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@Gertinos by curiosity what's the brand of the MAF you used?

Another day, another hiccup, check engine light got on. Car was running right but a bit rich/over fueling (70KM for a quarter of a fuel gauge), like if the O2 sensor was disconnected. After a quick OBD scan, faulty O2 sensor indeed: « Funny » thing is that the manifold O2 sensor is a brand...

While removing the old fuel pump to install the used one I bought from EBay, I quickly understood what happened, the hose connected to the fuel pump got damaged and disconnected itself from the pump. Didn’t bother myself to fix it and swapped it with the whole new assembly. Car is now working...

Well after a few days working great, the car stopped in the middle of the road and didnt crank anymore, even while flooring the throttle, got to get it back home and look whats wrong :LOL:

Hi -Clean the Bosch IACV module on the back of the throttle body, to do that you need to remove the airbox, remove the different meshes on top of the throttle body, then you will see a hole above the throttle body flap, spray generously some carburetor cleaner in it. Wait for a few hours and...

The IACV was indeed the culprit. I did remove all the meshes (metal and plastic) above the throttle body, sprayed carburetor cleaner inside the IACV inlet, and the car started and idled correctly first try!

Thanks for the hint, the Bosch electronic ICV module is definitely on the list too. They don’t seem adjustable so I’ll probably try to reuse the one from the original 1L engine.

It’s been a long journey. Completed the low mileage CGA3 swap, 1L flywheel, low mileage 1L gearbox, new clutch, new suspensions, new sensors. Refurbished the whole engine loom. Took the car for a drive test, started 1st attempt, pulled hard and smooth, but back home it started to stall while...

That might be a start:

Well got stuck while trying to split the engine from the gearbox. Been removed the 4 bolts holding the 2 together plus the back support one, but can’t separate them to grab the flywheel out. Any idea? Am I missing something?

So in the end I had to remove both the engine and the attached gearbox as a whole. Because of the plate in between on the facelift models. Therefore I had to remove the driveshafts. RHD side went out smoothly but LHD been a nightmare. The part of the driveshaft connected to the gearbox did stay...

Good job !

Looks like your best chance is to indeed watch out local scrappies and regularly ask them if they receive a 2000-2002 facelift in. For people offering to disable the NATS it depends where you live. Just by googling NATS immo off or by looking on Ebay you should find a few people.

Had the exact same problem. On a 2002 1.0, exactly like your partners. In the end, after testing everything (fuel pump, injectors, coilpacks) and finding out everything was ok, I bought an ECU set: ECU, barel transponder reader, and the key. Cranked first try. The relief. Your other option is...

Silicone hoses removed Manifold and cat removed Radiator removed Bonnet locking mechanism removed Trying to find the bolts holding the engine to the gearbox, I’m routing for the Frank method, leaving the gearbox and driveshaft in.

Bit of progress. ECU removed and ready to be shipped to Mark from Tornado. Got the car on jack stands+front wheels on planks of wood. Started to dismantle things inside the engine bay. Front panel unscrewed. Engine oil, coolant and and gearbox oil flushed. Injectors and coilpacks labelled and...

Well, I was looking for guides/infos about swaping the lighter 1L crank pulley but just found a post from @frank not recommending doing it: https://micra.org.uk/threads/pulleys.35269/#post-381333 Also well decided to clean the stock injectors as both @Ed from Fusion and Mark from Tornados say...

Some updates on what I gathered / left to do: Done: Gave the block a good clean with some degreaser and elbow grease Removed the old clutch and flywheel on the CGA3, Removed the heavy AC models specific alternator bracket plate and pulley. Gave the MAF a good clean Bought or found in my spare...

Paul, funny how the answer you gave in the previous thread is exactly the same as mine (even tho I didn't read yours before) :) Also talking about MAF sensor cleaner, dedicated sprays from CRC or LiquiMoly used to be widely available for cheap, now they're both hard to find and cost an arm!