Roadmap to some performance on a Super S

M

Muniek

Hi All,

Recently I got an old love of mine - a fully packed 1996 pre Nats Micra SS with 139 K km. After getting her fully serviced and replacing brakes and stock suspension I would like to get out of her a few added ponies.

As I have access to many Nissan parts here in Poland for relatively low prices I can mix oem and custom parts to my liking and your advise. I also have access to a workshop where I can play a bit myself or with some help.

Air:
I started with removing the entire airbox. I fabricated a bell intake from a bass reflex speaker tube. V. noticeable upgrade and sound is great but loud. I like it, others - who cares? :)
Maybe a t/b spacer will also be fabricated to increase the volume.

Fuel:
I think I want to get that GA15 t/b and injectors. Is something larger needed? Worth it or not? Maybe just a fuel pressure regulator and polish the shaft in the t/b?

Exhaust:
Frank from this forum will kindly supply me a part needed to mod the oem manifold. Ebb's testing showed little improvement after fitting a full system. My question is then whether at the power level of about 100hp is this really needed? Cisco writes a review on his upgrades and definitely promotes the idea. How about the rest of you guys here? Just asking as I want to keep this on a budget adding the most needed bits at this time.

ECU:
What is possible with the oem 1.3 ECU? Should I get a CG10 ECU? Can I do something with NIssan's Consult scanner or is it just temporary?

Motor:
Will opt for higher compression and then maybe play with timing. I hear that CG10 crankshaft wheel is the same size but ligther. If I have A/C do I need to get one from 1.0 A/C version?

Drive:
Is CG10 gearbox with shorter gearing?? Fits? Maybe skim the flywheel to a bit at the same time if change is done.

Please feel to comment as you please :) Thanks! (Y)

Andrew
 
the downpipe is very restrictive andrew, and i think you can only alter the idle via consult, and the facelift flywheel and/or g/box will fit ok :)
 
Thanks Frank! Good info on the downpipe + g/box!

What about those cheap mods: cg10 ECU + crankshaft wheel? Those are cheap here... I know - kinda "cosmetic" changes but if they will work why not to get them..?
 
i think all the crank pulleys are the same size andrew, i use the lighter CG10 one too :)
and the 1.0 ecu has 6 or 8 deg more total spark advance apperently, which hinders mine because the dyno showed more hp @ a retarded 5 deg btdc, but i run @ 15 deg btdc for daily driving because it pulls better from 2k when set there
 
Frank, you mean size wise all pulleys are the same, but cg10 are lighter, right? Is a pulley for car with A/C different from non A/C?. Yeah, I need to play with ignition soon, as well as fuel it does have a dip in power around 4000-4200rpm, although mostly noticeable in 3rd,4th gear. It is still a blast of fun to drive it all day :grinning:
 
Pulleys are all the same dimensionally, with or without A/C.

If I remember rightly a standard CG13DE pulley weights in at 1.8kgs compared to 0.8kgs for the CG10DE pulley. Someone with access to some scales will correct me if I am wrong ;)
 
The car is at the shop for front lower bar replacement and polishing of the body. Not really performance enhancing but I like to have a solid good looking youngtimer as a base for modding. Hopefully Frank will be able to send me the exhaust mani part and I will start playing. So quick checklist of parts needed for this little project:

- crank pulley from cg10
- T/B from ga15
- injectors from ga15/16 - which color for my application?
- Frank's mani
- Flywheel from cg10 - which year was that again?
- new 02 sensor NTK 3 wire

I do not wish to open the motor just yet to increase compression, but thinking about it as a mod for after the main bolt ons are there...
 
the 98 - 00 1.0 flywheel is only about 2kg lighter muniek, so you wont feel a lot of difference tbh
you,re best to lighten yours really :)
 
I see. SO maybe I should get a 1.0 fly and get that lightened? Is there enough material to remove - I would assume there is... I am having a problem with identifying the throttle bodies from a 1.5 Nissans - it seems there are two types QG15 and GA15 - not sure if they differ though... I think Alemra was called sunny in JDM and that was n15. The almera II would be the n16..??
 
The ga15 is a jdm engine from the n15 pulsar/lucino, as far as I'm aware it was never released to the european market
 
That would make sense as: Almera I (called n15 here) had 1.4,1.6 and 2.0 motors. The Almera II, had then QG15 and QG18 motors. Question is is the t/b from a QG motor the correct one to fit? I heard it is a Hitachi t/b.
 
