SR Failed MOT - Advice Needed

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Shaun

Shaun

***StaGGeRed***
Exhaust emissions Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits [7.3.D.2b]

Service brake efficiency below requirements
[3.7.A.9]

Brakes Failures: RBT service Brake efficiency: 37%

Little bit confuffled with the second one.
Any ideas as to what brake they are actually talking about?
as the guy doing the MOT didn't really explain it that well apart from it could be anything he said lol useless bunch of dinks!

Also don't suppose anyone knows which wire does what for the rear clusters as when i rewired mine today for the mot the fog light comes on with the Reverse lamp lol

Any help is greatly appreciated!!
 
frank said:
scored discs maybe shaun ?
Click to expand...
Well when Mckenziecz/George owned the car we changed the front discs and pads so they are probably not that old...
possibly could do with some new pads and a bleed to be fair though... even with discs all round doesn't seem to stop like the Super S did....

any advice on the damn emissions Frank/Anyone?
My results for Fails were:

Fast idle
Lambda=1.038 Fail min 0.970 max 1.030

Second fast idle
Lambda=1.053 Fail min 0.970 max 1.030

Passed the natural idle test though lol
 
Shaun said:
Well when Mckenziecz/George owned the car we changed the front discs and pads so they are probably not that old...
possibly could do with some new pads and a bleed to be fair though... even with discs all round doesn't seem to stop like the Super S did....

any advice on the damn emissions Frank/Anyone?
My results for Fails were:

Fast idle
Lambda=1.038 Fail min 0.970 max 1.030

Second fast idle
Lambda=1.053 Fail min 0.970 max 1.030

Passed the natural idle test though lol
Click to expand...

Cats dead maybe
 
Shaun said:
But it's not even far off really is it... i really don't want to fork out for a Cat. and this one has both cats!!!
god forbid if it only had one!
Click to expand...

Maybe it's the fact it has two cats ie it only has one that works right hence the slightly over reading?
The single cat model would be allowed more room for emissions as it wouldn't need to produce such low emissions at the time it was built, nissans quick fix to lower emissions stick another cat on it! Won't be surprised if the whole exhaust system was just a big cat on a k13 lol
 
Wouldn't surprise me either... well i have upto 10 working days to get this fixed... possibly just the lambda is knackered?
but at £74 a pop at eurocarparts etc... lol i do not think so.
on a good note though, coilovers and strut braces make a huge difference to the micra! (Y)
 
Anyways enough of the Jibba jabber lol
Need to know:
Wire colour codes and what where for rear clusters
magical exhaust emmisions fix... Additive/redex?
service brake efficiency problem? pads and a bleed? cylinder again? :suspect:
Want this on the road for the 17th meet down in devils dyke!
 
Shaun said:
Wouldn't surprise me either... well i have upto 10 working days to get this fixed... possibly just the lambda is knackered?
but at £74 a pop at eurocarparts etc... lol i do not think so.
on a good note though, coilovers and strut braces make a huge difference to the micra! (Y)
Click to expand...

Lambda is a possibility but if your going genuine or paying alot I'd check yours first you can check with a multi meter but I'd prefer an oscilloscope for more accuracy! I found the cheap universal ones worked better than the stock Nissan one I had in my skyline and just to get it through an mot might be worth thinking about
 
hmmmm... will check it tomorrow and see what happens... also when doing the emissions test what rpm are they suppose to sit it at as i'm sure he was hitting 6000rpm...?
 
Shaun said:
hmmmm... will check it tomorrow and see what happens... also when doing the emissions test what rpm are they suppose to sit it at as i'm sure he was hitting 6000rpm...?
Click to expand...

3k aint it shaun, and the lambda,s are easy to test with a meter (i,ve posted some vids of mine at cruise)
 
Could you not borrow a cat or two from ya friend's Micra and swap it/them just for the MOT? same with the lambda yok...
 
Have you got an induction kit fitted? I had no end of problems with the lambda reading on my Almera with a K&N, even got a new lambda before swapping with standard airbox and it passed with flying colours!
 
Hmmm.... there is a foam filter just sat on top... perhaps a trip to the scrappies again for me today lol
 
Also with the rear light clusters both sides have 5 wires from the plug but 6 wires from the loom? if that makes any sense...
Where am i going wrong?
everything works fine just when i put it in reverse the rear fog light comes on lol
 
Right i am a silly twonk....
the reason for the lights as i found out today at the scrappy is the prefacelift has two version of rear light loom.
ones 5 wire and one 6 wire.... took the 5 wire yesterday and the fog comes on with reverse lol
so will rewire today and i cannot see any reason why it won't work out.

all thats left is emissions and service brake...

emissions i have put on a stock air filter box with resonator and will try some wynns cleaning spray for the throttle body and fluid for the tank see where that gets me with a little Italian tune up.

service brake turns out to be the rears.... which could mean the damn cylinders again!! instead of passing it onto a garage i will do it myself this time...
Anyone got any hints/tips they can lend a friend?
 
rear calipers tend to have sticky piston from hardened deposits and especially seized handbrake mechanism due to the grease solidifying over the years. i think that applying the handbrake very hard for long periods over the years make it more likely for the calipers to seize up.

