J.Starr's R420 SR

[J.Starr]

This blog is written for myself,yourself,anyone and the me that was 4 years ago when i bought my first k11 micra, I'm not mechanically trained, i am a self taught/trying enthusiast, who still doesn't know a lot, but is happy to try anything and do anything to my micras. This blog is designed to be understood by the even more noob me starting out 4 years ago, who didn't even know how to change a headlight bulb, so i hope you enjoy it, learn from it, and can help me whilst I'm still learning myself


So I've decided that after previously owning 3 K11's, doing bits, going to shows and enjoying it all, I've finally found an SR and a beautiful one, which is the perfect candidate to be done properly and perfectly.
This thread is brand new and i will add to it as i go on, the car has only just been bought so progress and photos will be slow but it will be a little journey, and FYI this is more for me so i don't forget what I'm doing and how it looked and i can keep track of it in one place and obviously to show and help in any way i can!
So all feedback and help appreciated... Lets get started!
Below, is the little monster on the garage forecourt, in its prime, 1.3, manual,48k genuine MOT miles,electric windows,central locking,rear pop out windows, colour coded bumpers w/front original fog-lights,sunroof,rev counter clocks,boot lights,original parcel shelf w/working speakers,front pillar tweeter speakers, rear seat pockets,headlight protectors (Purchase date 5/4/16)
Also apologies to anyone who saw it in general discussion, i didn't know about this side of the forum.

 

[Andy5077]

Hi mate she is a beauty you should buy a grit blasted shiny rocker cover off davyboy it would look great in the engine bay! B-) https://www.micra.org.uk/index.php?threads/66498/

 

[MaxK11C]

Hi Josh, I've deleted your other thread.

This looks absolutely fantastic, id be inclined to keep this stock, but that's just me!

 

[J.Starr]

H

Hi Josh, I've deleted your other thread.

This looks absolutely fantastic, id be inclined to keep this stock, but that's just me!

Hi Max! ahh spot on, was hoping someone would! so thank you
ahh, its majorly mixed views, but I'm afraid I'm gonna have to disappoint, got some big plans, but don't worry i will do my absolute best to keep it looking as good as it does now!

 

[J.Starr]

So, today was the day, 1hr30min drive to manchester to pick up the SR.
Could barely contain my excitement the whole way there :')
Drove it back, fully legal, engine is sound, and gearbox is solid, tires all good, pretty much everything works.
Noticed a few slight problems, but mostly knew about anyway;
1.OSF driveshaft is knocking loudly on corners, so will have to be replaced ASAP
2. rear window demister doesn't appear to work, but could be switch as no condensation to completely rule it as broken
3.front door speakers and tweeter pillar speakers don't work, but pressume radio wiring/connections, will swap to my own head unit tomorrow and see how it goes.
Didn't manage to get anything done to it today, don't want to rush, gave her a deep wash and dry to get her to my picky standards :') but happy overall, will do thorough inspection tomorrow and fully update.
(Picture below is after wash, next to my most recent, but unfortunately dirty Sheree)

 

[J.Starr]

 

[J.Starr]

Very slow progress, besides the clean, couldn't detail due to rain and no cover :/ but managed to swap a few bits over, so far progress is noob AF, but had a job interview and a short bit of time, so felt like swapping my little bits over to make it feel more homely, nothing major, JDM dash pod, dildo gear-knob, rear view mirror crap complete with typical lei :')
Thursday is a turn around day, using the garage to swap over driveshafts, putting the power flow on the SR, and planning to drain all fluids and perform general service, at least then I'm happy and know everything as standard is clean and running completely smooth!
Will check back and post when all complete!

