ecc controlled engine

superls

superls

K10 Tuner
my ecc super s engine is not running right, it races on idle and is a bit lumpy when revving, it also seems to be running rich.

also sometimes when a blip the throttle is dosent settle down it just stalls.

and it also 'over runs' when i rev it, ie it carries on revvind slightly after i let off.

its been fully rebuilt and has a de-catted exhaust.

are there any suggestions what it could be???

Or alternatively ive read on another thread that someone has removed the ecc control, is this hard to do what is involved, is there any advantages or disadvantages to taking it off.

i have a spare 1 litre carb and manifold (non ecc controlled) can i just rejet this with 1.2 carb jets and fit that with the standard non ecc system???
 
I don't think you can remove the ecc stuff from a super s! - then again, i think Speedle did it actually!! I'll get Arnold to reply :)
 
Yeah you can, you need to replace the inlet and outlet manifolds, removing all the additional unnecessary pipework relating to the ECC. You'l need a normal carb & airpan too. I believe you'l get a 6bhp gain if you rip it all out - successfully

Its probably a little more complicated than the above, but it can be done.
 
hi cheers for that i just dont like the way you highlightetd successfully at the end does this imply some difficulty lol
 
Well you'l have more running problems if you dont remove it correctly.

If you need a replacement carb, i think i have an ECC one at Ems house.
 
ive got a replacment carb thanks, ill try a few things more with the engine as it is 2morow if that fails ill try removing it all.
 
mat managed to do it cos he used a weber the standard 1.0 one is still monitored by the rev control box. and if you dont know your way around all the boost pipes best to clean up your carb and leave it
 
ye cheers for that ill see what happens tomorrow,

no doubt ill be back on 2morrow asking more questions about it.
 
Hi just to update,

i got up this morning and ripped everything ecc out of the car and off of the engine and replaced it with the bog standard setup.

it fired up first time, after setting the mixture and idle speed it ran perfectly on tickover and at revs for a good 20 mins, not a problem.

i was on the phone to a mate of mine with the car on tickover and it started to sound different, it got as though it was sort of missing and it became very lumpy and i noticed lots of condensation coming from the exhoust. i quickly switched it off.

i checked the timing ok
i adjusted the mixture (all the way in 2.5 turns back out)
retarded the ignition slightly.

after about 20 mins i tried to start it up, the engine started to turn then locked up, it turned back the key tried it again and it went, 10 times worse than it was before it was trying to shake the car to pieces, and condensation was bellowing out of the exhaust, i tried to rev it and it was exactly the same but faster, so i turned it off.

left it another 15-20 mins and tried it again it locked up 3 times before it went, holding the revs at about 1500 revs (condensation bellowing, car practicall being shaken to pieces) i removed the breather that goes from the rocker top to the inlet manifold only to be greated with a facefull of red hot 'mayonase', i killed the engine and took off the filler cap to find it full of 'mayonase'.

what i have put it down to is something is cracked and water is getting into the bores or at least 1 of them and also into the oil.

the plan for tomorrow is to put the 1.0 engine back in.

TOTALLY GUTTED.
 
Before you do anything disconect the water pipes to the inlet manifold and plug either end. It is likely that in changing the carbs you have disrupted the seal on the water heated manifold and when the temperature builds the pressure is forcing water in to the inlet. If not it's probably just the head gasket, it would be just as easy to change it as it would to swap the engines back.
 
yes but the headgasket was changed before the engine was put in the car

plus it will only take a couple of hours to change the engine anyways
 
did you regrind the valves?, change the valve stem oil seals?, clean the top of the pistons when the cylinder head was off?
 
Did you skim the head? Check what i said about the water heated manifold though, it will take all of ten minutes. The fact that the engine locked up suggests that there is a lot of water in the bores.
 
you probably damaged the gasket between the manifold and water heater like amy says considering its only just started to do it after you've swaped carb over
 
Between the carb and the manifold there is a sandwich plate that is heated by the engine coolant. It has a gasket on each face which is easily torn. If torn this allows a free flow of water directly to the inlet tract. You should allways skim the head when it's been removed.
 
i havent removed that i removed the carb complete with the manifold, the carb+manifold was taken off of a working engine, to test mine.
 
yes i no ill stick the 1 liter in for the time being as i nee dthe car for work (you can only phone in sick so many times) and try and sort the engine out, while its in me workshop.
 
Yeah, spend some time on it, port match the manifolds, clean it up etc you'll be ready to rock then.
 
You dont need to skim the head everytime its removed! The pipes on the inlet manifold are the most likely cause. Trouble is if its locked up solid with water that could be very very bad news. (bent conrods etc) I definately wouldn't however take the engine out without looking why it went wrong first.

Ed
 
I've had too many bad experiences when I havn't skimmed heads, sure you don't allways have to but for the sake of £20 you might as well. as long as you instruct the machinist to remove the bare minimum you won't go far wrong.
 
It does really depend on what was the cause of failure. Its always worth checking which you can do yourself.
 

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