CMF_ndxxx
» CMF Member
hey guys... i was told that my oil pressure was down... how do i raise the oil pressure? anyone else had a similar problem?
raising my oil pressure...
- Thread starter CMF_ndxxx
- Start date
CMF_frank2
» CMF Memberas long as the pump is servicable and the pressure relief valve is ok, then i guess new shells are your only option ndxxx
how long does it take for the light to go out in the morning ?
how long does it take for the light to go out in the morning ?
CMF_ndxxx
» CMF Memberabout 1 or 2 seconds. i was thinking it may just be the oil... im using penrite 10w-50 semii synthetic i think.
CMF_sikK11
» CMF MemberWho has checked it. Does the light come on at all and what does the gauge read if you have one hooked up. I have one here i can sell you which is a easy fit and will tell you how much its running at.
I doubt its to low.
I doubt its to low.
CMF_ndxxx
» CMF Memberwas just told yesterday when i got a pink slip done. what size is the oil pressure gauge sikk? if i was getting it it would need to be a 60mm guage
CMF_mipcar
» CMF MemberI'm more curious how he established it has low oil pressure and also why. My car at 366,000 k's still has no oil pressure issues.
I'm wondering if there is a fault in your oil filter or a pressure relief valve which might be stuck open with gunge.
Did you just recently swap to semi-synth. It might have shifted old gunge which has blocked things up.
I'm wondering if there is a fault in your oil filter or a pressure relief valve which might be stuck open with gunge.
Did you just recently swap to semi-synth. It might have shifted old gunge which has blocked things up.
CMF_ndxxx
» CMF Memberive been using semi for about 15000km nowand i didnt notice until the place who did my pink slip said something...the only thing that i could think of is that im really using the wrong oil filter or oil...
CMF_MSDVS
» CMF MemberAs a car gets more km's you need to use thicker oil!
Use 20w50 now until the car poops itself all together
Use 20w50 now until the car poops itself all together
CMF_mipcar
» CMF MemberHe's already using a 10w-50. 10w just means it stays fluid at lower temps and the 50 is the rating it will retain when hot.
20w-50 will gain nothing.
20w-50 will gain nothing.
CMF_MSDVS
» CMF MemberIf yu say so
CMF_mipcar
» CMF MemberWould I lie to you. ;-). I'm (almost) old enough to remember when oils were monograde. In those days a higher number gave you a thicker oil.
It was not until modern additives came on the scene that viscosity range and pour point expanded.
The low number means an oil can get colder before it turns to treacle and the higher the top number the better an oil will keep it's body at higher temps.
In old aircraft we use monograde oils. In the winter you can barely pour them.
Too heavy an oil (when cold) is actually counterproductive as it's harder for the pump to pick it up and slower for it to get around the engine.
It was not until modern additives came on the scene that viscosity range and pour point expanded.
The low number means an oil can get colder before it turns to treacle and the higher the top number the better an oil will keep it's body at higher temps.
In old aircraft we use monograde oils. In the winter you can barely pour them.
Too heavy an oil (when cold) is actually counterproductive as it's harder for the pump to pick it up and slower for it to get around the engine.
CMF_nz_aj
» CMF MemberIn NZ climate, I always use 20-40 or 20-50 in higher km engines to reduce rattle when cold.
Using 10-50 in a 200,000+ km engine will most surely rattle badly & take another second to reach pressure from startup.
Using 10-50 in a 200,000+ km engine will most surely rattle badly & take another second to reach pressure from startup.
CMF_mipcar
» CMF MemberAn excerpt from a oil website.
OK . . .What does a 5W-30 do that an SAE 30 won't?
When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear.
The last 6 sentences are the point I was making.
So an oil that begins at 10W can operate at colder temps but still perform upwards from there to it's top specified figure. Having an oil beginning at a 20w just means it cannot lubricate or rather flow as well when cold.
The oil I use in my car with 366,000k's is a 10w-40 and I have no issues.
OK . . .What does a 5W-30 do that an SAE 30 won't?
When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear.
The last 6 sentences are the point I was making.
So an oil that begins at 10W can operate at colder temps but still perform upwards from there to it's top specified figure. Having an oil beginning at a 20w just means it cannot lubricate or rather flow as well when cold.
The oil I use in my car with 366,000k's is a 10w-40 and I have no issues.
CMF_Mike R
» CMF Membergot 10w40 in mine , runs ok , still get the chain rattle at start up and the oil light goes out quick .
is the oil filter ok , some have a seal that stops the oil draining back into the sump , and some dont .....
edit
just started mine from cold and the light was out in 1/2 a second or so
that's with new oil and filter about 1000 miles ago ...
is the oil filter ok , some have a seal that stops the oil draining back into the sump , and some dont .....
edit
just started mine from cold and the light was out in 1/2 a second or so
that's with new oil and filter about 1000 miles ago ...
