N/A Screamer advice.

M

MickMannis

Hi everyone, I sold my old K11, And im just starting a new job next week which i dont have to drive too, So i have abit of time to save.

Im looking to make a k11 pre-face N/A screamer.

I was just wondering what model of K11 you guys would suggest. Im going for lightness over comfort.. e.g i dont need power steering and a/c and all that.

What model would you guys suggest? Im from N.Ireland And aint seen many super s's for sale over here, What is the next best thing?

I'll have around 800-1200 to spend of the car after its bought.

First thing ive planned is a few goodies from matt, Gas flowed head / aftermarket cams ect.

Other than that im not really sure what to go for, Different injectors, things like that?

Any advice would be appreciated, And links/pictures/prices would help to guys.

Thanks

Heres my old micra :glare:

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I'd go for the Super S if possible or the SR but some of these do have power steering, air con etc.

Other than that any 1.3, a lower spec 1.3 will have no mod cons. A 1.3 GX would probably do you nicely. You can even get them with colour coded bumpers too. But all 1.3s have the same engine, it's only small differences between them.
 
ollie240585 said:
I'd go for the Super S if possible or the SR but some of these do have power steering, air con etc.

Other than that any 1.3, a lower spec 1.3 will have no mod cons. A 1.3 GX would probably do you nicely. You can even get them with colour coded bumpers too. But all 1.3s have the same engine, it's only small differences between them.
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Thanks for the reply mate, Didn't know all 1.3's had the same engine.

Well GX sounds about right then, Super S bumpers are a straight swap with super s's, If i couldnt find colour coded ones?

Cheers

Adam
 
why prefacelift?????

go facelift but do the prefacelift front end conversion, that way you dont have to search endlessly for a good pre facelift shell
 
£800-1200 wont get you very far performance wise. Have you got any performance parts left over from your old Micra to give you a head start?
 
Get a 1.0 litre Shape (The complete base model, I've had two and they are bare essentials) for peanuts, then an SR20 donor car (Approx £300) and do the 2 litre conversion. 143bhp and a shedload of torque standard, then add SSAC manifold (£140) and a custom cat back (Around £200 for a good one).
It does require a bit of fabrication but nothing you couldnt do by learning the skills as you go along.
Swap the entire loom, ECU and key barrels out of the donor to avoid any wiring problems, and dont think about silly turbo or 4wd conversions until the base is done and running, this is where people fall down and get ahead of themselves. Run it on some 14" steelies with the GTi brakes up front, some stiffened suspension and the whiteline handling kit.
All can be done for less than a grand, guaranteed.
 
As proven by a few people on here in the past, an SR20 conversion is not as simple as you think and certainly cannot be done for less than £1000.

People have fallen into this trap in the past and failed.......aside from Dave Bull, no-one no here has made an SR20 conversion work, they have either had serious problems with finances and sold on, or has serious running issues from not doing it properly.

Admittedly Dave Bull did an SR20DET conversion which had a considerably larger budget but I expect he will tell you that trying to do it for less than £1000 is simply not realistic.

Appologies for diagreeing with you, but as a long standing MSC member I feel it's my duty to ensure only accurate information is conveyed on our forums :)
 
try removing the rev-limiter from a CG10, combined with the usual intake/exhaust mods and Matts worked head and cams it should really scream
 
Corbs said:
Get a 1.0 litre Shape (The complete base model, I've had two and they are bare essentials) for peanuts, then an SR20 donor car (Approx £300) and do the 2 litre conversion. 143bhp and a shedload of torque standard, then add SSAC manifold (£140) and a custom cat back (Around £200 for a good one).
It does require a bit of fabrication but nothing you couldnt do by learning the skills as you go along.
Swap the entire loom, ECU and key barrels out of the donor to avoid any wiring problems, and dont think about silly turbo or 4wd conversions until the base is done and running, this is where people fall down and get ahead of themselves. Run it on some 14" steelies with the GTi brakes up front, some stiffened suspension and the whiteline handling kit.
All can be done for less than a grand, guaranteed.
Click to expand...

less than a grand,your a dreamer,im up to a grand allready and have budgeted 3k

you cannot budget on this conversion, your running approx 150bhp in a tin can,everything has to be tip top, buy new if you can, or good 2nd hand parts, if your scrimp and scrape in the build process you will regret it when something goes horribly wrong at 130+mph

Low Rider said:
People have fallen into this trap in the past and failed.......aside from Dave Bull, no-one no here has made an SR20 conversion work
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hasnt kristian produced around 4+ of these???????????????
 
micramike86 said:
hasnt kristian produced around 4+ of these???????????????
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He may well have done, I know he was working on converting his widearch yellow K11 a while back but I've not seen anything for ages. I maybe mistaken but I haven't seen any photos.

Raceworx also put together a very nice looking facelift K11 with a redtop SR20 in it, got it idling on an aftermarket ecu and sold up :(

Anyway, that aside, it certainly cannot be done for the sort of money being talked about here, which is the point I am trying to convey.
 
Low Rider said:
He may well have done, I know he was working on converting his widearch yellow K11 a while back but I've not seen anything for ages. I maybe mistaken but I haven't seen any photos.

