kennierobo
Buy & Sell Member
change it for new its only just over 2hrs work start to finish and you dont need to weld just use big pop rivits to tie panels in. Bolts either side take strain anyhow
fill or weld rusty front member?
- Thread starter asdame
- Start date
butta
Kicked in the Member
I think the works been done he just needs to get his MOT sorted now
yep the weldin works done, should arrive sometime this week i hope.
hmm i rang the middlesbrough national tyres garage to book the mot & tyres ready for 9.30am
he says i could drive the car there and without tax as long as i have an appointment. (would i need an actual printout?)
geez this is complicated aint it :\
hmm i rang the middlesbrough national tyres garage to book the mot & tyres ready for 9.30am
he says i could drive the car there and without tax as long as i have an appointment. (would i need an actual printout?)
geez this is complicated aint it :\
oh yess
i rang the bodyshop garage and the cars welded up
)
gona get it tonight
before they could align wheels the car needed reassembling to full weight but i figure i'll align the wheels after the car's MOT, tax and is fully legal.
all lookin good:grinning:
ta for ya replies butta
checked the welding once i got home. guy did an ok job. some points r a lil off 3mm from the old alignment scribe marks i made before but all ok.
i'll prob have to spray the welds up black to protect em.
also those L-flages at the sides where the side wing would be bolted into doesn't even line up, tis too high. bah
thing that annoyed me was i thought the guy woulda been smart enough to just feed the PAS pipe through the panel hole whilst fitting,
instead he just moved it inside the engine bay and pushed the panel on to weld it. which leaves a right pain for me with this pipe stickin across the bay cos i had to disconnect both ends of the cooler pipe, spilling half a pint of fluid, heave the inner rigid pipe through the panel hole then reconnect it up.
here's the washer bottle, coolant bottle, that plate thing behind horns and the PAS cooler bracket fitted. because the cross member had no thread for the PAS bracket i thought i could pop rivet it on but Nope it was too small and is wayy impossible to pop without superman.
ah crap i gota find another way to attach it. maybe i'll try epoxy it on tomorrow
bumper & headlights fitted. i think the cars right headlamps is pointin slightly right cos of the panel misalignment or summin.
and there it is
i know i'll have to take the bits off again tomorrow to sort the PAS bracket & paintin but crikey it's good to see the car together finally. yipee
i rang the bodyshop garage and the cars welded up
)gona get it tonight
before they could align wheels the car needed reassembling to full weight but i figure i'll align the wheels after the car's MOT, tax and is fully legal.
all lookin good:grinning:
ta for ya replies butta
checked the welding once i got home. guy did an ok job. some points r a lil off 3mm from the old alignment scribe marks i made before but all ok.
i'll prob have to spray the welds up black to protect em.
also those L-flages at the sides where the side wing would be bolted into doesn't even line up, tis too high. bah
thing that annoyed me was i thought the guy woulda been smart enough to just feed the PAS pipe through the panel hole whilst fitting,
instead he just moved it inside the engine bay and pushed the panel on to weld it. which leaves a right pain for me with this pipe stickin across the bay cos i had to disconnect both ends of the cooler pipe, spilling half a pint of fluid, heave the inner rigid pipe through the panel hole then reconnect it up.
here's the washer bottle, coolant bottle, that plate thing behind horns and the PAS cooler bracket fitted. because the cross member had no thread for the PAS bracket i thought i could pop rivet it on but Nope it was too small and is wayy impossible to pop without superman.
ah crap i gota find another way to attach it. maybe i'll try epoxy it on tomorrow
bumper & headlights fitted. i think the cars right headlamps is pointin slightly right cos of the panel misalignment or summin.
and there it is
i know i'll have to take the bits off again tomorrow to sort the PAS bracket & paintin but crikey it's good to see the car together finally. yipee
here's the washer bottle, coolant bottle, that plate thing behind horns and the PAS cooler bracket fitted. because the cross member had no thread for the PAS bracket i thought i could pop rivet it on but Nope it was too small and is wayy impossible to pop without superman.
ah crap i gota find another way to attach it. maybe i'll try epoxy it on tomorrow
Just been reading through all of this thread. Very interesting.
Regarding epoxy I wouldn't do it. Get some self tapping screws and screw it on.
would epoxy not work maddave?
it's gona stay on the crossmember permanently like. or are you concerned bout it cracking over time and droppin off?
i don't have any self tap screws that large at the mo and the 2 holes on bracket r different sizes.
i think i'll glue it on tday and in future i'll get some large tappin screws to secure it further.
Ed I'm gona take the panels back off tonight n spray the welds in black.
it's gona stay on the crossmember permanently like. or are you concerned bout it cracking over time and droppin off?
i don't have any self tap screws that large at the mo and the 2 holes on bracket r different sizes.
i think i'll glue it on tday and in future i'll get some large tappin screws to secure it further.
Ed I'm gona take the panels back off tonight n spray the welds in black.
hi
the mot & tyre change is not till saturday. i'm hoping that if they could mot and change tyres before 12:30 i could also tax the car at the post office in town and return home fully sorted.
but i really really wanna make sure that i'm able to drive it to mot in next town with no tax cos i'm getting mixed answers.
guys at work and me dad reckin the car can't be driven on road or towed by another car cos of no tax, sounds like they're suggesting a trailer.
mot guy says it's ok to drive there with no tax long as it's for the mot appointment
dvla website mentions too that a car can be driven to mot garage for appointment, although didn't say if thats with or without tax disc.
maybe i should ring couple mot centres or local coppa to verify?
btw if mot finishes beyond 12:30pm (after post office closes so i'd hav to apply tax on tues instead) i could drive the car back home with insurance and new mot right?
yea once all this is done it's virtually a new conditioned-like car:k11motors
and i'll be like this face :laugh: on me b-day.