take out the caliper. remove piston by unscrewing anti-clockwise, take out the dust seal and carefully remove the piston seal. clean n flush out the piston bore & seal grooves free from dirt/rust.

if the piston surface has corroded like this left one you need new piston. if its just some baked deposit, clean with brake/carb cleaner and maybe for harder deposits rub with 1200 wet/dry sprayed with wd40 till its smooth like the right one

dsc04986dg.jpg


looking at the self adjuster thread inside the bore, swing the handbrake machanism lever fully on & off. it should feel unrestrictive and the thread should move fully in & out without jamming. if it doesn't fully retract then the internal mechanism is gunked up and needs overhaul.

i took mine apart in blog post #94

dsc01883copy.jpg


http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/35251-PollyMobiles-Rebuild/page2

needed to modify my circlip pliers to reach deep inside the caliper bore but is do-able

when reinstalling the piston, slip the dust seal over the end of piston then hook the dust seal into its groove in the caliper before screwing the piston clockwise all the way in.
bleed brakes, pump brake pedal hard to config the self adjuster before setting up & use the handbrake.
 
Don't think i'm quite ready for that Polly! :down:
my car will end up off the road for weeks lol
will have a look around the cylinders this afternoon see if i can spot anything obvious before going ahead and taking everything apart!
 
Well have just been quoted £85 for new cylinders and fitted... considering the cheapest i can find is £25 a cylinder i think £30 labour seems fair...
just wanna make sure it actually is the cylinders first....
Thanks everyone! just need this sorted then those lovely emissions :(
 
rear cylinder is bout £19 exclude p&p from brakes international

http://www.brakesint.co.uk/

to test if its the cylinder: unbolt & lift the caliper off the carrier, put to one side.
test the pads are not stuck on the clips by keepin the disc pressed flush to the hub with one hand to keep it straight, briefly squeeze the pads together onto the disc then spin the disc. should be no resistance at all.
now retract the caliper piston by screwing it clockwise all the way, make sure the 4 slots on the piston face are aligned to the peg on the inner pad. fit caliper onto carrier and refit wheel.
ok before touching the handbrake, fully pump up the brake pedal to push the piston/pads upto the disc then spin the wheel. if its binding, the piston is seized.
if its not binding when you first press the pedal but then you pull & release the handbrake and it binds, the handbrake mechanism and/or cable is seized
 
your parking brake efficiency would be low too if the cylinders were leaking shaun surely ?
maybe the bias/load apportioning valve ?
 
frank said:
your parking brake efficiency would be low too if the cylinders were leaking shaun surely ?
maybe the bias/load apportioning valve ?
Click to expand...
Perhaps... i just don't have sufficient tools and time to sit there taking apart the whole rear, i have it booked in tomorrow morning at nine to see what it is thats going on... rear cylinders don't seem to be leaking with the brief look i had earlier on. i would of checked properly but lying in puddles under a car is not my idea of fun....

Onto the other problem.... Changed the Bosch super 4's for some NGK's today in hope that they may tell me a sign....
BadSpark1.jpg


BadSpark2.jpg


BadSpark3.jpg


If i am correct doesn't sooty black carbon on all the plugs indicate overfueling/running rich?
if so do you think that could of been due to the just bolt on the foam filter to the TB technique that was on there?

now i have a stock airbox/pipes new sparks and giving it a little raggin' with some redex in there i have my fingers crossed...
 
Also to go with the above post... i heard that if i switched to the higher 97 octane fuel for a little while it would help pass emissions?
surely this is all tosh as the car is designed for less?
 
Rear N/S caliper is the culprit... :down:
Including Mot and bits and bobs i have spent £250 in 5 days on the damn thing.... it better give me a hassle free year otherwise i'll film the crushing.... grr
 
Shaun said:
Rear N/S caliper is the culprit... :down:
Including Mot and bits and bobs i have spent £250 in 5 days on the damn thing.... it better give me a hassle free year otherwise i'll film the crushing.... grr
Click to expand...

At least you found out what the problem is, but that does seem a bit expensive to get it through its MOT. I remember when I had to spend £500 on a service. Should have let them keep the car :laugh:. Oh well, it hasn't given me any hassle in the last year and a half, so it's all good (Y).

Don't crush yours though, we can't afford to lose another Micra to the crusher, they seem to be disappearing fast :eek:
 
you'll get mot if fail works done
but if your looking to be just lucky then i wouldnt expect it'll pass
 
the only work that was carried out was the rear caliper...
everything else i did myself, got free retest and it went straight down on emissions...
 
micra_dan said:
Wait, so it has it passed? Or has it not, because of the emissions?
Click to expand...
it HAS passed...
emissions were just over before hand...
however i think the tester was redlining it...
this time round they dropped dramatically... don't know whether it was the stock air box/sparks/redex or just a good 'ol italian tune up that did the trick...
Just need Tax tomorrow get my head unit in and speakers and off we go for some music!
 
Shaun said:
it HAS passed...
emissions were just over before hand...
however i think the tester was redlining it...
this time round they dropped dramatically... don't know whether it was the stock air box/sparks/redex or just a good 'ol italian tune up that did the trick...
Just need Tax tomorrow get my head unit in and speakers and off we go for some music!
Click to expand...

Good man :grinning:. All set for Sunday then? (Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)
 
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