Changing Timing Chain Guide?

iirc the crank case has to be removed as the strainer gets caught on it but to remove that the g/boc needs to come off which is why we just drop the engine and gbox out at work and do it on the bench
 
ok so some photos

here is a photo looking directly up into the engine with the sump panel removed.
the two red are bolts which we have removed as we believe these hold the timing chain cover on.
the green line is where the timing chain cover is
the blue bolt is the bolt we cant get to but and unsure if we need to remove this or not?

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rest of the pics

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a photo of the bolt which is blocked by metal

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bolt again

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oil strainer we believe the haynes manual says to remove

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looking from the bottom of the engine at the timing chain cover

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then my phone battery died


the haynes manual is a piece of wank, the biggest waste of £20 i ever spent. it simple says remove the bolts and remove the timing chain cover... yeah real helpful.

getting the timing chain cover off is the last part so any info or help would be really great
the sump is removed mate the metal still there is the crank case mate im sure it needs to be removed which is why the gbox needs to be removed
 
just watched the vid mate and bombadier is right looks like gbox will have to come off so would probably e easier t this point to remove the engine and finish on a bench then put the lot back in as one
 
yeah i know, but.....

once i get the chain done now ill be looking to flog it.

hopefully a forum member is coming down this weekend to help get this last bit sorted.
 
today is a f**king good day!

we havent done any work on the micra for four weeks as ive been tyring to get anwsers. i even went into nissan and spoke to a machanic but he couldnt tell me what was holding on upper sump on, all he could say was you need to remove the gear box from the engine. no one on here knew the anwser.

well today after about two hours we managed to seperate the two and i now have the anwser to the question that ive been searching for, for about two months.

on the upper sump there is a lip that goes into the gear box, its about 10mm long. so you have to split not remove the gear from the engine enough to allow the lip to pass.

so we are there ready to put the new chain on and put the car back together
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the lip

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i doubt if you can do it without removing the intermediate sump andy (which is why you have to pull the g/box away from the engine iirc)
posted on jan 12th :rolleyes:

I have done this job on several occasions and what Frank is telling you is correct. The upper aluminium sump has to come off to releases the timing cover. Even if you did manage to get the cover off with sump on, you would damage the front of the Head Gasket and you would never get the cover back on.
You need to undo the Bellhousing bolts, push gearbox away from engine slightly, then undo all bolts from sump to remove. This is why as Belly 93 has said alot of people remove the engine to do this job. It can be done with engine in situ but be very carefull as when front engine mount is off and gearbox is un-bolted from engine only your jack will be supporting the engine and it will move around loads!
The red arrowed bolts in your pic are not timing case fixings, there just the front fixing bolts for the upper sump (one just happens to go into the timing case) The blue arrowed bolt is one of the fixings for the oil strainer (it has two) they are bolted into the bottom of the oil pump, which is part of the timing case (again access to these bolts is possible after removing upper sump)
Sorry unless you can seperate chain and feed it through as has been previously mentioned, there is no quick way of doing this. :(

Have you pushed the gearbox back?? It will not fully clear if the gearbox is bolted to the engine, even if it feels loose. Also sometimes they get stuck on the dipstick tube (the rubber seal goes dry and seizes in the sump.) The manifold bracket is also bolted to sump iirc so that will also need removing.
The oil stainer is bolted to the oil pump which is mounted in the front cover. It is done this way so it can be driven directly from a large keyway on the crank, instead of having a seperate chain to drive it.

we,ve been telling you for months ffs
 
no your missing my point.

i didnt question the need to seperate the two, the question was why?? and the anwser is there is a lip on the upper sump that goes into the bell housing

what was it about the upper sump that prevented it from coming away from the engine block
 
my task this week is aligning the three cogs, currently they are so so far out and nothing lines up what so ever.

anyone offer any help or any tips?

the micra workshop manual makes it sound like rocket science and haynes manual makes it sound a litte easier
 
my task this week is aligning the three cogs, currently they are so so far out and nothing lines up what so ever.

anyone offer any help or any tips?

