need info re front wishbone - balljoints

funky2nite

funky2nite

Ex. Club Member
Hi Guys sorry to bother again. Just got a new job since completing my degree.
am working in a bad area where junkies get their meds, and have had all audio stolen from my k11. bugger.

micra is getting worse although I still believe it's stil la solid runner, but it's desperate for attention, and am aware that this hasn't took place overnight..but was really tight on funds and even still cannot afford taking it to a workshop. It's been sittin on 195/65/r15 tyres which are due for a change. I've had 15mm ventura lowering springs fitted like 4yrs back and new oem/stock shocks were fitted with the springs.

But ever since the ride quality has deteriorated that now the steering wheel turns forcefully upon driving over bumps even small ones. as a matter of fact my aftermarket steering has developed two slight cracks.. I know I know I'm the one to blame. Would appreciate any sort of guidance what to look out for to determine what must be bought so I'll buy them off British breakers and have them sent over to my country. A friend of mine who have glanced at the car from beneath, mentioned the rear mounting which has no rubber left, and a sort of bar at the center of the micra which sits on two bolts with rubber washers, and the washers are all gone. Apart from that he's driven it and mentioned IIRC balljoints or wishbone. is there anyhow I can confirm what must be bought? anyway of testing the wheels for movement etc? hopefully I'll buy the parts progressively and fit them myself during wknds.

As if things aren't bad enough, the roof's corner driver side a considerable rusthole has developed within the channel where roof carrier sits and it's nearing the windshield. I have temporarily applied sealer to stop water from leaking in. but now it has since the hole grew bigger. I've just been reading on fixing rust holes although this one is in a difficult place to reach and critical by nearing the windshield.. but hopefully I'll be able to do it myself I need to motivate myself since after the robbery I've grown really hesitant of the car, with the harsh ride, leaks, steering wheel and last week my girlfriend noticed fuel smell. I've been driving for ever a month with a leaking fuel line. I simply didnt notice the smell since the air vent was set to recycle. the pipe was completely disintegrated have no clue with what or how since I checked its surroundings.. could be the pump is to strong.. I'll post a pic later this week on what I found. and that has been sorted thankfully. sorry guys for writing long but here's the only refuge I find re my micra.


Cheers,
Ian - Malta
 
Guys what's wrong with your perception of my country? I work in the locality where junkies are provided with their daily meds as means of rehab. Although I thought im wise I lower d sound and have everything concealed. I returned after work to find everyfeckin thing upside down. Parcelshelf in middle of the street. Etc.. ironically in the boot I had a dildo from a bachelors party weve had 2 weeks back and noone wanted to keep it I thought of keeping it in the car for joking reasons. Even that they took.. but **** em.many help re car repair?

btw d cops here r brilliant. They thieves must have come out of a certain stret whic has cctv and5he cops simply didnt pick it up from the owner..and they were about to take it against me the moment I pressured him to get it by asking to watch it wih him. Butbobviously then he would have to do his lousy job..so the reply wassss a definite nooo
 
Hi Ian
Sorry to hear about your car and hope all will be well soon
The steering being jolted around would suggest to me that your setup is too stiff. Do you have a front anti roll bar? As it may be a sign of excessive bump steer?

Fuel pipes deteriorate in time and may just be due replacement

Your balljoints are a part of a wishbone and are easily bought new and replaced

The rear bar is known as a panhard rod and keep the rear wheels aligned when a car is lowered

Rust can easily be fixed with a rust treatment and fibreglass. Even better would be a welded patch
 
Thanks 701 for being the first to shine some light on my issues. The micra is still stock with regards to the anti roll bar. I.e. there should be none.

so should I buy new balljoints straightaway for both wheels or any other ancillaries? Wih regards to the panhard rod would I find replacemnt rubber washers for the bolts? In fact from the rear the car still gets lots of bumps too but I notice the knocking from the front way more.

I can get me a welded patch. The thing Is that the rust is in the sort of u-channel in the roof so the metalbpatch should be bent to fit. I had the idea the fill up both the whole channels with filler since silt is sitting their after rain and hat what I believe is causing the rust. Since Ill never think of setting up a roof rack. Would that be better? I guess it shouldnt be a big probsandng filling sanding and coating.