 

[Clodo]

Hey Josh looking forward to seeing where you take this
Really nice clean base can't believe the low mileage what an awesome buy!!
Hope the interveiw went well!!
Does this mean Sheree is going?
Once again looking great
Xxx

 

[J.Starr]

Hey Josh looking forward to seeing where you take this
Really nice clean base can't believe the low mileage what an awesome buy!!
Hope the interveiw went well!!
Does this mean Sheree is going?
Once again looking great
Xxx

Hi Chloe!
Thank you vey much! I'm very excited about this one, with such a good starting point i can get to it pretty much straight away! couldn't believe the mileage, genuine 2 lady owners from new :') v5c/2 confirmed!
Atm Sheree is staying and being the donor car, but is being kept as a fully working car to potentially sell on, going to keep her for a bit just incase anything does happen though
and the interview went great thank you, sounding very promising!
xx

 

[Clodo]

I can definitely see why you're excited
Blimey that's awesome! definitely looks like its been loved

That sounds a good ideah will definitely be handy

Glad the interview went well good luck!!
Xxx

 

[J.Starr]

Nearly sort out day, so getting ready, but managed to spend some time washing and giving it the first polish i think its ever had :/ unfortunately i think its first owner garage kept it and the second left it to the elements :/ so theres a wierd rough spotty coating on most of the paint and unforutanley some patches have gone white, so gave her a fully detailed wash with a spray of juicy details arctic snow foam with my hand foamer and then a deep wash with juicy details apple bomb suds, then a dry with a direct detailing drying towel!
Then left it to dry for 15, then took to a good solid coat of auto glym super resin polish. Everyone goes on about waxes and don't get me wrong i have waxes and do use them, but this by far leaves the best finish I've seen. A good coat and a drying time of 30 mins, i took to a clean microfibre to buff the dried polish off, waited a few more minutes then gave it a second buff. Amazing shine, and has taken some blemishes away and reduced the severe key scratch marks, very happy today, will need many more and a clay bar, but ver happy with the paintwork progress so far!

 

[J.Starr]

Good Morning fellow micra lovers yesterday was a great day, managed to get a lot done, feel a lot better and safer now!
So started off by getting both cars there and getting them arranged so we could jack both up in the garage so we didn't get wet.. not enough room so the SR had to stick out, but still managed and it didn't rain at all Phew! :')
So lets start with the first thing i managed to get done: Driveshaft!
This was my main concern for the day, as the old one was really sounding rough, heavy knocking and jumping. If anything like the red one, we would soon have a pretty big problem!
Obviously budget is tight, with having no job, so all resources have to be used... E.g Sheree the red beast
Both cars were jacked up deep underneath on the sway bar bush, also to potentially keep as much gearbox oil in as possible the red one was jacked a lot higher, as i wasn't replacing the gearbox oil in the red one, but will top up to correct amount when driveshafts swapped over.
(Ill go through each bit in as much detail as possible, as some people know more or less than others)

Note: Before jacking up, do loosen your wheel nuts a slight bit, so that when up in the air they don't just spin whilst you try to take them off.
Once loosened, i raised the car to a decent height to allow underneath clearance for myself and to release any tension.
Then i removed my wheel and placed it to one side, keeping all the wheel nuts + the locking wheel nut safe for later.
Before removing the centre nut, which releases and keeps in the one end of the drive shaft, i tried to loosen a bolt behind the calliper to give me more movement on the hub, as it turns out, the split pin was welded to it with rush, and unfortunately the actual nut size was a rusty size somewhere between 18mm+19mm.. so quick decision, left that one and moved up to the two bolts that attach the hub the the bottom of the suspension damper, before removing them i removed the centre nut and large washer, to release the driveshaft from the centre of the hub, then removed the two bolts from the bracket as seen below. ( please see rust attached below )

Once this far, the driveshaft was loose at the hub end but obviously still inside the gearbox. Not wanting to make a mess i placed a catch tray underneath, to catch the oil from the gearbox.
The driveshaft won't pop straight out of the gearbox, it may feel a little stuck, but with a bit of pressure and maybe some gentle persuasion, there should be a suction like click, and it should come free, this is also when any oil will flow. Now put broken driveshaft to one side.

