Won't start. Anything else I can do before I scrap it?

V

v1nny

Hi all, I've got a 2001 X-reg K11 1.0 S 5 door manual with 38000 miles on it, which was bought brand new by my mum, but I think it's a goner now.... I started driving it 10 years ago and it became mine 3 years ago. I'm afraid a service has never been done as these are things we did not think were important, but now I know better. No issues other than wear and tear such as battery, tyre, brake pad and CV joint/boot replacements. Pretty much used for short local trips to the shops and across London. No rust and would have happily driven it for another few more years.

Unfortunately due to ULEZ, I was planning to scrap it next year while I look for a replacement used car. Then when I get that car, I would donate my Micra back to my parents to drive for a few months before they can get their next car. They also have a V-reg K11 with almost 100,000 miles, and they would rather drive mine than that! Bought an OBD2 reader as I thought it would be useful for car viewings and I was also curious what codes my Micra would throw up. Only got the one code; P0100 for the MAF sensor. Other than that, it started up and drove fine, including over lockdown when I would continue to drive it once or twice a week. I lost the spare key in a burglary though :(

However, since 3 weekends ago, I've been unable to start up the engine. Headlights work. When I turn the key into accessory mode, the fans and radio do work. In addition to the braking light, the battery, engine oil and engine malfunction light stay on. I also noticed that the immobilser light (above the radio) comes on and stays solid. When I try to crank the engine (unsuccessfully), the battery and engine oil goes off, but the engine malfunction light stays on.

I've checked and tried the following after reading here and around the internet without success:
  • There's around half tank of fuel
  • Battery is from Halfords and is less than 2 years old
  • I don't smell any fuel around the engine bay
  • I don't see any signs of leaks under the car
  • Multimeter gives 12.34V on the battery
  • Jumped the battery with an 800A portable jump pack
  • Jumped the battery with my Yaris after connecting the leads for 5 mins
  • Cranked up to 15 seconds max each time as I wasn't sure if any longer would cause more damage
  • Tried it with the fuel pump fuse temporarily removed
  • Tried with the clutch pedal pressed down
  • Tried with the accelerator pedal pressed down
  • Sprayed WD40 for 2 seconds down the throttle body
I've run out of things to try, and I think the only thing left is an immobilser fault. Normally (if I remember correctly) the light slowly flashes when the car is parked, but when I start up the car, it goes away. However, it seems to be doing the opposite at the moment, where it doesn't light up during parking, but comes on and stays solid when I put it into accessory mode.

I'm unsure whether it is worth spending any more money on this. I was going to scrap it next year anyways so I thought I may as well bring my plans forward, and ended up buying my Yaris last week as I need a car. I've looked at quotes online and I'm offered around £100-120 to have it collected and scrapped. Although the car is worth much more to me when it is working and I do absolutely adore it, right now it is worthless to me. I imagine it would cost me £50 to tow it to my mechanic, maybe an hour for him to diagnose it, then maybe £100 for an ECU, ignition and transponder set (?), and then another hour at least for him to install.

Does anyone have any other ideas on what else I could try? Or should I accept that I've had a wonderful 10+ years with my first and only car, and cut my losses?

Thanks for reading :)
 
Last edited:
The daughter in law had the same issue on Tuesday, although it is a zafira it might be similar,, the AA came out as it would crank but not start, after going on the computer the immobiliser circuit was live.. the battery in the chuffin key had died and the car started on the first try with the spare good battery key!
Fk she was embarrassed! turns out the car starts a certain amount of times without the key sending the code before the immobiliser kicks in.
 
bls said:
The daughter in law had the same issue on Tuesday, although it is a zafira it might be similar,, the AA came out as it would crank but not start, after going on the computer the immobiliser circuit was live.. the battery in the chuffin key had died and the car started on the first try with the spare good battery key!
Fk she was embarrassed! turns out the car starts a certain amount of times without the key sending the code before the immobiliser kicks in.
Click to expand...

