New Alloy Wheel Fitment and tracking etc..

[busterdan]

Hi all

I've picked up some old TSW alloys today, they need a good refurb having been sprayed black but they have barely any kerb damage and once refurbed I think they will look great.

I brought them without probably doing as much research as I should have done but based on this https://www.wheel-size.com/size/nissan/micra/2009/ I think they well fit.

Currently the car has steel wheels with 160/70 14's fitted and the new wheels already have 175/60 14's, so they are slightly wider but not as deep. I think the bore size about 60mm but I must admit I never even considered offset. So I may have wheels that are completely useless?

Assuming they fit is anything else going to be needed such as tracking/steering adjustment changes?

Thanks

Dan

 

[busterdan]

So I fitted one of the wheels last night to see how it fitted.... and it did fit but.....

The bore size on the wheels is much larger that the current steels and the hub, so it's really pain to get the bolts in the holes although it is possible and they do tighten (although they may be a bit on the short side). This got me wondering if it was possible for the wheels to drop slightly onto the bolt threads and at speed cause vibration. Therefore I assume some form of bore size adaptor might be needed.

Also the offset doesn't seem ideal, the wheels do extend outwards about a centimeter or two more that the steels, I'm guessing this will completely change the driving characteristics of the car? I'm not sure it's worth the hassle now to be honest and I may just sell them on again....

I found some more information here specific to this type of wheel rim... https://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/sty...heels-how-can-i-find-check-offset-urgent.html

Thoughts?

 

[John_D]

I wouldn't worry about the offset kicking the wheels outward , I have 20mm rear spacers fitted to my K12 to modify the rear track by the same amount, however you do need to get the bore shimmed as that is what locates the wheel centrally on the hub, the bolts are there to clamp the wheel not centralise it! Get the bore of the new wheels measured accurately and get the correct spigot rings to match the wheels to the 60.10mm hub location spigots of the K12... something like THESE . The supplier seems to have a range of sizes with 60.1 bore, you just have to chose the correct ones.

 

[busterdan]

I wouldn't worry about the offset kicking the wheels outward , I have 20mm rear spacers fitted to my K12 to modify the rear track by the same amount, however you do need to get the bore shimmed as that is what locates the wheel centrally on the hub, the bolts are there to clamp the wheel not centralise it! Get the bore of the new wheels measured accurately and get the correct spigot rings to match the wheels to the 60.10mm hub location spigots of the K12... something like THESE . The supplier seems to have a range of sizes with 60.1 bore, you just have to chose the correct ones.

John, thanks for the link that's really helpful - I do a bit more research. Been quoted £60 per rim for complete acid removal of the paint and spray up.... but that feel on the high side to me, I could probably buy new alloys for that. I think I will give them a jet wash at the weekend as I reckon much of the black will come off anyway and I'm confident the finish underneath is pretty good.

 

[John_D]

John, thanks for the link that's really helpful - I do a bit more research. Been quoted £60 per rim for complete acid removal of the paint and spray up.... but that feel on the high side to me, I could probably buy new alloys for that. I think I will give them a jet wash at the weekend as I reckon much of the black will come off anyway and I'm confident the finish underneath is pretty good.

Where are you, £60 each for those small wheels sounds a bit high, I got the 17x7j alloys on my Saab totally refurbished, including removing tyres refitting and balancing by THESE people for less than £50 a wheel.
Front.....

and back.....

 

[busterdan]

Wow, they look really nice.... do you have a before picture....

I'm in Kent so Herts is a bit of a trek, I have messaged a few local places but only had a response from one.

On the rings, I think the bore hole is 72mm so these would do the job but I have sent the seller a message anyway... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-72-0MM...GOT-RINGS-SPACER-RINGS-HUB-RINGS/151369309578

Been driving for years but I've never really need to mess about with wheels. Do you think the difference in offset and width of wheel will change the driving characteristics much and are steering/tracking changes going to be needed too, I was thinking that the toe in/out would all be wrong?

 

[John_D]

No before pictures but they were really scabby with paint bubbling up and corrosion.
Once you have the wheels properly concentrically located on the hubs you will probably not notice a lot of difference in the handling but the K12 does need wider offset wheels to fill the wheel arches and improve the looks. I would not expect any changes to be needed in the tracking, toe in/out unless the set up is not currently correct. My K12 came with 16 x 6j alloys as standard and as mentioned earlier I have fitted 20mm hub-centric spacers to the rear to increase the rear track, at the same time that I fitted 160SR sports springs all round and Koni Sports rear dampers, the road holding is 'quite good'

 

[busterdan]

I think the steering is currently fine, the relatively small turning circle is great - so your comments are reassuring thanks.

If I was able to get similar result as you have on your Saab rims I'd be well happy.

 

[busterdan]

Sorry folks another quick question.... will the original steel bolts for the steel wheels be OK, I was thinking more thread length as I'm assuming the mounting thickness of the steel is much less than that of the alloy?

Apparently the bolts are M12 x 1.5, but I haven't had a chance to check their length. I'd probably get some nice new chromed ones... any suggestions please?

 

[John_D]

This is one of the standard K12 wheel bolts that came with my car that had alloys on from the factory .......

(I have got these off of the car as I had to fit 20mm longer ones to the rear, when I fitted the hubcentric spacers.)
As an after thought, as the replacement wheels did not originate on a K12 or perhaps even a Nissan, check that the bolt seating is indeed a taper angle and not a flat seating like some of the Citroen alloys have......
Like the lower one in this picture.......

 

[busterdan]

Much appreciated John.... I think (need to check) that the steel wheel bolts have 28mm threads which looking at your image above and taking just the threads would be the same I think.

 

[busterdan]

The Steel bolts I took out a week or so ago (to take the photo above) was definitely a tapered bolt but I can't remember the exact length, I'll check the thickness of the TSW alloy, compared to the steel and just add the difference (if any). I've seen quite a few wheel bolts of quite short thread lengths 17-19mm so I'm quessing when it comes to wheel bolts it's not the length that counts

 

[John_D]

The Steel bolts I took out a week or so ago (to take the photo above) was definitely a tapered bolt but I can't remember the exact length, I'll check the thickness of the TSW alloy, compared to the steel and just add the difference (if any). I've seen quite a few wheel bolts of quite short thread lengths 17-19mm so I'm quessing when it comes to wheel bolts it's not the length that counts

As a rule of thumb, the optimum length of engaged thread of a bolt is one and a half thread diameters, so in this case that would be 18mm or as the thread pitch is 1.5mm, 12 full turns of the bolt once the thread engagement starts.....

 

[busterdan]

As a rule of thumb, the optimum length of engaged thread of a bolt is one and a half thread diameters, so in this case that would be 18mm or as the thread pitch is 1.5mm, 12 full turns of the bolt once the thread engagement starts.....

Ah OK.... I wasn't aware of that... useful to know