the micra workshop manual makes it sound like rocket science and haynes manual makes it sound a litte easier

aye, pic,s of exactly where the lobes are pointing @ TDC cyl1 are a very valuable reference andy (but my advice back in jan was probably unheeded tho :D)

i align my CG,s with the lobes pointing at the side of the cap bolt (the red marks) and as long as the crank pulley is on the 2nd notch (tdc) its spot on.
but you have the vtec inlet complication too (which that guy will have sussed out i guess)

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first, you,re supposed to lock the inlet cam mechanism into the fully retarded position iirc (with an airline down the oil gallery, then peg it secure)
what diagrams does the service manual show ?
 
i don't have it in front of me as in on my phone, but it says just that.

due to the amount each cog is out i think we may need to align each
 
can anyone offer any help, im struggling to remove the camshaft sprocket

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the crappy haynes manual talks about blowing air oil passage leading to the variable valve inlet sprocket but gives no info on how to actually do it or where it is?

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ah the workshop manual, i did have this but lost it when i had to reformat my laptop.

ok so if general advice is not to remove it how do you get the main off of it and the new one on?

this engine is the worst deisng ever, where there another 5mm gap the chain would just slid off. but no... nissan decided to put the case in the way
 
ok

you said

i,ve seen a few posts warning not to remove that pulley, else you break the mechanism inside (key the next "help me" plea :D

so how do you get the chain over that pulley?
 
um so use a spanner to stop it turning then use a wrench on the bolt?

tried this today and could undo it, this is why we thought it need to be done a special way?
 
ok so the 14mm bolt holding the camshaft sprocket on is a normal bolt and turns the normal way? its not some silly bolt thats threaded in reverse or anything?
 
removing this sprocket is rocket science and me and my old man just arent getting it.

so we did as the book said and applied a 3bar pressure air feed, but not tick or noise. how can removing this sprocket damage a pin? surely if its strong enugh to drive and engine taking it off wont damage it.

also it seems this pin is internal to the cog so once again how can removing it damage it??
 
ok so after doing a bit of research am i correct.

the pins in the vvt sprocket stop the centre from turning seperatly from the outside of the cog.

so the reason for disengaging them is so when tightening or undoing the bolt that holds it on you dont bend of break the pins due to the tension in the chain which goes round the cog on the outside.

or am i taking crap?

so in theory you could take the tension out the chain, then just undo this sprocket without disengaging the pins and as there is no tension in the chain you would damage the pins.

right or wrong??
 
i,m not sure andy, my understanding is that you have to lock the pulley so that the valve timing is set to the correct position, (get that wrong and the inlet cam will be out of phase, and might bend the valves when the vvl kicks in at speed !)
 
I agree with frank....... unless you took the chain off when vvt was engaged (impossible coz engine would be running) the timing will be wrong and may bend valves. Try more air pressurw... I usually use a w/shop airline 10bar
 
the way i look at it is currently the pins are locking so the units turns as one whole thing.

im assuming the pins are engaged (disengaged whatever) and locked is cos thats how they ended up when the engine was last stopped.

also when we say engage/disengaged/locked what do we actually mean. in my mind the pins are currently engaged and lock as the whole unit turns as one. im assuming if the pins were disengaged the middle would turn but the chain would not.
 
currently the chain is off although sprockets are still on. P1 is set to TDC.

maybe my mind thinks in strange ways but, turn the engine off and it will set the vvt how it wants it for when you next start the engine.

remove the chain put a new one on and you shouldnt need to touch the vvt as you have not touched it.

generally speaking the marks on each three sprockets are pretty aligned to each other but the marks on the chain are mega out. none of the three marks on the chain are near the marks on the sprockets so im wondering if the chain may have jumped?? dont see how else they could be so out.
 
nope nothing new fitted yet, all we have done is remove the old chain.

i wanted to get this vvt thing sorted first before fitting anything new. i have a small 3.2bar compressor which i have tried but didnt seem to lock/unlock any pins
 
i would try the new chain mate, but if they all line up ok , you may need to turn the engine about 40 times for the links to line up again
 
why 40 times? i thought it was just two rotations?

if i line everything up and put the chain on and turn the engine by hand will this show any timing errors? or wont it activate the vvt?
 
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