 

[J.Starr]

I followed the same procedure on the red micra, and extracted the driveshaft, as it was in perfect condition, and still has 1000's of miles left.
With the good condition driveshaft ready, i pushed the bulkier end into the gearbox (note:the end going into the gearbox has a nearly fully inset circlip on the end, which keeps it inlace inside the box, the end going into the hub has a hole right on the end ready for a split pin. With a little force, you should hear a click in the box, if struggling, keep moving around and applying pressure and it should catch and click into place ( this can be a little fiddly) Once in, more the other end of the driveshaft back through the centre of the hub, you should feel the splines slip into place, and it should protrude the other side to place the large centre nut back on. Once again, move it about if struggling to fit into place, but make sure it all slips in properly.
Now i was ready to push it back, i moved the hub towards the box, to make sure i had good movement, then with some copper grease on the original bolts, i replaced them and fixed the hub, back onto the suspension damper and fully tightened then into place using my torque wrench.
( During all this i did take to a wire brush, to remove some of the surface rust, and sprayed a little WD40 just to keep a bit of water resistance.
Now make sure to place the large washer back over the centre of the hub, and using a torque wrench i tightened the nut back into place, securing this end of the driveshaft.
(during take off, i damged the split pin, but its not problem to find a similar sized one and re-cut to fit.
Then Put your wheel back on, lower it down and fully torque the wheel nuts.
During all this i drained the gearbox of all oil, Also after finishing this, i found the drain pipe that leads into the gearbox, and filled the gearbox oil up to full, which was 3.4l i believe.

 

[Agent_Sm1th]

Coming along eh. Looks good. It's 2.8-3.0 litres of gbox oil by the way. I shall be following your progress.

 

[J.Starr]

So next part: I wanted to change the standard exhaust on my SR to the custom made powerflow 2nd cat back system which has been passed down through the micra generations.
This was a relatively simple art to my day, only little snag was grinding the bolts off the heat shield on the original exhaust due to the magical rust :')
Since the car was still up in the air, there was no problem in reaching all of it.
After un-doing the bolts from the back box's regina falange, i only had the middle section left, this was where the grinding came in as you can see below:

Once removed i was left with this:

Now this is the original box off the exhaust, un be known to me, there was a tear in it, and the inside are corroded, as a load of rusty metal fell out of the tail pipe, and still exists inside

The same procedure was done on the red K11, to remove my system, which also gave me a cheeky opportunity to polish the old girl, 4 years on and she doesn't look to bad! Note: Juicy Details metal polish was used to polish my power flow box. Below is my power flow systems ready to go on:

Using a small, but complete line of black gasket sealant, on both sides of the connections regina falange, i bolted the centre section of the exhaust to near tight, keeping the gaskets equal. The back box is slightly different to the original as the middle section has a lightly larger bore and the back box has a slightly smaller bore, so that it slips inside and fixes with the tightening of a jubilee clip, then with a wipe and a quick spray of WD40 i re-attached all the hangars and hung the back box onto its hangers. once in place i tightened everything for a second time to make sure it wasn't loose and hopefully wouldn't blow in the centre. I then turned on the engine to check if it was blowing, it wasn't so i was happy and it now sounds even better on the sound 1.3 SR.
Bearing that in mind, it sits better in the bumpers, and fills in the bumper cutout perfectly, more than happy with how it turned out.

 

[J.Starr]

Coming along eh. Looks good. It's 2.8-3.0 litres of gbox oil by the way. I shall be following your progress.

Thanks man!
ahh thats it, it was yesterday and slipped my mind, knew i wasn't far away :')
hope you like it!

 

[J.Starr]

Yesterday i wasn't sure how the front heat shield/bracket was going to sit, as i seem to find on every micra I've had, I've had to remove it, this micra is the front shield, the red was the underside of the gearbox.
Yesterday, it seemed to be perfect after a small cut with some tin snips, but as it turns out, its still loose and makes the car fall apart..
Only problem is the weather has been terrible today and I've lacked motivation to get it up, i will try and re fix it, if it still rattles i can only decide to remove it.

