Miles Per Tank

Ihtisham Rauf

Ihtisham Rauf

How many miles are people getting per tank of fuel? On my last measurement, I did 230 miles from 30 litres, which is only around 35mpg and its starting to break the wallet :/

Would be nice to see what others are getting from their modded/unmodded, mapped/unmapped etc K11's.

Btw, by full tank, I mean around 35 litres - I have read in the manual that the tank capacity is 42 litres, but even though there was this one time when I drove 20 miles with the fuel light on, I still only managed to put 35 litres in, so have no idea where the remaining 7 litres capacity has gone...
 
35 MPG is within the lower ball park typical performance envelope.

Typical mixed local defensive driving achieves nominal 45-49 MPG in my stock 1998 1300cc K11.

Too many variables to make statistically valid comparisons of nominal & real life values of MPG & or KM/litre.

Frequent winter time cold start-ups, mostly short journeys across town, driving style, tyres type/pressures/tracking/fuel grade/ brakes binding & vehicle condition make disproportionately large differences rendering direct comparison indeterminate. Wide wheels (fatties) add weight increase rolling resistance, plus performance mods waste energy & fuel.

I have achieved 63 MPG on a 325 mile summer time round trip driving at steady grand granny 50 MPH on M-way & A roads using cheap supermarket UL fuel. Thats good enough for me. ;)

Reference; https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/1-3-k11-mpg.59723/
 
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I have one of these that I worked out from a few years ago.

did 549.2 miles on 63.35 litres

equivalent MPG is 39.41 miles per gallon, at the time costing an average of 12 pence per mile, mostly motorways, dual carriageways and A-roads and I was going fast

Best mpg I ever got (in the same car) was 55mpg over 220 miles, which was entirely motorway but less hills and I was taking it easy
 
35 mpg? I converted it using UK gallons but I guess that wouldn't matter much, that is only 12,4 kilometers per liter. I get this with a SR20DE and a heavy foot. (But no faster then 100 tom tom kilometres anywhere) and for my Micra I have a 1.6 but it's thermostat was gone and it's lambda is slow and working for about 40% and it's MAF is worn and it smokes like if it is in hell.

019-bezinedamp.png


This gives me semi heavy footed but still no more then 100 tom tom kilometres, 13,4 kilometres per liter which is converted to UK gallon 37.8 mpg.

Something is wrong there. For an engine with no drivabillity issues main concerns are MAF and lambda. If you have EGR you might want to look in to that but I can not give you figures of how much that would help.

Keep in mind my Micra is 1.6 but still close to 38 mpg. It's engine never got warm, lambda close to dead as a dodo and MAF, worn. The reason I wrote this, the engine temperature also but MAF and lambda in the first place makes an Euro norm 1 engine (catalyzer) suffer fuel economy. I happen to have a scrap car without lambda but with MAF and it just runs lean and fuel economy didn't suffer much (400 metres per liter according to the figures I have here on two similar engines). Having a lambda isn't helpful for fuel economy is what my continously measuring over the years gave as an answer. Best to have the original one in a new state but that is another story.
 
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I get 220 / 230 for a full tank £36 ish I always thought it was a bit heavy on the petrol, though i do zero motorway miles as I work out in the rural country side
 
richardwbb said:
35 mpg? I converted it using UK gallons but I guess that wouldn't matter much, that is only 12,4 kilometers per liter. I get this with a SR20DE and a heavy foot. (But no faster then 100 tom tom kilometres anywhere) and for my Micra I have a 1.6 but it's thermostat was gone and it's lambda is slow and working for about 40% and it's MAF is worn and it smokes like if it is in hell.

019-bezinedamp.png


This gives me semi heavy footed but still no more then 100 tom tom kilometres, 13,4 kilometres per liter which is converted to UK gallon 37.8 mpg.

Something is wrong there. For an engine with no drivabillity issues main concerns are MAF and lambda. If you have EGR you might want to look in to that but I can not give you figures of how much that would help.

Keep in mind my Micra is 1.6 but still close to 38 mpg. It's engine never got warm, lambda close to dead as a dodo and MAF, worn. The reason I wrote this, the engine temperature also but MAF and lambda in the first place makes an Euro norm 1 engine (catalyzer) suffer fuel economy. I happen to have a scrap car without lambda but with MAF and it just runs lean and fuel economy didn't suffer much (400 metres per liter according to the figures I have here on two similar engines). Having a lambda isn't helpful for fuel economy is what my continously measuring over the years gave as an answer. Best to have the original one in a new state but that is another story.
Click to expand...

