Short circuited injector, flooding after replacement

[Daniel_]

Hey,

Some backstory on the issue;
-1998 1.0 K11 with 1.3camshafts
-Been running E85 for 1year
-Left car to sit 3 weeks
-Battery dead
-2x Injectors shorted by conversion box (due to low voltage starting maybe? got stuck somehow) [Infinite resistance]

I then replaced the broken injectors with 2 used ones. Started running normal petrol since the conversion box failed. Now my real issue begins. When cold the car starts perfectly. When warm it just floods itself, only way to start it is with the pedal to the floor, triggering clear flood mode. Injector resistance checks out evenly within 0.1 Ohms on all injectors.

Question 1. So what could cause flooding? Still faulty injectors? Broken injector driver channel on ECU causing it to inject when it shouldn't? Leaning towards fuel issue, since the normal ignition tuneup did nothing. Should I do the 15k Ohm temp resistor trick as a bandaid solution?

Question 2. If I replace the ECU, do I need to match the key somehow? Guessing I have the NATS2?

 

[Agent_Sm1th]

Is it a faulty ecu temp sensor. The two wire one the head.
To answer the other question, you need the immu off the barrel, the key chip, and the ecu all to match.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Micra Sports Club mobile app

 

[Daniel_]

Update,
I added one 15kOhm resistor in parallel with the 2 wire head coolant temperature sensor. It improved the situation, but it still occasionally floods. Atleast I can continue using the car now! Adding a resistor will only affect the colder start conditions. When the engine heats up, the resistor is effectively bypassed due to the low resistance in the sensor element.

I will continue troubleshooting on my own, something is still not quite right.

Oh, in the same session, I deleted the waxstat, and set the slack in the throttle cable. Cracked the idle screw up a bit to cope better with nonexisting waxstat. It runs really well for a nearly 20year old car!