Hi everyone just put a new clutch in last week and it's working fine. When I had a look underneath I could see a small oil leak on the transmission end behind the tin plate that sits between engine and gearbox. Cleaned everything up and it's definitely leaking from the sump can see it in the corner. When I did the sump I used rtv sealant and left it to set overnight. I cleaned those two gaskets that sits either end of the sump. I'm now thinking I should have used two new ones. When I did the sump I put a bead of sealant on the sump all the way round I managed to get the two gaskets in place before I pushed to sump into place. Found dropping the exhaust from the head helped a lot. Any tips for getting a leak free sump as when I did it last time the gearbox was off this time will be a bit harder I think?
Sump leaking again
- Thread starter marco2002
- Start date
Less is more when it comes to sealant.. I find most of the time leaks are caused when people use way too much... You can sometimes get away with reuse MLS gaskets but anything else is usually not reusable..
I will bear that in mind for my 2nd attempt at doing it. I've got some new gaskets and bought some dirsk sealant which might work better than black etc. Just waiting for decent weather now been raining on off for 3 days. It's only a slight leak but it's annoying after doing all that work. I will let you how I get on.
If it is the sump joint face that’s leaking, when you get it apart, double check that the sump jointing faces are symmetrically even across all surfaces with a true straight edge or flat bed.
The sump is a cold press formed thin sheet metal fabrication that may be deformed by over tightening its gasket/sealant retaining bolts above specified torque setting limits?
Good luck
The sump is a cold press formed thin sheet metal fabrication that may be deformed by over tightening its gasket/sealant retaining bolts above specified torque setting limits?
Good luck
When I got under the car last weekend it looks like it's dripping from the sump right in the corner just on the curved bit on the corner. The straight runs have held out ok. The sump itself isn't in bad nick just a bit of surface rust so I will sand it back and give it a coat of paint too. I will check it with a steel rule and see if it's deformed at all. The new sealant I've got is called Dirko.Last time i used black rtv and I let it set overnight. I used a small torque wrench to do the bolts 7Nm I definitely didn't overtighten them. There seems to be a few different opinions on whether the half moons should be fitted dry or a bead of sealant on the sump is needed. I had a look at the k11 manual on here and it's saying dry fit with a blob of sealant on each side to hold them in place before offering the sump up and bolting up finger tight. Thanks for all the your help so far. Itching to get outside but it's non stop rain here today lol.
The sump is only 6-8nm so it's very easy to over tighten... wouldn't use more than a 4mm bead of sealant at the very most - what plmval said is true of using a cork gasket or similar that can be pierced when crushed too much by uneven metal but when using sealant it should make a good seal assuming you don't tighten the beans out of it and that's even if it isn't perfectly true and straight... like most sumps that are injudiciously removed...
It's also worth noting that unless the bolt threads of the bolt and the hole are like new in cleanliness that the torque won't be true as the spec is designed for brand new equipment... it's with I just go 'reasonably tight' with a short handled 1/4 drive ratchet and that's never failed me yet
It's also worth noting that unless the bolt threads of the bolt and the hole are like new in cleanliness that the torque won't be true as the spec is designed for brand new equipment... it's with I just go 'reasonably tight' with a short handled 1/4 drive ratchet and that's never failed me yet
Finally got round to doing the sump this weekend. I think I used too much rtv last time. I've been very careful this time used a 4mm bead. I bought some new gaskets too the half moons.The dirko sealant is a bit more expensive but it hasnt leaked so far. Gave the sump a good clean up and two coats of paint outside while I was there. I probably have enough dirko left to do a few more sumps! Ran the micra up to temperature and had a good look underneath so far so good. The centre beam came out very easily compared to some of the other Micra's I've had. One micra I had a few years ago the bolts had rotted out on the front cross member sold it on to someone I know for banger racing. Lol. Right at the end of putting the centre beam back today the bolt for the rear mount didn't line up so just used the trolley jack under the gearbox.Hopefully that's it. Lucky I've got the day off tomorrow took me most of the afternoon to do it. Bit difficult when you're a single parent takes twice as long to do anything and sometimes longer. Lol.
Looks like I spoke too soon it's leaking again! Same place on the transmission end hard to see exactly I put my hand on the tin plate in the gap and it's dripping onto it not as much as before though.
I don't usually get annoyed with things but this is starting to piss me off a bit. I have a plan though I've just bought an endoscope off eBay as soon as it turns up I can have a proper look underneath. Thinking about it there could only be 3 places it could leak(1) the rear oil seal (2) the gallery plug or (3) the sump. No 1 was replaced during the clutch rebuild and no 2 looked fine definately no oil leaking. Just to make sure though I think it might be worth taking the starter motor out and putting that camera in the gearbox just to completely rule no 1and 2 out. I will keep you posted as soon as the camera turns up I will post a few photos.
I don't usually get annoyed with things but this is starting to piss me off a bit. I have a plan though I've just bought an endoscope off eBay as soon as it turns up I can have a proper look underneath. Thinking about it there could only be 3 places it could leak(1) the rear oil seal (2) the gallery plug or (3) the sump. No 1 was replaced during the clutch rebuild and no 2 looked fine definately no oil leaking. Just to make sure though I think it might be worth taking the starter motor out and putting that camera in the gearbox just to completely rule no 1and 2 out. I will keep you posted as soon as the camera turns up I will post a few photos.
Hi everyone I've had another look underneath the Micra last night first chance I've had with the endoscope thats just arrived in the post after a week.The leak is definitely coming from the transmission end on the sump side where the half moon is and oil trickles slowly down the tin plate on the back of the gearbox. I had a good look last night and the dirko sealant has sealed it dry on both straight runs and the half moon at the crank pulley end is good too. I also took the starter out and managed to get the endoscope into the gearbox couldn't see any oil at the bottom of the gearbox underneath the clutch/flywheel so the main seal is good. it was getting a bit darkat that point. Hypothetical theory The only other thing I could think of is the the oil gallery plug but there wasn't enough room to slide the endoscope behind the flywheel to get a look at it the lens is too wide. If I remember rightly the tin plate has a round cutout in it slightly bigger than the plug so if it was leaking oil it would drip down the back of that tin plate? So I think it looks like the gearbox may be coming off again over half term to have a proper look. I was even thinking thinking about putting some UV dye in the oil might help a bit. The clutch is absolutely fine no slipping at all and it's just coming up to the 500miles this week. One question though If the copper washer on the oil gallery plug needs replacing is it a good idea to use a bit of loctite on the threads or a new washer sufficient when you do it u again?
Thanks for the advice so far.....
Thanks for the advice so far.....
