Best Induction Kit

hoodedreeper

hoodedreeper

Ex. Club Member
Hello,

Im after an induction kit which will give the most gains. I've done a search on the forum but nothing answered my question. I know a Panel Filter works ALOT better than a cone,as i'm using one at the moment. But im after something which is better. I had a DIY induction kit,but that never worked too well. Whether it was because it was set up wrong...or if the Cone Filter was crap...im not sure.

I've heard and seen alot of people using the K&N 57-0211 kit but that only includes the Filter head and a cold air feed. Im after a kit that has all the recommended pipe work etc included. If need be,i'll get it made up myself. My old set up looked like this:

5840_236108495310_791575310_7802361_1960612_n.jpg


Came up with this idea (5mins in Photoshop later...)

induction.gif


Idea came from Solarice's car:

S8001841.jpg


I know his set up is for something completely different,but its a better way to get cold air,rather than tucked behind the battery. I'll get a custom shield to go around the filter to stop water being sucked into it (as me and cold air feeds dont mix....some may remember ;))

Will this work? Is there another filter with the same/better gains other than a K&N (Green Cotton/PiperCross/BMC etc)
 
to be honest i never really though air filters and cold air feeds made that much difference to an engine of our sizes.
looks like you have a good plan drawn up though. (oh and your quick photoshop looks like a penis.) (Y)
but im just childish - Good Luck! hope you get it sorted out.
 
Matt does a group A induction setup like your 'shop hooded, bit expensive though.

Im sure somone will say get a ga16 airbox and performance panel and move on lol
 
I'm using some ducting running from the front by the horns, into my std air box, could just do that with the performance panel filter? Or was the point you're after proper metal tubing?
 
ive seen matt humpris group A induction set up on a standard engine and it was amazing i could jus never swallow £250 for one
 
One thing i always wondered was turning the battery thru 90 degrees (or locate it to the boot) so you could heatproof that corner of the bay and take air from there that feed from the arch or summit.
 
^thats a good idea;)

alot of work really for whats only going to be a 1-3bhp gain, its all down to the condition of the engine, no point having loads of air availible and having clogged injectors/carb jets, mixture wrong, inlet manifold resembling a collection of straws etc etc... get the engine built to actually make use of more air (ported/polished head/cams/displacement increase etc) then you'll get more from a filter ;)

or just duct tape a leafblower to the induction pipe and wire a switch to your gearknob that says 'go baby go' :D
 
Manny, its hard to say.
I saw loads of people with the induction kits in the first picture of the thread and thought 'what difference will taht make, other than the noise?'

So I done a bit of research into where you can gain power with an induction kit.

Temperature. Colder air is denser. Mine is made of alloy pipe and wrapped in heat reflective tape.

Length and shape. Shorter and straighter gives the air less chance to heat up. Taking the engine out the road would lose power so my kit takes the most direct route. (Other than putting a big 50s hot rod bonnet scoop on!)

Volume. You need there to be lots of air ready to be sucked in for better throttle response. I found an HKS filter and a load of alloy piping lying about the workshop. Plenty volume!

Position. Being mounted low and in direct line of wind should cause a ram effect forcing the cool air in.

So on paper my induction kit should work. I don't have any figures to compare it to and I have not done enough to warrant a visit to the dyno.

Sounds great and the air appears to be getting into the engine ok.

As for driving thru puddles or washing the car I just won't drive it thru big puddles and I'll be careful washing it!
 
As mentioned in the past. The standard airbox is fine for a standard car. Start tinkering with a janspeed exhaust system and ecu tweeks from Ed and the standard airbox soon becomes a restriction. Start fitting cams and things become even more of a problem.

