Steering wheel lock rubbing

[john279]

I think my steering wheel lock may be rubbing on the steering movement.

Just before driving I was having trouble releasing lock with key.

The steering feels heavy, not as smooth as should be.
I can hear something rubbing when turning steering wheel when stationary.

Is it easy to disable steering wheel lock & get access to it ??
.

 

[MLC2]

If there's a tight spot every half turn of the wheel where it feels like its catching or rubbing on something then it is probably the steering lock catching on the slots in the steering column.

The steering lock is easy to get at but is held on with shear bolts. These will need to be drilled or ground out.

If your VERY lucky you may be able to get some penetrating oil in and free it off - but it's doubtful.

 

[john279]

If there's a tight spot every half turn of the wheel where it feels like its catching or rubbing on something then it is probably the steering lock catching on the slots in the steering column.

The steering lock is easy to get at but is held on with shear bolts. These will need to be drilled or ground out.

If your VERY lucky you may be able to get some penetrating oil in and free it off - but it's doubtful.

When you take apart & get access, can you see how it works

I wonder if it's the lock or key mechanism & how it releases it.

 

[MLC2]

From memory its a sealed unit and I don't think you will be able to do anything with it
If you don't want to replace it (and have a different key for the ignition) the best you could do would be to file or grind off the locking pin.

 

[john279]

If there's a tight spot every half turn of the wheel where it feels like its catching or rubbing on something then it is probably the steering lock catching on the slots in the steering column.

The steering lock is easy to get at but is held on with shear bolts. These will need to be drilled or ground out.

If your VERY lucky you may be able to get some penetrating oil in and free it off - but it's doubtful.

I've got access to the lock by taking off the column shrouds (didn't have to take off steering wheel).

See photos below of all sides.

Tried spraying some spray oil into lock and gaps on all sides, but no success, still rubbing.

The column & lock are a very tight fit, so the gaps into lock are almost non existant for oil to get inside to right place.

Don't fancy taking lock off, only to find I can't solve problem & I've got a bigger problem afterwards.
Not sure where you'd get shear type screws.


The bulk off the lock is underneath the column, where I assume the spindle (see pic3) locks the column & moves the electrical contacts.

In pic4 (underneath of lock) you can see a cylindrical bit, off main lock body, that is directly under column & probably lock pin.

There must be a spring in there somewhere, as when you pull out key, you hear something spring back. Possibly it's a void with a spring mechanism.


Wondering if I carefully drill small hole into this, centre of cylindrical bit in pic4 (blue marks spot), might give access, directly under locking pin, spring mechanism & column to lubricate.

What do people think ??


pic1 -Right side

pic2 -Top side

pic3 -Left side (electrical contact block removed)

pic4 -Bottom side

 

[MLC2]

I think I still have the remains of a broken lock in a car outside. I will go and have a look at it when I get a moment and see if it looks like you can get it apart to do anything.

I think your best option though is to get a replacement lock from a scrappy or ebay.
The shear bolts (top left, bottom right in your photo) will drill out quite easily and the whole lock assembly will come off. You can re-fit the lock with any old bolts you can find that fit. The shear bolts are only a security thing to make it harder for thieves to get the ignition lock off.

As a temporary thing you could just take the lock off and use a screwdriver or the end of the key to turn the ignition switch to start and run the car. Not very good for security though

 

[john279]

I think I still have the remains of a broken lock in a car outside. I will go and have a look at it when I get a moment and see if it looks like you can get it apart to do anything.

As a temporary thing you could just take the lock off and use a screwdriver or the end of the key to turn the ignition switch to start and run the car. Not very good for security though

Have a look at how the mechanism works, whether drilliing hole in bottom, spraying oil in, will work or may help ??

And, where is best place to drill hole to get best access to mechanism ??

It could be really simple to solve, bit of oil in right place.

Thanks.

 

[frank]

those shearbolts come out pretty easy with a centerpunch john, and just replace them with capscrews

 

[MLC2]

Good one frank if there not too tight you can tap them round with a centre punch.

Had a look at the old lock I've got and to be honest I don't think you'll have any luck trying to get it apart and together again. As I said before if your very lucky it might free up with a bit of penetrating oil into the locking pin once you have got it out, but doubtful.
Mike.

 

[john279]

those shearbolts come out pretty easy with a centerpunch john, and just replace them with capscrews

Good one frank if there not too tight you can tap them round with a centre punch.

I'll investigate.

The lock bolts are just half under the instrument panel, pointing up & away at an angle, so I thought I'd have to remove the instrument panel to get them out.

If they're not too tight and I use small screwdriver, wrench with screw bit & centrepunch, maybe I can remove bolts, without removing instrument panel.
.

 

[john279]

Had a look at the old lock I've got and to be honest I don't think you'll have any luck trying to get it apart and together again. As I said before if your very lucky it might free up with a bit of penetrating oil into the locking pin once you have got it out, but doubtful.
Mike.

How does the lock pin work, related to the internals, compared to my external photos ??
.