You could get climate change Carbon Credits for driving that? :eek:
 
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I get 40/45mpg 400 miles from a tank full , 8ltrs (£10 ) gets from 66 to 80 miles roughly , ATM my fuel gauge is been a bit weird cause the old battery shat it's self and new one it's been stuck on the same place in the lower red for a while but only done 45miles , cold doesn't help then really

Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
HaidhurK11 said:
I'm getting 28mpg ? I got 224 miles today on a full tank (36 litres). I have no idea why as I don't drive aggressive at all. Probably needs new tyres as the rear ones are nearly done.
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Hmm that’s quite low, especially if you’re saying you don’t drive aggressively.

Even with aggressive driving, my 1.0 would get 260 miles, and normal driving 320 miles.

Make sure your tyres are inflated to correct pressure.

If you carry heavy loads on a regular basis, then I guess 224 would make some sense.
 
Ihtisham Rauf said:
Hmm that’s quite low, especially if you’re saying you don’t drive aggressively.

Even with aggressive driving, my 1.0 would get 260 miles, and normal driving 320 miles.

Make sure your tyres are inflated to correct pressure.

If you carry heavy loads on a regular basis, then I guess 224 would make some sense.
Click to expand...

I don't, it's just normally 1 passenger and that's it. And what tyre pressure are you running. I have 36PSI at the front and 35 at the back
 
HaidhurK11 said:
I don't, it's just normally 1 passenger and that's it. And what tyre pressure are you running. I have 36PSI at the front and 35 at the back
Click to expand...

I've just realised I've seen your FB profile before, your car photography is sickk!

I run 35 front, 32 back and that's with 2-3 passengers on a regular basis.

Yours sound like their overinflated but I have heard overinflated tyres actually help fuel economy, so not sure whats going on with your engine.

The correct tyre pressures are written on the drivers door sill btw.
 
Ihtisham Rauf said:
I've just realised I've seen your FB profile before, your car photography is sickk!

I run 35 front, 32 back and that's with 2-3 passengers on a regular basis.

Yours sound like their overinflated but I have heard overinflated tyres actually help fuel economy, so not sure whats going on with your engine.

The correct tyre pressures are written on the drivers door sill btw.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate! Appreciate it

That's the max tyre pressure that's stated on the door sill. I think the car may need a spark plugs change as I've changed everything else just haven't got to the spark plugs. It could also run rich due to the freezing weather in the U.K.

I also might need to check if the brakes are binding as that apparently gives worse fuel economy. So I'll start to check on those few things and then see if that improves my mpg.
 
HaidhurK11 said:
Thanks mate! Appreciate it

That's the max tyre pressure that's stated on the door sill. I think the car may need a spark plugs change as I've changed everything else just haven't got to the spark plugs. It could also run rich due to the freezing weather in the U.K.

I also might need to check if the brakes are binding as that apparently gives worse fuel economy. So I'll start to check on those few things and then see if that improves my mpg.
Click to expand...

They all seem like sensible starting points, good luck with it pal.
 
I'm in the process to get my Micra from 28 mpg to 38 mpg (current), aiming for 42 and hoping for 47.

There are a couple of things inside the engine that have great influence. My Micra came with a bad lambda, MAF and thermostat.

A new thermostat gave 10 mpg. If your temperature meter comes up slow with this weather that is a sign it is leaking. An ecu that thinks a engine is not warm will inject more fuel then it can burn that can be 10 mpg but then your meter won't go up and your heater only starts working barely after 15 miles.

If the MAF is worn it can give a voltage where the ecu thinks there is a lot more air going in. Then the ecu will inject more fuel. This fuel can not be burnt because there is not enough air.

If the lambda is worn the ecu fails to aim for stoichiometric and might inject more fuel then needed.

Also a bad ignition which usually is a worn rotor and cap (there big loss of spark energy occurs) and really really worn sparks.

If your exhaust leaks somewhere near the lambda that also will let the ecu inject more fuel.

Bad fuel economy means that more fuel is injected then necessary for reasons where I believe I told you the ones that are the most heavy on mpg or your engine gets good fuel but the ignition fails to ignite it.
 
richardwbb said:
I'm in the process to get my Micra from 28 mpg to 38 mpg (current), aiming for 42 and hoping for 47.

There are a couple of things inside the engine that have great influence. My Micra came with a bad lambda, MAF and thermostat.