Very few people on the MSC actually go past bolting on a Janspeed exhaust system and fitting an air filter, so in all honesty a GA16 airbox and panel will be fine for the majority. It's good for the budget, keeps things sensible and doesn't smash holes in your wallet.....it's easy to re-sell too :)
 
what about a cold feed from the windscreen scuttle/gutter/cabin intake area through the bulkhead into the filter? i once saw a tech article on autospeed.com where the fella tried it. there's some positive pressure there, cold air shielded from rain at speed. though might be abit noisy but most prob only during full throttle
 
No good on a carbed engine as the fuel fumes could fill the cabin through the blower intake, making the driver high/passed out
 
pollyp said:
what about a cold feed from the windscreen scuttle/gutter/cabin intake area through the bulkhead into the filter? i once saw a tech article on autospeed.com where the fella tried it. there's some positive pressure there, cold air shielded from rain at speed. though might be abit noisy but most prob only during full throttle
Click to expand...

i think your idea has merit paul, remove the cai trunking and fit a 90deg bend from the airbox through the baulkhead panel eh :cool: (no enginebay heat and that slight positive pressure)
 
hooded its mr bling here have you thought about cutting a hole in the left hand side of the bumper (passenger side) and gettin a pipe made up from the front of the bumper through the hole that is in the chassis leg then bolted up to a filter like what you used to have or like i used to have

if you look under the radiator tank next to the battery there is a hole that leads to the bumper or behind the passanger wheel and there is nothing there really as thats what i was going to do take my angel eye lights out then cold air feed from the passanger side up through a pipe under the tank then to my filter which would be fully incased in a heat proof shield so only cold air from the front of the car would be getting to the filter but thats just my idea
 
Floods? Heavy rain? What sort of country do you people stay in?
In all my time as a mechanic (about 100 years or so) I've saw 4 engines that have hydraulic'd.
1. A Train engine at college.
2. A V6 Vectra that had been driven into a lake.
3. An Astra diesel (police car) that had er, been driven into a lake.
4. A Mitsubishi Lancer (not an evo) that had been driven in very heavy rain.

Point I'm trying to make is unless you regulary have to drive in very heavy rain or along flooded roads regularly (and I'm talking about the U.K. at its very worst) the chances of your engine hydraulicing are very small.

The point as I see it of fitting an induction kit is to make the car sound better or go faster. If your fear of your car hydraulicing your engine is greater than your desire to go fast and sound good leave the standard one on. But even then, if you drive through a big enough body of water, unless you have an off road type snorkel for your throttle body you will hydraulic your engine. No point driving along on maximum buttock clench because there is a spot of drizzle! LOL!

The GA16 air filter is an improvement over the standard, the one most people on here have (Picture 1) is better than the GA16 one but if you want better still you have to make your own. If you are making your own you might as well make one with the largest capacity to direct air into the throttle body using the shortest route to keep the air under pressure and dense.

The 'thru' the bulkhead idea would have a double use. As many people on here stay in such wet conditions having a big pipe sucking air from the interior would make a great ashtray to save the driver having to open the window and risk tidal rain rushing in! LOL!
 
also getawaycar looking at the pics....even if were that the filter was soaked in any situation the suction from the engine wouldnt carry the water strate up, it would just stay in the induction filter realy so there isnt any worrys of it even getting to the TB to have any affect on the engine.

hooded, ive got the carbon BMC induction on my almera and it seems ok with throttle responce, you could try one of them? i did have the viper induction on my first k11 with the air ducht in the front grill and it was the biggest waste of £200 there was no diffrance in perfomance at all. i once read in a fast ford mag that an induction kit is totaly pontless unless used in turbo application or very highly tuned n/a and that people claiming to have "noticed any gains" to a low tuned engine was to do with the power of surgestion. also tuneing compans have r/r diffrent cars with and without a induction kit and there was a max of 1bhp gaind and some even lost power but most didnt show any change at all.

so i would say your probs best sticking with what you have or get a GA16/better filter or the likes and i dont think air ducht route is a problem or going make a differance in anyway shape or form.
 
i took my standard filter out the standard filter box and its empty now cause i took the filter out of it (hope no rats find theyr way in theyr?)
that photo shop pic ? looks funnny
is that sort of thing allowed on here
 
R-REG-SR said:
i took my standard filter out the standard filter box and its empty now cause i took the filter out of it (hope no rats find theyr way in theyr?)
that photo shop pic ? looks funnny
is that sort of thing allowed on here
Click to expand...

thats not a good idea it will suck alot ov crap and may damage engine.
 
