cg13 powered mini no oil pressure when hot

tommmtom

tommmtom

Hi there :)

Wondering if anyone can help with a few problems I have.

I have a cg13de engine that for some reason I decided would be a good idea to stick into a 1970 mini..

Anyway, I took it out today and when the engine was hot, the oil pressure vanished. 0 psi at hot idle, ~25 psi at 3.5k

After this happened I let it cool and was getting ~70psi at cold idle.

Before this sudden loss of pressure I was getting ~20 psi at hot idle and up to 100 psi when revved up.

It's using all the standard nissan fueling and ignition
Custom made inlet and exhaust manifold
Stock ecu

I also had poor running under acceleration (miss fire, bogging down, stalling etc)
I had error code 21 (ignition signal circuit) so cleaned up all the plugs and distributor bits. It then ran really well when I tried it, but now is back with the stuttering.
Also I have gained another Fault code (11 this time) something wrong with my camshaft angle sensor?

Any help would be brilliant :) Cheers!!
 
mine overheated the other week tom, and the light came on and the engine simply cut out (3rd lane on the M6 !) then when it cooled down it started ok.
mine was just a thermostat issue, and when i checked the code it was "overheat" (forget what code number)
 
Hi frank cheers for the quick reply!
I did notice a bit of hissing from my radiator cap...temp readings were about 75°C for oil and water though. I'm sure I still have a few air locks in the cooling system though

I can't understand the low oil pressure though, and that's what's worrying me :(
 
are you sure the water temp reading was correct tom ? because i cooked my engine at mallory park last year and vaporised the oil, this is what happens to the bigend shells when you have no oil pressure :)

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I took out the thermostat today because I couldn't see any flow in the radiator neck... could see loads after taking it out. Checked the stat in the kitchen with boiling water and it opens slowly to about 6 mm. ... dodgy thermostat?

Oil pressure at idle went from about 70 cold to 45 warm to 12-18 hot then went to 0... pressure came back with a little revving

I'm going to have a look at the pressure relief valve hopefully on Thursday. Will I be able to get at the oil pump from the sump? Haynes is in the garage and It's raining :p

Plan is......take engine out of mini, take sump off, clean all the crap out of the sump and oil pick up gauze, check oil pump and relief valve, new thermostat

Then new oil and filter.... can't really see what else I can do :/

Cheers guys :)
 
joe (C0llis0n) had an engine that kept losing oil pressure iirc, the crank has 2 keyways on the tail (1 for the pump drive, and 1 for the pulley) worth checking they are both there :)
 
tommmtom said:
I took out the thermostat today because I couldn't see any flow in the radiator neck... could see loads after taking it out. Checked the stat in the kitchen with boiling water and it opens slowly to about 6 mm. ... dodgy thermostat?
Click to expand...

I heated mine up in a pan till boiling (heat initially takes awhile to soak into the cold wax).
turn hob off and monitor if its fully open whilst above rated temp and then if it fully closes near the rated temp

 
Almost finished the rebuild. Just gotta do a few more bits then it's ready to go back in the mini! Fingers crossed it goes well :)


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I found a shed load of black solids/gunk throughout the engine (dried oil?) Also the head gasket had seen better days. And the oil pump was scored pretty badly and just outside tolerance. The crank case breather was blocked completely with black stuff. And the timing chain tensioners were at the end of their travel!
 
Nope frank engine is all standard...for now! Apart from I had to make a completely new inlet manifold for it and I also made a 4-2-1 exhaust for it from scratch! I will do when I get time :p
Any pics of anything you fancy seeing though let me know I have hundreds :rolleyes:
 
It's not apart any more haha :( I'm also starting to build up another cg13 to put in and it will be turbod!!
What bore size do the corsa pistons need?
 
72.5mm of the top of my head. @frank is the master when it comes to the corsa pistons.I'm sure he turbo'd his corsa piston engine. ;)
 
Last edited:
aye 72.5 iirc, and yes the turbo,d lowcomp corsa piston one was ragged round mallory, but yours is the skimmed block high comp variety eh :)
 
Yeah mine is high comp not much use for a turbo but I am planning a low comp build ( closed deck block, 1.4 crank and rods) for a turbo, won't be for a while though
 
Enuo said:
Someone should try a CG14 73mm piston... ;)
Click to expand...


stop spoiling the surprise :p


current plan is closed deck 1.3 block with 73.4mm corsa piston and 1.4 crank and rods. Its all down to if i can get bigger liners fitted safely


anyway thats all for a different thread ;)
 
Quick question... Engine is running brill apart from one thing; when I accelerate hard from low revs the engine stutters and hesitates and almost stalls itself. If I wait a few few seconds it picks up again and I can Rev it right up properly. Also if it's at say 2k and I floor it it picks up fine.
If I start the engine in exhaust gas test mode and drive, every time it does the stutter the ecu led lights up (lean running) do I have sticking injectors or something? Not enough fuel pressure? No ecu fault codes and throttle body has been soldered
Cheers guys :)
 
Frank, I've got a fuel rail off a ga16 heading my way. Would I be best off using the fuel reg off the ga16 too or keep the cg13 one?
 
okay so fitted ga16 injectors and picks up alittle better. Then realised i hadn't done the timing :oops: timing was waaaaay out (like 10deg atdc :s) so did that to 15deg btdc and the engine ran pretty badly with lots of back firing etc :/
re timed it at about 10deg btdc and runs much better, but still finds it hard to pick up revs from idle when hot. not nearly as badly as before though! Why would setting 15deg btdc make it run so poorly? :( anyone have any suggestions? :)
 
yes mate, mine is a £17 obd1 plug and free software, you can see on this vid that the idle is running at 6 or 8 deg, then when i ease the clutch out to stall the engine the ecu increases the timing to 18 deg to stop the engine from stalling, then i dip the clutch and the timing drops back down (mine has idle control valve delete)

 
apart from this stuttering from idle the engine runs brill! oh except for the MASSIVE blue cloud of smoke when i reach about 6500rpm :confused::(
 
tommmtom said:
ah yeah i see! so just unplug or remove and blank off? sweet :) all the k11's are obd1? i think my dad has one of them somewhere :)
Click to expand...
mine was removed to fit the coilpack topfeed rail mate, and for a more stable idle, and yes block the hole underneath (rubber pipe with a plug in the middle shoved into mine)
and pre 2000 are obd1 :)
 
Okay I'll give that a go and see what happens :)
With the blue smoke could that be the breather from the pcv valve on the cam cover letting loads of vapours into my inlet?
When the engine was apart i checked the rings and they were all good so can't imagine it would be them but who knows :-(
 

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