A new thermostat gave 10 mpg. If your temperature meter comes up slow with this weather that is a sign it is leaking. An ecu that thinks a engine is not warm will inject more fuel then it can burn that can be 10 mpg but then your meter won't go up and your heater only starts working barely after 15 miles.

If the MAF is worn it can give a voltage where the ecu thinks there is a lot more air going in. Then the ecu will inject more fuel. This fuel can not be burnt because there is not enough air.

If the lambda is worn the ecu fails to aim for stoichiometric and might inject more fuel then needed.

Also a bad ignition which usually is a worn rotor and cap (there big loss of spark energy occurs) and really really worn sparks.

If your exhaust leaks somewhere near the lambda that also will let the ecu inject more fuel.

Bad fuel economy means that more fuel is injected then necessary for reasons where I believe I told you the ones that are the most heavy on mpg or your engine gets good fuel but the ignition fails to ignite it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice @richardwbb. I think for me it might be the MAF as when the car is idling the car seems as if it revs abit then goes down. However, the rev gauge looks stationary when it's on idle so I don't know if this is actually true. Any ideas?
 
Do you have a OBD or OBDII Micra HaidhurkK11? This is so much easier to see with Datascan. Datascan doesn't have to be expensive and the adapters aren't expensive.

Another route is to just replace the MAF but if your lambda is worn also (they tend to after 100 - 150 k miles) it might still run rich.

Datascan will tell you if your engine is running rich or not and deciding what to replace from there might be cheaper in the end.
 
richardwbb said:
Do you have a OBD or OBDII Micra HaidhurkK11? This is so much easier to see with Datascan. Datascan doesn't have to be expensive and the adapters aren't expensive.

Another route is to just replace the MAF but if your lambda is worn also (they tend to after 100 - 150 k miles) it might still run rich.

Datascan will tell you if your engine is running rich or not and deciding what to replace from there might be cheaper in the end.
Click to expand...

That's a great suggestion. I'll probably order a ob2 scanner this weekend and see if there are any problem.

Thanks
 
It can be easy but it can be hard with Datascan. The output has to be read by someone who knows what is going on there. I can be of help though but you also will need some knowledge about combustion to start with. Also you need some experience (because some output are just numbers) and telling if a injector timing is long (fuel loss) or short (good fuel use) is a matter of comparison and asking around.

But you also will see the differences when the new MAF has been placed, heck you could even put back the old MAF to make sure what you saw is correct.

That is the way I learned it, a lot of part swapping, test driving and reading all of EF & EC in the field service manual. Datascan website gives a good read too, you probably will be interested while not having Datascan at all.
 
HaidhurK11 said:
Thanks for the advice @richardwbb. I think for me it might be the MAF as when the car is idling the car seems as if it revs abit then goes down. However, the rev gauge looks stationary when it's on idle so I don't know if this is actually true. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

A good test for a bad MAF is if you let it idle, especially on a cold engine, and very quickly blip the throttle and lift off straight away. If the MAF is bad, then the revs should go up initially but then drop to really low levels like 450-500rpm, which will make the car very shaky and may even intiate a stall.

My MAF got so bad that when the car was idling, if I just adjusted the heater control speed, it would stall the engine lol!
 
Ihtisham Rauf said:
A good test for a bad MAF is if you let it idle, especially on a cold engine, and very quickly blip the throttle and lift off straight away. If the MAF is bad, then the revs should go up initially but then drop to really low levels like 450-500rpm, which will make the car very shaky and may even intiate a stall.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good idea, but I doubt that my car will go 500rpm as when the engine is cold is idles at 1000-1200rpm and when it's warm its around 700-750rpm
 
HaidhurK11 said:
Sounds like a good idea, but I doubt that my car will go 500rpm as when the engine is cold is idles at 1000-1200rpm and when it's warm its around 700-750rpm
Click to expand...

Yes exactly, but with a bad MAF, the engine can't calculate what revs to stabilise at. And so just quick blip of throttle will 'confuse' it, and it will end up dropping the revs too much (because its not getting correct signals from MAF).

If the MAF is good, then it should do exactly as you say - 'idles at 1000-1200rpm and when it's warm its around 700-750rpm'
 
Ihtisham Rauf said:
Yes exactly, but with a bad MAF, the engine can't calculate what revs to stabilise at. And so just quick blip of throttle will confuse it, and it will end up dropping the revs too much (because its not getting correct signals from MAF).

If the MAF is good, then it should do exactly as you say - 'idles at 1000-1200rpm and when it's warm its around 700-750rpm'
Click to expand...