 

[J.Starr]

Last but not least, i wanted to do a full service so that i know whats been changed, when, and I'm happy with how it runs.
It ran pretty well beforehand, but no harm in new bits.
So as i think i stated before, gearbox oil was drained during driveshaft swap, being up on the jack helped the full amount drain out, and re filled with new oil through sump plug (fill was directed in carlube as 2.8l)
Due to swapping oil filter, i unscrewed the filter and let the old oil drain into my catch tray, when putting the new filter on, i used my finger to run a small line of fresh oil around the edge to help with a seal, then screwed it up tight and i was ready to drop the car down.
Before putting the new oil in, i swapped the plugs, to brand new NGK plugs ( http://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/1042809 ) using a small ratchet with plug extension.
When placing the new ones, i tightened them all hand tight, then turned each one the same amount of times until they were sat perfect. Once finished i placed my new magnecor ignition leads to help aid with better ignition. NOTE; when swapping leads, do each one individually so that you know the correct firing positions on the dizzy, otherwise it will causes problems and most likely won't start

Then with a brand new bottle 10W40, i filled the engine to 3.0l and checked the dipstick after each litre to make sure i wasn't over the maximum line. ( i had to suck a little out, but not a problem)
Finally a WIX fuel filter, very simple, unscrew jubilee clips, take old one off the two hoses, don't get them mixed up, hold fingers over both ends of fuel filter to stop fuel spilling out and empty into a nearby bottle or catch tray, if old enough, the fuel may be discoloured/dirty. Then fix the new filter in the exam same way, turn the ignition on, let the fuel prime and fill the filter, then proceed to start.
I was now finished, and happy with the days work!
Feel like I've written a short story here, but i like to get all the bits in!
Will add links to bits later on, obviously these are personal ways of doing things, everyone can differ.
Small progress, but safe progress, very happy for now!

 

[J.Starr]

I checked out why my front fogs don't work, after unscrewing them, i realised they weren't plugged in, i found the wiring and connected them, but still no prevail.
After looking around the forum, i noticed different models had different ways of turning them on, mine has neither so i took to eBay, and found myself a set of buttons, with the fog light button, hopefully will find wiring, if not, ill have to sort something else out, will keep posted on how these go.

 

[J.Starr]

Also, please enjoy a small photo dump of both K11's and some randoms whilst i was doing blog pictures

 

[MaxK11C]

Looking good, that SR is so clean!

 

[joesouthgate]

Looks good mate

I checked out why my front fogs don't work, after unscrewing them, i realised they weren't plugged in, i found the wiring and connected them, but still no prevail.
After looking around the forum, i noticed different models had different ways of turning them on, mine has neither so i took to eBay, and found myself a set of buttons, with the fog light button, hopefully will find wiring, if not, ill have to sort something else out, will keep posted on how these go.View attachment 48011

They are driving lights in the super s and sr and as a result do not come with a switch. They should only come on with main beam.

 

[J.Starr]

Looking good, that SR is so clean!

Thanks mate! Gonna do my best to keep it that clean

 

[J.Starr]

Looks good mate



They are driving lights in the super s and sr and as a result do not come with a switch. They should only come on with main beam.

Thanks Joe!
Ahh right, I see, I'll go check that now, thanks for the info bud!

 

[J.Starr]

So another very productive day, and a very proud self! :')
On my little list of things i wanted done, before any major work commences and i put my own spin on the SR, i had;
1.Heater controls didn't work on numbers 1-3=smallest dot increasing, but worked on full whack number 4 only
2.Stereo headunit/face was horrible, and wasn't to my taste and preferred my own, but wires had been bodged and made to fit an adapter with an in-line fuse.
3.Heat shield on downpipe to start of middle section was rattling, and making a terrible sound. Note: this had already been fixed by previous owners but was now too rusty and moved way to much.

