Me again

CMF_Glenj

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Double post lol?
 

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CMF_Glenj

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sorry to be a pain in the arse;) how would i set it back to norm or advance as your saying
Am i not far away here or am i million miles away?

What advantage do you gain by filing dowels-
 

CMF_frank2

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your setting looks correct mate, but the slack/worn chains are making the cams run retarded (and a headskim makes it worse).
filing the dowels advances them back to the original factory settings
 

CMF_Glenj

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is this why the slack is on top or is this always the case with these

with the filing of the dowels i am just wary of the rulings, looking at doing bigger events this year and they are scrutineered before hand with a fine tooth comb

theres no tensioner on at the mo will that not sort the slack even mo
 

CMF_frank2

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the tensioner will tighten the chain when its running mate, you have to twist/ratchet the tensioner plunger back, then fit the 2 bolts, then push it fully back to release the ratchet (else it will rattle every time you startup)
 

CMF_frank2

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the sprockets dont tend to wear glen, as you can see i have a few serviceable spare ones :)
2 new chains would help (£100 iirc), but you can advance the cams by setting the idler in a different position.
for instance, if you set the "CG" stamped in the idler @ 6 o,clock instead of 12 o,clock, the cams will move half a tooth (because the idler sprockets are 23t and 36t)
 

CMF_Glenj

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wow how many? :) maybe i will look into a new upper chain, really dont wanna be messing else where my brain wont take it

you reckon advancing is the way to go? will i see a improvement performance wise also

This is a distant hope but this will be on the rolling road once done
 

CMF_frank2

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Glenj WROTE:

"ye thats the 1.....cheers bud thanks for your time so far
Click to expand...

no probs mate :)
you only have to give the crank 1 turn then reposition the cams tho, that will advance the cams half a tooth (15 deg) and should restore the 16/0/0/16 factory settings.
and dont forget to retard the dizzy to suit
 

CMF_Glenj

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Update

Managed to get back together today, chain on properly, tensioner on properly (couple of attempts)

After turning by hand numerous times- the first time i turned 360 the marks were way off, after several more turning the marks seemed to sort them selves out (this normal)

The way it is set now is a 5 below (the first notch), not moved of this now after more checking- this what you are saying by retarded?

Checked the clearance of the 1s open at this setting (didnt manage do them all) approx 0.25

Any thoughts?
 

CMF_Glenj

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Sorry i meant the marks on the crank in relation with cams, first time round they were no where near, then seemed to alignisssh themselves after another turn..

any thoughts on why is goes to below tdc when cam sprockets are in correct position now - this retarded? will it run like spanners until high revs tho?
 

CMF_frank2

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the cam lobes and crank pulley will line up every 720 deg mate (2 turns)
if the pulley is on the 1st notch (5 deg after tdc), then the cams need dialing in to get the power restored to stock
 

CMF_frank2

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it should have a powerband higher than stock glen (you would have to rev its nuts off) but i think you lose hp when they,re retarded too.
the cam sprockets have 23 teeth and they run half crank speed, so i calculate that to 31 deg/tooth, so the 6 o,clock/12 o,clock thingy will advance them half a tooth (15.5 deg) which may be too much ?
you need to take some readings on the opening/closing events tbh, then decide
 

CMF_Glenj

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tbh thats what we do, into second gear and foot down for 2 mins screaming its tits off

What the best way to do these readings, for opening do the lobes need to be pointing at 12oclock to check the clearance! What do i look for on the closing part?
 

CMF_frank2

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you need to spin the bucket while slowly turning the crank glen (near tdc) and when the lobe makes contact with the exh bucket is the opening time, and when the inlet lobe loses contact with the inlet bucket is the inlet closing time (the bucket will spin easily if there,s no contact, and wont spin if the lobe is pushing against it eh).
i set my 1.3 cams with about 30 deg of overlap (all 4 valves slightly open), 15 deg either side of tdc, your 1.0 cams will probably have about half as much.
you could set the idler at 3 o,clock or 9 o,clock if need be eh
 

CMF_frank2

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np :) you need to test the different settings on a dyno ideally eh glen, you could probably gain 5 to 10 hp, which is a lot when you only have 50ish to start with eh :)
the 4 stroke karters twist the gear on the crank to optimise the valve timing and gain seconds/lap. and thats with a single camshaft with their limitations
 

CMF_Glenj

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Ok today...

Set to TDC & Checked

No 1 in 0.25-0.30
No 1 Ex 0.30
No 2 Ex 0.30

Says in manual to 1 full rotation- this seems to set it back to normal an above... i did it 180 notches were at 6oClock

No 2 Ex 0.30
No 3 In 0.25-0.30
No 4 In 0.25-0.30
No 4 Ex 0.35

Any thought on these,
also in your post above you mention looking at what degrees the pulley is at when opening/closing accurs- Bit lost on this not to sure what you mean...
 

CMF_frank2

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you have to check the valve clearances while the lobe is pointing upwards glen. (ie, turn the engine each time)
and i use the notches on the pulley to gauge the opening and closing events (5, 10, 15 and 20 deg before tdc, and 5 after then just measure the 10, 15 and 20 )
 

CMF_Glenj

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Im lost here Frank, I need valve clearance for dummies book!

The figures above have i done it wrong there?

totally lost with how you are matching up with notches on pulley... am i just looking at which cylinders are neally open/closed around TDC (cant see how you do it for them all)

M8 if i am a idiot just let me know hahahah
 

CMF_frank2

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heh, the valve clearances are a separate issue to the timing glen, as long as the clearances are in spec then you can check when the valves are about to open and close.
the timing you need to check for is the exact moment that the valve clearance drops to zero (where the lobe makes contact onto the bucket)
 

CMF_frank2

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the clearance drops to zero soon after the lobe gets to 3 o,clock and 9 o,clock mate, there is a ramp at the sides of the lobe that gradually makes contact, and the only way you can tell is by checking if the bucket spins freely or not
 

CMF_Glenj

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Yeah understand that bud, what didnt see and dont understand is how do you match it up with the crank pulley to see the degrees this happens, especially if have to do this for each lobe. The only ones i could see where the ones i mentioned above.

^^^^^^am i completely missing the point here
 

CMF_Glenj

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^ wait a minute :)

Right when setting toTDC the buckets spin freely, after 1 turn the EX buckets stops to spin when notches are around 6oClock position, inlet lobe pointing around 1oClock, continuing to turn and the EX. releases around 10degrees after TDC notch, Inlet still spins but not freely

 

CMF_frank2

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we just need the exh closing and inlet opening events really glen, and if the buckets are free to spin @ tdc then there is no overlap (which is what nissan intended on their 18/0/0/18 valve timing settings)
ideally you want the clearances to be zero on all 4 valves @ tdc, so how many notches on the crank pulley when the clearance drops to zero mate ?
 

CMF_Glenj

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ok cheers didnt think i was right

When saying make contact, is it as soon as the side of the ramp touches or when flush on the bucket (just seemed the buckets could still spin until lobe pointed at it) do i just feel a drag on the bucket?
 

CMF_frank2

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Glenj WROTE:

"ok cheers didnt think i was right

When saying make contact, is it as soon as the side of the ramp touches or when flush on the bucket (just seemed the buckets could still spin until lobe pointed at it) do i just feel a drag on the bucket?
Click to expand...

use a 3 thou feeler if its easier mate, catch the crank pulley reading when the feeler becomes free or becomes trapped
 
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