Update on tday:
at work i sand blasted & painted the battery tray, twas all rusty so thought i'd do it up. looks nice n clean.
as well as the oxygen sensor connector bracket, throttle cable holder bracket & Alternator cable bracket
sprayed up the welded areas & G-clamps holding the PAS bracketbeing epoxied to the cross member
close up
other side
sprayed the welds round back n bottom
g-clamp holding PAS bracket
zip tied PAS pipe to hold in place
completed car
few plastic arch liners left to do
i only have 3 hours of daylight after work so it twas a mad dash to do it all in time.
a thing buggin me is the welder musta misaligned the upper right of the panel cos the inner side of the right headlight is poking out slightly so the light's like pointing right by 1deg.
the mot & tyre change is not till saturday. i'm hoping that if they could mot and change tyres before 12:30 i could also tax the car at the post office in town and return home fully sorted.
but i really really wanna make sure that i'm able to drive it to mot in next town with no tax cos i'm getting mixed answers.
guys at work and me dad reckin the car can't be driven on road or towed by another car cos of no tax, sounds like they're suggesting a trailer.
mot guy says it's ok to drive there with no tax long as it's for the mot appointment
dvla website mentions too that a car can be driven to mot garage for appointment, although didn't say if thats with or without tax disc.
maybe i should ring couple mot centres or local coppa to verify?
btw if mot finishes beyond 12:30pm (after post office closes so i'd hav to apply tax on tues instead) i could drive the car back home with insurance and new mot right?
yea once all this is done it's virtually a new conditioned-like car:k11motors
and i'll be like this face :laugh: on me b-day.
Update on tday:
at work i sand blasted & painted the battery tray, twas all rusty so thought i'd do it up. looks nice n clean.
as well as the oxygen sensor connector bracket, throttle cable holder bracket & Alternator cable bracket
sprayed up the welded areas & G-clamps holding the PAS bracketbeing epoxied to the cross member
close up
other side
sprayed the welds round back n bottom
g-clamp holding PAS bracket
zip tied PAS pipe to hold in place
completed car
few plastic arch liners left to do
i only have 3 hours of daylight after work so it twas a mad dash to do it all in time.
a thing buggin me is the welder musta misaligned the upper right of the panel cos the inner side of the right headlight is poking out slightly so the light's like pointing right by 1deg.
could i at least stop by tesco petrol station along the route? cos it's almost running on vapour at the mo.
when the mot's done, passed and on time, i'll be running to the post office 10mins walk away to get tax disc, run back to collect car. i'll bring dad along too just in case.
once it's taxed, i think i'll also goto nissan to get code for me radio.
when the mot's done, passed and on time, i'll be running to the post office 10mins walk away to get tax disc, run back to collect car. i'll bring dad along too just in case.
once it's taxed, i think i'll also goto nissan to get code for me radio.
butta
Kicked in the Member
yep you can stop for petrol as long as you dont go far from the quickest route to the mot centre. and dont let nissan rip you off if you give them the chasis no from your mot and they should have the code on the computer if they try to charge you you can get the code from people on ebay for 99p they e-mail it to you!
i remember some threads where ppl post up the stereo's ID # or summin and the person would reply back with 4 digit code to enter. but you could only input a couple of wrong codes before it locks out right?
there's a software that can be purchased for that purpose i believe but its couple a quid.
but anyho, how much would ya says reasonable from nissan, a fiver?
there's a software that can be purchased for that purpose i believe but its couple a quid.
but anyho, how much would ya says reasonable from nissan, a fiver?
really?
personally speakin, as an owner and with an original stereo, I'd rather "rip my eyelids off and look at the sun" than pay nissan bloke several quids to read afew # of a monitor, sorta speak
i can officially say that the car is now 100% assembled:k11green:
this shows how far off the panel has moved the headlight and grill
wonder if there's a way to correct it in the future (without reweldin a new one on obviously)
prob nudgin the headlight mount point backwards with soft hammer. but don't think i'll risk it for now.
one or two non-essential pushfits needed for plastic liners, which i'll order after easter mon.
the left PAS bracket i epoxied has peeled off but meh it's restin on the bumper for now, other brackets ok. they'll be screwed on asap next week cos tomorrows good friday, saturdays the actual mot, sunday closed, and easter monday.
tested brakes n abs on short run along back alley, works fine. twas fun. though noticed the rear left brake (with the new callipers) sounded a teeni bit like the pads r barely skimmin the disc with that resonating metal ping noise. prob just the new flat pads catching the lil rust on the outer part of disc so abit of miles should soon help em bed into the groove.
everything else is just operating perfectly:grinning:
oh something buggin me nervously is the insurance documents which hasnt come yet since i applied on tues (thought they're sent 1st class?). i believe i'll need the certificate before actually driving on saturday. plus also for the tax disc.
good friday tomorrow but i'll ring em to immediately send me it like right now.
i have a printout of the email Elephant sent me bout the account # and dates, would that be enough
ah ffs. rang elephant before they closed, says it takes 2days to post out certificate. account started on 4th and it's good friday tomorrow so no mail. saturday morning is very unlikely to be on time cos i would've been gone at 8.50am
so i'm gona finish this project a week late than i hope for cos i'ma re-book the mot for next weekend. woulda all worked if i just did insurance a day earlier, just bad timing.
another option was (assuming the certificate came on sat) if i changed tyres on sat down local national tyres then on tues me dad drives car (he would be 3rd party covered i guess) to a very local MOT garage just round the street corner, drive it back home, then sort out me tax disc down post office with insurance cert & new mot. all ready for me bday when i go home from work.
although considering the risks i think i'll delay it all till next weekend to be on the safe side.
gona take off me tyres now and get it changed tomorrow.
