How to replace rear enigine mount k11?

richardwbb

richardwbb

Hi there, I'm about to replace my rear engine mount but I never did this before. I have no second man for assistance but I do have a decent garage jack, air tools and two Nissan spare tire replacement jacks and since I will work on the floor I will need to use my four jack stands for raising the car.

Please tell me what is best, what to avoid and how many difficulty stars for getting that bolt that goes trough the mount out and in again?
 


Ignore the title, but this is a video that I watched a few months ago that showed the process for changing them over and also a comparison between the types of mounts you can buy and how they affect the car - was a good watch and may help you out with specifics and building the confidence to take it on
 
Okay, I watched the youtube and never knew Miata's are RWD but that isn't really the same is it? :p

And frank, so you advise me to put the jack under the gearbox and then I can remove the cross member?
 
richardwbb said:
Okay, I watched the youtube and never knew Miata's are RWD but that isn't really the same is it? :p

And frank, so you advise me to put the jack under the gearbox and then I can remove the cross member?
Click to expand...
support the diff with the jack to remove the through-bolt
then jack it up some more to access the other 2 bolts
 
Thank you frank. I will do this tomorrow. By removing the engine side motor mount I gained some confidence in engine raising and tilting and all those bolts have plenty of wiggle room and I missed that if my jack can jack up the car, jacking the engine is nothing to worry about.

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The waterpump has to be replaced also. I had to refill coolant once in a while and now it dripped a bit at the water pump.
 
I have no clue what o ring or steel pipe behind the water pump? Now I would like to learn frank, you tell me swapping a water pump for a new one might end up in still leaking? Or is it so that a new water pump has the o ring and steel pipe?
 
this one mate

Leak from heatercore hose to water pump.

Hi, today I found coolant dripping from what appears to be the hose connection to the water pump. I loosened the clamp and cut a portion of the hose and installed it back. However when I refill it with coolant dripping still occurs. Have checked the hose but no cuts or cracks. Have anyone...
www.micra.org.uk www.micra.org.uk
 
Ah I see. I was confused because by o ring I thought you meant the seal that prevents the axle that turns the water pump paddle wheel. But I also thought about this Nissan™ ring that works quite well but not at the point where the bolt seats and certainly not for 25 year old cars. Yes it leaked a bit there. Tightening it against common sense though worked. But I will need to wiggle it the least to replace the water pump. And my ring at that spot is refusing to loosen.

What is best when the rubber hose has it marks of this specific ring? Would a generic (full metal band) ring work? It will be easy to install but a crack in the hose is a disaster.
 
richardwbb said:
Ah I see. I was confused because by o ring I thought you meant the seal that prevents the axle that turns the water pump paddle wheel. But I also thought about this Nissan™ ring that works quite well but not at the point where the bolt seats and certainly not for 25 year old cars. Yes it leaked a bit there. Tightening it against common sense though worked. But I will need to wiggle it the least to replace the water pump. And my ring at that spot is refusing to loosen.

What is best when the rubber hose has it marks of this specific ring? Would a generic (full metal band) ring work? It will be easy to install but a crack in the hose is a disaster.
Click to expand...
If there's any slack in the hose, you could cut that end off and use a bit that doesn't have the dents on it, can also be easier than prising the old one off if it's completely rusted on there, or replace the whole hose

You can use hose clamps (sometimes called worm-drive clamps) in some lower pressure situations, depends where it's failing really
 
So you suggest if all else fails or is not an option I consider (like the hoses below the intake) I should take my chances with a common worm clamp?

I think I follow this up and now I remember I do have a lower radiator hose with a common worm clamp and that hose wasn't replaced. I'll check it out, it has be hanging there over ten years now so that tells me it can work.

I also bought a 'real' can of WD-40. The common WD-40 is multi purpose. It claims to do better then common WD-40 which isn't that bad according to serious testers on youtube. https://wd40.co.uk/specialist/fast-release-penetrant/
 
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