rear load compensator on lowered micra

[v-plate profile senior]

couldnt find anything in the lowering guide.
if a k11 has been slammed about 45mm will the rear wheels lock up if the compensator isnt adjusted?i wanna know before the car goes on the road next week.anyone got any idea?

 

[pollyp]

http://micra.org.uk/threads/how-to-...-bias-compensator-valve-after-lowering.48457/

 

[Enuo]

couldnt find anything in the lowering guide.
if a k11 has been slammed about 45mm will the rear wheels lock up if the compensator isnt adjusted?i wanna know before the car goes on the road next week.anyone got any idea?

"45mm" and "slammed" aren't the same thing

 

[v-plate profile senior]

"45mm" and "slammed" aren't the same thing

yeah,cos lets face it,thats the important part.
well back in the day when i was a boy racer and modifying was called customising,raisng a cars ride height was called hunkering and dropping a cars ride height regardless of how much was called slamming.

 

[v-plate profile senior]

http://micra.org.uk/threads/how-to-...-bias-compensator-valve-after-lowering.48457/

thanks dude but i cant get that link to work

 

[pollyp]

U have to be a member to view DIY guides in the forum

 

[skymera]

yeah,cos lets face it,thats the important part.
well back in the day when i was a boy racer and modifying was called customising,raisng a cars ride height was called hunkering and dropping a cars ride height regardless of how much was called slamming.

But now it's 2013 where big zorsts are a sign of douch-bagism and bodykits are more out of fashion than Europe's dress sense.

FWIW, I've never adjusted mine and rear wheels don't lock.

 

[v-plate profile senior]

U have to be a member to view DIY guides in the forum

ah right.is there any chance you could copy and paste it and message it to me?would really appreciate it.dont want my kid ending up on wrong side of a hedge

 

[skymera]

ah right.is there any chance you could copy and paste it and message it to me?would really appreciate it.dont want my kid ending up on wrong side of a hedge

You want to pull the bias valve down so that the pressure is just taken off.
Hold in place with a zip tie.

Highly likely the adjuster nut is seized

Props to image OP

 

[v-plate profile senior]

But now it's 2013 where big zorsts are a sign of douch-bagism and bodykits are more out of fashion than Europe's dress sense.

FWIW, I've never adjusted mine and rear wheels don't lock.

haha yeah i get that.and trust me youd cringe at some of the horrid stuff we did to our cortinas and capris back in the day...
filling the back windows with stickers.
fuzzy dice
bolting on massive spotlights..gawd the list was endless at least when the 80s became the 90s things started to get a bit better.the less-is-more look kicked in which is continuing on today.big exhausts were ok on big cars.as long as they were set up properly.all too many guys stuck peco big bore back boxes on and wondered why their cars didnt sound different.
bodykits.....yeah thats a bit of a grey area.once again they looked smart on the right cars and awful on others.but yeah theyre definitely a bit old skool these days.and with the roads full of speed bumps these days theyre pretty damn impractical.

 

[pollyp]

when resting at stock height the little nut at the end of the spring rod pulls the bias arm away from the internal valve plunger and so with minimal loading on the valve, the brake fluid can flow in & out freely

when the rear is lowered below stock the nut no longer pulls the arm back at rest and instead allows the main spring to push up against the bias arm which then applies force against the valve plunger causing a constant restriction.
when braking, the applied brake pressure from the master cylinder can overcome this restriction, rear brakes would respond a little slower than the fronts

but when releasing the brake pedal the fluid can't return back easily, retaining the pressure and so the rear brakes bind causing premature wear, overheating disc & pads and poor economy

so what you need to do is lower the nut till it pulls the bias arm back out, just enough to relieve pressure off the bias valve

there's 2 ways to relieve load on the valves.

harder option number 1 is to remove trailing arm nut #1 then 2 spanners to loosen n remove the top nuts #2 & 3. they're most likely rusted on proper good so good luck.
once removed, take out the assembly and thoroughly wirebrush the threaded bar from rust and recut the threads with a tap/die set and regrease.
reinstall the assembly, tighten nut #1 at its lowest position then screw nut #3 down the pole until the compensator arm has moved bout a milimeter slightly away from the unit then tighten the locknut #2.

if the top nuts #2/3 are too rusty, not enough threads on pole to move the arm or just bone idleness skip to the 2nd option.

easier option number 2 is to just pull the compensator arm 1mm away from the unit using zipties between the arm and the bottom of the spring assembly where nut #1 is.

and the pic skymera posted​