...
hmm according to some ppl, the post office should be open this good friday? we'll see if the letter comes in morning. if yes, i go ahead as planned. if not then i'll rebook mot.
personally speakin, as an owner and with an original stereo, I'd rather "rip my eyelids off and look at the sun" than pay nissan bloke several quids to read afew # of a monitor, sorta speak
i can officially say that the car is now 100% assembled:k11green:
this shows how far off the panel has moved the headlight and grill
wonder if there's a way to correct it in the future (without reweldin a new one on obviously)
prob nudgin the headlight mount point backwards with soft hammer. but don't think i'll risk it for now.
one or two non-essential pushfits needed for plastic liners, which i'll order after easter mon.
the left PAS bracket i epoxied has peeled off but meh it's restin on the bumper for now, other brackets ok. they'll be screwed on asap next week cos tomorrows good friday, saturdays the actual mot, sunday closed, and easter monday.
tested brakes n abs on short run along back alley, works fine. twas fun. though noticed the rear left brake (with the new callipers) sounded a teeni bit like the pads r barely skimmin the disc with that resonating metal ping noise. prob just the new flat pads catching the lil rust on the outer part of disc so abit of miles should soon help em bed into the groove.
everything else is just operating perfectly:grinning:
oh something buggin me nervously is the insurance documents which hasnt come yet since i applied on tues (thought they're sent 1st class?). i believe i'll need the certificate before actually driving on saturday. plus also for the tax disc.
good friday tomorrow but i'll ring em to immediately send me it like right now.
i have a printout of the email Elephant sent me bout the account # and dates, would that be enough
ah ffs. rang elephant before they closed, says it takes 2days to post out certificate. account started on 4th and it's good friday tomorrow so no mail. saturday morning is very unlikely to be on time cos i would've been gone at 8.50am
so i'm gona finish this project a week late than i hope for cos i'ma re-book the mot for next weekend. woulda all worked if i just did insurance a day earlier, just bad timing.
another option was (assuming the certificate came on sat) if i changed tyres on sat down local national tyres then on tues me dad drives car (he would be 3rd party covered i guess) to a very local MOT garage just round the street corner, drive it back home, then sort out me tax disc down post office with insurance cert & new mot. all ready for me bday when i go home from work.
although considering the risks i think i'll delay it all till next weekend to be on the safe side.
gona take off me tyres now and get it changed tomorrow.
...
hmm according to some ppl, the post office should be open this good friday? we'll see if the letter comes in morning. if yes, i go ahead as planned. if not then i'll rebook mot.
talkin to me sister, she says i could drive there on sat with a printout of elephants confirmation email cos my policy has already started from 4th and if i was pulled over, just show em this proof and tell em i'm awaitin the documents to arrive.
drive home after mot and cycle to me post office to apply for tax either on sat afternoon (if the insurance cert comes on sat morning) or on tues at work.
drive home after mot and cycle to me post office to apply for tax either on sat afternoon (if the insurance cert comes on sat morning) or on tues at work.
aye tis an option, although it takes few days to mail the tax disc here so i think it's faster to tax it ideally straight after MOT or on tues.
stack of tyres i took off last night in hope of gettin em changed tday down local national tyres but instead, my parents went out to manchester this morning so i can't then
the tyres status
(rear left, rear right, front right, front left)
all their outer treads seem to wear more, which suggests either the trackings off or that my sister (who used this car before i brought it) aggressively drives the pants of it
put wheels back on since i can now proceed driving to mot tomorrow
pic of underneath
front right assembly
here's a bug, the 2 bolts under the tow hooks missin cos the threads weren't there just like the PAS bracket holes
the cleaned up gear linkage, works like a dream now
another underneath shot, i think the exhaust is hanging slightly low, works fine
replaced the old short exhaust bolts with longer ones here to make installation easier
taped up some holes in crossmember to prevent water eva gettin in again. PAS bracket also re-bonded with metal epoxy now, tis much stronger.
all ready n set up for tomorrow.
stack of tyres i took off last night in hope of gettin em changed tday down local national tyres but instead, my parents went out to manchester this morning so i can't then
the tyres status
(rear left, rear right, front right, front left)
all their outer treads seem to wear more, which suggests either the trackings off or that my sister (who used this car before i brought it) aggressively drives the pants of it
put wheels back on since i can now proceed driving to mot tomorrow
pic of underneath
front right assembly
here's a bug, the 2 bolts under the tow hooks missin cos the threads weren't there just like the PAS bracket holes
the cleaned up gear linkage, works like a dream now
another underneath shot, i think the exhaust is hanging slightly low, works fine
replaced the old short exhaust bolts with longer ones here to make installation easier
taped up some holes in crossmember to prevent water eva gettin in again. PAS bracket also re-bonded with metal epoxy now, tis much stronger.
all ready n set up for tomorrow.
misterBaz
Ex. Club Member
The only time where you can legally drive on a public road without a tax disc is on your way to and from an MOT station on a day that your vehicle has been booked in for. It is illegal to drive to a post office to collect your tax without already displaying a tax disc.
That said, you'd probably get away with it as you wouldn't come up on the police database as "without tax" so the police would have to physically see that you were not displaying the disc...which, since the tax payment database was introduced, is something they don't really seem to do anymore.
I was returning to my car once and the copper had already slapped an orange sticker on my car for not having a tax disc. (I had only bought it that day and hadn't got a tax disc holder so it was just balanced on teh dashboard and had slipped off, out of view) I grabbed the tax disc from off the floor and went running after the copper to explain what had happened. He returned to the car and ripped up my ticket...which was pretty good of him.
That said, you'd probably get away with it as you wouldn't come up on the police database as "without tax" so the police would have to physically see that you were not displaying the disc...which, since the tax payment database was introduced, is something they don't really seem to do anymore.