Ill post tons of pics of whatever s involved. Since thats what im good at doing most.

I was amazed when I bought the replacment fuel line which p.s. must be 8mm inside hole since I had to go three times to keep buying a larger inside diameter pipe, the replacement one was a transparent silicone like pipe. Whilst the thinner pipes I was sold earlier were the black rubber ones stitched.

thanks
ian
 
Do wishbones get replaced? Or any their attahments I.e. what should I look out for new wishbone? New balljoints? Anyway to check out for signs to notice what exactly needs replacing?

the car isnt just stiff in terms of upgrading the springs or shocks if thats what you meant. Since these have been installed for quite some time and the car has now deteriorated in ride quality substantially I now got to believe that theres anamount of wear and there in sucg parts.
 
Not a problem at all
If you're to replace the wishbones first then replace both sides at the same. It will make a noticeable difference in how the car feels. This may eliminate your steering issues.

For the panhard rod I would recommend a replacement from Nodspeed (@noddie) they're direct fit and adjustable for lowered cars

I would do the same with the U channel.
Have it patched first then fill them in. I've never noticed a detrimental effect from it

8mm sounds right. Mine are 7.5mm
Doesn't what pipe it is so long as it is designed for use with fuel :)
 
Thanks for replying instantly. I was more querying on what should ideally be changed and I
n which orser? Seeing the tight budget im on. Balljoints ? Wishbones? Or both? Or can I change which first and see hos things come up?
 
h701micra said:
Ball joints are part of the wishbone so you get both together. But buy one for each side of the car :)
Click to expand...
...do make sure you get one for the O/S and one for the N/S...they face opposite ways so 2 of the exact same part, no good ;)

Eg: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-MICRA-K11-FRONT-1-WISHBONE-ARM-BALL-JOINT-BUSHES-/280077203070

You can get the ball joints (bushes) separately, well you certainly can for the k12 set up, but changing them (in the actual arm) is very difficult as you'd need a serious ball joint splitter thing and a lage hammer...so just get a whole new arm ^_^

You may also need to get the tracking checked when the suspension wishbones have both been changed.

Edit: sorry about the robbery :(
I know from experience how much that sucks <_<
 
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Thanks guys, both of yous H7 and Jen. I managed to take some pictures of the current condition although wishbones are still installed on the car. Maybe they'd give you some pointers on their condition.. to my dismay it's been 2 months after the robbery I simply didn't wash my k11.. now I did and just found the passenger side front mud guard split from beneath due to rusting..! but that I might be able to weld a new joint with bolt holes. Below are the pics:




Btw Jen tracking..dunno much about it but am willing to get some insights.. what does it involve exactly? I think the steering might need attention since the current condition of the ride i.e bumps is highly deteriorated having the steering turn forcefully upon going over any sort of bump or hole even small ones.. the feel simply gets to you nothing is keeping it to the wheels.the car's not falling apart the micra's stil la solid runner cos I might make it seem that way, but anything that has to do with the ride and bumps is simply malfunctioning. the steering tilts a few mm's up n down but that might be from the boss kit getting the bumps after all this time. that doesnt bother me much though.
 
Jen319 said:
...do make sure you get one for the O/S and one for the N/S...they face opposite ways so 2 of the exact same part, no good ;)

Eg: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-MICRA-K11-FRONT-1-WISHBONE-ARM-BALL-JOINT-BUSHES-/280077203070

You can get the ball joints (bushes) separately, well you certainly can for the k12 set up, but changing them (in the actual arm) is very difficult as you'd need a serious ball joint splitter thing and a lage hammer...so just get a whole new arm ^_^

You may also need to get the tracking checked when the suspension wishbones have both been changed.

Edit: sorry about the robbery :(
I know from experience how much that sucks <_<
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply and esp for the provided link. those are neatly priced. Although I need to ad like 20-25quid to have a courier redirect them to my country. and I made to phone calls to parts suppliers locally, one quoted me 65quid and another mentioned 35quid for wishbone. Should I be looking at anything else apart wishbones and balljoints? that has to do with the knocking from beneath? As IIRC even from the rear wheels I think there's some slight knocking but as I've mentioned earlier theres that center rod/bar that is bolted with two bolts and both have rubber gromets/washers to prevent knocking to the chassis. and boat rubbers have perished away so that could be the noise..
 
