my si :)

S

Spike11

hi guys i would love to say im new to the micra world but im not im on my second my first was a 1ltr vibe and all i done to tha was an air filter and alloys. My new micra is a 1999 1.3 si :D which i very happy with but i do need some ideas and advice on what to do its already got and air filterwhich i hate lol and it has all chrome bits painted black it has a de cat back system by prospeed and black alloys just looking for some ideas thanks :) let me kno what you think

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Hey, you stole my colour :laugh:. But welcome though, good choice of car (especially the colour) (Y).

So much you can do to these - de-bumpstrip, pre-facelift tailgate handle, open mouth upper and lower grill, lower it, new backbox (something like Ashley or Sportex), window tints, raised bonnet, 4-2-1 or 4-1 manifold, 1.6 injectors, induction kit with cold air feed, tinted lights all round and inside rim of headlights sprayed black, front and rear upper strut braces, adjustable panhard rods, aftermarket steering wheel, new gear knob/gaiter, new handbrake handle, new head unit, 6x9s, front splitter.............................................

The list is pretty much endless :grinning:
 
yer i kno i been reading your blog sweet i must say but aint yours a 1ltr? and i cant de rub strip cos i think its had paint on the one side so too afraid to remove them lol it has got a full exhaust system aprt from manifold sounds rather nice i must say :) window tints are in the line to be done and i hate the air filter so i want either a standard one or a almera one. already got a head unit in it and red db audio 6x9's :grinning: and i wouldnt mind spraying the headlights how hard are they to seperate? oh and btw im from south wales so i doubt you seen me around dundee lol
 
Yes, unfortunately it is only a 1.0l. But I might be doing an engine swap later in the year, or getting a 1.3 SR and tuning that a lot. Well the bumpstrips do look okay colour coded (Y). And a manifold would improve the power, and means you can do away with the first cat. Then just get a decat pipe for the second cat, like I've done :grinning:. Window tints look mint, just make sure you don't get any air bubbles or creases :laugh:. I like my cone air filter and cold air feed, but aparently you get more power from a standard airbox with a K&N panel filter. And check out my blog for how to do the headlights, I'll update it so it says how (Y)
 
haa i have got a de-cat already so its only the first one to go :) may just see if i can knock it through and yer may get the tints done properly and cheers for the head light thing :) and youll have to find tha copy cat and kill him lol
 
Aha, that's cool. A new manifold will just bolt straight onto the decat pipe. Careful gutting the first cat though, they tend to "weld" themselves together because of the rust they get. Plus you don't get as nice a sound from a gutted cat as you do from just completely getting rid of it
 
Apparently, the best way to go seems to be 4-1 or 4-2-1 manifold, Almera airbox with K&N panel filter, bigger bore bacbox, and a Janspeed sports cat. Gives the best sound and fuel economy, while being better for MOTs, especially if you retain the lambda sensor. Mine is awful at the moment, and it's going to fail its MOT as well, I'm sure :laugh:
 
Well at the mo It's got a 2 inch pipe (I think ) goin into a 3 and a half inch rolled out back box but I do have the standard cat to go back in for mot and why is yours goin to fail lol
 
Spike11 said:
why is yours goin to fail lol
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Because I have a 4-1 decat manifold, decat pipe (but no replacement cat), 2" Ashley midpipe, 2" Jap style backbox with 4" outlet, heat proof exhaust wrap from manifold to backbox, cone filter, 1.3 fuel rail/injectors, and a disconnected lambda sensor. It bangs like a shotgun on overrun or when I redline it because I've set my fuel pressure regulator to run slightly rich as well. I guess I'll have to find a friendly MOT garage that will "accidentally" put the sensor up the tailpipe of the car in the next bay :laugh:
 
micra_dan said:
Because I have a 4-1 decat manifold, decat pipe (but no replacement cat), 2" Ashley midpipe, 2" Jap style backbox with 4" outlet, heat proof exhaust wrap from manifold to backbox, cone filter, 1.3 fuel rail/injectors, and a disconnected lambda sensor. It bangs like a shotgun on overrun or when I redline it because I've set my fuel pressure regulator to run slightly rich as well. I guess I'll have to find a friendly MOT garage that will "accidentally" put the sensor up the tailpipe of the car in the next bay :laugh:
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Why in the hell have you unplugged the lambda?? You don't want your car to run rich it looses power! Your not running anywhere near enough to need to worry about det! Your basically making your car slower, more polluting, #### on fuel?? Why not to mention the chance of bore wash, knackaring plugs, blocking up the exhaust!
A car runs best at stoich you seem to be doing your up most to kill it
 