I was returning to my car once and the copper had already slapped an orange sticker on my car for not having a tax disc. (I had only bought it that day and hadn't got a tax disc holder so it was just balanced on teh dashboard and had slipped off, out of view) I grabbed the tax disc from off the floor and went running after the copper to explain what had happened. He returned to the car and ripped up my ticket...which was pretty good of him.
ha, nice one misterBaz. lucky ya caught him in time.
well it's been one heck of a day tday.
difficult to sleep last night cos of various thoughts and excitement of finally gettin the car tested now rather than wait a week..or maybe it was the heating on full that woke me :'
got up early than usual, checked n double checked documents, cash & car. insisted me parents could come along so we could spend time in town till the car is done. all set to go.
we set off at 8.45
down our street i braked but thought "this is harder than usual?" had to push quite hard. although baring in mind these rusty discs ain't been used properly for over 9 months so i guess the pads need bedding in and the discs clearin up.
another factor could be cos i was used to me parents peugeot 307 over-servo'ed sensitive brakes that i drove back in june-august 2006, which shunts ur head through the windscreen at the slightest touch.
meh, the brakes got better the further along i went.
stopped by asda to fill up, oddly the fuel gauge was pointin at middle of red bit and yet the fuel light ain't on? could be another blown bulb or sensor fault or that it won't light till the level's reallly low beyond the dials.
put in £20 worth (22litres 'ish) and the tank's 3/4 full.
proceeded to drive to the centre, gear shift is sweet n precise, clutch is wonderful n steering's nice. engine's grunty at high rev or low speeds but seems outa steam towards 70mph or low rev cruising (guess she likes to rev)
got to centre at 9:20, explained it needs avon cr322 175/70/13, tracking & mot, gave keys and went off to town with parents for lunch, eventually at M&S cafe
i mentioned to em before bout tryin to get it done by 12 before the local post closes, it's 11:30 so headed back.
got there by 11:45 and saw me car on the rollers for brake tests
sittin in waitin room, one of mechanics asked if thats my car and commented "bloomin heck ya musta spent a load on that! u could get a new car with the amount ya spent on this"
he noticed how i was using a steel bar to support the exhaust rather than nissans bracket but meh. later i barly heard him mention how i spent all that effort only to fail the mot.
he sniggers away but in there my heart momentarily sank at the confusion of whether he was joking or whether all my hard work was a waste.
the mot tester came in room at 1:30, i sat forward as he explains the 2 fails.
one was a fog light bulb fault, i didn't understand it at first cos my rear fog lights work perfectly and it doesn't have a front fog light. but he showed me that it was the rear fog light indicator on the instrument dash that wasn't lighting up when it's turned on, and that feature is part of the mot checklist unfortunately.
2nd fail was a leakin brake line (oh god please don't let it be ma new conditioned callipers) we looked under and it was where the new pipe from the rear brake regulator is coupled with the older pipe ahead that's leakin, but suspecting that it could be just a loose seal, the guy really tightened the coupling up with a spanner, reapplied brake and it doesn't leak anymore, SORTED
meanwhile the tyres were being changed to avons by this lass who removes/fits tyres and balances em. cars looks good as new.
btw there was also another micra parked there, appears to be a 5dr "Passion" k11 pre-facelift rear (cos nissan badge is above the boot handle) but mines better cos i got alloys lol
the car was soon put on next rig to align wheels with these lasered jigs attached to the wheels like spirit levelers.
mot guy soon chatted with me bout the situation and my thoughts were:
- as they're busy i could drive back home to fix that fog bulb and re-book the test next sat, means this project'll be delayed a further week.
or
- since it's just a stupid lil bulb that needs workin and i'm determined to wanna get this whole thing sorted tday, i asked if i change that instrument bulb would it pass and could i work on it here? he said sure
OK so i RAN!!!! to local Maplins in town to get that backlight bulb. turned out their shop didn't have any, ARGHH but the other maplin in our retail park has 1 so told em to ring that store to reserve it. asked fella if he knows any taxi i could ring to get there but he mentions i could get one here by just wavin cos there's loadsa em runnin along this main road.
so walked out lookin for an empty taxi, stuck me arms out like they do in movies and voila, first time i eva done that.
drove me to nearby retail park, told to wait as i run into maplin for that bulb and also screwdriver. bloody long ques. went back to the garage to remove the instrument cluster.
lookin around for where that fog light indicator slot is i found it while lookin at it against the light but why it didn't work is cos i've forgotton to put a bulb in there in the first place, DOH!
maplins bulb needed moddin abit in order to install em but moments later i figure i could just replace that fog indicator slot with one of the other bulbs that usually lights up the tach/speedo/dials face plate...it worked
quickly put it together with a smile, got tester to check it and now the cars finally passed at 2:30 :grinning:
got me papers n drove home happy. strange driving on new tyres as the labels on the tread sounded like as though i had double-sided tape on there.
on the motorway i noticed an annoying metalic buzzing especially when i lift the accelerator but is slightly lessoned by holding onto the gearstick.
i think it's the exhaust vibrating on that steel bar support of mine the mechanic mentioned earlier. i'll have to cusion it somehow, any ideas?
got home and took off wheels to remove all that sticky label. gosh the impact drill that lass used for the wheels really tightened em up. label removed, washed tyre from some poo and refitted.
lovely tyres
insurance documents arrived this morning
can't wait to tax it on tues for me bday now :grinning:
well it's been one heck of a day tday.
difficult to sleep last night cos of various thoughts and excitement of finally gettin the car tested now rather than wait a week..or maybe it was the heating on full that woke me :'
got up early than usual, checked n double checked documents, cash & car. insisted me parents could come along so we could spend time in town till the car is done. all set to go.
we set off at 8.45
down our street i braked but thought "this is harder than usual?" had to push quite hard. although baring in mind these rusty discs ain't been used properly for over 9 months so i guess the pads need bedding in and the discs clearin up.