Any pointers if I can simply buy the bushes for the 'panhard rod' if that's what I was referring to earlier, rather than buying a whole new rod adjustable. since I'm not happy anymore with the lowered results now that all this started to take place.
 
The adjustable Panhard rod is the best solution to a lowered car :) i'm not entirely sure if bushes are available to buy anymore :/
The panhard rod should sort out any alignment issues you have on the rear

The front however is different. Unfortunately cars aren't designed to be that low so parts are put under more strain than was designed. Replacing wishbones and bearings is commonplace is the most lowered of car but should be ok on your car if it isn't too lo

Any adjsutment to the suspension of your car must be addressed in the tracking. Tracking is where the wheels are aligned to manufacturer specifications. When a car is lowered the wheel alignment is directly affected and affects the way the car drives and handles
 
thanks man you're awesome, you answer each time. one of the best things that has ever been earned with the micra was this land of knowledge and infinite support. I must point out that once I had the car lowered with new ventura springs to 35mm lowering I replaced new shocks all round but the shocks were oem dunno if this must have been diff for lowered springs. currently hav no budget to replace any if these if necessary. since I must buy 2 new front wheels, sort both wishbones..presuming im gonna need new panhard rod. and have to sort rusting over christmas shutdown. roof, tailgate and passenger front mudguard which has come off loose from the under bolts.
 
You're welcome. Its why were here :)
At 35mm you should be out of the danger zone for stressing parts out. Shocks will be ok as long as the Bump Stops remain. As seals get ruined if you go beyond that point. 2 new wishbones and a panhard rod should see you back on track. Once all parts are swapped over and you're happy take it somehwere to have your wheel alignment (tracking) done.

Sounds like you've a few jobs to do over the Christmas period but no car is perfect and all have problems now and again
 
one last question guys, first of all gudmorning. I'm after d rear engine mounting which a friend of mine mentioned its also perished. Till which micra model should I look at breakers for parts? eg is facelift still compatible for the rear engine mounting, next to the tranny? since facelift model could be 99 or 2000 which in return infer less years of usage on the part. before I start looking I wanted to be sure.

cheers,
Ian BTW Happy Christmas to existing micra owners and ex-ones too :D
 
funky2nite said:
one last question guys, first of all gudmorning. I'm after d rear engine mounting which a friend of mine mentioned its also perished. Till which micra model should I look at breakers for parts? eg is facelift still compatible for the rear engine mounting, next to the tranny? since facelift model could be 99 or 2000 which in return infer less years of usage on the part. before I start looking I wanted to be sure.

cheers,
Ian BTW Happy Christmas to existing micra owners and ex-ones too :D
Click to expand...
baguete say,s they are all the same bar preface 1.0 eh http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/wheres-this-from-please.58877/#post-650014
 
frank said:
baguete say,s they are all the same bar preface 1.0 eh http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/wheres-this-from-please.58877/#post-650014
Click to expand...

cheers Frank you've always helped me in my queries here at the forum :)

After some thought I figured that I knew what a panhard rod looked like. The bolts with ruber bushes/washers that has now perished away IIRC are holding this metal bit in place: http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii296/funky2nite/micra/micraunderneath_zps816e77aa.jpg and not the panhard rod.
 
funky2nite said:
cheers Frank you've always helped me in my queries here at the forum :)

After some thought I figured that I knew what a panhard rod looked like. The bolts with ruber bushes/washers that has now perished away IIRC are holding this metal bit in place: http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii296/funky2nite/micra/micraunderneath_zps816e77aa.jpg and not the panhard rod.
Click to expand...

Thats your engine engine cross member bud, if those rubbers have perished you ll get more vibration into the cabin
 
Skinner_87 said:
Springs stop the roll rather thatn the arb Frank?
Click to expand...
frank said:
dunno really paul, lowering tends to give good handling gains, and removing the a/r/b,s seemed to have no effect on mine
Click to expand...
Lowering a car brings the CoG (roll centres) down hence better handling. Springs are usually stiffer to physically prevent roll. But shouldn't be stiffened to purposely prevent roll
A car with no arb will roll as normal on high g bends :)

Edit: To add to it... Nissan will have introduced the arb is such a way that it slightly provokes understeer too as its deemed safer :)
 
Mine has a stock rear anti roll bar sry for that guys. Thanks skinner for pointing that out, it's the crossmember then. would I be able to get new rubber bushes? Of course the cabin feels like hard vibra for every road surface deformation. So all in all, it's both the wishbones, rear engine mount, and the rubber bushes for the engine cross member.