Ok thanks for the suggestion @Ihtisham Rauf. I'll try that tomorrow morning and let you know what happens
 
Ihtisham Rauf said:
Yes exactly, but with a bad MAF, the engine can't calculate what revs to stabilise at. And so just quick blip of throttle will 'confuse' it, and it will end up dropping the revs too much (because its not getting correct signals from MAF).

If the MAF is good, then it should do exactly as you say - 'idles at 1000-1200rpm and when it's warm its around 700-750rpm'
Click to expand...

Update: I this it this morning and I don't think the MAF is bad as I quickly blipped the thorttle when on cold start and it settled back to 1200rpm
 
richardwbb said:
I'm in the process to get my Micra from 28 mpg to 38 mpg (current), aiming for 42 and hoping for 47.

There are a couple of things inside the engine that have great influence. My Micra came with a bad lambda, MAF and thermostat.

A new thermostat gave 10 mpg. If your temperature meter comes up slow with this weather that is a sign it is leaking. An ecu that thinks a engine is not warm will inject more fuel then it can burn that can be 10 mpg but then your meter won't go up and your heater only starts working barely after 15 miles.

If the MAF is worn it can give a voltage where the ecu thinks there is a lot more air going in. Then the ecu will inject more fuel. This fuel can not be burnt because there is not enough air.

If the lambda is worn the ecu fails to aim for stoichiometric and might inject more fuel then needed.

Also a bad ignition which usually is a worn rotor and cap (there big loss of spark energy occurs) and really really worn sparks.

If your exhaust leaks somewhere near the lambda that also will let the ecu inject more fuel.

Bad fuel economy means that more fuel is injected then necessary for reasons where I believe I told you the ones that are the most heavy on mpg or your engine gets good fuel but the ignition fails to ignite it.
Click to expand...
That's a hell of a good write up!?
 
Thank you bls. It is just so things I didn't know while testing and fiddling with my other Nissan fell in place with my Micra. I have learned with my other Nissan in the hard way (keep on driving with issues that do not influence reliabillity like a worn MAF, rinse and repeat with second hand parts of unknown state, getting of the couch and fire up Datascan again), what helps fuel economy. This is because I learned quickly better fuel economy on an old car means more low end response and quicker 0 - 60 times which you can record with Datascan in a hundred percent correct reading.

It is not hard to chew away a full second on Nissans figures for a 0 to 60.

Also, low end power means you don't have to go to high rpms to keep up with a normal traffic pace and that gives better fuel economy. For a MAF one is worried about, some exhaust sniffing which is the not recommended way can help. I did work on moped all my life though and that knowledge is quite valuable on exhaust fumes. I'm sure though that a regular inspection on the spark plugs works just as good after each modification, repair or replacement of a crucial part like a MAF.

I admit I still didn't buy a new MAF. For my other Nissan, if I can be sure it will solve my driveabillity issues in full or just half of it I would buy a several hundreds Hitachi. For my engine and my country I can buy a *new* MAF for fifteen :/ But in the end it all depends on what wire is soldered there and yes, MAF oem's can be a total fail. If they decided to use a lower grade or just the wrong wire, your driveabillity might change completely. If you are not that keen on fuel economy like I do, a second hand original MAF with low mileage is a good way to turn your driveabillity of your car back to fun again.

I will order a Ali Express MAF and a cheap MAF in the fifteen range and compare with the MAF I have I know is both with lambda responsible for the heavy fumes my Micra is throwing out. Heavy fumes at cold start are not a technical problem, but fuel economy might suffer a bit. Fuming with a fully warmed engine (if your radiator fan starts and stops is the measuring point), will give bad fuel economy.

But as I wrote before, thermostat, lambda, MAF and rotor and cap, if you want a happy Micra, start looking there. You can measure a MAF without Datascan though. A lambda replacement can be a pain and a thermostat replacement, if you are a handy person, people that have done it can talk you trough. But a lambda or MAF replacement on a good working car can make sense. Replacing a thermostat without being sure how good or bad your current thermostat makes no sense, but I told you how to make sure.
 
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nissan boy said:
I get 40/45mpg 400 miles from a tank full , 8ltrs (£10 ) gets from 66 to 80 miles roughly , ATM my fuel gauge is been a bit weird cause the old battery shat it's self and new one it's been stuck on the same place in the lower red for a while but only done 45miles , cold doesn't help then really

Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
Click to expand...

I reckon similar in our old 95' 1.0ltr. Engine is nicely maintained and would say up to 45 ... def 45 on longer runs.
 

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