 

[frank]

if you take the top 2 column bolts out, it,ll all drop down a few inches iirc john

 

[john279]

those shearbolts come out pretty easy with a centerpunch john, and just replace them with capscrews

if you take the top 2 column bolts out, it,ll all drop down a few inches iirc john

Spot on Frank, as usual.

Unfortunately events have moved on with my car since I last posted.
Back in December the steering wheel lock rubbing stopped of its own accord.

Unfortunately in January I hadn't put the shrouds back on (what with the freezing weather & me slipping on ice & my arm being in a caste), so wiring & mechanism was visible.

Someone decided to steal the car, the car was recovered next day.

The thief broke the lock mount & the light stalk switch, so I'll have to replace those parts.

Went to scrap yard today to see if they have a Micra to get parts off, mine is an E reg.
They had F/J/K reg ones which have a slightly different lock (has a side push button) & lock mount (2 bolts only) & the stalk switch looks slightly different so not sure if that will fit.

Anyway decided to check how things dismantle, so I know how to do on my car.

As you say, removing 2 column bolts allows the steering column to drop down few inches.

And the 2 shear bolts on the steering lock came out very very easy with a little tap of a centre punch, after that I could turn with hand just pushing with the punch.

My steering lock has 4 bolts. I might be able to reuse the shear bolts if they are easy to get out & in, or just cut a groove in the top or just use normal bolts.

Anyway now I know how to do it, so shouldn't be problem once I get right parts.

 

[Shaun]

My k10 makes a weird squeaky sound when wiggling the steering wheel, would this be the same thing?

 

[MLC2]

My k10 makes a weird squeaky sound when wiggling the steering wheel, would this be the same thing?

If the noise is coming from around the cowl then it might be misaligned and rubbing against the wheel slightly.
More likely to be worn steering rack bushes. The usual trick is to wrap insulating tape round them to tighten them up a bit.

John279 glad you are getting it sorted

 

[Desty]

If the noise is coming from around the cowl then it might be misaligned and rubbing against the wheel slightly.
More likely to be worn steering rack bushes. The usual trick is to wrap insulating tape round them to tighten them up a bit.

Hopefully that cowl is what's making the noise in my K11 - I had a quick look at it earlier and could see the steering wheel was flush with the cowl on the right side, while the left side had about a 1mm gap. Sure enough, pulling the wheel as I turned it made it silent, so hopefully I can nudge the cowl back a bit... without setting off the airbag in my face :doh:

Got an NCT (Irish version of the MOT) coming up in a week, so gotta iron out as many little niggles as possible (even though it will probably fail on the bouncy castle shocks). :laugh:

 

[john279]

My k10 makes a weird squeaky sound when wiggling the steering wheel, would this be the same thing?

With my steering wheel rubbing, you can feel the steering wheel is rough/stiff to turn & a rough graunchy sound as you turn, not a squeaky sound.

Your problem sounds different, maybe something just needs lubrication.

Ps: does everyone see the big gaps above quoted posts ??

 

[john279]

Scrapyard -E reg or earlier

Someone decided to steal the car, the car was recovered next day.

The thief broke the lock mount & the light stalk switch, so I'll have to replace those parts.

Went to scrap yard today to see if they have a Micra to get parts off, mine is an E reg.
They had F/J/K reg ones which have a slightly different lock (has a side push button) & lock mount (2 bolts only) & the stalk switch looks slightly different so not sure if that will fit.

Does anyone know a scrapyard with an E reg micra or earlier in South East, I am in Brighton ??

Does anyone have a spare 4 bolt lock mount (top half) or know where I can get one ??

I am looking for the lock mount (top half) with 4 bolt holes.
It's that bit shown in picture.

My one was broken when my car was stolen.

I have been to the scrapyard (G.W.Bridges near Crawley) a number of times over recent months.
A month ago, they had 10 micras in the yard, none was E reg or earlier.

They have only had F reg or later cars which use a 2 bolt lock mount.
The lock mounts seem to have changed at F reg to 2 bolt.

I am looking for an E reg or earlier car which has the 4 bolt lock mount shown in picture.

 

[john279]

Does anyone know a scrapyard with an E reg micra or earlier in South East, I am in Brighton ??

See previous post.

 

[frank]

cant you just change the whole column john ?

 

[john279]

cant you just change the whole column john ?

Why do that ??

I'm not looking at steering lock rubbing problem, which seemed to disappear of its own accord just before Christmas, then my car was stolen & steering lock was broken.

So I am now trying to find replacement 4 bolt lock mount (top half).

I want to use the same steering wheel lock bottom, so I can use same key.

 

[frank]

Why do that ??

I'm not looking at steering lock rubbing problem, which seemed to disappear of its own accord just before Christmas, then my car was stolen & steering lock was broken.

So I am now trying to find replacement 4 bolt lock mount (top half).

I want to use the same steering wheel lock bottom, so I can use same key.

suit yourself fwn

 

[john279]

suit yourself fwn

Was your suggestion about changing steering column to do with the steering lock rubbing ??

Just checking we're talking about same thing, things can get mixed up.