another factor could be cos i was used to me parents peugeot 307 over-servo'ed sensitive brakes that i drove back in june-august 2006, which shunts ur head through the windscreen at the slightest touch.
meh, the brakes got better the further along i went.
stopped by asda to fill up, oddly the fuel gauge was pointin at middle of red bit and yet the fuel light ain't on? could be another blown bulb or sensor fault or that it won't light till the level's reallly low beyond the dials.
put in £20 worth (22litres 'ish) and the tank's 3/4 full.
proceeded to drive to the centre, gear shift is sweet n precise, clutch is wonderful n steering's nice. engine's grunty at high rev or low speeds but seems outa steam towards 70mph or low rev cruising (guess she likes to rev
)got to centre at 9:20, explained it needs avon cr322 175/70/13, tracking & mot, gave keys and went off to town with parents for lunch, eventually at M&S cafe
i mentioned to em before bout tryin to get it done by 12 before the local post closes, it's 11:30 so headed back.
got there by 11:45 and saw me car on the rollers for brake tests
sittin in waitin room, one of mechanics asked if thats my car and commented "bloomin heck ya musta spent a load on that! u could get a new car with the amount ya spent on this"
he noticed how i was using a steel bar to support the exhaust rather than nissans bracket but meh. later i barly heard him mention how i spent all that effort only to fail the mot.
he sniggers away but in there my heart momentarily sank at the confusion of whether he was joking or whether all my hard work was a waste.
the mot tester came in room at 1:30, i sat forward as he explains the 2 fails.
one was a fog light bulb fault, i didn't understand it at first cos my rear fog lights work perfectly and it doesn't have a front fog light. but he showed me that it was the rear fog light indicator on the instrument dash that wasn't lighting up when it's turned on, and that feature is part of the mot checklist unfortunately.
2nd fail was a leakin brake line (oh god please don't let it be ma new conditioned callipers) we looked under and it was where the new pipe from the rear brake regulator is coupled with the older pipe ahead that's leakin, but suspecting that it could be just a loose seal, the guy really tightened the coupling up with a spanner, reapplied brake and it doesn't leak anymore, SORTED
meanwhile the tyres were being changed to avons by this lass who removes/fits tyres and balances em. cars looks good as new.
btw there was also another micra parked there, appears to be a 5dr "Passion" k11 pre-facelift rear (cos nissan badge is above the boot handle) but mines better cos i got alloys lol
the car was soon put on next rig to align wheels with these lasered jigs attached to the wheels like spirit levelers.
mot guy soon chatted with me bout the situation and my thoughts were:
- as they're busy i could drive back home to fix that fog bulb and re-book the test next sat, means this project'll be delayed a further week.
or
- since it's just a stupid lil bulb that needs workin and i'm determined to wanna get this whole thing sorted tday, i asked if i change that instrument bulb would it pass and could i work on it here? he said sure
OK so i RAN!!!! to local Maplins in town to get that backlight bulb. turned out their shop didn't have any, ARGHH but the other maplin in our retail park has 1 so told em to ring that store to reserve it. asked fella if he knows any taxi i could ring to get there but he mentions i could get one here by just wavin cos there's loadsa em runnin along this main road.
so walked out lookin for an empty taxi, stuck me arms out like they do in movies
and voila, first time i eva done that.drove me to nearby retail park, told to wait as i run into maplin for that bulb and also screwdriver. bloody long ques. went back to the garage to remove the instrument cluster.
lookin around for where that fog light indicator slot is i found it while lookin at it against the light but why it didn't work is cos i've forgotton to put a bulb in there in the first place, DOH!
maplins bulb needed moddin abit in order to install em but moments later i figure i could just replace that fog indicator slot with one of the other bulbs that usually lights up the tach/speedo/dials face plate...it worked
quickly put it together with a smile, got tester to check it and now the cars finally passed at 2:30 :grinning:
got me papers n drove home happy. strange driving on new tyres as the labels on the tread sounded like as though i had double-sided tape on there.
on the motorway i noticed an annoying metalic buzzing especially when i lift the accelerator but is slightly lessoned by holding onto the gearstick.
i think it's the exhaust vibrating on that steel bar support of mine the mechanic mentioned earlier. i'll have to cusion it somehow, any ideas?
got home and took off wheels to remove all that sticky label. gosh the impact drill that lass used for the wheels really tightened em up. label removed, washed tyre from some poo and refitted.
lovely tyres
insurance documents arrived this morning
can't wait to tax it on tues for me bday now :grinning:
installed the alarm system back on. gosh it's taken all day to install the box, braided sleeve all the wires together, feed all wires through, install siren, install sensors, trim all wires to length, solder the millions of connections and put everything back.
think i'll sort out that rattlin exhaust tomorrow.
think i'll sort out that rattlin exhaust tomorrow.
hey
sorted out the exhaust tday
grabbed some thick wire n hooked round the pipe to secure it against the support rod
but looking around i remembered that when i slam the door i'd hear a metal clanging which i suspected might be a loose exhaust shield.
tappin the shield i think i've found the rattling source cos one shield is missing a bolt (must've lost it during assembly)
put in a spare M6 bolt and that should lesson the noise
also did compression test later on (tell ya bout it on me other thread)
hmm i'm just curious tday bout the value of my car. when i applied for insurance i priced it at round £800 using parkers.com
d'ya thinks that sounds right for a 1998 1.3 slx 92k?
sorted out the exhaust tday
grabbed some thick wire n hooked round the pipe to secure it against the support rod
but looking around i remembered that when i slam the door i'd hear a metal clanging which i suspected might be a loose exhaust shield.
tappin the shield i think i've found the rattling source cos one shield is missing a bolt (must've lost it during assembly)
put in a spare M6 bolt and that should lesson the noise
also did compression test later on (tell ya bout it on me other thread)
hmm i'm just curious tday bout the value of my car. when i applied for insurance i priced it at round £800 using parkers.com
d'ya thinks that sounds right for a 1998 1.3 slx 92k?
