Nismo clutch

Baz

Ex. Club Member
Got a nismo clutch disc,pressure and a flywheel for the st second hand,

Does anyony know by looking at the pics weather the are good to go,
they look alright to me?
 

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in a word no

that flywheel needs skimming, look at all the high spots on it, and the pressure plate has alot of high spots aswell. it looks as if the clutch has been riden. so in othr words that clutch is toast mate, sure it might work for a few 100 miles but i would rather use new
 
The clutch plate has some material left on it but it's cracked, it looks to me as if its been slipped or slipping a lot.

It takes some proper heat to make the metal go blue/rainbow like that.

In short (and i could be wrong) it's been cooked.
 
That clutch has been floating around Jap auctions for ages, no one has bought it previously, there may be a reason for that.
 
Having actually owned (several) of these I feel I am able to comment. The fly wheel is fine. You could skim it, but its not essential. Same for the pressure plate. The clutch is cracked yes but it wont fall appart, It looks to me that it has about 1/3 to 1/2 left in it.

If your concerned that your clutch is bad you should have seen the state of some of mine.
 
im a novice with clutches but am curious:

this one shows friction pads at 120 degrees. I have also seen some with 2 pads at 180 degrees....What is the configuration of the OEM clutch..??

Is it a continuous disc of friction material or 'other'

Also, are there many options for clutch upgrades (stronger, more durable clutches that will easily cope with torque boosting mods) than the OEM clutch?

Cheers all
 
Two pads at 180? Thats not a configuration ive seen. Usually its 3 or four puck clutches. The OEM clutch is a complete 360deg organic compound clutch. The one shown above here is a cerametalic compound. Its capable of withstanding very high temps. Nismo make a similar K11 clutch although its not as strong as the ST one shown above. There are various other options out there but it really depends on what you need and how much your willing to spend.
 
im a novice with clutches but am curious:

this one shows friction pads at 120 degrees. I have also seen some with 2 pads at 180 degrees....What is the configuration of the OEM clutch..??

Is it a continuous disc of friction material or 'other'

Also, are there many options for clutch upgrades (stronger, more durable clutches that will easily cope with torque boosting mods) than the OEM clutch?

Cheers all

The reason for the puck or paddle type clutches is that the force of the pressure plate acts on a smaller area therfor forcing it to 'bite' harder generally the less area the harsher the clutch will bite. there is so much involved with aftermarket clutches, the friction materials used vary from organic to cerametallic to carbon even kevlar, the strength of the springs can vary, the discs can be sprung or solid. Clutches can also be single plate or use several plates. I use an Ogura ORC clutch in my gt4, it's a twin plate unsprung cerametallic with slotted full face discs with an ultra light flywheel, there is a certain knack to driving with a clutch like this! it's pretty harsh. One thing to remember with the harder friction materials is that they will eat in to the flywheel.
 
Cheers ED & AMY, nice tutorial!

here's a scenario: A nitrous setup (on an otherwise un-beefed 988cc)

....the added power would come on with WOT but during gear changes and starting from still, the power delivery would be otherwise normal.

Do you think that the OEM clutch would suffice under these conditions or do you think that the added torque delivered by (say) a 50-shot would cause clutch slippage?

or to put it another way...what sort of performance (power/torque) mods would make a clutch upgrade a MUST.
 
That Nismo clutch will do upto about 150-180lbft which is more than enough for his ST. You can also use K11 center plates in them once that plate is worn and they are very smooth and nearly take as much power.
 
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