Frantically goes online and orders two new batteries ...
 
k11key.jpg

Thanks for the responses both. I have this key, without remote unlocking. I couldn't see anywhere to pry it open with a flat headed screwdriver. Does it have a battery inside?
 
Firstly, try starting it with its alternative spare chipped key.

Additionally test sprinkle a few drops of fuel on the air filter to see if it fires with a little direct fuelling?
 
This happened to me last year just when I was about to visit my sister in Edinburgh, definetly sounds like an immobiliser fault. It's not that hard to fix with a basic tool kit and a replacement kit from ebay or one of the many Micra pages on facebook. The only one I can find for a 2001 is this at £85, but It is a straight swap (Although the airbag module isn't needed). You'll need to take the plastic around the ignition barrel off as well as the lower surrounds below the ashtray; the ECU is right at the back.

www.ebay.co.uk

K11 NISSAN MICRA 1.0 16vPetrol ECU SET IGNITION BARREL KEY TRANSPONDER 1998-2003 | eBay

<p>K11 NISSAN MICRA 1.0 16vPetrol </p><br><p>ECU SET </p><br><p>IGNITION BARREL </p><br><p>KEY </p><br><p>TRANSPONDER 1998-2003. </p><br><p>Condition is Used.</p>
www.ebay.co.uk
 
Hi all, thanks for your responses so far. I'm reluctant to spend say more than £100 to fix this, especially since I was planning to get rid of it before ULEZ hits me next October, so any other free or low-cost fixes would be much appreciated.

There was one other suggestion which I'll try this afternoon; turn the ignition on and off repeatedly and should I get lucky where the immobliser light does go off, then try to start up the car.
 
v1nny said:
Hi all, thanks for your responses so far. I'm reluctant to spend say more than £100 to fix this, especially since I was planning to get rid of it before ULEZ hits me next October, so any other free or low-cost fixes would be much appreciated.

There was one other suggestion which I'll try this afternoon; turn the ignition on and off repeatedly and should I get lucky where the immobliser light does go off, then try to start up the car.
Click to expand...
It's barely £40 for a full ecu /lockset,
Either swap the transponder and ECU and swap the chips in the key or swpa the lot,
Car be good,

If it's.decent condition rust ect itll be far from scrap,


Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Unfortunately I lost the other key in a robbery :cry:

I tried turning the key in the ignition on and off for 5 seconds earlier for a good 10+ minutes. Unfortunately, the immboliser light still comes up solid red after 5 seconds in the 'ON' position.

I read on another thread somewhere that a bad battery can affect the immobilser, and my parents also happen to have a K11 which I think still works. I could drive that one over, and try swap its battery with mine. Would that be worth a shot?

I'm trying to avoid spending much money fixing this issue especially as I'm planning to get rid of it next October anyways because of ULEZ.
 
You can get someone to unlock the NATS system, a good locksmith can sort out a second transponder key.
your car isn’t worthless, but with everything running it will be won lot more. The chassis from my donor car went for nearly as much as I paid for the whole car. I have a 1.3 setup at my workshop, just haven’t got round to selling it yet.
 
If you have 2 keys, then you could override it. NATS works on a rolling code system, inserting 2 keys in and turning on in under10 seconds realigns it all.
this is a simplified explanation but this is why NATS works but is a pain when it goes wrong. An auto locksmith should be able to unlock it and get you a second key sorted.
your car is probably worth scrap value as it stands, £300-750+ depending on condition and MOT running.
your choice.
Fusion motorsport will do a NATS free ecu, mine was £180 last year. I was trying to keep NATS on my Trike for security and it cost me a lot of money only for it not to work after the mechanic cut into the loom more than he should of. Ended up getting the NATS free unit, wish I had got that in the first place.
 
Just wanted to give you guys an update. Got it collected to be scrapped today. I should be getting £126 for it, which ain't too bad.

Thanks for all your help, and I guess farewell for now? Unless my dad's V reg Micra also packs up and I'm back for help again :D
 

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