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My Micra K11 1.0

S

Swordfish

Hi, first of all let me introduce myself. I'm Rick and i'm from the netherlands. I have a Micra K11 1.0 LX from 1992. It has some little dents in its body but hey, its a car from 92.
so i began to modify my micra about a year ago. this was my micra in the first stage (without the aftermarket exhaust).

dsc00961oud.jpg


dsc01009klein.jpg


this is my Micra nowadays:

afbeelding001klein.jpg


dsc01217klein.jpg


dsc01220klein.jpg


modifications:
- Free Flow Exhaust
- Simota Cold air intake
- first decat
- 35mm lowered
- 1.3 Camshafts
- Race steering wheel
- aluminium alloys
- strut bar
- HID Xenon Kit
- painted grill
- backspoiler
- rev counter
- sound sytem
- flex screen wipers
- made backscreen wiper horizontaly
- some optic mods

some videos:

[video=youtube;kOBy-Ppy5-g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOBy-Ppy5-g[/video]

[video=youtube;IY633n37ReY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY633n37ReY[/video]

[video=youtube;O_1WHwcE0sc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_1WHwcE0sc[/video]

[video=youtube;N6T17taLeTY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6T17taLeTY[/video]

[video=youtube;ssSyKKMpgRk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssSyKKMpgRk[/video]

Future mods:
- painting brake calipers red
- painting the front bumper and install new fog lights
- install a new left door because of a dent
- decat the 2nd cat
- polish the paint
- make light spoilers
- MS-design side-skirts
- MS-design rear bumper
- MS-design rear spoiler
- winddeflectors
- Install painted doorhandles

Stuff lying around:
- Carbon look window foil
- Side skirts
- rear bumper
- rear spoiler
- winddeflectors
- fog lights
- left door
- painted doorhandles
 
Another left side driver :D Welcome !
I like the new color, the roof window and the little spoiler :D
Cheers !

Seb
 
Seb_ said:
Another left side driver :D Welcome !
I like the new color, the roof window and the little spoiler :D
Cheers !

Seb
Click to expand...

it's not a new color, the pink-ish colour is because of my camera :) some pics are taken with a phone camera. The colour on the last picture is its colour in real life.

heres another picture:

afbeelding002rr.jpg
 
thank you!

ive got a new first cat for my car. its just a straight pipe :D so more power.




I can get a set of 1.3 shafts. So do you guys know if its hard to replace it by yourself. Or do i need to go to the garage, so they can do it? and are there any risks on motorandurance?
and how much more power do you think it will give (In HP)?
 
Swordfish said:
I can get a set of 1.3 shafts. So do you guys know if its hard to replace it by yourself. Or do i need to go to the garage, so they can do it? and are there any risks on motorandurance?
and how much more power do you think it will give (In HP)?
Click to expand...

1.3 cams are well worth fitting if you diy rick, but its only a 5hp gain and garages charge £100+ for fitting
 
frank said:
1.3 cams are well worth fitting if you diy rick, but its only a 5hp gain and garages charge £100+ for fitting
Click to expand...

hmm ok 5 HP is worth it i think. 5 HP on 60 HP is still 8,3% performance gain :) but how hard is it to fit the cams? and how long does it take?

edit: i think its only taking the headgasket off. Mark where the chains are on the cams. then take chains off the cams. after that undo the bolts of the cams. Then i take the cams out and switch and replace them. Am i right?
 
sorry i meant the cover on top of the cams ;)

ok i see that the bumps on the 1.3 cam are higher than the bumps of the 1.0 cam. but do i have to bolt the bolts of the bearings with a curtain force? i mean with a Nm-wrench/spanner?

and what do you mean with ''my inlet had ben advanced a bit''?
 
Swordfish said:
sorry i meant the cover on top of the cams ;)

ok i see that the bumps on the 1.3 cam are higher than the bumps of the 1.0 cam. but do i have to bolt the bolts of the bearings with a curtain force? i mean with a Nm-wrench/spanner?

and what do you mean with ''my inlet had ben advanced a bit''?
Click to expand...

yes rick, the bolts need to be tightened to the correct torque, and the reprofiled inlet cam had to be adjusted forwards (by filing the location dowel, circled in pic) in order to make the engine less "peaky" and to give it more grunt :)
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13842&stc=1&d=1259253379
 

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frank said:
yes rick, the bolts need to be tightened to the correct torque, and the reprofiled inlet cam had to be adjusted forwards (by filing the location dowel, circled in pic) in order to make the engine less "peaky" and to give it more grunt :)
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13842&stc=1&d=1259253379
Click to expand...

Aha, do you know with how much torque the bolts need to be bolted on?

Can i replace the cams 1 on 1? or do i also have to adjust the inlet cam?

Also thanks for the fast replies (Y)
 
Swordfish said:
Aha, do you know with how much torque the bolts need to be bolted on?

Can i replace the cams 1 on 1? or do i also have to adjust the inlet cam?