Raceworx also put together a very nice looking facelift K11 with a redtop SR20 in it, got it idling on an aftermarket ecu and sold up :(

It can be done but certainly not for the sort of money being talked about here.
Click to expand...

mate, kristian has made a few

you will find that alot of people dont like to share their info on sr20 or any kind of conversions on here because they just get shot down by nay sayers who can "talk" their way through an engine conversion but never actually done it, winds me up when people like that think they know everything but know jack tish, i actually did something about it and did a ga16de conversion into a k11, i put pics up on here to assist others but prats were more interested in whether i had insurance or not, now im on with an sr20de cherry top conversion, because i have the know how, its just a shame that other members dont want to "know how"

and i agree with the financial side of the conversion, 3 grand is an acceptable and realistic budget
 
Low Rider said:
He may well have done, I know he was working on converting his widearch yellow K11 a while back but I've not seen anything for ages. I maybe mistaken but I haven't seen any photos.

Raceworx also put together a very nice looking facelift K11 with a redtop SR20 in it, got it idling on an aftermarket ecu and sold up :(

Anyway, that aside, it certainly cannot be done for the sort of money being talked about here, which is the point I am trying to convey.
Click to expand...

the red one of raceworx's is now kristians yellow one, iirc
 
Thanks for the feed back guys.

For a start, Im not looking for do a engine swap, The police around my town are notorious for catching you out with a bigger engine than whats on the tax book, And being 19 im not gonna insure a 2.0 micra.

The rev limiter removal idea and gas flowed head and a.m cams seems about the best advice yet guys, Anything else ontop of this?

You guys think i should buy the 1.0 or 1.3 for a screamer?

Im thinkin 1.3 o_O
 
frank said:
mickmannis

for power, a 1.3, but for rev,s, deffo 1.0 (my 1.0 was really singing at near 9000 rpm :D )
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Not really for power as the 1.3 isnt really gonna blow my head off, Just want it to scream, Guess it will come down to whats for sale when i go to buy the project car.

Thanks for the advice frank
 
MickMannis said:
Not really for power as the 1.3 isnt really gonna blow my head off, Just want it to scream, Guess it will come down to whats for sale when i go to buy the project car.

Thanks for the advice frank
Click to expand...

surely it would be better to have a car that screems and has some power? 1.0 are very under powered, trust me, iv had both.
 
superls said:
the red one of raceworx's is now kristians yellow one, iirc
Click to expand...

Yup. Raceworx sold up because he shelled out for driveshafts rather than having them cut and welded, and put the fuel line on backwards, thought the ecu was ######ed, and shelled out for the standalone management, ran out of money, then realised his mistake and got fed up with it. His conversion (Bar the driveshafts and engine management) cost less than £1000 and was so near to completion. For the record it wasnt a 'redtop' SR20 just a standard almera GTi engine with a ported head (I know because I now own this engine). He could have saved a lot of time by using the engine as was but instead stripped it down and rebuilt it.
Dave Bulls cost lots of money because he had 400hp.
So many people run out of steam by trying to be too clever with it!

At the same time, Raceworx then bought his blue CG13DE micra, fitted janspeed manifold, cat back exhaust, aggressive cams, GA16DE injectors, D2coilovers and whiteline handling kit and made one of the most volatile K11s ever. The thing could keep up with scoobys and evos (Standard ones obviously) through the twisties. When he took a friend of mine who owns a 350hp pulsar out in it, the guy couldnt believe a FWD car could have so much grip!
So really 2 ways of doing the same thing, but if people who have already done the 2 litre conversion say not to then its up to you if you want to try or not.
 
Corbs said:
Yup. Raceworx sold up because he shelled out for driveshafts rather than having them cut and welded, and put the fuel line on backwards, thought the ecu was ######ed, and shelled out for the standalone management, ran out of money, then realised his mistake and got fed up with it. His conversion (Bar the driveshafts and engine management) cost less than £1000 and was so near to completion. For the record it wasnt QUOTE]

but nobody in their right mind is going to cut and shut driveshafts for an sr20 conversion,that would be silly,in my eyes they are a necessity, also so is the daiyama suspension, so theres well over a grand already

and i think i now have the driveshafts off raceworx micra, not 100% though, bought them off kristian last week

stand alone management is a money grabbing gimmick, pointless when standard ecu's can be used
Click to expand...
 
Corbs said:
Dave Bull did on little bandit, he snapped a few but thats understandable with over 350 brake.
Click to expand...
Hell the Primera GT can snap its driveshafts if you spin it up in the dry (i've had to be very careful with mine) so it's no surprise Dave was snapping them!
 
i would pick the 1.3Lx

it is as basic as you can get in pre facelift but still have the 1.3 engine. they can be stripped out to be nice and light and still look like a sleeper too
 
in the next month or so im building a cg13 into an n/a screamer to fit into my k10.

the head is going to be port polished ect, going to be ran on bike carbs, wild cam, uprated valve springs and a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold should do the trick, hoping to see around 7-8k rpm mark.

btw does the the cg13 use solid or hydraulic tappets?
 
RTLkyuubi said:
in the next month or so im building a cg13 into an n/a screamer to fit into my k10.

the head is going to be port polished ect, going to be ran on bike carbs, wild cam, uprated valve springs and a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold should do the trick, hoping to see around 7-8k rpm mark.

btw does the the cg13 use solid or hydraulic tappets?
Click to expand...

you will have to modify the dizzy and the ecu map to make it rev that high or it will just bounce off the limiter
 

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