GA16 Conversion - Advice and Guidance.

[Glen]

if you use a 1.0 mount they are thinner so theres enough room to mount it. also frank im in birmingham at the moment for the next few weeks it would bee good to see your micra.

 

[SuluR]

OMG, that looks amazing glen.

Is that with the 1.3 gearbox or the 1.6? Is it possible to have a close up of the mounts and any other modifications you have done mate?

Your a genious (Y)

Cheers guys.

 

[Glen]

as i say im away at the moment back home in a few weeks will take pics of anything you want and it can be a 1.3 or a 1.6 gearbox as they 1.6 fits in a 1.3 micra anyways. i have also had my dad look at this as hes a time served mechanic who used to do mots and he says as its only brackets that are welded into original mounts then it will pass a mot no problem. There is also no chassi cutting and looks factory fit.

 

[Glen]

there will be more progress this summer on my car as i have finally got somewhere to work on it.

 

[frank]

also frank im in birmingham at the moment for the next few weeks it would bee good to see your micra.

no probs glen, but there,s not much to look at tbh :grinning:

 

[Glen]

be good to throw ideas about as well lol. only problem is im in the city centre and no car lol.

 

[SuluR]

Cheers mate. I would love to see a few closeups of what you did to the mounts So has no body tried it this way before? How would you fit the front mount on if the engines 20mm off?

Cheers

 

[Glen]

need to make a custom mount

 

[Glen]

anyone want to chat more about this conversion add [email protected]

 

[SuluR]

Added mate

 

[Stani1029]

cant you just move the centre member over that 20mm too?? might affect the linkages etc

 

[frank]

cant you just move the centre member over that 20mm too?? might affect the linkages etc

captive nuts welded into the floor eh stani, far easier to use a strip of 5mm plate to shift the rubber over imo (and welcome back to the darkside btw :grinning

 

[Glen]

for all it will take to make a front mount

 

[Stani1029]

captive nuts welded into the floor eh stani, far easier to use a strip of 5mm plate to shift the rubber over imo (and welcome back to the darkside btw :grinning

yeah i suppose and thanks another project begins!

 

[frank]

for all it will take to make a front mount

if you mean this front mount glen (on the left) then its a flimsy plastic one with 15mm of free float, and its only there to stop the diff dragging on the floor if the rear mount falls off (i ran mine for ages with the front mount removed :wasntme: )
and the rear mount just needs 2 sturdy strips to shift it over imo (gearchange rods shift with it)

 

[Stani1029]

frank what you waiting for, get it done. we know you can do this in 1 day

 

[frank]

frank what you waiting for, get it done. we know you can do this in 1 day

if they were an ally block i would have done it yonks ago stani :grinning: , GA,s are waaay too heavy for my liking i,m afraid

 

[Glen]

you done need the strips on the back keep it in the same place and ull see that there is enough space for the movement

 

[mikey]

if you look at the pictures you can see the parts that need work. as the engine has been moved over 20 mm then people say you need drive shafts. well this is not true as frank covered ealier in the thread there is about 40mm of space to play with on each shaft means that the original 1.3 shafts fit without modification. You only need to make a front mount but its not necessary to do this. hope this helps a few people.

I thought that first pic looked familiar...took me ages to figure it out!

 

[Glen]

i didnt think you would mind lol

 

[mikey]

Nah not at all! I can't believe i didn't recognize it though hehe, only been a couple of months

 

[SuluR]

So thats the mounts and shaft kind of sorted. WHat about gear linkages?

 

[NeX]

that all looks very awesome, but my problem was when taking a hard corner there was enough movement in the engine to allow grinding

 

[Stani1029]

im sure glen has plenty room for hard cornering and also arent your brackets triangular

 

[Glen]

loads of room and everything else bolts up

 

[NeX]

thats fair enough if there is loads of room, sounds like some interesting work too i want to know how it drives when its finished, if there is any torque steer or anything like that

 

[superls]

in my k10 cg10 stroker conversion theres about 3mm gap between the altenator pully and the chassis leg, ive only had it catch twice, and that was going some into a tight left hander under braking. so if you have between 5 and 10mm, imo you will have no problems whatso ever.

 

[Glen]

i can get my hand down between the water pump and the chassi leg

 

[SuluR]

Seems like a fair bit of clearance (Y) But does anyone know if the driveshafts will be able to cope with the 20mm change?

 

[Willpot1]

here,s a pic of one with a chassis cut

that seems an uneccacary ammount of cut out, why not just cut out a shallow curve to clear the pump? it wouldnt loose anywhere near as much as that does, that cannot be safe. plus a curve wouldnt have any sharp points for fractures to form along in the event of an impact.

 

[superls]

i would guess with the pic above, originally the engine would have been futher back, and brought forward later on in the project, as yes as you say the hole there looks unnecessary

 

[SuluR]

It may be to allow movement to the engine? Otherwise in heavy turning, acceloratiing and braking might touch.

 

[Dave Bull]

next, ive not done a full sr20 swap i just finished one off as im shure you know it takes a liitle more to fit one, i personaly would fit a GA16 over the sr20 for many reasons, more easy, less wireing, weight (as heavy engine up front in a small car handels ####!) and for me and what ive read and talked to other people about is that the GA16 is a stronger block for turboing

I wanna know how much the GA16 actually weighs, as I bet it weighs more than the SR20 being a cast iron block over an all aluminum block.

Oh and the SR20 is a far superior engine to the GA16, both in achievable power outputs and strength.

 

[Glen]

yea but the amount of work needed to put a sr20 in compared to a ga16 is alot. so sum1 wanting a easy power upgrade then it makes sense.

 

[MicraItaly]

really interesting 3d... so, if I'm not wrong...
-less mod mode to put a GA16 in a k11: eletric waterpump and no powersteering -> good clearance between chassis and engine, u can't move the g/box , no custom driveshafts.
-more mod mode: slide the engine about 20mm... u can retain waterpump and powersteering, but u must do custom engine mounts (all?) and need custom shafts (?)

right?

 

[itzhodges]

if you look at the pictures you can see the parts that need work. as the engine has been moved over 20 mm then people say you need drive shafts. well this is not true as frank covered ealier in the thread there is about 40mm of space to play with on each shaft means that the original 1.3 shafts fit without modification. You only need to make a front mount but its not necessary to do this. hope this helps a few people.

20mm in which direction and what does the bit on the left say little blury I think it says open mount but what do you mean

 

[jk9194]

20mm in which direction

Get a glasses first.... There is a clue on this pic

 

[itzhodges]

Get a glass first.... There is a clue on this pic

?

 

[itzhodges]

oh right haha

 

[jk9194]

?

Glasses* Lol

 

[xXturtleXx91]

I take it its the ga16de engine your using for the conversion?

 

[Baranka]

I have micra 1.0 prefl, and we plan to install ga16de . Do I fit cg13 gearbox , clutch . What is the starter , and flywheel will have to use ? Is it suitable for cg13 driveshaft to CG10 knucle ? I plan to cut chassis.

 

[Baranka]

Would not nobody know?

 

[frank]

the pre facelift 1.0 box is different to the others baranka, but the knuckle,s are all the same spline