Just went out and took a few pics of my setup. i bought everything seperatly as its part of my secret project :wasntme:. its a pipercross filter by the way.

IMG_0224[1]..JPG
IMG_0223[2]..JPG
IMG_0225[2]..JPG
 
Manny said:
small particles and debris. why do they have a airfilter for then?
Click to expand...

well its to stop crap like you say getting in. what annoys me is people scaremongering going on as if the car will brake at the sugestion of removeing it or cutting holes in the air box.... B O L L O C K S!

we've been using a k11 in the yard for over a year now to carry the oxy acetylene tanks, welders, tools, stihl saws ect ect ect. it has no bonnet, no airbox, no filter its done over 150k miles its drove around in fields, mud, gravel, oil the works and not once has it gave up the gost, splutterd, faid to start, broke down in any way shape or form and its uses evry day come rain snow or sun shine and its just left out in the elerments every night uncoverd.

so can you explane to me how takeing a filter out of a airbox is going to damage the engine?
 
at some point it will block up. look at a panel filter and see how black it goes thats all the dust. well removing isnt the sensible thing to do. i dont want to have a debate with you. see if you can tell everyone not to use or buy a airfilter.
 
well i do know this as i work with cars for a living and more often than not im under the bonnet of a car so belive it or not i do know what a used filter looks like. its going to take a hek of a lot of dirty air to block up a throttle body isnt it? :glare:

buy yes R-REG-SR it is there for a reason and i would advise to have some form of filter (people may moan if you dont) as prolonged usage without one may damage the engine (yea a cupple of years down the line)
 
a couple of years isnt that long really. people might wanna keep their cars longer than that. lol. this thread is about whats the best induction kit?
 
If dust did get in, how would it damage the engine exactly? Consider that we breathe in the same 'dust'

An engine is a massive lump of metal, I don't think a little bit of dust is going to damage it. That's why I don't use a filter in winter and in summer I just use a fine mesh, and that's just to stop bugs jamming up my carb.
 
The reason you don't want to run without a filter is if too many fine particles collect on the mass airflow sensor wire it will overheat and burn out. In this country that obviously happens as the amount of threads on this board about throttle bodies should confirm.

Looks good Alexx but a bit long for my liking. Don't fancy tightening the fanbelt with that in the way either.
 
yes that is true but is not going "burn out" its just not going to read correct, and most all the throttle body threads is to do with the re-soldering?
 
the fine mesh sounds good - just incase people dont like me any more - not that i like myself much
but true some sort of filter like the mesh to be on the safe side
 
as i mentioned, the cowl induction intake provides a source of cool, positively pressured air guarded from water and road dirt/debris
 
getawaycar said:
The reason you don't want to run without a filter is if too many fine particles collect on the mass airflow sensor wire it will overheat and burn out. In this country that obviously happens as the amount of threads on this board about throttle bodies should confirm.

Looks good Alexx but a bit long for my liking. Don't fancy tightening the fanbelt with that in the way either.
Click to expand...

Its not near any belts really, if needs be then its easily movable :)
 

Similar threads

D
induction kit
Replies
3
Views
2K
sonic
sonic
D
which induction kit
Replies
23
Views
2K
dogrosie
D
ianrobinson1989
Best induction placement???
2 3
Replies
128
Views
14K
Shamalam
Shamalam
1
Induction kit
Replies
12
Views
2K
Ian
I
Titch
Induction kit Change
Replies
15
Views
3K
K11_Dave
K
Back
Top