Thanks guys, this sat I'm gonna go fetch the wishbones. anyone can hint for a rear engine mount.
 
Hi Guys sorry to bother again, have jacked the car up and unbolted the first wishbone. yet I have difficulty in getting the bolt clost to the tranny out although the nut has been removed. and the mount with the balljoint. although the pin has been removed and the nut has been loosened, i cannot understand the correct way to get both parts out.

20131224_112321_zpsf763c521.jpg


Above, I'm jacking the ball joint in hope of relieving the bolt near the tranny since it seems to be taking some sort of weight or stress, since it budges slightly and makes noises as if it's scraping. although the nut has been removed. The other prob is how to get the part of the ball joint out since I tried hammering the wishbone down but it seems the same kind of taking some sort of weight. I tried unjacking, but still its not making much difference.
20131224_112240_zps00d619f3.jpg


Above is the balljoint bolt, with nut unscrewed but the ball joint seems slightly tilted, and am not sure if that's whats restraining the wishbone from coming out from this side.

20131224_112308_zps9aeed306.jpg

Above is the bolt as mentioned earlier close to the tranny. with nut removed.

Guys youre my only hope since if I dont manage I'll have to put on the bolts again with the old wishbone in. So i can drive the car until i find a solution. thanks and happy christmas to everyone at the club!

The photos below are for your info. would appreciate your help since I need to use the car late this afternoon. you're the only ones I can rely on.

thanks guys,
Ian - Malta
 
frank said:
the bottom balljoint is taper fit ian, and is the other bolt rusted into the rubber mount ?
Click to expand...

No thankfully rust doesnt seem to be the prob. other bolt seems ok in terms of rust. I've manged the budge it a little but its too stressed kind of its like taking a lot of weight or something. Im refering to this one bel;ow :
20131224_112308_zps1b86b517.jpg


and the balljoint one if its taper it should come out easily.. any specific way or just hammer things out?
 
the bottom edge of the wishbone with the whole rubber thingy, the two bolts holding the mount have been undone ok. some hammering all it took. its the only end of the wishbone that has been removed from the car. now the balljoint one and the one opposite it close to tranny are the problem.
 
is the bolt springy mate ? will it turn ?, and i usually hit the balljoint surround with 2 hammers to jolt the taper free
 
frank said:
is the bolt springy mate ? will it turn ?, and i usually hit the balljoint surround with 2 hammers to jolt the taper free
Click to expand...

yes it springy... is this sign of it will snap? o_O

let me go try and kick the **** out of the balljoint surround with the hammer
 
funky2nite said:
yes it springy... is this sign of it will snap? o_O

let me go try and kick the #### out of the balljoint surround with the hammer
Click to expand...

thats because its fused into the bush ian, if you cant free it off you end up having to grind the head and tail of the bolt off and levering it out
you could use a balljoint splitter on the balljoint
 
I have put things back in place with i.e. bolted back the old wishbone, until I get myself a fitting bolt and a grinder for fixing the wishbone mount. If anyone goes through the same issue, the bolt must be head size spanner 19, 75mm in length from head to threaded end. and thread diameter is 11.3ishmm


The video here explains what Frank presumed was happening, the springing effect due to the bolt fusing with the rubber bush. BTW would using an impact wrench get it loose?
 
I replaced all my bolts with stainless steel bolts
You'll want M12 x 70

If you turn the bolt you'll hear the insert turning inside the rubber
They've either rusted together or the bolt itself has bent :)
 
sorry to hijack and bring back up, but I'm doing the same job today with difficullty i can't even budge the bolt holding the wishbone in as in video. I was hoping to drop it all down with the a/r/b still attached then same on the grasser, if i do it this way can i just grind the nuts off if can get to it and replace with new ones? not to sure how they look when come out

Cheers
 

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