its a possibility that i will be jigging my mount and copying it for pork, could make a couple if i figure out a decent way of doing it. i will take measurements and head down the scrappy too see what i can find and also look for a loom
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its a possibility that i will be jigging my mount and copying it for pork, could make a couple if i figure out a decent way of doing it. i will take measurements and head down the scrappy too see what i can find and also look for a loom
got you a rear gearbox/engine mount today. havent got a loom or ecu just yet but he says he does have a few early k11 up at his other site. iam not allowed on his other site but he may bring them down for breaking at some point soon. they are scrappage scheme cars i think :s
i will give the other breakers a buzz.
and regarding engine mount that needs making for driverside. its probably best if i use a standard k10 ma engine mount and mod that same as mine. asll the more modern cars have ally mounts which i cant weld :s
i will give the other breakers a buzz.
and regarding engine mount that needs making for driverside. its probably best if i use a standard k10 ma engine mount and mod that same as mine. asll the more modern cars have ally mounts which i cant weld :s
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alright mate nice one cheers for that (Y) how much is the mount mate? or should i hang on to see if the other bits can be got? how is the ma mount modded on yours? i was looking at my ma mount the other day actually to see if i could do out with it but dint have enough time to figure anything out.
thanks, steve
thanks, steve
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right been having a massive think cause its coming up winter i might just chuck the carbs on to get it on the road before the snow comes. cause my mams van is useless in the snow and i thought the micra was quite good last year so i will probably need it to get her to the field 7 miles away.
so couple of quick questions what hose can i use for the carbs? i know it needs to be 40mm but finding it hard to come across any that big.
will the carb run ok in winter on the carbs without a choke? as the one on the carbs is jammed right up and wont free off.
so couple of quick questions what hose can i use for the carbs? i know it needs to be 40mm but finding it hard to come across any that big.
will the carb run ok in winter on the carbs without a choke? as the one on the carbs is jammed right up and wont free off.
gtsnissanb
Official MSC Trader
Last time I was stuck for some heater hose on my s13 I got some from halfrauds for less than a tenner
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ah right nice one well the scrappy's down here are full of mondeos lmao so i will have a butchers this afternoon. still 100% going injection the carbs is just a temp thing till next april/may. if you can still get the loom and ecu i will still have it mate and ill just store it until its time to fit it(Y) plus it will give me a bit of time to get the other bits sorted.
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well went down the scrappys the other day for some piping but i couldn't find any. lots of mondeo's but no td's just petrol ones so i had a route about and came across a 1994 k11 1.0:grinning: wiring loom intact and ecu and a mount and clutch stay and dizzy. i need to go back down and get the wiring as i dint have loads of time so i will get it tomorrow.
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nice one cheers kev (Y) i was gonna ask you if its just the engine bay to cockpit loom i need. do i need the cockpit loom aswell? i was getting confused where the ecu loom splits under the dash into two plugs the goes to the fuse box and ignition ect do i need this part of loom as well? or could i just solder the power supply and ignition wires in.
frank
Club Member
the front g/box mount steve ?
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no the rear box mount frank i thinks its called a stabilizer bar anyhows
it runs along the gear linkage selector bar and its ment to bolt to the mount somewhere to keep it solid. i cant see anywhere to bolt it up to unless i shorten it?
frank
Club Member
no the rear box mount frank i thinks its called a stabilizer bar anyhows
ahh gotcha steve
the k11 rear mount sits on the crossmember/cradle thingy, but the k10 one just bolts to the baulkhead eh
frank
Club Member
personally i would drift the rollpin out of the gearchange rod on the g/box, and drill a fresh hole at 90 deg steve (as long as that outer collar is,nt too hard to drill
) (under the rubber shroud)
frank
Club Member
is there no rollpin under the little rubber on the g/box steve ?
frank
Club Member
Maybe I did see it but couldn't drift it out frank.
For the loom you just need the engine part but you could chop the plugs off of the car loom. Then you could remove the unwanted wires from the plugs leaving the 4 or 5 wires that you need.
There is some pics in my thread of the loom that I got from the scrappy
For the loom you just need the engine part but you could chop the plugs off of the car loom. Then you could remove the unwanted wires from the plugs leaving the 4 or 5 wires that you need.
There is some pics in my thread of the loom that I got from the scrappy
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:doh: why dint i think of that:laugh: hungover like hell lol. if does have a roll pin ill do that. if it doesn't have one is there another way to take the fitting off without ripping the box apart? had a k11 box in pieces before and was a nightmare to put back together.
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defo no roll pin in my box it came from an R-reg so not sure if that makes any difference. ive been looking at the drivers mount again as i want to re-do it would it be ok to weld the old ma mount to the timing chain cover (the black plate thing)?
some more pics to follow at midnight.
some more pics to follow at midnight.
