Car won't start/turn over

[Craig]

2000 1l manual

Alright chaps, any of the old skool still about?

After football the other week, turned the key in the ignition to go home, nothing. Tried to jump it, same problem so it must be something to do with the starter. It seems to catch for one second, but then the electric power cuts out (gauges drop down to 0). I was able to bump start it so don't think it is a NATS problem (I hope not!). When I try to start it in gear it does move forward a little bit so I think the starter is trying to turn, but then all power is lost.

Fuses are all fine, from what I can see the earths are fine, what's the internet diagnosis (seeing as I can't start it to drive it to a garage...)?

On to my next point, I have probably 2 or 3 starter motors in my garage; what is the compatability across the years/engine sizes?

Ta

 

[frank]

bloody nora
2 types of starter iirc craig, over g/box one, and under manifold one, both different, and sounds like a dodgy connection to me

 

[Ed]

Need more info Craig. Do lights come on etc? Engine doesn't turn over? Anything else not work as it should?

 

[Craig]

Alright Frank?

Over gearbox type, I had a tug at the connections and they seemed fine, is there anywhere obvious that it's likely to have gotten loosed?

Ta

 

[frank]

Alright Frank?

Over gearbox type, I had a tug at the connections and they seemed fine, is there anywhere obvious that it's likely to have gotten loosed?

Ta

on my pre-face the batt + splits to the starter and 2 fat white leads mate, 1 to the alt and 1 feed for everything iirc, praps a problem there ?

 

[pollyp]

check for weak/drying battery and weak/corroded battery connection down to the starter.
if there's insufficient juice going to the starter, it may not be enough for the solenoid to engage the pinion onto the fly and/or crank the engine.

when I was relocating my battery, I had to sever the battery-to-starter grounding cable and ground the new battery to the starter through the chassis.
but a weak corroded contact between the starter-to-chassis cable made engagement difficult or random.
once I wirebrushed down to metal where the grounding cables touch the chassis, it starts strong every time now.
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-16#post-439906

another fault was a worn ign switch stuck between START and IGN = no connection = no dashlights etc till I quickly nudge it back to IGN to re-establish connection and engine runs
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-29#post-460614

 

[Craig]

How do I quote thee days???

Sorry, didn't se your post Ed, the only otr things which do not work as they should are the interior light door switch and e rear wiper (which clicks but does not wipe). although if you mean when I crnk it then I do not knw, I suspect nohing, but I will chck and let you know...

Lights + other accesories work fine, car was fine once it was bump started but would nt jump start, which makes me think it is something to do with the starter.

I will have a fiddle with the ignition switch - however it is impossible crank it over, i does one 'chug' (when it starts it goes chug, chug, chug, broom! ) and then all power seems to be cut.

I might have the battery out and check the earth under there as it does feel like it is shorting out somewhere, although suppose it would blow a fuse if it was doing that?

Ta

 

[superls]

could be starter solenoid, common problem on lost of cars, give it a clout while cranking, see if that does it,

 

[Craig]

A bit of mechanical persuasion eh? I'm up for that - where do I hit and in what direction? I presume that I need to spank it with all my might?

Ta

 

[frank]

i doubt if its a starter fault if your gauges are dropping to zero craig

 

[r-reg-sr]

heres how to by pass the ign switch , to start the car by wire,(3 way wire) insert into plug you pull off the switch

if i aint miss'd anything pollyp relayed me

when you turn the key to ACC:
-barrel connects the black/white wire (12v live) to the white wire (clock backlight / radio / ACC relay1 for cig lighter & wipers / IGN Relay2 for heater fan)

when you turn to IGN:
-barrel connects the black/white wire (12v) to the white wire (accessaries)
-connects black/white wire(12v) to the green/white wire (IGN Relay1 for instrument cluster, demister, elec windows / ecu 12v power / injectors / ign coils / fuel pump relay)

when you start:
-barrel cuts off the white wire (accessaries)
-connects the black/white wire (12v) to the green/white wire (ecu/injectors/ign coil & fuel pump)
-connects black/white wire (12v) to black/red wire (starter),
-connects black/white wire (12v) to the red wire(tells ecu you're starting the car)

 

[Craig]

By way of an update, I played with this at the weekend, connections seem fine. I tried turning over again - the headlights remained on, accessories turned off when attmpting to crank.

By sticking my head in the engine bay, I could hear a distinct knock(I presume the solenoid actuating) when the key was turned, but nothing after that.

My conclusion is that the starter motor is knackered - a likely explanation or does that point to something else?

Ta,

 

[James]

Ey up Craig! Long time no speak!

Just FYI, to quote on this forum, click the Reply link next to the post you want to quote

Good luck with the K11, I'm tempted with another one!

 

[superls]

By way of an update, I played with this at the weekend, connections seem fine. I tried turning over again - the headlights remained on, accessories turned off when attmpting to crank.

By sticking my head in the engine bay, I could hear a distinct knock(I presume the solenoid actuating) when the key was turned, but nothing after that.

My conclusion is that the starter motor is knackered - a likely explanation or does that point to something else?

Ta,

id take motor off and test it on the bench to rule it in or out

 

[r-reg-sr]

have you checked ignition switch? you wont get any cranking or just the clicking you describe
rule that out first then next step.

 

[superls]

measure voltage on starter should be full battery voltage when cranking, if it is then chect the voltage at the solenoid when cranking, if that is bat volts then problem is starter

 

[pollyp]

 

[Craig]

Diagnosis - solenoid worked, motor didn't, now trying to source a starter from fleabay, seems that mine has an odd part number which is a right pain!