Need a little guidence (throttle body problems)

[euro_micra]

I keep getting the problem where the engine refuses to rev for a few seconds when I want to move away from a junction, only happens occasionally and it feels like I've put it into the wrong gear. I thought it was the typical throttle body problem so I re-soldered it last week. I thought it worked, but just last night and this morning its done it again. After reading a few posts, other people have had similar problems with the re-soldering not working but little expaining how it was fixed.

So what do you guys recommend, new maf sensor? new throttle body? or more importantly is there anything else I could do before buying anything? Thanks. Matt

 

[frank]

i find that a voltmeter wired to the lambda middle wire is very useful for diagnosing faults like that matt, its pretty limited being only narrow band, but if it goes off the scale lean whenever the fault occurs, then it helps to pinpoint the problem :grinning:

 

[euro_micra]

i find that a voltmeter wired to the lambda middle wire is very useful for diagnosing faults like that matt, its pretty limited being only narrow band, but if it goes off the scale lean whenever the fault occurs, then it helps to pinpoint the problem :grinning:

Thanks for that Frank. Not got round to doing it yet only voltmeter I got's at my dads. So I'd connect it up to the middle wire then drive around till the problem occurs lol could take a while. What would it narrow it down to?

And could it be something caused by worn-out spark plugs not firing correctly which would restrict the revs on acceleration?? There's a slight judder as it happens, then it pulls away fine after a couple of yards. Just a thought as they need replacing soon.

 

[frank]

its just that it helps to rule out/pinpoint things matt, if it acts normally it could be a spark problem like you say, or if it goes off the scale lean it could be a fuel problem eh :grinning:

 

[euro_micra]

Still having this problem. And it's really annoying and has been rather dangerous at times, so want to get it fixed, I also look like a plonker whos put it into the wrong gear
Car has had new spark plugs and distibuter so I can't imagine it being because of them and I've ran a couple of tanks with redex in it, so don't think its fuel or injector related, which probably narrows it down to throttle body. Any suggestions? And am I right in saying it's possible to bypass the maf sensor(so it's stuck on one setting)therfore it should still run although not perfect, but would not give this slow reaction at all?

 

[martinb]

I had the same problem, try soldering the 3 points in your tb, it takes 2 mins and a bit of silicone, worked a treat on my old car and never had a single problem after!! Good luck

 

[lucasmax]

Umm if it was a sensor problem wouldnt it be happing all the time?

 

[gtsnissanb]

Umm if it was a sensor problem wouldnt it be happing all the time?

nope
if its a dry weld it can strike at anytime usually once warmed up, alot of sensors also dont show signs of wear until they are put under large load i.e. unbuilt up full throttle (stamping your foot down when cruising) can cause missfires due to weak sensors not being able to handle the instant input but they will handle full throttle if its slowly built up:suspect:

 

[gtsnissanb]

also at the op
it sounds like a weak spark posibly from the dizzy rotor arm dizzy cap ht leads, if none of those then ignition module (igniter) are common failures on other cars and have a similar effect could be that(Y)

 

[gtsnissanb]

Still having this problem. And it's really annoying and has been rather dangerous at times, so want to get it fixed, I also look like a plonker whos put it into the wrong gear
Car has had new spark plugs and distibuter so I can't imagine it being because of them and I've ran a couple of tanks with redex in it, so don't think its fuel or injector related, which probably narrows it down to throttle body. Any suggestions? And am I right in saying it's possible to bypass the maf sensor(so it's stuck on one setting)therfore it should still run although not perfect, but would not give this slow reaction at all?

you can unplug the maf we did it on a skyline that wouldnt run, it would run but only in limp mode better than not running, we needed to move it away to start work:grinning:

 

[euro_micra]

Hi, thanks for the replys. I'm fairly sure it's not a problem with the dizzy as I've had a another one put on since the first post. HT leads possibly, but very unlikely I would have thought. Which led me to believe it would be a problem with the throttle body and its sensors.

I had the same problem, try soldering the 3 points in your tb, it takes 2 mins and a bit of silicone, worked a treat on my old car and never had a single problem after!! Good luck

I have resoldered the 3 connections inside, I actually did all 6, which should have solved it, but it's not. I guess from your result it might be worth trying again.

nope
if its a dry weld it can strike at anytime usually once warmed up, alot of sensors also dont show signs of wear until they are put under large load i.e. unbuilt up full throttle (stamping your foot down when cruising) can cause missfires due to weak sensors not being able to handle the instant input but they will handle full throttle if its slowly built up:suspect:

This fault that happens to me can occur at any time, even within 5 mins after a cold start. But I have noticed the odd slow and a bit jumpy reaction with sudden changes with the throttle both stamping on it and takin my foot off.

So i'll re-resolder the connections in the throttlebody and keep my fingers crossed. I've got to fix it as I've had a few close calls in the past weeks pulling out of side roads stuck at 5mph 'till it kicks back in