For simple plug and play.. No they're not, I don't think anyone has tried fitting a qg throttle body yet so I may be wrong
 
European N15
522e2397-38aa-097a.jpg


European N16
522e2397-38c3-0a75.jpg
 
So the N15 had a 1.5GA motor at some time?? I know they came in 1.4 / 1.6 / 2.0 but not 1.5. I am thinking that a N16 1.5 t/b would be the correct one... very confusing...

Update: replaced the rotten front lower member brace, and repaired a rusty sill (2 holes), yellow tint on fog lights. Frank's manifold piece should be hopefully here this week so I will be playing with that along a larger bore downpipe. Rest of exhaust in next month or 2 probably. I will also go with new lambda as I am getting 380 km's per tank now which is LOW imho...
 
Ok, thanks karlj.

Update: frank's mani part came in, all nice and safe. Nicely done part, nice accurate edges, and 02 bung to complete the kit. gave it to my welder to cut it, clean it up a bit and weld on. What is the best recommended method (just to double check) is to do it ? MIG, TIG?

thanks!
 
Muniek said:
Ok, thanks karlj.

Update: frank's mani part came in, all nice and safe. Nicely done part, nice accurate edges, and 02 bung to complete the kit. gave it to my welder to cut it, clean it up a bit and weld on. What is the best recommended method (just to double check) is to do it ? MIG, TIG?

thanks!
Click to expand...

nice one muniek (Y) you just need to remove the 3 bottlenecks eh (arrowed) and i fit the lambda thread where the circle is (so that you can refit the heatshield)
and i always arcweld them, but mig or tig would be fine eh :)

 

Attachments

  • SDC13241.JPG
    SDC13241.JPG
    96.7 KB · Views: 1,482
little update:

I contacted some renowned rally parts manufacturers in Poland regarding the micra and got very interesting info for all who could be interested:

- We have a cam manufacturer, they have ready made cams for the micra or they can make any cam. They offered me (which I think is wild??) inlet cam @ 292 degrees and lift of 10,86mm. What do you think about it?

- I got in touch with a famous inlet and exhaust engeener, and surprisingly he has plans for special CAI and exhaust for the micra as he prepared parts for rallycross and other events where the micra was popular. I do not need to add that everything is calculated to to fit car/engine specs.

The cai is about 150 quid, the cams are 200 quid each, I will see about the exhaust...

If anybody can suggest a proper duration (not wild rally cam) but a cam that will really liven up the car - I will be greatly obliged.
 
it is a special cai with some venturis and valves that accelerate the airflow using the venturi principles - it easily gives 10% of torque (the guy asks whether you need torque, power, where in the rpm range, etc). He prepares such cai's for strong rally cars with success for over 15 years now.

Also about the cam: I asked to quote only the inlet cam, as I hear they are the most important one in a CG13..?
 
i did the same thing with the inlet. its a really nice noise isn't it!

then i followed EBBDudes advice and bought myself some copper core ignition leads (http://www.holden.co.uk/displayprod...gnition&agCode=0354&agName=7mm+Ignition+Leads) and some Bosch Super 4 spark plugs (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-MI...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27ab67d7fd). the difference was not only noticable, but significant.

the next thing i did was fit an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. its this one (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-MI...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588979d1a9) works a treat at 3.25 Bar (standard is 2.5, and is a 30% increase) i took it up to 5 bar (100% increase) initially and it was soaking the spark out, real horrible misfires etc. brought it down to 4 bar (60% increase on standard), and although powerful, misfired on full throttle at low revs.

then, i cut up the exhaust. I removed the exhaust from the mid silencer back (had to cut the bolts off :( ), cut the pipe up and re-welded it. Now it comes from the mid silencer (was offensively loud without the mid silencer), straight back to the fuel tank heat sheild, turns 90 degrees and exits about 3" in from the drivers side sill. I tried putting another 90 degree with a £5 exhaust tip from halfrauds but it fuzzed the exhaust noise, so it was removed.

since then, i've put strongflex bushes on the front wishbones (the best modification for steering feel in my opinion), lowered the car (not sure how much by. but around 30-35mm) by cutting the springs, and i've put stiffer oil in the dampers, so its not too pogo bouncy!

The most important thing i've done is go lightweight. i have seriously removed the entire interior from the car (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...858.779783.516290857.513534234&type=1&theater) there is nothing in the back, excluding a small socket set, 2 screwdrivers and a bottle of holts tyre weld. I've removed a measured 98.790Kg. this means that when the car has 5L of fuel in it, it weighs 664.210Kg.

the power to weight of this with standard new power(78bhp) is 117bhp/ton, up from the standard 97.5bhp/ton. Obviously the car won't be running this power, its done 95,000 miles (152000kms) and when i bought it was tired. it had been driven into the ground. on that basis, i would hazard a guess that the car may be pushing a real 60-65bhp, between 90 and 97bhp/ton.

think my next steps are cams, cg10 pistons, light flywheel and (since reading this thread) a cg10 crank pulley.
 