The heat shield was a simple take off, jack the car up, unscrew a few 10mm bolts, if needs be, use a grinder then yank, twist and pull and it should come of. (didn't get any pictures as was a small job)

*HEATER RESISTOR CARD*
This one was a nice little job, after reading through a few forums and trying to find out why, everything pointed to the heater resistor card.
So i spent a few minutes searching as i could find any pictures, and WITHOUT removing the glove box itself, i pushed myself into the foot well and had a search with a torch, to my prevail i found what at first i thought was the card and then realised it must be.
To FIND the card, push your head into the footwell and at the back just under the glove box on the left hand side as picture, it will be held in by 2 silver bolts with posi terminals, and there will be a connecter push fit block with a few wires sticking out. (see pictures below)
Un plug the connectors, and unscrew the two bolts, then with minimal force the card should nearly feel like its fallen out.
*Pictures below are location and what you are looking for*

This is what the cards look like, the first is the second hand card that works from my donor car, not in terrible condition, but not brand new, but the point is that it works:

and this is the card from my SR, notice the rust, and what looks like a rusted and split connection, which has most likely caused the problem:

Once inserted and screwed back together with the push fit connectors plugged back in the correct way, i turned the car on and tried the heating controls which now all work, on each individual speed! Very happy, since I'm sick of feeling like I'm in a hurricane on number four :')

 

[J.Starr]

Next i moved onto my mess of a stereo :/
For some reason, the 'wiring harness' that connected the headunit already in the SR had been hardwired/crimped onto the original OEM wiring, and an inline fuse had been put in place. Unfortunately, the jobsworth who managed to mess it up, managed to only allow the parcel shelf speakers to work with the front door and pillar tweeters not working.
The crimps used were just half splicers, which made it a little easier to remove the wiring harness in place and return it to normal. Note: the two female plug connectors weren't in use, the harness was the only thing plugged in.
I managed to get two different head units to work, using my wiring harness on the outstanding plugs.
After removing the harness and plugging in my wiring harness to match the headunit, all from halfrauds but passed down through generations, i turned it on, reset everything, and now can happily say that all speakers work and my stereo works!

 

[J.Starr]

Big progress is coming soon, and some
New parts are being ordered from Japan as I wrote this' update soon

 

[J.Starr]

Magnecor Leads!

 

[J.Starr]

Evening sweet peas, done a tiny bit today, was completely bored and the rain called off all rust treatment, ironic So I took out the battery tray, wire brushed sanded and primed! Paint tomorow.

Just wondering if anyone sees this, I'm looking into getting new wheels, but the centre bore on the aftermarket one is 67.1mm and Im sure the k11 centre bore is 59.1? Would It solve the gap using spigot rings like the ones pictures below? And if anyone can point me in the direction of any more durable ones that would be great!

 

[MikeHP]

I looked into metal spigot rings when fitting my aftermarket wheels but quickly decided that it wouldn't be worth it at all for anything other than seriously extreme use. I'm using eBay specials like those pictured (mine cost less than the postage on the envelope, go figure how that's a sustainable business model) and the fit was nice & tight on both inner & outer diameters. Plus, mine are red for a stealthy +5bhp.

Maybe someone else has a horror story that'll make us both think again but til then I'm happy.

 

[J.Starr]

I looked into metal spigot rings when fitting my aftermarket wheels but quickly decided that it wouldn't be worth it at all for anything other than seriously extreme use. I'm using eBay specials like those pictured (mine cost less than the postage on the envelope, go figure how that's a sustainable business model) and the fit was nice & tight on both inner & outer diameters. Plus, mine are red for a stealthy +5bhp.

Maybe someone else has a horror story that'll make us both think again but til then I'm happy.

No way!! a whole 5BHP????? take my money :') aha
Glad someone else has used them!
thanks for the help mate, ill go ahead and buy some of those pov ones then!

 

[J.Starr]

Hi mate she is a beauty you should buy a grit blasted shiny rocker cover off davyboy it would look great in the engine bay! B-) https://www.micra.org.uk/index.php?threads/66498/

Ive just had a look at that rocker cover, its beautiful!
could have to be a purchase soon!

 

[J.Starr]

Looks good mate



They are driving lights in the super s and sr and as a result do not come with a switch. They should only come on with main beam.

Cheers for the info again Joe, just got a quick question, I've plugged them both in, as neither were connected and I've changed the lamps inside but they're still not working?
Is there a relay or something I'm missing?
Obviously with them coming on with main beam there's no switch on the stalk either, just not sure about relay?
Thanks mate!