Also thanks for the fast replies (Y)
Click to expand...

the sprocket bolts are 113nm and the bearing caps 11nm
i had to advance my misses,s cams to account for chain wear (covered in my blog iirc) and the clearances are usually within spec, (if not you will need a different size shim or shims) :)
 
frank said:
the sprocket bolts are 113nm and the bearing caps 11nm
i had to advance my misses,s cams to account for chain wear (covered in my blog iirc) and the clearances are usually within spec, (if not you will need a different size shim or shims) :)
Click to expand...

ok thanks for the info on the torque.

can u tell me if im right with the steps in the picture..

20090408icarm0039medium.jpg
 
frank said:
very similar rick (we have no vari-valve inlet tho eh) :)
Click to expand...

Ok i noticed that, but the steps are the same? next saturday my brother and i are going to the junkyard to get some cams for a small price. we then can also practice for my own micra cams :p just to be sure everything goes ok.
 
Swordfish said:
Ok i noticed that, but the steps are the same?
Click to expand...

yes, pretty much, i still say do them one at a time tho, and push a wooden wedge between the chain/sprocket and head (as in pic) this will stop the chain jumping out of position when the pressure from the valvesprings twist the cams round, without the chain to hold them in place
and i find that most gains are from the inlet cam personally :)
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13855&stc=1&d=1259441527
 

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ok thank you for clarifying. :) but ive got another question. how do i prevent the chain tensioner from extracting? because i've heard that if it's extracted you dont get the tensioner in the original extracting point.
 
Swordfish said:
ok thank you for clarifying. :) but ive got another question. how do i prevent the chain tensioner from extracting? because i've heard that if it's extracted you dont get the tensioner in the original extracting point.
Click to expand...

most tensioners have a little notch that stops it coming fully out (arrowed) else you have to remove the tensioner and twist the spring mechanism to retract it, but mine has,nt got one, and i have to slide a bit of wire in (you can
see the bicycle spoke sticking out when i changed my inlet cam this morning)
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13863&stc=1&d=1259768717
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=13864&stc=1&d=1259768717
 

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from what date is you k11? and what serie is it? GX,LX,SS? because maybe i also have one like you. if i have so, do i need to press the notch down or something? or do i need to put a wire in a hole of the tensioner?

if i have to remove the tensioner, do i have to drain the oil for it?
 
Swordfish said:
from what date is you k11? and what serie is it? GX,LX,SS? because maybe i also have one like you. if i have so, do i need to press the notch down or something? or do i need to put a wire in a hole of the tensioner?

if i have to remove the tensioner, do i have to drain the oil for it?
Click to expand...

mine,s a bit of everything rick :wasntme: you will see if there,s a notch or not, and i just poke the wire where the arrow in the pic is, if it comes out you have to remove the engine mount and the steel cover and unbolt the tensioner, then you can reset the spring mech and squeeze the oil out (then you must push it right back after the chain is fitted for the spring mech to release fully) :)
 
Tommorow i get my upper strut bar :D i will take a picture of it when ive got it fitted.

also my 1.3 cams should come in and i will get some gaskets for my manifold, so i can fit my new emptied cat.

ive also got a question. i saw this item on rallynuts.com: a powerboost valve. is this a standalone upgrade or do i have to buy more parts to fit it? and how much does it improve the performance?

http://rallynuts.com/motorsport/K11_Tuning_2084/FSE_Power_Boost_Valve_Nissan_Micra_K11_3107.asp


edit: got my strut bar in :D


dsc01285b.jpg
 
frank where did you get the signal from for you revcounter? also from the blue wire that comes out the dissy?

and if i put some tape over the square hole then the rev limiter schould be off? or how did you do it?
 
When you do the dizzy mod to take the limiter up, the engine can rev to 9.000rpm, but in 3rd, 4th and 5th it only revs to 7350rpm, because the ECU cuts the fuel. The best way to make it rev to high rpm without cutting is a remap.
 
hmm a remap isnt gonna happen, because i think thats to expensive and i dont think its worth it on the car.

Last week i bought a new revcounter with a new instrument holder, because the revcounter in the video doesnt work anymore. so saturday i can read out my revs again. Then i will think if im gonna raise the revlimiter.


Ooh i forgot. I also got some MS-design sideskirts, rear bumper and spoiler in te shed :D so now i got a complete set. I still got pleny to do on the micra :p
 
Finished my new rev-counter:

[video=youtube;IFuplUJrhBs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFuplUJrhBs[/video]

Got my 0-100 km/h time on video. first attempt was not good because my brother got the wrong gear. the 5th instead of 3rd :p.

[video=youtube;_Ux6qWO9HrM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ux6qWO9HrM[/video]

second attempt:

[video=youtube;g27GB41xKyE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g27GB41xKyE[/video]

Note that we have sligtly larger wheels. This results in a difference of 6 km/h on 90 km/h. So 100 km/h is in real on 94 km/h. This means that the time should be around 13-14 seconds. Maybe we will make another video in daylight later. Also my brother and i weigh 150 kilos in total. If i drive on my own the time should also be better.
 
The speed difference between the original 175/60 tires and the new one's 195/50 is 6,63%
So when we are driving 100 km/h on the counter we drive at a real speed of 106,63 km/h.
So when we want to know how fast we must go on the counter for the real 100 km/h it is.

100/106.63 = 0,9378 x 100 = 93,78 km/h
 

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