Muniek said:
Also about the cam: I asked to quote only the inlet cam, as I hear they are the most important one in a CG13..?
Click to expand...

the 101hp/123 lb ft cube alpha CGA has valve timings of 0/53/33/0 muniek (stock 1.0 is 0/16/16/0 and 1.3 is 0/42/42/0) so it ran a wild inlet cam and milder than stock exh cam eh :eek:
the 155hp/142 lb ft nismo cams were both listed @ 304 deg, so take your pick :grinning:
 
good info again :) So really the 292 inlet cam is below Nismo spec but above alpha spec cam... might be interesting pick..I am just afraid that all power will be made all up in the upper range leaving the bottom dead...
 
Muniek said:
good info again :) So really the 292 inlet cam is below Nismo spec but above alpha spec cam... might be interesting pick..I am just afraid that all power will be made all up in the upper range leaving the bottom dead...
Click to expand...

yes, i ran a 285 inlet once, and was very dissapointed :eek: (tho i only had a stock c/r)
i had it re-ground to 260 in the end
and bear in mind the nismo 155hp was @ 8132 rpm lol
 
another interesting thing to mention about the CAI that was proposed to me: the venturis and valve make this cai work like a variable length intake system (i think Toyota's TWIS system was like that?)
 
frank said:
the 101hp/123 lb ft cube alpha CGA has valve timings of 0/53/33/0 muniek (stock 1.0 is 0/16/16/0 and 1.3 is 0/42/42/0) so it ran a wild inlet cam and milder than stock exh cam eh :eek:
the 155hp/142 lb ft nismo cams were both listed @ 304 deg, so take your pick :grinning:
Click to expand...

CGA3α cams are 236deg inlet, (8.32mm lift) and 214deg exhaust, (7.05mm lift), with timings 3/53/33/1. Also torque values are as above except for being in Nm, (I wish they were in lb/ft that would make for some serious performance eh ;)).

Interestingly if you search some of the Jap web pages for high bhp CG13DE engines they quote most of them having mods to the crank, h-section conrods, high comp pistons, big valve heads and are claiming only to be needing 260deg duration, (lift not specified), for 180ps @ 8500rpm.
 
Never seen this topic! Instantanely Suscribed ! Thanks to everybody for sharing knowledge... (Y)
 
January 2012 update:

Welded franks mani part onto the mani. Took a dremel and cleaned the narrowing in each mani tube (where it joins the head). I will soon collect some funds to build a decent rally exhaust and install everything. I also hope my cooperation with the engineer I talked about will yield positive results on my car.

Also looking ofr new shock for the rear - should I go Corsa B, if my springs in th rear will be - 50-55mm??

I love the handbrake in this car - one of the best in the business ;) and its not a hydraulic one...
 
After the simple air intake mod I had this annoying dip in the power curve around 4 k rpm - quite common. This surge of power , as I understand, is by the fact that the car is going lean around that rpm - i disconnected the lambda sensor to check how the ecu will cope with this - result - better throttle response, no dip - I think It overfuels @ idle as I get around 600 rpm, but mid to top - much better. Is this normal with this ecu??
 
after that "mod" I took her out to a short race track (composition: conbcrete bricks, some grass+mud+gravel, and some cocnrete panels... Micra does the job: the track consisted of a short track with a start where I get to the very end of the factory rev limit (90 km/h or so) - car is great - with almost stock suspension it swallows all bumps, and the engine revs easily to the rpm limit. Handbrake on this thing is amazing ( i forgot how good it was after 11 years od separation from k11) - my buddy took his neewly purchased evo 9, and the micra on this short but technical track was just behind his ass (he has 2 lancias evos, 2 evos 6 and ( and other toys) so he knows his stuff..it was pitch black with just some far away lights and lots of tires.

Breaks did not sweat a things, oem tokicos were excellent on the front - no struts but, the track was smooth (and wet enough) that the overhauld and low suspension did the job nicely - I hope that after changing the rear shocks and lowering it a bit (currently @ - 35mm) to - 50mm, the rear will tend to slide faster and will respond quicker - still great fun tonight...

