Quick Shift Kit --------
- Thread starter Helloween
- Start date
Shaun
***StaGGeRed***
aha! here you go read down the page 5th paragraph down.
http://micra.com.au/technical-articles/factory-bolt-ons.php
http://micra.com.au/technical-articles/factory-bolt-ons.php
frank
Club Member
you could acquaint your stick with mr grinder :wasntme: (2/3 rds the throw compared to stock, 5 minute job lol)
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=14760&stc=1&d=1267043169
Attachments
OP
OP
Thanks guys for your replys, the short shift with grinder would only lower to lever LOOOL, looks cool, what i prefer is at least one inch in between gear change , i have an alpina bmw and a dogleg gearbox with an M3 short shift lever modified to it and you can push it up one inch and slots into gear and you can imagine with a dogleg changing gears up from 0-60 is very quick with the short shift... but nothing beats the micra with reliabilty!!!! allthough my alpina does 0-60 5.2 seconds and my 1.0l micra does it probably 10 secoonds with 1.3 cams (estimated) correct me if im wrong would actually like to know what they do!!
Cheers
J
Cheers
J
OP
OP
hi, what ill do is get hold of another shift lever and see what it looks like, if i was to cut the lever down to size i would then have to lean to my left more to reach the lever to shift.LOOOL, F--K me low as it is, normally the ball joint section to the gerabox would be longer to enable shorter throw... but maybe slightly diferent on micras...
J
J
micra compared to M3 wow i know we are on to winner now
this is a very intresting subject to me as i remember them old fiat mirafuri sports 131's was it?
i realy miss that feeling short shift gives you-control it gives you being directly and quikly in the gear you want your luky to be feeling it in the bmw
LET US KNOW THE PRICES ON THE MAT HUMPHRIES ONES
thanks big time! everyone (past memories that need to be present day memories)
micras69
Deactivated Account
the short shift from the nissan pulsar gtir fits the k11 from ebay for about £40 and if you arg going to DIY make shure you coat/protect the weld with somthing and there isnt any micky mouse welds or its just going to snap.
its pointles just coping a bit of the top of the gear stick too its not a short shift (doesnt improve the times of the throw) and just makes it harder to shift as there is less leverage
its pointles just coping a bit of the top of the gear stick too its not a short shift (doesnt improve the times of the throw) and just makes it harder to shift as there is less leverage
superls
K10 Tuner
i believe pulsar ones fit, not sure how the k11 ones work but the most efficient way of reducing gearstick throw is to add length to the part of the lever underneath the car. when i did mine, i cut a section out of the inside of the car, about 50mm, and welded this in underneath the car, that was a bit extream if im honest i think i could have got away with leaving the 50mm up top in.
now ive reduced the throw its more difficult to do clutchless gearchanges as ive lost most of the leverage.
now ive reduced the throw its more difficult to do clutchless gearchanges as ive lost most of the leverage.
frank
Club Member
how can a shorter stick not shorten the throw martin ? and of coarse its harder to shift (exactly the same as a pulsar one does, basic leverage principals i learned in junior school
)
micras69
Deactivated Account
how can a shorter stick not shorten the throw martin ? and of coarse its harder to shift (exactly the same as a pulsar one does, basic leverage principals i learned in junior school
yea i know that frank ive totaly worded that wrong, what im banging on about is its more hassel than what its worth if it was to be DIY'd i would just lenthen the bottom
frank
Club Member
its far harder to lengthen the bottom tho eh martin (removing, cutting, welding etc) and then you have exhaust clearance problems and the return spring wont reach/angle correctly fwn
(mine was cut in situ, and the thread drilled out of the knob, and superglued on :wasntme
OP
OP
Micra69, its what i mean, the throw is at the bottom of the lever where the joint is connected. cutting the lever down to size also helps slapping it up and down quicker..
Matt humphries are selling the short shift kits for 103.13 which includes delivery..
J
Manny
Ex. Club Member
did you get at yours with a grinder then? whats them rubbers on the seats?
frank
Club Member
yes manny :grinning: (you just need to protect the seats from sparks with some heavy cloth)
and they,re crank pulleys to show how much foam was removed from the driver seat :wasntme:
Manny
Ex. Club Member
ok frank. is it the same thing as putting in a short shifter?
frank
Club Member
its the poor mans (or lazy bas##rd ) version manny yeh :laugh:
frank
Club Member
BiAS posted this on my readers rides thread over on RR, presumably much the same as the link to cisco's
The ball at the bottom of the stick is nylon type stuff moulded onto to the stick. Remove your extension and the gaitor. With the car jacked up, from underneath take out the bolt at the bottom of the stick, let the shift rod drop. Undo the steady bar and mech off the rubber body mounts, let it drop down, bringing the stick down through the hole. On the top at the base of the stick are two bolts, removing these lets you remove the actual stick, put it loosely in a vice with the 'ball' resting on top and knock the stick down through it until it reaches the bend. Reassembly is the reverse of this process, greasing the ball and the bush at the bottom. Hey presto! Quick shift, or with your extension, normal sized gait
The ball at the bottom of the stick is nylon type stuff moulded onto to the stick. Remove your extension and the gaitor. With the car jacked up, from underneath take out the bolt at the bottom of the stick, let the shift rod drop. Undo the steady bar and mech off the rubber body mounts, let it drop down, bringing the stick down through the hole. On the top at the base of the stick are two bolts, removing these lets you remove the actual stick, put it loosely in a vice with the 'ball' resting on top and knock the stick down through it until it reaches the bend. Reassembly is the reverse of this process, greasing the ball and the bush at the bottom. Hey presto! Quick shift, or with your extension, normal sized gait
micras69
Deactivated Account
This is the DIY guide from cisco's micra files just incase people what to see how its done and what it should look like.
frank what do you make of the bit in bold mate?