gtsnissanb said:
Why in the hell have you unplugged the lambda?? You don't want your car to run rich it looses power! Your not running anywhere near enough to need to worry about det! Your basically making your car slower, more polluting, #### on fuel?? Why not to mention the chance of bore wash, knackaring plugs, blocking up the exhaust!
A car runs best at stoich you seem to be doing your up most to kill it
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2 of the connectors on the sensor are broken, and I'm missing the seal that does inside it. Plus I think the rubber on the outside of one of the wires has snapped. Just haven't had a chance to replace it yet, so I've got no choice but to leave it disconnected. I only run it rich when I go to my local car cruises, just haven't had a chance to adjust is back. And I recently bought new plugs, so surely I don't need to worry about them? It doesn't feel sluggish at all
 
micra_dan said:
2 of the connectors on the sensor are broken, and I'm missing the seal that does inside it. Plus I think the rubber on the outside of one of the wires has snapped. Just haven't had a chance to replace it yet, so I've got no choice but to leave it disconnected. I only run it rich when I go to my local car cruises, just haven't had a chance to adjust is back. And I recently bought new plugs, so surely I don't need to worry about them? It doesn't feel sluggish at all
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An overly rich car will not produce as much power as a car at stoich FACT you are most definitely not sucking in enough air to make the car run lean, so the fuel system mods you've made are just going to run it rich. Hence the popping on over run! You need the right AFR you can't just guess these things it only needs to be richer to prevent det
You won't have to worry about the plugs no if you don't mind changing them very regularly
 
gtsnissanb said:
An overly rich car will not produce as much power as a car at stoich FACT you are most definitely not sucking in enough air to make the car run lean, so the fuel system mods you've made are just going to run it rich. Hence the popping on over run!
You won't have to worry about the plugs no if you don't mind changing them very regularly
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Like I said, it only pops on overrun when I adjust the fuel pressure regulator. If I run it normally, it doesn't pop, and I actually get half decent mpg out of it. And as for spark plugs - I can get them for free, so I'm not worried about having to change them regularly
 
micra_dan said:
Like I said, it only pops on overrun when I adjust the fuel pressure regulator. If I run it normally, it doesn't pop, and I actually get half decent mpg out of it. And as for spark plugs - I can get them for free, so I'm not worried about having to change them regularly
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You obviously had a faulty lambda meaning you never had experience of it running right
You can't say unplugging the lambda will make your bone stock engine run better when all you have in the way of afr increase is the air box which the lambda would notice and alter the ecus fueling accordingly the mods you've done have taken the control away from the ecu which trust me knows better about fuel pressure and afr and now are running the car rich which is not good it's potentially deadly to a engine! Get it on a dyno get the AFR checked
I'm not being funny with you mate but things go very wrong with cars very fast I've built enough engines to know this

It makes me laugh as I've said in the past about the tards that stick resistors in their ect sensor, the Internet tells you more fuel=more power so you buy these things! But it's not the case there is more to combustion than fuel and go!
 
i had to unplug my lambda to prevent it from bogging down at 3krpm. dyno run proved that i gained nearly 15lbs/ft under 4000rpm. the rest of the rev range was sweet as a nut. but the car would just not rev cleanly with it plugged in and would smell "hot " all the time.....
 
Antony said:
i had to unplug my lambda to prevent it from bogging down at 3krpm. dyno run proved that i gained nearly 15lbs/ft under 4000rpm. the rest of the rev range was sweet as a nut. but the car would just not rev cleanly with it plugged in and would smell "hot " all the time.....
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If the lambda was dodgy yeah it would
Was this in a Micra or a turbo car? Because 15lb of torque is alot for an NA to gain from simply richening up the mixture
On a turbo car that's probably running lean the richening up would cool the pistons stopping det and upping power
 
gtsnissanb said:
You obviously had a faulty lambda meaning you never had experience of it running right
You can't say unplugging the lambda will make your bone stock engine run better when all you have in the way of afr increase is the air box which the lambda would notice and alter the ecus fueling accordingly the mods you've done have taken the control away from the ecu which trust me knows better about fuel pressure and afr and now are running the car rich which is not good it's potentially deadly to a engine! Get it on a dyno get the AFR checked
I'm not being funny with you mate but things go very wrong with cars very fast I've built enough engines to know this

It makes me laugh as I've said in the past about the tards that stick resistors in their ect sensor, the Internet tells you more fuel=more power so you buy these things! But it's not the case there is more to combustion than fuel and go!
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I'm not saying it runs better, but I did notice a slight change when I ran it with the lambda sensor uneplugged. When it was plugged in, it wasn't really sluggish in any way. Then it started to feal like it was running pretty lean, so I unplugged the sensor to check and make sure everything was ok with it. That was when I noticed one of the wires was snapped, and when I unplugged, I saw that 2 of the connectors were bent slightly. Tried to push them back, and they snapped. So now I have to run with it unplugged until I get a new one. I did think about putting an Almera airbox back in, but it feels like I'm getting more from my cone filter and cold air feed.

