my k10 stalling and revving up, help

hello everyone, I'm Kardo from Netherlands, i have a k10 micra 1989 (1.2 ) which has a problem hope i can find some solution here also thanks in advance for all of you.
The engine runs fine from cold but after a couple of minutes, the engine dies but i don't have any problem with starting it again:grinning: when stopping at junctions the engine stalls and dies, also when, for example, changing down a gear and accelerating onto a roundabout, it also temporarily tries to stall but then picks back up.
also it revs very high, (when the engine is hot) no matter in gear or natural and its drinking petrol like a demon.
last week I've changed the carburetor but still the same:(
I'm going to change the dizzy cap, the rotor and the vacuum pipes

I've used some wd40 on the carb while the engine running but no success, Any ideas what could be wrong? I would like to keep the car if i can, rather than just send it off to the junkyard.

Thanks

Kardo
 
even though youve changed the carb, it sounds like the auto choke is playing up. But check vacuum pipes and ignition timing 1st.
 
OK, I have had this problem 2 times before and the first time it was because of a damaged spark plug. So before spending any money, remove the spark plugs and check the ceramic insulator around the electrode in the centre. If there is just a tiny crack in the ceramic it will be split open by the very high temperatures and stop working.
The second time I had this problem it was because my exhaust was leaking at the front.

You mentioned revving, there is a chance that the mixture is too weak, so when the car is cold and the choke is on it has more fuel going into the engine and can drive, but when the choke turns off the mixture becomes too weak again and the engine stalls.
Also check that the vacuum pipe that plugs into the bottom of the air box is not leaking and that the bi-metal valve inside the air box (that controls it) is not stuck open. With that pipe open the mixture is very weak and the engine will struggle to run.
If the choke was the problem then you would have difficulty starting the engine from cold and it would not affect the engine when warm. So I don’t think that the choke is the problem in your case.

Is there any chance you can put up a photo of your engine bay? Also are you using a 1.2L carburettor or a 1.0L carburettor?
 
If the choke was stuck open it would run mega rich drink fuel and rev it's balls off! As said if it's just not coming on then from cold startup would have a problem once warm would be fine. Have you switched the inlet setting to winter so It will take warm air from the manifold? Also dizzy caps tend to leak at this Time of year due to the cold freezing tiny water drops that seep inside expanding and cracking the dizzy cap. I'd check all that lot cap arm etc spray alittle wd 40 in the leads and dizzy clean everything up see if it's any better.
Also plugs leads the basic checks
When removing the plugs check the ends if there black/wet you got some overturning on your hands
Check the air filter also this can cause over fueling
 
thanks for your responds,
ye, porkpie you right i will replace the spark plugs and check the insulators and let you know,
i've red many posts in this forum and other forums regarding the stalling problem but in my case is stalls and revvs at the same time like ( it revvs very high when i drive and when i slow or stop it stalls and die):(
it's Very confusing,
here are some photos:
111210143232.jpg


111210143155.jpg


111210143134.jpg
 
WTF is that under the airbox mine ain't got that? Pardon my ignorance saying that mines a 1 litre is it some kind of radiator inlet heater or something
 
UPDATE....UPDATE..
hi every1
today I've replaced spark plugs, dizzy cap and the rotor, also i spent 10 - 15 minutes spraying plenty of DW40 on the carburettor, guess what, it's the same !!
after i took out the first plug, I said to myself " thats it , i got it" the plugs were BLACK and very dirty, so i thought this may be the cause .
but after I changed the plugs, dizzy cap and the rotor, i took the car on the motorway for a drive, in some way it's worse, when i take my foot off the pedal, car hesitating or jumping (even on motorway) grr, the high revving still there (after engine gets hot):down: and every time i slow or stop the engine dies, but strangely when cold i dont have these problems,
but i'm still not finished, i've bought the vacuum pipes & fuel pipes , also i don't think this will sort the problem but i really don't know what else can be done. please help ...

ANYONE GOOD WITH SPARK PLUG READINGS?
112310135135.jpg


112310135031.jpg


and when i disconnect these (while engine running) nothing changes! is that normal?
112310134804.jpg
 
plugs look like you are running a little rich. about the disconnecting, did you try to drive the car with it disconnected?
i see you got the late EGR engine, sounds like the vacuum lines or that little black box with the line going to the inlet (normally on dizzy) is faulty. forgot what its called
 
plugs look like you are running a little rich. about the disconnecting, did you try to drive the car with it disconnected?
i see you got the late EGR engine, sounds like the vacuum lines or that little black box with the line going to the inlet (normally on dizzy) is faulty. forgot what its called

hi mckenziecz & thanks for your respond.
no i didn't drive with disconneted wires , do you think its not drivable with disconneted wires?
i am going to change all the vacuum lines soon, hope that sort it out.
about the little black box. do you mean the one next to the bonnet spring?
 
thats just what i would check first. hope you didnt play with the carb adjustment.
i dont think it would drive without the wires but would be stalling. Yes that box next to the bonnet spring is what i meant.
try to wait for the the fan to kick in or turn on the light on high beam and see if the idle changes or the car stalls. if so then there is somethings wrong with the vacuum lines me thinks
 
cant see anything about this but, have you replaced the fuel filter?

Also im sure that on my super s which had the EGR engine, when i pulled one of those plugs on the side of the air pan (or mabe both) the engine should cut out as these go to solenoids inside the carburettor, one fuel solenoid and one choke i think
 
hi imp124 & thanks
i've checked the fuel filter it seems ok, also the Boost sensor is the next for 2morrow if i can find one in junkyard (here in Netherland you rarely see any k10's in junkyards) don't know why?
 
The engine should stall and not run at all when the plug on the left of the airbox (fanbelt side) is disconnected. That plug is for the anti-dieselling valve which prevents the engine from running after turning the ignition off (it does other things too but i would have to read the manual to remind myself :p).

The plugs are sooty black which means that your engine is running with too much fuel. There is an excellent on-line manual for the 1.2 ECC MA12 engine, which is what you have.
Here's the link;
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/7742/23795-2

It will take a few mins to load up because there is a lot there, so just take an hour to look through the carb section and just check things out. I think you may have a stuck mechanism or a build up of dirt that is causing an over rich mixture.

Oh, the little black box is called the "Carbon Canister" which makes up part of what is called the "Evaporative Emission Control System". It's job is to collect fuel vapours and then inject them into the engine to burn them off, to stop the car smelling of fuel.
Anyone out there who has a 1L micra will know how they tend to stink of petrol when the engine gets hot. The carbon canister stops that from happening, the exact same part is used on the K11 micra too and does exactly the same job.
 
hi again
today i've been driving the micra witout that "Boost sensor" and i noticed no change . but some thing i noticed which i think is not normal. the pipe from the boost sensor is blocked!! here is a picture can explain more ( sorry my English is not good)

111210143232.jpg
 
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