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just looked at my dizzy i got from the breakers and it has 2 bolts snapped that hold the dizzy cap on i managed to get one out with the pliers but i think the other one will need drilling. i am going to do the dizzy mod today but i only have parcel tape will this be ok or would i have to use electricians tape?
also i am going to paint the cam cover today will black hammerite direct to rust paint be ok or will it just blister under the heat?
also i am going to paint the cam cover today will black hammerite direct to rust paint be ok or will it just blister under the heat?
nah man the cover is too thin and weak, look at the early ages of my blog there is some pics of my mount and its so simple
maybe worth msg superls and see if he still has his jig for making the mount couple of piccys i promised with the engine sitting better (Y) note the mount off on the drivers side at the min as im revising it a bit at the min.
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almost looks just as easy to weld new plates oonto the body of the car to utilise the old cg mount thats already bolted to the engine
paint should be fine and so should the parcel tape (Y)
however my rev limiter still cuts in really early, im wondering whether my car is in limp mode from messing around with the beeR rev limiter :doh:
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could be kev when does yours run out of puff? i managed to melt a old plastic tie wrap over the dizzy hole seems to be ok. the tape was doing my nut in lol it wouldn't stick properly.
also this mount thing i was thinking of that (welding new plates in) but i only have a buzz box lol so it would annihilate the waffer thin metal. i was thinking of asking superls actually i'll send him a pm.
dizzy fitted today. cam cover prepped but couldn't make my mind up wether to paint it or not as it looked like it was going to rain lol. pics at midnight again (Y)
also this mount thing i was thinking of that (welding new plates in) but i only have a buzz box lol so it would annihilate the waffer thin metal. i was thinking of asking superls actually i'll send him a pm.
dizzy fitted today. cam cover prepped but couldn't make my mind up wether to paint it or not as it looked like it was going to rain lol. pics at midnight again (Y)
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well been down today and got the basic wiring done (just need to figure out which is ecu lives and earths now) and cam cover painted so just need to hook up the ecu and get a fuel pump and it should run :grinning: i have put the battery on charge cause im hoping i can get this done tomorrow. i still need to sort a swirl pot but that can wait for now as long as it starts i will be happy then ill sort the rest.
frank
Club Member
was yours from an R reg 1.3 tho ? here,s the haynes pic of a k10 one eh (and my pre 98 1.0 has the same rollpin)
Attachments
all of the ecu LIVES x3 are in this plug. cut them out and connect them to a ignition live source that REMAINS LIVE DURING CRANKING things like the stereo go dead during cranking.
i got all 3 wires together and joined them up with the (iirc) green wire from the ballast resistor. one wire from the ballast resistor is 12v live, iam sure its the green wire. this can be pulled back through the loom and ran on the inside of the bulkhead.
you can even see the colours of the wires lol iam not recomending the choc block but its working fine for me tempory
the cranking wire is within this multiplug! i dont know if its defo needed but i think it tells the ecu that its cranking at 300rpm and to start. otherwise it would think its idling at 300rpm lol
cut it out of the plug and connect it too the starter motor
connect the cranking wire to here, where the black and yellow srtare wire is!
i got all 3 wires together and joined them up with the (iirc) green wire from the ballast resistor. one wire from the ballast resistor is 12v live, iam sure its the green wire. this can be pulled back through the loom and ran on the inside of the bulkhead.
you can even see the colours of the wires lol iam not recomending the choc block but its working fine for me tempory
the cranking wire is within this multiplug! i dont know if its defo needed but i think it tells the ecu that its cranking at 300rpm and to start. otherwise it would think its idling at 300rpm lol
cut it out of the plug and connect it too the starter motor
connect the cranking wire to here, where the black and yellow srtare wire is!
ECU LIVES ARE
pin no.
38
46
47
and at the white multi plug (iirc) you need yellow and black wire, green and white wire and finally white and green wire.
the white and green wire livens up the coil
STARTER WIRE
pin no. 34 at ecu and green and yellow wire from black plug
My fuel pumps are connected to the same green coil wire, i was concerned about the drain on this wire but it appears to be fine and doesnt get hot. tbh the orignal coil was probably more of a drain anyways
pin no.
38
46
47
and at the white multi plug (iirc) you need yellow and black wire, green and white wire and finally white and green wire.
the white and green wire livens up the coil
STARTER WIRE
pin no. 34 at ecu and green and yellow wire from black plug
My fuel pumps are connected to the same green coil wire, i was concerned about the drain on this wire but it appears to be fine and doesnt get hot. tbh the orignal coil was probably more of a drain anyways