I daresay I'll end up getting it dyno'd when I get 1.3 cams and skim the head, just to be safe, an maybe a re-map if I can afford it.

Also, I think we'd better stop clogging up Spike's thread :wasntme:
 
micra_dan said:
I'm not saying it runs better, but I did notice a slight change when I ran it with the lambda sensor uneplugged. When it was plugged in, it wasn't really sluggish in any way. Then it started to feal like it was running pretty lean, so I unplugged the sensor to check and make sure everything was ok with it. That was when I noticed one of the wires was snapped, and when I unplugged, I saw that 2 of the connectors were bent slightly. Tried to push them back, and they snapped. So now I have to run with it unplugged until I get a new one. I did think about putting an Almera airbox back in, but it feels like I'm getting more from my cone filter and cold air feed.

I daresay I'll end up getting it dyno'd when I get 1.3 cams and skim the head, just to be safe, an maybe a re-map if I can afford it.
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When the cams go in and the heads skimmed an increase in fuel will be more relevant ;)
As running higher CR increases your risk of det so I'd imagine if you don't want to retard the ignition then your going to need higher octane fuel and more of it to keep it all cool and handle the longer duration and lift from the 1300 cams ;)
 
micra_dan said:
Also, I think we'd better stop clogging up Spike's thread :wasntme:
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Yes we seem to be doing this allot recently think we need our own discussion thread lol

One last thing the dyno thing I'm not sure of your location but I've been trying to sort a dyno day at my mate garage in Wirral for the club but last time I posted it up got no interest so had to tell them to cancel it if i got enough interest I'd ask him again :)
 
gtsnissanb said:
Yes we seem to be doing this allot recently think we need our own discussion thread lol

One last thing the dyno thing I'm not sure of your location but I've been trying to sort a dyno day at my mate garage in Wirral for the club but last time I posted it up got no interest so had to tell them to cancel it if i got enough interest I'd ask him again :)

When the cams go in and the heads skimmed an increase in fuel will be more relevant ;)
As running higher CR increases your risk of det so I'd imagine if you don't want to retard the ignition then your going to need higher octane fuel and more of it to keep it all cool and handle the longer duration and lift from the 1300 cams ;)
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I might make up a new thread for it soon then, just to see what people say. And you're probably a bit too far for me.

Aha, so when I fit the cams, I'll need an increase in fuel anyway, which should make it run better? Along with maybe a second cold air feed, and running on 97 octane fuel instead of 95?

Sorry Spike :wasntme:
 
micra_dan said:
I might make up a new thread for it soon then, just to see what people say. And you're probably a bit too far for me.

Aha, so when I fit the cams, I'll need an increase in fuel anyway, which should make it run better? Along with maybe a second cold air feed, and running on 97 octane fuel instead of 95?

Sorry Spike :wasntme:
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I'd get the thread started lol and just copy and paste today's conversations that'll give you a few pages
Tesco 99 or shell optimax/ultimax or what ever name they give their 99 Ron stuff are the best and cost the same as bp97 stuff
 
Spike11 said:
its fine guys been an interesting read tbh lol but thanks for thinkin of me dan lol
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Well like gtsnissanb says, we do it quite a lot :laugh:. But I've started a new thread for it anyway, just trying not to clog your thread up with unrelated posts :laugh: (Y).

Got anything else lined up for your Micra?
 
It looks alright without putting mesh in there (I haven't worked out the best/most secure way to mesh mine yet), but they do have to be smoothed off properly or they just look tatty. Which reminds me, I need to tidy mine up while I've still got some black spray paint left over :laugh:.

But I think mesh only looks good on the pre-facelift grills, or if you cut the middle bit of the facelift bonnet out to make it open mouthed fwn
 
thats a bit much for me to end up cuttin the bonnet im thinkin about smoothin the front and rear bumpers after i lower it and get some super lights in 14 inch maybe :D
 
Superlites are lush. I was going to get some, but went for my Calibres instead. Couldn't find any decent black Superlites, and didn't want to go through the hassle of respraying them. Maybe when I get my SR or Super S though, then I might get some :grinning:
 
Big ££££ for a really good quality set with tyres though, saw some go on eBay for like £800. I paid less than that for mine, and they were brand new :eek:
 
oh happy days lol a mate of mine give me a banzai mag last nite and there was a micra in there the same colour as ours and its quite similar yours its mint fair play ill take a foto and upload it :)
 
Mine could be a lot better, there's a lot of scratches, stone chips, scrapes, tiny dents, scuffs, a sizeable dent on the rear passenger wing, and quite a bit of rust that needs sorting out as well
 
yer like i said the passenger side of mine looks like its had paint and fill but dunno how bad damage was before oh well she still does the trick :)
 

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