LH window: it opens a bit on its own

Fabrizio

Fabrizio

Hello everyone,
as for title... And when I try to close it, I hear a machine gun noise from the door panel. But the half-inch slit remains.
It's remarkable that every time I solve something, the cute car continues to find new winning moves in this chess game.
I'm pretty shure that somewhere here some of you is a good chessplayer.
 
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Hello jls, thanks for answering; I suppose it's something that can't be repaired, it sounds needing to change the whole mechanism.
 
If man built it man can fix it, but in this case it's probably going to be easier to just get a replacement mechanism from a breakers. Electric or manual window?
 
It's electric. But probably I'll choose for a brand new one: for many other fix I tried in some breackers but the condition of spares were often worst than mine.
Internet should offer such kind of spares for these cars. Or not?
 
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Thought as much, your choice but I'd go second hand. You just need to find a decent breakers. I'd be surprised if there were after market options but you could try the internet and the motor factors. It's been awhile but the last K11 winder mechanism I worked on the problem was the glass constantly coming out of the nylon grippers. Can't remember how I fixed it, might have been gaffer tape to pack it out.
 
My glass is also loose on the grippers and I tought to use a marine sealant to lock it; but the main problem is the "gun machine" that doesn't allow the glass to close completely. Once upon, a long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I rebuilt a couple of teeth of a rack with a welder and an iron file: it's feasible but I'm searching detailed picture of the K11's mechanism to evaluate the repair and, above all, how long it could take (the car is always running).
 
:LOL: Done similar things myself in the past when pushed. Like your style. Why not get hold of a second hand unit and repair that if necessary?
 
This is an example of the common condition/level of wear of used mechnism on national ebay:

s-l1600Mk2.jpg


Its' clear the wear level of the last (or first?) five theet of the rack.
That's my attack strategy: a day off from the job, dismantle the mechanism, welding session, Tibetan and patient iron file processing, test.
But now, youtube: how to dismantle LH electric window regulator :rolleyes:
 
Improvise, adapt & overcome has its limited applications.

I fitted a new window regulator (toothed part) to my Merc 230TE some years ago for about £50, a quicker “jobs a goodun” first time & less hassle then welding/filing & a lot cheaper than a day off work?

Enjoy the hassle filing teeth profile :)
 
Never had a window winder regulator fail in my 25 years of running old banger Micras & worth asking Nissan the price if they have any in the country?

Otherwise it will be down the scrappers & or online where they will order & get it delivered from any where in the UK that has stock?

Good luck hunting. :cool:
 
Well, considering that in the mornings I stay lazy in bed until 5.30 and in the evening I go to sleep early, more or less around midnight, taking in count that during the day I have nothing to do (?), I said: "why don't you try to play with the window regulator????"
Genius.
So I did.
The plastic clips are ok:
20240221_095518.jpg


But here is the rack, as expected:
20240221_100819.jpg
20240221_104904.jpg

Many teeth are worn.
But where is the problem???
I'll re-build it!!!! "After all, when you were young, you also worked as a goldsmith..."

Here the rack after the deposit of new metal using a welder:
20240221_111406.jpg




And here the "denture", shaped in the proper curve; note that the teeth are a bit higher respect to the original teeth, just to be shure of the final proper dimension. "After all, when you were young, you also worked as a goldsmith...":

20240221_121349.jpg


And here, the finished teeth:

20240221_130657.jpg

Another point of view:

20240221_131059.jpg


Looks good. "After all, when you were young, you also worked as a goldsmith..."

I tried the mechanism.


And?


Works?






Absolutely not.
Exactly as before. But precisely the same.
Surprise and disappointment.
In a "dry-run test" I could notice the gap between the teeth and the pinion: 3,5 millimiters. Too many for a new "denture", rebuilt more or less as the original.
So what?

It seems the guilty is somewhere else. But I haven't enough time, and so.... How to recover the missing 3,5 millimiters?

Put aside the goldsmith and become a blacksmith:

20240221_161205.jpg


Yes, I know, it's absolutely ugly. And absolutely rude.
But now it works.
The Jack the Ripper method is absurd because the size of the rack has been heavily modified. Yet now it works
May be the 3,5 millimiters came from the pivot, in the closed window position only?

20240221_161226.jpg


Who knows... Really don't know...
But someone had to spend half a day for the cause.

?
 
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