 

[J.Starr]

Fog light issue all sorted, i was having one of my many blonde moments, tried to go all electrician head on it and didn't think to put them on full beam!

 

[karlj]

I made the same mistake when I bought mine

 

[J.Starr]

I made the same mistake when I bought mine

All credit does have to go to you Karl for helping me see the problem :')
glad im not the only one that its happened too

 

[karlj]

iirc credit should go to Frank for telling me lol

 

[J.Starr]

So a few updates to put on, nothing fantastic, but trying a few things!
1. Front bumper releases (need to buy back, tested water with front and really like them)
2. Engine bay hardware to match bumper releases
3. Petrol cap wrap (standard not original rising sun, but had the sticker for 2 years and it works with the black)
4. Rising Sun Retros Sticker
5. Fitted Team Dynamics Pro Race 3's (Toyo T1-R proves)
6. New brakefit discs and apes pads

Bumper releases are literally for show, little things not to everyones taste, but I've always liked them and decided to do them properly on this one, compared to the weird bonnet quick release idea i had that never would have worked
The good thing about the releases, as the car is still on standard wheels, so much offensive gap and the arch liners are pretty each to move out of the way.
To get a direct and close enough fitment, i assembled them together off the car using the two releases and the rubber band, but them over the split of the bumper and wing, slightly pulling them apart so that the band was no longer slack, which would help keep them on, then using a sharpie i marked the two holes through the centre of the releases,
Now came the devastating part, if you're not confident with drilling your car, PLEASE DO get help in doing so, there is NO SHAME in asking for help, after all we all want everything to look right, and asking for help doesn't mean you haven't 'built' your car! Sorry went off topic!
Using a 'spade' drill bit, (usually the point is the same thickness) i make a small guide hole http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-f...ping - Tools&gclid=CJ24l9mZyMwCFclsGwodgtkBLQ
Then using a 5.5mm metal bit http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-ground-hss-drill-bit-5-5mm-pack-of-5/48910 i fully drilled through, moving it around to give a small wiggle, i would probably recommend a 6mm bit, but i only had my 5.5 to hand.
Once drilled through use a file to take off the frayed metal, if you can't get a file in there, use some normal pliers to pull it away (doesn't have to be perfect)
Now push a bolt through each release and using the correct size allen key, wind in into each hole, the metal from the wing should act as a thread, the plastic will act as a thick close seal, so wind it into the wing and if needs be tap it into the plastic bumper.
Once through, fit one of the supplied nuts to each bolt, to make sure the are fully secured in place.
Once tight re fit your rubber band, make sure it is fitted in the 'figure of eight' look.
Perform same procedure on the other side, make sure measuring is done to exactly mirror each side, you should now have this :

 

[J.Starr]

iirc credit should go to Frank for telling me lol

Its a story through the generations, one to tell the grandkids :')
Well thanks Frank for telling Karl who told me!

 

[J.Starr]

Next was some gold engine bay hardware, both sets of hardware came from JDM Garage which were both fairly priced! (http://www.jdmgarageuk.com )
Simple to swap over, all you need is a posi, and a 8-10mm socket.
Simply take old bolts off and replace with new ones, Websites don't specify sizing, and I've used a few different brands on other micras and they all seem to fit, so must be a universal fitment! I think gold is the direction i want to go with this micra, so thats the way I've gone!

 

[J.Starr]

Next was everyones start up 'mod' of choice, the classic rising sun petrol cap!
Had this sticker for 2 years, and its spent 6 months in between some magazines at the misses and we found it the other day, so idea came, and with the SR having the pop lock boot and fuel cap, theres no annoying key hole to cut around on the fuel cap, so makes it even easier.
To take the fuel cap off, all you need once again is a posi, i have an impact driver with a posi bit in the end, helps if its rusted which mine was, taking it off also gave me an excuse to clean it, as i like to be OCD clean usually!
Taking the cap off also makes it easier to put whatever you want to on it, wraps, stickers, paint, makes life easier and takes 2 seconds.
After a a wash, dry, squirt of water, and a but of heat, this was the finished product, slightly bubbled, but got rid of as many as possible and folded the edges over into the back, happy with it atm, and from a distance you can't see the small bubbles that i can't get rid off!
This is the result, rising sun petrol cap in 10 mins!

