Cvt oil level

[j0hnb0y]

Does anyone know what the oil level be in the cvt gearbox? The car is a 2012 K13 micra DIGS 1.2. It has no dip stick on the gearbox, just a short stubby stem.

 

[AntiNissan]

Yes. car level anv cvt oil < 45c, behind the drain plug there is a small pipe - best described as an overflow pipe (which has to be removed if drainig/doing a partial oil change*), you put enough oil in via this until the oil no longer runs out, this is with the engine running and after you have excercised the g-box - moving through all the selectipns, P<N, D,L,R a few times - but the transmission oil musnt be 40c +/- 5c for the level to be correct.
I did an oil and filters chang at ~35K miles and it greatly improved the cvt's behavior, and I do mean greatly!
Note when you change the oil (highly recomended, even if just the drain and refill) it is best to do cvt 'rese'/adaptation' re learn.

 

[Spectre]

Yes. car level anv cvt oil < 45c, behind the drain plug there is a small pipe - best described as an overflow pipe (which has to be removed if drainig/doing a partial oil change*), you put enough oil in via this until the oil no longer runs out, this is with the engine running and after you have excercised the g-box - moving through all the selectipns, P- 5c for the level to be correct.
I did an oil and filters chang at ~35K miles and it greatly improved the cvt's behavior, and I do mean greatly!
Note when you change the oil (highly recomended, even if just the drain and refill) it is best to do cvt 'rese'/adaptation' re learn.

A service technician recommended that I get the CVT oil replaced as my K13 is 2013 model and the oil is good for either 10 years or 1,00,000 Kms.

He said that the car's performance and CVT responsiveness will go up by atleast 50% after that and I believe him now after I read your comment.

Sent from my NE2211 using Micra Sports Club mobile app

 

[AntiNissan]

If you're looking to DIY, pic of instructions attached ;-)
However, for a better drain and fill, I removed the transmission sump as you get more of the old oil out, can clean out the sump, remove and clean/replace the basic metal filter in the sump, and replace the small paper cartridge type filter in the side of the transmission accessible from the right side wheel well, wheel removed. I was miffed at the time as the filter cover was behind some 'gizmo' which needs to be removed to access the filter cover retaining bolt, photo attached, and I could not find anything about the gizmo on the web - It turns out the gizmo is an electric pump for the transmission which not all transmission have.
I got a kit of sump gasket, and the 2 filters, the reansmission type is the CVT JF015E / RE0F11A.

Note on my 2014 Dig-s CVT this cartridge filter's cover was behind the electric pump }:-# that had to be removed for access, this pump is held in place by 2 'unusual' 5 point star type bolts, 5-star bits were purchased to help with removal. They were a little difficicult to remove due to limited space / getting the bit into the bolt heads. IIRC there were o-rings on the top and bottom of the black part, which ideally should be replaced but as I did not have any I just cleaned and reused them, 10,000 miles later still no probles or leaks

You may well get away without replacing the cartridge filter, but for a proper job I persisted and replaced it as belt and braces. Having changed it I may not bother next time depending on how the clean the oil is on the next drain.

It was not difficult just required some patience and gave the chance to paint the sump pan, all well worth doing

Note the biggest cost is the NS-3 CVT oil - keep an eye out for some on ebay or the likes, there are alternatives to genuie NIssan (not that they dont actually make the oil or the CVT transmission) cheaper alternatives are ASIN, Ravenol, Mannol, amonst others, although I went with genuine as I had aquired it well in advance for the oil change.