ooh i'll certainly consider garaging it then. might be annoyin openin alley gate, garage gate and parkin it in there every work day but if that saves me £ then gr8.
saves the car from the weather elements too
K i just had a call from elephant bout adding a hire car cover on my policy to provide me 3weeks hire car incase my cars damaged or totalled, @ extra £22
i asked em bout garaging the car and he said it'll make no difference to policy
also asked bout bumpin the value of me car from £800 to £1300 and it'l add another £19.80 on top, i'll keep it £800 at the mo
oh other day cos it has the original tape radio i tried those cassette adapter things for me mp3 player. my god! how crap are they
so i just brought this belkin fm transmitter from dabs for £18, should get it tomorrow
saves the car from the weather elements too
K i just had a call from elephant bout adding a hire car cover on my policy to provide me 3weeks hire car incase my cars damaged or totalled, @ extra £22
i asked em bout garaging the car and he said it'll make no difference to policy
also asked bout bumpin the value of me car from £800 to £1300 and it'l add another £19.80 on top, i'll keep it £800 at the mo
oh other day cos it has the original tape radio i tried those cassette adapter things for me mp3 player. my god! how crap are they
so i just brought this belkin fm transmitter from dabs for £18, should get it tomorrow
pollyp
Club Member
Hi everyone
sorry bout the lack of updates cos been busy at work and with car but here's a big update.
when i brought the car the rear demister never worked. actually me sister, who used the car before i brought it ,remember it never worked since the car was once shunted up the rear by some eejit while she stopped at round about and the rear boot was replaced.
i tested all the wiring but puzzled that the circuit from battery to the switch plus the heating element area was all working fine. then i further took out the boot wiring and found the shocking cause.
it looks as though the person who replaced the cars boot after the rear shunt had began to cut the wires (maybe to solder the other wiring half left on the replacement boot) but changed their mind half way through, deciding to pull out the old wiring from the old boot and feed it through the replacement boot. only forgetting to solder back up the initial wires they'd cut which could've shorted out!
well i soldered and insulated all the exposed wires back and it now works gr8 :grinning:
i thought i'd try to mod the rear wipers from vertical to horizontal position.
took motor apart to see the workings and reversed the circuitry but it didn't work for some reason oh well.
i tried at repairing the worst kerbed wheels which resulted from my sisters driving back then.
was a pain to sand it down, fill, sand, check (100 times) till it was all near as smooth. then primed n sanded
painted
laquered and fitted back on. much better
I always wanted to paint me brakes red to contrast the blue body so i did the rotors, callipers & guides all red hammerite.
well pleased with the result:grinning:
today i had a go at repairing the rust spots on the roof and massive key scratch along left rear door
got some nissan touch-up paint for £6 and it looked crap, especially difficult to match metallic paint
so got the nissan spray cans instead. proceeded to sand back the paint with wet/dry, the rust goes deeper then i thought
so i dremelled off that patch
filled
and sanded it all flat. i roughened up the surrounding area with some scorering pad cos i'm painting the whole section for an even look (compared to the patchy touch-up paint job)
masked
painted the base coat. the small paint can barely had enough to cover the panel.
laquered and polished it here
repairing the long key scratch. rust goes deeper
took it deeper to the metal
all scratches flattened down. took off handle to reach that bit
painted it with the little remaining blue that's left
laquered & polished. aint spectacular but it'll do i guess
ohh and not forgetting that fm transmitter i brought. i hid it inside the centre console and the phono plug is epoxied onto one of the blank button covers next to the hazard button, which i had designed to allow me mp3 player to plug right on. this lets me flick the players lever to change tracks at arms reach.
the transmitters power adapter plugs into the cig hole. notice i've also put the original fake wood trim stickies back on the dash with contact adhesive.
neat thing bout the device is that as long as it's plugged into the cig lighter, it'll power up automatically when it detects music playing from the phono jack. i simply start car, start mp3 player, plug onto phono jack and it plays through a specified radio channel :grinning:
sorry bout the lack of updates cos been busy at work and with car but here's a big update.
when i brought the car the rear demister never worked. actually me sister, who used the car before i brought it ,remember it never worked since the car was once shunted up the rear by some eejit while she stopped at round about and the rear boot was replaced.
i tested all the wiring but puzzled that the circuit from battery to the switch plus the heating element area was all working fine. then i further took out the boot wiring and found the shocking cause.
it looks as though the person who replaced the cars boot after the rear shunt had began to cut the wires (maybe to solder the other wiring half left on the replacement boot) but changed their mind half way through, deciding to pull out the old wiring from the old boot and feed it through the replacement boot. only forgetting to solder back up the initial wires they'd cut which could've shorted out!
well i soldered and insulated all the exposed wires back and it now works gr8 :grinning:
i thought i'd try to mod the rear wipers from vertical to horizontal position.
took motor apart to see the workings and reversed the circuitry but it didn't work for some reason
oh well.
i tried at repairing the worst kerbed wheels which resulted from my sisters driving back then.
was a pain to sand it down, fill, sand, check (100 times) till it was all near as smooth. then primed n sanded
painted
laquered and fitted back on. much better
I always wanted to paint me brakes red to contrast the blue body so i did the rotors, callipers & guides all red hammerite.
well pleased with the result:grinning:
today i had a go at repairing the rust spots on the roof and massive key scratch along left rear door
got some nissan touch-up paint for £6 and it looked crap, especially difficult to match metallic paint
so got the nissan spray cans instead. proceeded to sand back the paint with wet/dry, the rust goes deeper then i thought
so i dremelled off that patch
filled
and sanded it all flat. i roughened up the surrounding area with some scorering pad cos i'm painting the whole section for an even look (compared to the patchy touch-up paint job)
masked
painted the base coat. the small paint can barely had enough to cover the panel.
