weekend with the help of mckenziecz and to our suprise it was quite simple and quick. however we are now left with some odd ends that the guide on the forum does not show :( any help would be appreciated.

EngineBay3.jpg


EngineBay4.jpg


EngineBay5.jpg


EngineBay.jpg


EngineBay2.jpg


and yes the engine bay is still rusty :p
thankyou!!
 
does the car start and run?

the 2 connectors in the second pic look like the inlet temp sensor connectors, did you not fit them into the new inlet mani like we spoke about?
 
it also looks like you will have a water leak soon is you dont sort that pipe out across the front of the engine
 
superls said:
does the car start and run?

the 2 connectors in the second pic look like the inlet temp sensor connectors, did you not fit them into the new inlet mani like we spoke about?
Click to expand...
Don't remember discussing it :( and there is nowhere on the "new" inlet to connect it to?
also haven't started it yet but will try today...

superls said:
it also looks like you will have a water leak soon is you dont sort that pipe out across the front of the engine
Click to expand...
if you are referring to my huge radiator rust pipe i am fully aware :) alot will be sourced from the scrappies :)

thankyou for helping again
 
oh thought we did, you will need to fit them, althought it doesnt mention it in the guide, ive got a feeling you will need to fit them in it, you may have to drill and tap them.
 
superls said:
oh thought we did, you will need to fit them, althought it doesnt mention it in the guide, ive got a feeling you will need to fit them in it, you may have to drill and tap them.
Click to expand...

Ok so say I have to put them in what was the point of me changing the inlets in the first place? Confuses me. Also any idea what the other bits are?
Thanks again shaun
 
anyone else wanna shed some light on the leftover bits? will double check haynes manual too to see if they are mentioned.

thanks again people
 
Shaun said:
anyone else wanna shed some light on the leftover bits? will double check haynes manual too to see if they are mentioned.

thanks again people
Click to expand...

can you post a pic of the 2 sensors that the leftover wires went to shaun ? (a water temp sensor is needed for the eccs to work properly surely ?)
 
i wouldnt know what i would like to know is however wrote that guide missed a big bit! :p
will go over the garage in a sec and check it out and snap some more photos of the old manifold etc...

thankyou everyone....
 
the reason you put a non cat manifold on is so you dont have to block the bole up where the egr stuff went, i guess its deemed easier to drill for the sensors rather than block a massive hole up where the gas valve went.

at a guess id say one ot the connectors are for the egr valve,
 
superls said:
the reason you put a non cat manifold on is so you dont have to block the bole up where the egr stuff went, i guess its deemed easier to drill for the sensors rather than block a massive hole up where the gas valve went.

at a guess id say one ot the connectors are for the egr valve,
Click to expand...

hmmm ok does anyone know of someone (possibly the person that wrote the guide) that took this off and fixed this because say i do need to drill tap im confused as to where and how to drill tap etc. but will get pics in a bit of everything and let the puzzle continue. :p

thanks again!
 
well we couldnt get the sensor out as its an 18mm and didnt have that to hand :( and adjustables just wouldnt cut it, will have another bash at it again at some point.
and i dunno if your sensor plan will work but there is more than just one clip left over :(

thankyou frank!
 
dont worry about any EGR valves/connectors shaun, but you need that coolant temp sensor tho (for the ECCS) i,ve got k11 ones if you,re stuck :grinning:
 
watch the youtube videos frank you'll see the engine literally dies it doesnt sound like it wants to run.... :(
it does start though....
 
its hard to tell shaun, was that on tickover or were you trying to keep it running ?.
it depending how its configured but i think the ecu will either give it full choke or no choke at all without that coolant temp sensor fitted
 
what id do first to try is, when you remove the sensor from the manifold, plug it into the connector, cos is sounds choked up to me, and if the sensors not connected it open circuit so it will think its really cold and pump more fuel in.

the manifold is smoking cos of the new paint and oil etc on it, it will stop after a couple of mins when its been warm
 
we thought that smoke gotta be paint and other crap on the manifold, but there is also some kind of blowing sound. so we'll see about that. need to remove that sensor and try it tomorrow, will let you know. cheers guys
 
yeah sounds like the exhaust isnt mating with the block properly but suppose it might be slightly miss aligned but yeah will have a crack at that coolant sensor idea frank,
Thanks again! speak to you tomorrow evening on this subject :)
 
That rubber pipe sticking out of the chassy leg on the right hand side will come out with a wiggle and a tug, it was the drainage pipe for the fuel vapor collector (black box) that you have removed. Also one of your connectors may be for the boost sensor, and the fuel vapor gasses and exhaust gasses that are fed into the inlet are controlled electronically so you will have wires for those. If you are running the engine without the airbox on, make sure you plug up the vaccum pipes the connect to the bi-metal valves in the airbox, or they will throw your mixture out (make it very lean) and kill the engine.
 
ok thanks porkpie will take the vapor pipe out tomorrow then if its useless now, will be going over it again tomorrow and let everyone knows how it goes, (Y)
 
right today's issues one is i have to blame on superls! probably didnt realise as we all make mistakes just a minor problem of a hole causing all this noise!
if you keep your foot on the gas lightly it will sit there quit happily idiling as soon as you take it off after say 30secs it will choke and die. will try and fit the sensor into the coolant pipe on the back of the inlet tomorrow as we need to get hold of an 18mm which my fairly basic tool set doesnt consist of!
anyways videos of it running sounds awesome with the hole blocked!
video one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ee6SFdeVHAo
video of the problem hole:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zk3GRxFWqbI

will try to weld this hole up with the help of mckenziecz and his welding skills :p
thanks for all the help so far im sure it will run again we havent given up yet!
 
think its just down to the fact there is more air than fuel is what it seems like to me anyways....
 
frank said:
have you taken it for a rip yet shaun ? :wasntme:
Click to expand...
no because the MOT and insurance ran out thats why it was off the road to sort out the exhaust and EGR system but i really cant wait for it to be honest i'm sure the little bits i have cleaned up and with the new manifold i have got at least 300hp on it now :D i wish i just cant wait for the day where its sorted and i can enjoy it!

EDIT: at least my door cards look good now :p
 
IT'S ALIVE! (Y)
Tried to T-junction the temp sensor and Oh yes a big thankyou to mckenziecz for all the help and the lovely blue hose! It starts and idles ok had to adjust the carb a little bit this is what we are thinking now as the idle is still a bit rough.
Battery partially flat as it's been sitting for a week or two
timing needs to be sorted out?
Carb needs adjustment properly.
Sounds about right? Will get a video up tomorrow cheers for everyones help!
 
Ok so been down the scrap yard today... in the rain! got a carb off put it on... waiting for tomorrow to do the adjustments etc. and all being well should run nice and smooth so wish us luck!
oh and heres a picture of the inside of a 18year old engine:
DSCF1425.jpg

not bad eh? (Y)
 

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