strange issue with heating

ivawart

ivawart

Just noticed that the heating seems to stay on, even if the dial is set to the off position. It's not blasting, but once the engine has warmed up I can feel a light warmth from the vents. I've tried it on different settings, and it does the same on all vents. Even when the engine's cold, the vents are giving off air, be it only a small amount. Its more annoying than anything else for now, but I can see it becoming a problem with excessive petrol consumption and that needs to be remedied.

Anyone got any ideas as to what the problem might be? I'm hoping it'll be something easily fixed, can't afford any major repairs :(

in case it matters, its a 2001 facelift k11
 
is this air blowing through vents whilst driving or stationary?
noticed on fresh air setting it will blow air through, and on rec it wont, both on 0 fan setting
 
ivawart said:
Is this something that i can do myself or should i go to a garage? I should probably admit that most of what u wrote went right over my head :D
Click to expand...

when u turn the heater dial, it moves a cable similar to a brake cable. the cable then turns the diverter mechanism which controls how much air flows through either the heater matrix (hot) or straight to the vents (cold). a valve in the heater matrix controlling the flow of hot coolant is connected to the mechanism via a rod.

so turning the dial towards hot pulls the cable, which diverts air through the matrix core and opens the coolant valve.

you should be able to turn the dial from fully cold to fully hot without it stopping prematurely. if it stops short it needs adjusting.

the cable is adjusted by where the position of the outer cable is locked on the control panel with an e-clip.
i think u can access the back of the control unit by removing the central console cover, remove the radio and u'll be able to peer down at the control cables.

i adjust the cable tension by removing the e-clip that secures the outer cable to the unit, turn and hold the dial at full hot, pull the outer cable outwards so when the dial is at full hot the mechanism is at full hot, then secure its position with the e-clip
 
R-REG-SR said:
is this air blowing through vents whilst driving or stationary?
noticed on fresh air setting it will blow air through, and on rec it wont, both on 0 fan setting
Click to expand...

thats cos during recirc, the recirc vane at the blower shuts out the external high pressure during motion and with no pressure difference in the system and no fan assist theres no airflow.
 
pollyp said:
when u turn the heater dial, it moves a cable similar to a brake cable. the cable then turns the diverter mechanism which controls how much air flows through either the heater matrix (hot) or straight to the vents (cold). a valve in the heater matrix controlling the flow of hot coolant is connected to the mechanism via a rod.

so turning the dial towards hot pulls the cable, which diverts air through the matrix core and opens the coolant valve.

you should be able to turn the dial from fully cold to fully hot without it stopping prematurely. if it stops short it needs adjusting.

the cable is adjusted by where the position of the outer cable is locked on the control panel with an e-clip.
i think u can access the back of the control unit by removing the central console cover, remove the radio and u'll be able to peer down at the control cables.

i adjust the cable tension by removing the e-clip that secures the outer cable to the unit, turn and hold the dial at full hot, pull the outer cable outwards so when the dial is at full hot the mechanism is at full hot, then secure its position with the e-clip
Click to expand...

firstly, thanks for the highly informative reply (Y)

secondly, just to be clear what you're saying is that if i adjust the cable's tension the problem of the always on heating will stop?
 
ivawart said:
firstly, thanks for the highly informative reply (Y)

secondly, just to be clear what you're saying is that if i adjust the cable's tension the problem of the always on heating will stop?
Click to expand...

should do cos tis only the one flap that controls hot/cold and urs sounds like the outer cable is too far out so the diverter is still slightly towards hot when the dials fully cold
 
easy fix is to turn the fans off and set it to recirculating air. with it set to fresh air, theres always cold air from outside coming in and wafting over the rad.
 
tomwest said:
easy fix is to turn the fans off and set it to recirculating air. with it set to fresh air, theres always cold air from outside coming in and wafting over the rad.
Click to expand...

air still comes through the vents regardless if set to fresh or recirculating, so I guess i'll have to try pollyp's suggestion of adjusting the cable :)
 
go for it. ive just been through the whole removing and replacing heater system. ive bodged my own from cardboard and duct tape. it works fantastically except when it heats up its melting the glue on the tape. my lungs are coated........ have since ordered a slimline fan to sit on the heater matrix.
 
tomwest said:
go for it. ive just been through the whole removing and replacing heater system. ive bodged my own from cardboard and duct tape. it works fantastically except when it heats up its melting the glue on the tape. my lungs are coated........ have since ordered a slimline fan to sit on the heater matrix.
Click to expand...

keep us posted on that development
 
Hi all,

Bought an old N reg Micra 1.0 as a run around and I'm wanting to give it alittle TLC. With regards to the heater it only appear to have 2 settings, off and full blast. Any ideas as to why the other settings wont't work?
 

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