laquered and polished it here
repairing the long key scratch. rust goes deeper
took it deeper to the metal
all scratches flattened down. took off handle to reach that bit
painted it with the little remaining blue that's left
laquered & polished. aint spectacular but it'll do i guess
ohh and not forgetting that fm transmitter i brought. i hid it inside the centre console and the phono plug is epoxied onto one of the blank button covers next to the hazard button, which i had designed to allow me mp3 player to plug right on. this lets me flick the players lever to change tracks at arms reach.
the transmitters power adapter plugs into the cig hole. notice i've also put the original fake wood trim stickies back on the dash with contact adhesive.
neat thing bout the device is that as long as it's plugged into the cig lighter, it'll power up automatically when it detects music playing from the phono jack. i simply start car, start mp3 player, plug onto phono jack and it plays through a specified radio channel :grinning:
goldstar0011
Ex. Club Member
glad to see you carried on working on it.
You seem to have tried the hard way to do the wiper mechanism, you simply a hole in the cog so the arm thing is on the other side when starts/finishes
You seem to have tried the hard way to do the wiper mechanism, you simply a hole in the cog so the arm thing is on the other side when starts/finishes
pollyp
Club Member
all the rust was grinded off down to bare metal so i wouldn't have thought i'd need to treat it.
it's an ongoing thing goldstar like any other hobby or passion
yea i seem to always do things the hard way lol just me
there was only the one hole on the cog so i thought switching around the contacts would've reverse the resting position, guess not. did ya mean glue a sort of collar on the opposite side of cog to construct another hole?
it's an ongoing thing goldstar like any other hobby or passion
yea i seem to always do things the hard way lol just me
there was only the one hole on the cog so i thought switching around the contacts would've reverse the resting position, guess not. did ya mean glue a sort of collar on the opposite side of cog to construct another hole?
goldstar0011
Ex. Club Member
Hope this makes sense, the arm wants to start/stop there instead, if I still have my old one I will take a pic
pollyp
Club Member
i get what the objective is, it's just a Q of how.
not to worry goldstar cos i just figured it out earlier.
i looked at the mechanism and the pivot pin on the cog is well stuck on there so not gona risk damaging that with any pliers.
instead i thought i'd just reposition the contact track plate 180degs which seems easier
carefully pryed the contact plate from the cog with a stanley blade
dremel some areas to allow the plate to sit flat. marked and drilled the three new holes to sit the plate 180deg
so looks like this
when the wipers r stationary, one of the contacts would be resting on a raised section of the polyurethane cog.
the raised section is level flush with the metal track so that the contacts move smoothly without damage.
since i moved the track, that raised bit is missing so i'd have to make one. i used an old plastic reward card, cut with a compass cutter.
gluing anything to a polyurethane cog is very difficult as the material is naturally slippery. so i tried putting in some filler, cut it level whilst drying to provide a surface to glue onto
now i could superglue the plastic bit on top of the filler making sure it sits flush with the metal track n hey presto
reassembled, and now it looks well smart
not to worry goldstar cos i just figured it out earlier.
i looked at the mechanism and the pivot pin on the cog is well stuck on there so not gona risk damaging that with any pliers.
instead i thought i'd just reposition the contact track plate 180degs which seems easier
carefully pryed the contact plate from the cog with a stanley blade
dremel some areas to allow the plate to sit flat. marked and drilled the three new holes to sit the plate 180deg
so looks like this
when the wipers r stationary, one of the contacts would be resting on a raised section of the polyurethane cog.
the raised section is level flush with the metal track so that the contacts move smoothly without damage.
since i moved the track, that raised bit is missing so i'd have to make one. i used an old plastic reward card, cut with a compass cutter.
gluing anything to a polyurethane cog is very difficult as the material is naturally slippery. so i tried putting in some filler, cut it level whilst drying to provide a surface to glue onto
now i could superglue the plastic bit on top of the filler making sure it sits flush with the metal track n hey presto
reassembled, and now it looks well smart
pollyp
Club Member
got another spray can off nissan tday, surprised he charged me £3.87 rather than £6 as i've order so many stuff from them by now
thought i'd do me handles, only one side tday cos i have a party to goto later
smooth off the rough texture with wet dry
painted 2 coats
laquered and put back
looks well ace
doing other side tomorrow
thought i'd do me handles, only one side tday cos i have a party to goto later
smooth off the rough texture with wet dry
painted 2 coats
laquered and put back
looks well ace
doing other side tomorrow
goldstar0011
Ex. Club Member
I'm very impressed with your painting skills!
Do you have an email address/MSN I can get you of for some advice?
goldstar0011 (at) hotmail.com
Do you have an email address/MSN I can get you of for some advice?
goldstar0011 (at) hotmail.com
pollyp
Club Member
sure. paulspikerpop at yahoo.com
as they say, preparation is everything. i just sand it as smooth/flat as i can while sliding finger over the surface occasionally cos whatever you feel is the finish you'll get.
and wipe the surface with some thinner to remove grime before any painting.
as they say, preparation is everything. i just sand it as smooth/flat as i can while sliding finger over the surface occasionally cos whatever you feel is the finish you'll get.
and wipe the surface with some thinner to remove grime before any painting.
pollyp
Club Member
hi everyone
had a nice long drive to manchester other day, twas gr8. although returned with a sore back n numb bum
checking up the car, i notice the PAS pipe mount's unstuck Again
soo since the weathers ok I thought of riveting it on like i originally should of
took off the bumper
drilled some new holes n pop rivet it
solid as a rock
looked underneath and some parts r rusty
so brushed on some rust remedy
now this catches my eye.