:After frustratingly not being able to track down an aftermarket short shifter kit for the micra, I decided to make one myself. I had two main goals:
I wanted to substantially reduce the length of the upper section of the shifter so that it didn't look like it was from a bus.
I also wanted to increase the leverage of the shifter from underneath so that it would reduce the throw of the shifter regardless of the stick height.
I reduced the length of the top section of the stick by 75mm. This worked out really well as the factory gator now meets up with the bottom of the gear knob perfectly, so you can't see any black stick any more - its aesthetically pleasing.
I also inserted 30mm length into the bottom section. This increased the leverage that the shifter had which is attributable for the shorter throw.
All cuts were made with a hacksaw with the stick in a vice. The steel is hardened or something, not just ordinary mild steel, takes a bit to get through, but not too long. All joins were ground conically so that the welds have plenty of metal to fuse with. When it was all done, I sprayed a quick coat of matt black paint just to tidy it up and prevent rust. The exhaust shielding needs to be panel beated a bit too as the bottom of the shifter comes down another 30mm and prevents the shielding from fitting back on unless you bend a big recess into it. Also : I permanently stretched the shift lever return spring as it now has to bridge a much larger distance - no major drama and it works well.
The result? It's excellent. I just happened to get all the measurements perfect I think. The height of the shifter is awesome and the throw distance is ideal. It feels very racy and you can really throw it between the gears very quickly now - I guess there's potential for added stress and faster wear on the syncros, but its all good. Greater effort is required to move the selector out of a gear too. You can really notice it, you have to give it a bit more muscle, but I really love the feel of the short shifter. It's miles in front of just cutting the top section of the shifter down as you are still stuck with the factory long throw ratio.
Yes you will require a welder to do this. I am lucky to have a handy dad with a decent welder. He did all the welding for me as he's more experienced with welding than I am, but it looked pretty easy as long as you had everything clamped down in alignment properly first - great work dad!
This is an easy do-it-yourself modification, if you don't have a welder, cut the bits up yourself as per my measurements (or your own variations) and get some metal worker to do the welding for you - should cost very little as there's only 3 little welds to do. You re-use 30mm of the 75mm offcut to extend the bottom section.
frank what do you make of the bit in bold mate?
:After frustratingly not being able to track down an aftermarket short shifter kit for the micra, I decided to make one myself. I had two main goals:
I wanted to substantially reduce the length of the upper section of the shifter so that it didn't look like it was from a bus.
I also wanted to increase the leverage of the shifter from underneath so that it would reduce the throw of the shifter regardless of the stick height.
I reduced the length of the top section of the stick by 75mm. This worked out really well as the factory gator now meets up with the bottom of the gear knob perfectly, so you can't see any black stick any more - its aesthetically pleasing.
I also inserted 30mm length into the bottom section. This increased the leverage that the shifter had which is attributable for the shorter throw.
All cuts were made with a hacksaw with the stick in a vice. The steel is hardened or something, not just ordinary mild steel, takes a bit to get through, but not too long. All joins were ground conically so that the welds have plenty of metal to fuse with. When it was all done, I sprayed a quick coat of matt black paint just to tidy it up and prevent rust. The exhaust shielding needs to be panel beated a bit too as the bottom of the shifter comes down another 30mm and prevents the shielding from fitting back on unless you bend a big recess into it. Also : I permanently stretched the shift lever return spring as it now has to bridge a much larger distance - no major drama and it works well.
The result? It's excellent. I just happened to get all the measurements perfect I think. The height of the shifter is awesome and the throw distance is ideal. It feels very racy and you can really throw it between the gears very quickly now - I guess there's potential for added stress and faster wear on the syncros, but its all good. Greater effort is required to move the selector out of a gear too. You can really notice it, you have to give it a bit more muscle, but I really love the feel of the short shifter. It's miles in front of just cutting the top section of the shifter down as you are still stuck with the factory long throw ratio.
Yes you will require a welder to do this. I am lucky to have a handy dad with a decent welder. He did all the welding for me as he's more experienced with welding than I am, but it looked pretty easy as long as you had everything clamped down in alignment properly first - great work dad!
This is an easy do-it-yourself modification, if you don't have a welder, cut the bits up yourself as per my measurements (or your own variations) and get some metal worker to do the welding for you - should cost very little as there's only 3 little welds to do. You re-use 30mm of the 75mm offcut to extend the bottom section.
frank
Club Member
its just someones opinion manny
(just because its in black and white, it does,nt mean its true)
OP
OP
hoodedreeper
Ex. Club Member
Quick question regarding the Pulsar short shifter...
I've got one that came off Joe (moddedmicra's K11)....now is the fitment EXACTLY the same as the Pulsar? Or will i have to modify it?
Is it a simple case of...unbolting the OE Micra one...and replacing it with the Pulsar one? Does the holes/mounting points line up etc?
Sorry for the questions,i just dont wanna get the car up on the ramp and its more of a job
I've got one that came off Joe (moddedmicra's K11)....now is the fitment EXACTLY the same as the Pulsar? Or will i have to modify it?
Is it a simple case of...unbolting the OE Micra one...and replacing it with the Pulsar one? Does the holes/mounting points line up etc?
Sorry for the questions,i just dont wanna get the car up on the ramp and its more of a job
thats the options part i was saying a few options to cater for taste and budget