 

[J.Starr]

As you can also see above, is my rising sun retros stickers!

 

[J.Starr]

Being the curious/impatient person i am, i thought with the sun out, what a better time but to try out and fit my Team Dynamics to the SR.
These are, Team Dynamics Pro Race 3's with k11 micra bore, and running 195/45/15 Toyo T1-R's, and these have been passed through the generations of my micras, and still hold their colour after a good iron bleeding!
As I've stated before the procedure of removing the wheels, which i listed above when swapping the driveshafts. Please be careful when jacking up, try and use stronger points underneath the car, and keep your sills intact!
Remember to loosen the wheel nuts a tiny bit before you jack the car up to make it easier for yourself when its up!
Im pretty happy with how they look, rather offended by the arch gap, but with having no job atm, ill have to deal with what I've got, but I'm still happy with how she looks!
Heres a photo dump, i got a little happy :')

 

[J.Starr]

Last was the front discs and pads, i didn't get many pictures as i wanted to get them done asap.
Ive been having trouble with the left side, theres a strange judder happening when slowing down, in gear and out of gear, also when not applying pressure to brakes and applying pressure, i was hoping new discs an pads would help, but it hasn't fully sorted it, help with the braking situation, but still feel it, so I'm presuming the other rusted/ corroded driveshaft that I'm yet to replace, looks like another 90 quid :/
So the new discs and pads, i had some help with, as I'm not particularly clued up on the procedure, so i went through it slowly, un doing the calliper, popping the pads out, removing the calliper itself and removing the disc, then with the calliper off, i opened up the brake fluid container, and slowly pushed the calliper piston back in making sure no fluid came out.
Gave the calliper a wire brush and the piston a quick clean with some carb cleaner.
Fitted the new discs and re-assembled the calliper with the new pads in, using a small brush of copper grease to 'secure' the inward facing sides of the pads.
Then proceeded to perform the same on the other side, re-fitted the wheels, dropped her down, and applied some pressure to the brakes to make sure the fluid was running round, the pedal now felt hard and fluid was running normally.
Bedding will just happen as and when i can drive it, petrol money is hard to find so the bedding will just have to be taken easy, so far they seem great already.

Left and right discs had severely different wear, right pad was fully touching face and evenly spread, where as let disc had a small 1.5cm shape in centre where the pad was just scoring the disc and ripping it to shreds.
Hoping this was the caused of the brake judder, which has significantly subsided, but as time stands, i was slightly disappointed with the drive after finishing and it still makes the restricted judder, going to order a driveshaft anyway and hope it works.

 

[J.Starr]

Please see a few random photos i took whilst doing everything, thought id show you my office too :')

 

[r-reg-sr]

r-reg registering in here. and the statement is "gold stuff is better than mould stuff "

 

[J.Starr]

r-reg registering in here. and the statement is "gold stuff is better than mould stuff "

This is absolute gold :') might have to make it part of the thread title :')

 

[J.Starr]

This judder/crunching is still there and its annoying me, i know the LHS driveshaft has started knocking and it will be replaced, but I've never had the same problem with any of my other broken driveshafts... Wheel bearing? a joint somewhere? perished bushes? also I've noticed when down shifting, the engine makes a squeaking sound? wether it the engine i couldn't be sure, but it squeaks?
Any had similar problems?

And I'm still annoyed i haven't found a name for the new girl yet

 

[r-reg-sr]

check out the rear engine mount . attaches to the gear box.

 

[Matiz]

Yeah, check them , I've got all 4 broken

Don't like the redstripe, but rims overall are great, they're based at Compomotive MO
Just buy the centric rings, you can check for alloy ones if you have huge disproportion in sizes. Some say they're more secure