since the beginning there's been this oily lookin patch at the bottom of the gearbox. i suspect it maybe leaking from that switch on the right. there's no way i could get a spanner in there to tighten it.
when i was Breakin In the engine I used 10-40W and it drank oil like 3/4 the dipstick each week of normal driving. (didn't smoke except slightly during hard 0-60)
now that i've put in 15-40W high milage castrol, consumption's not as bad during normal work driving (smoke has all vanished, even durin hard 0-60) but going to manchester n back (250miles) the levels gone from full to 1/5
is that norm?
i suppose the engines pretty tired
had a nice long drive to manchester other day, twas gr8. although returned with a sore back n numb bum
checking up the car, i notice the PAS pipe mount's unstuck Again
soo since the weathers ok I thought of riveting it on like i originally should of
took off the bumper
drilled some new holes n pop rivet it
solid as a rock
looked underneath and some parts r rusty
so brushed on some rust remedy
now this catches my eye.
since the beginning there's been this oily lookin patch at the bottom of the gearbox. i suspect it maybe leaking from that switch on the right. there's no way i could get a spanner in there to tighten it.
when i was Breakin In the engine I used 10-40W and it drank oil like 3/4 the dipstick each week of normal driving. (didn't smoke except slightly during hard 0-60)
now that i've put in 15-40W high milage castrol, consumption's not as bad during normal work driving (smoke has all vanished, even durin hard 0-60) but going to manchester n back (250miles) the levels gone from full to 1/5
is that norm?
i suppose the engines pretty tired
pollyp
Club Member
a ha
i think i've just figured out tonight why my gearstick rattles annoyingly when in fifth
there were some slight joint movement on the linkage when i checked the other day
when in 1st to 4th gears the little spring near the stick is pulling against it hence it doesn't rattle
but when in 5th, that little spring is completely relaxed and not pulling anymore, plus the joints r worn therefore allowing the linkage to rattle away
need a new gear linkage now i suppose..
i think i've just figured out tonight why my gearstick rattles annoyingly when in fifth
there were some slight joint movement on the linkage when i checked the other day
when in 1st to 4th gears the little spring near the stick is pulling against it hence it doesn't rattle
but when in 5th, that little spring is completely relaxed and not pulling anymore, plus the joints r worn therefore allowing the linkage to rattle away
need a new gear linkage now i suppose..
pollyp
Club Member
yess it's arrived tday, so exciting to go home now.
this is what i get
it's now dark and could do this on the weekend but nope..i wanted to do this now
took off the cat
then the shield to access the linkage
i decided to just change the selector rod cos the original gearstick bush is ok and it'll save time.
but puttin in the new rod something was very wrong...ah ffs the new rod turns out to be too long and bent differently for another type of micra, shyte
the rods r different but the universal joint at the front for the bushes r the same, so i'll just swap the new 1 over to the original rod.
the universal joint's riveted to the rod (dunno why nissans done that when the other bush joints r bolted) so i simply grind off the rivet, swap the joints and bolt it together..so i need a bolt
damn it's 7.50 and halfords may have the bolts but closes at 8.
immediately borrowed moms car to get there and luckily they're got some that fits, and not a moment too soon before they shut, damn close.
grinded the joint off the original rod
the new rods bit more tricky, wouldn't budge and joint was stiff, eventually resorted to cutting it apart. the bush was rusted onto the rivet shaft hence why it didn't budge.
bolted the new universal joint onto the original rod
reassembled
and Oh my Word, driving it to motorway n back it's shifting absolutely spot on:grinning:
1st & 2nd gear is now a dodle to engage
5th gear on the motorway no longer rattles
i luv driving my micra soo much:k11motors
this is what i get
it's now dark and could do this on the weekend but nope..i wanted to do this now
took off the cat
then the shield to access the linkage
i decided to just change the selector rod cos the original gearstick bush is ok and it'll save time.
but puttin in the new rod something was very wrong...ah ffs the new rod turns out to be too long and bent differently for another type of micra, shyte
the rods r different but the universal joint at the front for the bushes r the same, so i'll just swap the new 1 over to the original rod.
the universal joint's riveted to the rod (dunno why nissans done that when the other bush joints r bolted) so i simply grind off the rivet, swap the joints and bolt it together..so i need a bolt
damn it's 7.50 and halfords may have the bolts but closes at 8.
immediately borrowed moms car to get there and luckily they're got some that fits, and not a moment too soon before they shut, damn close.
grinded the joint off the original rod
the new rods bit more tricky, wouldn't budge and joint was stiff, eventually resorted to cutting it apart. the bush was rusted onto the rivet shaft hence why it didn't budge.
bolted the new universal joint onto the original rod
reassembled
and Oh my Word, driving it to motorway n back it's shifting absolutely spot on:grinning:
1st & 2nd gear is now a dodle to engage
5th gear on the motorway no longer rattles
i luv driving my micra soo much:k11motors
pollyp
Club Member
just got myself a spoiler tday down the local Jap Parts for £82
ordered summore blue paint from nissan
now i understand that i need to drill two holes on top of boot hatch for the bolt fixtures
and from inside the hatch are two access hole gaps for a socket
but i dunno how i'll fix to flange on the sides to the boot??
i think i read the micra SR has a bracket coming out of the boot side for these flanges, built in or are they seperate?
or maybe i could just silicone seal/glue it?
can anyone help me.
ordered summore blue paint from nissan
now i understand that i need to drill two holes on top of boot hatch for the bolt fixtures
and from inside the hatch are two access hole gaps for a socket
but i dunno how i'll fix to flange on the sides to the boot??
i think i read the micra SR has a bracket coming out of the boot side for these flanges, built in or are they seperate?
or maybe i could just silicone seal/glue it?
can anyone help me.
goldstar0011
Ex. Club Member
I used a heavy duty double sided sticky tape, I now some used a glue to hold there's on too, both methods worked ok