Need some Clutch Advice (tried search)

[rlees85]

Ok im gna be doing some work on my car, the kind that wud make changing the clutch convieniant....

The cars a 2001 and has done 45k. Will be running no more then 85hp for a VERY long time.

Should i?

Keep my standard clutch for now, and replace it whenever it burns out naturally, i think its in fairly good shape at the minute, no slipping etc.

Get a new one, just a standard one however (around £50 quid, not geniune nissan) - How long would one of these last approximatly (in miles?)

Get an uprated one, and if so where from and for approximatly how much? To be honest i wasnt expecting to spend more then £50 quid on a decent clutch but im beginning to think that aint gna happen lol. Bear in mind money is quite a big issue!



Thanks v. much guys!

 

[Ian]

just wait till it burns out. No point in uprating it for such a small increase in power. An increase in power won't really make much difference if driven properly. Torque will though.

 

[runaway-robot]

keep the one u have... 85 bhp is nothing the normal clutch cant handle

 

[rlees85]

cheers, i should say i currently have a 1.0, but i think the post 2000 1.0s use the 1.3 clutch anyway.

how many miles does the factory clutch normally cover then??

cheers ppl!

 

[Alienfish360]

mine is still going good on 95k

 

[Ed]

FYI I can supply new K11 uprated clutch kits for around £150. These are single plate organic and should be good for around 40% incrase or more on what a standard K11 1.3 clutch could take.

 

[gam1984]

cheers, i should say i currently have a 1.0, but i think the post 2000 1.0s use the 1.3 clutch anyway.

how many miles does the factory clutch normally cover then??

cheers ppl!

Mines on its second now and its slipping. I'm at 62k. Either I've been unlucky or I'm riding that clutch like an old lady.....

 

[rlees85]

thats bad, i think you've been unlucky. was your 2nd clutch a nissan one? uprated? or just "any old" one? i heard a load've bad stuff about the standard non-nissan "any old" ones :s

 

[Yom]

Mines on its second now and its slipping. I'm at 62k. Either I've been unlucky or I'm riding that clutch like an old lady.....

Or you've got a crank seal leak which is throwing small amounts of oil into the bellhousing and getting on the clutch plate which is making it slip and wear out prematurely.

 

[gam1984]

thats bad, i think you've been unlucky. was your 2nd clutch a nissan one? uprated? or just "any old" one? i heard a load've bad stuff about the standard non-nissan "any old" ones :s

I'm assuming that it was just a bog standard non-nissan one. Had a garage do it for me at about 35k and it cost me about £150 (which is quite cheap.....I think). Unfortunately that probably meant I got a crap clutch.

Interestingly though, my Grandad's K10 has only done 63k and its been through 2. One was done at the same garage as mine.....I know nothing at all about mechanical stuff, so I have no idea whether they'd use the same clutch components on a K10, but it seems rather a big coincidence.

Or you've got a crank seal leak which is throwing small amounts of oil into the bellhousing and getting on the clutch plate which is making it slip and wear out prematurely.

That don't sound good.....

 

[Yom]

Hearing that last part about the garage makes me shudder. Its possible they're using the wrong type of grease on the input shaft/throwout bearing and as the grease heats up it is flicking off and coming in contact with the clutch.

May I suggest you avoid going there for any future servicing needs?

"Rear main seal" as it is commonly referred to is an easy replacement. You have to remove the flywheel to get to it (easy enough with a torque wrench). If you're getting the flywheel removed you may as well get it machined and have a kilogram or so shaved off the outer edge and also on the backside (the k11 flywheel is 2-piece, like subarus, and when the rear plate is unbolted there's a whole big nice surface where a machine shop can quite safely take off a close to half a kilo of metal). You wouldnt believe it but taking off 1kg from the outer edge of the flywheel makes a very noticeable difference to how the car revs. Doesn't make the car a pig to drive on highways or going up hills either.

Oh yeh, for the record the Haynes manual goes through how to replace the seal - but you don't have to do what they say!!! The Haynes is far too complex and unless there's oil leaking around the big retainer plate that the haynes manual describes you don't need to remove it at all. You don't even have to drain the sump to replace the seal - only need to drain the oil if you follow the Haynes manual.
The rear main seal can be removed quite easily with a "seal remover" (or in my case, i screwed a small screw into it and then pulled it out with some pliers - you have to be very careful not to damage the metal around the seal. VERY CAREFUL) and the new one can be pushed in with very little effort (using the old one as a hammering medium you can use a rubber mallet to gently push the new seal into place).

You're wasting your time and money by not replacing the seal when you replace the clutch. If it fails you could dump alot of oil without realising potenitally ruining your motor AND your brand new clutch. Not to mention needlessly spill oil into the environment.

I dont know how much the seal is in the UK, but to buy it here in Australia is ridiculous - costs around $70AUD which is about 30 pounds!

Cheers

EDIT: you're also meant to replace the gearbox input shaft seal... Its a very, very cheap item. Only problem is that the gearbox casing has to be split open to replace it. That's the expensive part if you're not keen on giving it a go yourself. I personally didn't replace mine. I know I'l regret the decision if the seal fails and my brand new LUK Heavy Duty clutch is ruined.

 

[hughes_16v]

my original clutch gave up at 74k and i replaced with a valeo one never had any problems