BTW: the owner of the spot has a truck servicing point - I spent a few hours in there, my girl took the car back, so we had a few beers - he has a few great drifitng projects, americvan customs, rally cars, a truck (yes..) for drfiting, a monster truck, few army vehicles, etc. - great guy - loves power watersports (my other passion)... the track is his, and an additional drifitng track - and all this just 15 mins away from my house :)
 
102 kgs! Yeah its taken months of just looking and trying to find bits and pieces. it all started with the back seats, then the carpets and back interior bits. its now swallowed the entire dash and a number of studs from the bulkhead. all the back seat brackets have been ground off. I'm looking for a pug 106 to cut the flat floor out of and remove my wheel well altogether. then alloy seat frames (frank has something somewhere about these), plastic windows and anything else i can think of!

power to weight (full tank)
standard: 800Kg, 78bhp = 97.5bhp/ton
superleggera: 698, 78bhp = 111.77bhp/ton

with 5L
standard: 758Kg, 78bhp = 102.8 bhp/ton
lightweight: 660.8Kg, 78bhp = 118 bhp/ton
 
Muniek said:
After the simple air intake mod I had this annoying dip in the power curve around 4 k rpm - quite common. This surge of power , as I understand, is by the fact that the car is going lean around that rpm - i disconnected the lambda sensor to check how the ecu will cope with this - result - better throttle response, no dip - I think It overfuels @ idle as I get around 600 rpm, but mid to top - much better. Is this normal with this ecu??
Click to expand...

Yup, this is a very typical thing for a K11 to show, there's a peak in the OEM power curve around 2400rpm followed by a small drop off in torque, then a linear increase and another peak around 4000rpm. When exhausts and air filters are bolted on these peaks become exagerated and with lean fuelling you can end up with a peak at around 3000rpm and then a fall off in torque until 4800rpm when the ECU will suddenly add more injector duty. Torque will then increase and peak at around 5500rpm leaving the midrange quite lacking, (these are typical values based on 4-branch manifold, system and pod filter). Disconnecting the lambda sensor improves fuel delivery and helps power but the OEM combination will still be lean overall.
 
is a micra 800 kgs standard with fuel?? I though it was more like 875 kgs or something...

Lowrider: so what's the point of having this sensor connected anyways? Car drives much better without it now...and I just have a breathing mod on the engine and planning other mods soon..
 
yeah supposedly 800Kgs wet weight no driver passenger luggage etc. presume pre-facelifts are lighter and 'flying wing' models are heavier. i got no a/c to weigh me down either! i can pick up the entire back end of the car from one wheel arch..... or i could until i rolled the arches!
 
Low Rider said:
Disconnecting the lambda sensor improves fuel delivery and helps power but the OEM combination will still be lean overall.
Click to expand...

agreed. i put my fuel pressure regulator on to try and block it out. i think its worked as it pulls strongly throughout the range, even up to about 6500.
 
I wonder whther differen tyear micras had ecu mods in them in regards to fuelling and ignition. I disconnected the sensor and it certainly does not feel lean...maybe I will shove a afr meter in to chcek for sure...
 
Muniek said:
.maybe I will shove a afr meter in to chcek for sure...
Click to expand...

a very very useful gauge imo :) somewhat limited in bandwidth, but accurate inexpensive and long lasting.
and you can mitigate the lack of bandwidth by adjusting the fuel pressure up and down for testing :)
 
Hey Tom, how did you change the oil in your dampers mate? Did you do front and rear both? How are they dissassembled and rebuilt? What oil did you put in? Isn't this an easier better performance mod than mucking about with shocks off other vehicles?
 
ive not done it yet mate, but still have the plan in my head. will be playing with the idea this afternoon, and will come back with some results. the basic idea is to drill a hole in the damper leg (being very careful not to hit the actual damper rod in the middle!) remove all the original oil and measure the weight and quantity. then i'm gonna weld a nut over the hole, put new oil in and fill the nut with..... a BOLT! please note, i am not doing this to the damper on my car. i bought one a while ago and dis-assembled it with an angle grinder. these dampers are built to not be taken apart.
 

Similar threads

Thieme
Performance parts and emissions (MOT)
Replies
10
Views
1K
skymera
skymera
R
Facelift Engine Swap (trying to get some info!)
Replies
5
Views
1K
rj007
rj007
Seb_
1.3 Super S ECU on a 1.0 ?
Replies
9
Views
2K
Alexx117
Alexx117
C
Super-S Partout + Performance Bits
Replies
3
Views
182
CMF_mycra
C
M
cg13de performance engine??
Replies
1
Views
1K
frank
frank
Back
Top